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Stude Light

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Everything posted by Stude Light

  1. Owners' Manual. They can be found on eBay frequently. The reprint of the maintenance manual is produced by Faxon (also often listed on eBay). Scott
  2. Actually, black pipe is recommended for air lines. Galvanizing is a sacrificial coating to slow the corrosion process but can flake off as it corrodes and ages getting into your tools. While black pipe will rust over time, the particles are usually very fine. L copper is nice but rather expensive.
  3. What is nice about these old axles is everything is adjustable. The first thing I set was the pinion bearing preload - I used new bearings so I set that to around 20 in-lbs torque to turn with oil on the bearings. With used bearings, 10 in-lbs would be good. After setting the pinion depth and approximate ring gear location for a good pattern, I set the back lash while setting carrier preload - similar to the video below. Unlike the video, I installed my bearing caps while doing this. These are large tapered roller bearings and can take quite a bit of preload - kind of do it by feel but definitely want preload and not just take the play out. I set up for a total rolling torque measured at the pinion of about 50 in-lbs. When assembling, I used Permatex Teflon Thread Sealant on the two pinion adjustment threads and not one drop after 6 years. Good luck. Scott
  4. Property taxes and overall cost of living is pretty reasonable. My vintage car rates aren't too bad (~$250 a car per year thru Hagerty) but for your daily driver the rates are just just stupid high. My 25 year old - no tickets, no accidents and just PLPD over $1200 per year. It's no wonder there are so many uninsured drivers on the road in this state, especially young ones.
  5. We would welcome having you in Michigan....my only complaint with living here is the high auto insurance rates that result from our poorly crafted "No-Fault" insurance laws. Number one in the nation for costs. https://www.insure.com/car-insurance/car-insurance-rates.html As for winter....it makes for changing seasons and you appreciate a car with heat (not this one).
  6. It's rare to get that perfect football. Attached is the best pattern I got for my 1923 Studebaker and it's very quiet. Focus on the drive side pattern as that is where you spend most of your time driving. Get the best pattern you can while maintaining proper lash. Pinion lash is very important for gear noise, clunk and wear. If you have enough lash with the pattern you captured, I see no issues - that is a nice wide contact patch and you are not clipping the edges. Scott
  7. I'm looking for a better plan on sealing the block side cover. When I rebuilt the engine I thought some Permatex Ultra Black or Right Stuff (can't recall which) would be a good solution on the side cover to keep it from leaking. Yes, it worked great - not a drop in 5 years! I decided to adjust my lifter lash this weekend so had to remove that cover....OMG what a pain! After prying with 25 screwdrivers around the perimeter didn't work, I had to break off a box cutter blade and hold it with needle nose pliers and painstakingly cut the gasket joint all the way around. Now that I got it all cleaned up and picked any gasket chips out of the engine with a mirror and mechanics grabber tool 😠, it's time to reinstall. Uses a regular cork gasket (from Olson's of course) which I decided to bond to the side cover with "old school" Permatex Indian Head shellac. I'm looking for a leak free but removable option on the block side - I'm thinking a little grease to help fill any imperfections but wanted to draw on all the other experience in the forum to see if there is a better option. I appreciate any suggestions. Scott
  8. A dual clutch trans has no clutch pedal. Basically two concentric clutch packs with one linked to 1,3,5,7 and the other on 2,4,6,8. So it can do clutch to clutch shifts with no torque interupt, either manually (using paddles on the backside of the steering wheel) or just let it shift automatically. Shifts are accomplished in 100 milliseconds. The 8 speeds allow you to keep the engine in the range of peak efficiency or peak power for a longer period of time. It's a crazy fast and fun car to drive. 0-60 in 2.8 seconds and 1/4 mile in 11.2. A bit slower than a Tesla Model S but it sounds a hell of a lot better and corners like a slot car. The three really cool cars are mine, the Vette was on loan for a week or so but made for a fun photo. Scott
  9. The evolution of the car OR the regression of the roofline. Right to left: 40 hp 3 speed sliding gear, 125 hp 3 speed synchronized (mostly), 250 hp 2 speed automatic, 495 hp 8 speed dual clutch. The ‘68 Tempest was bought new by my Grandfather.
  10. Hope the forum is okay with adverising a car raffle here, but certainly don't want to start a trend with a bunch of raffles, so I'll let the moderators decide if it stays. Raffle supports the museum and still needs entrants to make minimum count (otherwise you get 35% of total sales). COVID has really reduced the number of visitors this year. Drawing is November 9th. This is one beautiful 1965 Olds Cutlass Convertible - I've seen it up close! https://www.reoldsmuseum.org/events/car-raffle/ I think you need to call and provide your info to enter. Scott
  11. I found these three interior knobs in my parts bin. Not sure what mdel Studebaker they go on but the handles are similar. Take a look and let me know. Scott
  12. Allen, Might I suggest just starting a new post for your 1914 Mclaughlin rather than resurrecting someone else's 6 year old one. A big benefit is you get notified with replies rather than having to go check yourself. Scott
  13. Universal will vulcanize different stems on to tubes. You can give them a call with your specific request. My disc wheels took the 90 degree bent nickel stems. https://www.universaltire.com/wheel-hardware.html?p=2
  14. Champion 1-Com might be a good choice. You can find NOS ones on eBay occasionally. They came with both style wire clips. The early ones are take apart, the later ones are single piece. I use them in my ‘23 Studebaker https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Vintage-CHAMPION-1-COM-Spark-Plug-7-8-Thrd-IHC-Hit-Miss-Engine-Tractor/154145644005?hash=item23e3cbdde5:g:nRMAAOSwPD1fibjt Scott
  15. I probably don’t need to mention this but just in case....By solvent, Phil is referring to mineral spirits or naptha. Don’t use something that may damage your wheel paint like lacquer thinner or enamel reducer. Scott
  16. Adding to what Gary stated.....You do not find lock washers in the aviation industry. They use a lot of polymer-insert nuts (Nyloc), pal nuts (thin stamped nuts used as a “double nut”) and safety wire. In our old car hobby, and in keeping with original looks, I also use Loctite with a lock washer in areas of concern. Although not necessarily recommended for fasteners, I use Loctite Retaining Compound in some applications as it acts more like a Nyloc nut - lots of drag rather than just high breakaway torque.
  17. I'm surprised no one has mentioned synthetics. Although I currently don't run a syntetic oil, I'm convinced they are a better lubricant based on the results of some friends that use it. I was considering switching my '39 LaSalle (V8 flathead "Cadillac" engine) over to a brand name full synthetic (maybe 5W-20) after I finish breaking in the engine. I have about 1200 miles on it using 10w30 VR1 so, maybe another 1000 miles. I run just a bit high on oil pressure too ~50 psi driving at 60 mph.
  18. I used a Car Capsule in the past when I stored my car in my "farm" barn over the winter. Barn was built in the late 30's, concrete floor and originally used for hay and livestock so had a few roof leaks, big sliding doors with lots of gaps, plenty of ways for mice and critters to get in, etc. but was pretty good protection from the sun, wind, rain and snow. The capsule worked great to eliminate any rodent issues. I set mouse traps in the capsule and in the car, just in case, and never caught one. A trap set in the barn would catch something within an hour. It also kept the car dust free. Although the little fan keeps air circulating, it's not an environmentally controlled device so your car is subject to the changing outdoor temperatures. The one issue I didn't like, which typically happened towards the end of winter....super cold out, then the next day it warms up and gets a bit humid. Look inside the Car Capsule and the car is soaked in condensation (no different if it was just sitting outside of the capsule). As the car and all the metals reaches equilibrium to the outside temp, the condensation goes away and the fan keeps air circulating. I say this as the Car Capsule will not prevent this problem although the condensation may be a bit shorter lived in the capsule due to the moving air. I'm fortunate now to have an environmentally controlled pole barn (heat in winter, dehumidification in summer). Cars, machinery, tools all stay totally rust free due to controlling the humidity. Before heated outbuildings or garage, I used to use Boeshield T9 on my tools, drill press, lathe, etc. to keep them all rust free during the temperature swings and resulting condensation. I still use it on some of the parts of my cars for the same (sparkplugs, "oiled" bolts, etc.). It's really good stuff and leaves a dry waxy film rather than oily. I used spray foam insulation in the walls of my pole building which I believe is a great way of eliminating mice. I set three traps in there and re-peanut butter them every 6 months or so - have not caught a mouse in the 4 years since insulating. I catch plenty in my home's insulated attached garage and home's attic space.
  19. My father-in-law has a 1955 F250 and is trying to locate the VIN. I believe there is supposed to be a tag on the inside of the glove compartment door. Are there any other locations? A picture showing that location would be best. Thanks for any help. Scott
  20. Nice repair job!. And another fine example of Cause and Effect. If the car wanders a lot, it may just be a cracked exhaust manifold. 🤪 Scott
  21. When I restored my 1923 Studebaker, I took a photo and used PowerPoint to add various pin stripes to the wheels and see how I liked it. Different colors and at different radii. In the end I opted for no stripes on that car. if you decide to stripe then you could get a pinstripe brush and do it yourself or find a good pinstriper and have them do it (usually not too expensive) or buy some pinstripe tape and use that. I had to repaint a wheel on my LaSalle and someone had previously used pinstripe tape on them so I bought some tape and striped the one wheel. I just measured from the edge where the stripe would be and made little “tick” marks about every inch as a guide. Pretty easy and it came out great. Scott
  22. The ring gear is pressed on to the flywheel. I would suggest heating it to press it off/on. You can usually just press it on the other way and get some better teeth unless it is really bad. The service manual should cover this. is the starter not engaging? It would have to be unusable before I would want to risk accidentally breaking it. Scott
  23. If you are looking for bumpers, Robert Kapteyn may still have these - in Illinois. I dropped them off at his place a few years ago. "rbk" on the forum - active in the Studebaker group. Scott
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