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Stude Light

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Everything posted by Stude Light

  1. The marks shown in the photo are correct and both my flywheels have them pictured. I recall the older flywheels had a different mark, I can look next week.
  2. Reliable Carriers - very experienced and....well....reliable.
  3. Two other shipping options for large or heavy parts: Greyhound - you have to drop off and pick up at a bus station. I have shipped tires and fuel tanks this way for very low cost Fastenal - you have to drop off and pick up at one of their locations. I have shipped engines this way. You have to box or palletize your shipment.
  4. This is not necessarily a simple answer. The 1920 – 1922 Studebaker Light Six used a standard Morse Timing Chain (p/n 43567) with a 14-tooth accessory shaft sprocket (p/n 43309), a water pump shaft gear (p/n 43365) and a distributor gear (p/n 43873). For 1923 and 1924 the Light Six switched to a Morse Type 45 Timing Chain (p/n 120007) with a 15-tooth accessory shaft sprocket (p/n 120012), a water pump shaft gear (p/n 120010) and a distributor gear (p/n 120013). The water pump shaft gear is what I would call the distributor support housing drive gear and the distributor gear is what I would call the distributor support housing driven gear. When Studebaker made this change, the pitch of the timing chain changed along with all the sprocket profiles. This forced them to go with a 15-tooth sprocket on the accessory drive which changed that shaft speed slightly. To compensate, they changed the water pump shaft gear (the one that drives the distributor support) and the profile of the distributor gear (which is the distributor support driven gear). The correct timing chain sprockets are easy to identify as they will have TYPE 45 stamped on them. Also, the accessory drive sprocket is easy to identify just by counting the teeth. The water pump gear is also easy to identify as the earlier part (p/n 43365) has four lobes as viewed from the side, whereas the later part (p/n 120010) has a five-lobe side profile. The later Type 45 parts are on the left in the photo. The issue is identifying the correct distributor gear. The p/n 43873 distributor gear was used on the Wagner and Remy 606A distributors. The p/n 120013 distributor gear was used on the Remy 626A and Wagner K97 in years 1923 and 1924 and on the 1925 ER Models. The difference in these two gears is just in profile which is not something you can see. So, you need to be careful to find the correct distributor gear that matches the profile of the driven gear otherwise the two gears will wear out quickly. Even if your car was made before 1923, it may have been changed over at some point. What may help is that in 1920, 1921 and part of 1922, the oil filler was at the fan support bracket. At some point in 1922, the oil filler was moved next to the distributor which required changes in the “water pump/oil pump/distributor support bracket” and the “distributor support housing”. For reference, the 1920-early 1922 water pump/oil pump/distributor support bracket was p/n 43572 and the distributor support housing was p/n 45344. There is no provision for an oil filler on these parts so if you find a distributor gear of one of these housings it is likely to be the older version (p/n 43873), that is, unless someone updated it at some point. Late 1922 – 1924 would use a water pump/oil pump/distributor support bracket p/n 45183 with a distributor support housing having p/n 45545. There is a provision for an oil filler on these parts and would most likely have the p/n 120013 gear. It’s a lot of information, but as I said, it is not a simple answer. BTW - Studebaker did not offer a 4 cylinder engine beyond 1919 and they were very different engines from the more modern Light Six. I checked the parts manuals and the Light Six did not share a distributor gear with any of the 4 cylinder models, so I'm not sure about the info from Valley Forge. Scott
  5. 1923 was the first year of an all steel body by Studebaker (stamped by the Budd Company) and that was in the Light Six Touring car. That’s what the doors are from. They hinge from the front. BTW - the door latch mechanism was made by Briggs and Stratton. Scott
  6. I’ve restored and readjusted the Remy ones that Studebaker used. They have a cover that is removed with a single screw. Once inside you can easily adjust the cut in and cut out voltages. If I recall, the internals of the Wagner did not have adjustment screws so you have to bend the arms to get the voltages set. I’m guessing the generator in a 1926 is good for maybe 10-12 amps so you don’t need a huge diode. You could reach out to Jason Smith from Advanced Electrical Rebuilders for some advice or just have him do the conversion. http://www.aerrebuild.com/index.php/about-us.html
  7. For the the higher efficiency motors it requires rare earth elements like neodymium which requires an intensive refinement process. The power electronics requires tin, tantalum, tungsten and gold- all require mining and processing. While we make motors and power electronics today, we have to ramp up production of these which will require significant increased needs of all these elements. There is no free beer with switching to “environmentally friendly” EVs.
  8. If we change “pollution” to “environmental impact”, the EV benefit is further reduced by the negative impacts created by the manufacturing of the batteries, electronics and motors which require a lot of environmental resources which are in limited supply. My point is EVs are no panacea. Just like bio ethanol fuels, there are a lot of trade offs when you look at the entire picture. EVs will have their place as will some fully autonomous vehicles and ICE vehicles.
  9. I have this one but like every other one I’ve had, it is inoperative. Unlike the Remy cutouts, the Wagners were not meant to be serviced. You can cut the welds on the housing and use a diode inside then reassemble to keep the original look.
  10. You should be able to pick p/ns you need from this I find these assembly type pictures the most helpful but not too many for the Series 16
  11. I couldn't agree more. I just installed a new set of tires on my 1968 Pontiac Tempest. I had to order the tires since no one seems to carry 205/70R14s with a 3/4" whitewall. I took it to the "best" place around me. They're basically modern tires- how hard could it be? I specifically mentioned the valve stem length and make sure they are correct so they stick through the wheel cover - no, they screwed that up. I specifically discussed protecting my 3/4" whitewalls - tore one of those. No pride in work - just get it out the door. When I restored my 1923 Studebaker, I did all the work on the disc wheels, tires, tubes, flaps, 90 degree valve stems, split rims because I had all the tools - basically a small pry bar. It took a while but if you don't rush, it is pretty simple, although you do need to go through great pains to protect the wheels from getting scratched and black paint will show every flaw. I just took a few precautions when first filling them up. I've had no issues with those at all.
  12. It's the air pressure inside the tire that holds the bead in place during cornering - doesn't really matter if there is a tube in there or not. If your tire is at the proper pressure the bead will stay in place, regardless of having an older rim. I run Diamondback radials on my 1939 LaSalle with no tubes and it corners quite fine. Now, if you want to argue that underinflated tires will start to unbead at high corner loading and all it takes is a little bit of unbeading to immediately deflate your tire without a tube, then I can buy in to your argument. I make it a point to check my inflation pressures often and, with radials, it's pretty easy to see the bulge at the tire patch when the pressure is low. This is especially true with Diamondbacks which run at 45 psi so they look like a bias ply (no bulge) when at proper pressure. One other observation....my rims are riveted and I didn't seal over the rivet heads inside the rims and none of the 5 tires have leaks. If I did it again, I probably would seal them - I just hadn't thought about it at the time.
  13. The little car that gave REO the bump start it needed in 1906 will be at the HCCA kick off for their museum on the campus of the Gilmore Car Museum compliments of the Lansing based R E Olds Transportation Museum in July. https://hcca.org/calendar-celebration-of-brass/
  14. What!? No "Godfather" fans? Sure, not a car film but has some great car scenes in it. Maybe it's overlooked since it is the best film ever made and you can only get so many accolades.
  15. Top failure - condenser. I know you tried three so probably not that. Next failure is a bad coil. Next failure is bad points. Just because you put in new doesn't mean they are right. I suggest getting a NOS set, as I previously suggested, or at least check the spring pressure. Maybe you already did this.
  16. I suggest looking around on eBay. This 284-Y looks to have a little different base that is clocked about 90 degrees off of the 284-S. The 284 series coils are built the same internally but the suffix number generally refers to variations in the high tension lead connection, base mounting and clocking of the coil. If your high tension lead can be mounted 90 degrees off nominal one way or the other, then this coil may work for your car. Of course, it may not function at all - that's the gamble buying old parts. I've had a number of these over the years and they all worked - some had a bit stronger spark than others. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1920s-ignition-coil-284-Y-DELCO-Remy-factory-engine-electrical-RARE/383834616556?epid=12042830337&hash=item595e5372ec:g:1pYAAOSw0lxfw~h4 Good luck, Scott
  17. I have this one. Send me a PM with some contact info and I can send it to you. Scott
  18. I really doubt the timing all of a sudden changed, so I wouldn't mess with that just yet. I had a similar issue on my 1939 V8 LaSalle and racked my brain as it sure seemed to be fuel related. It behaved similarly....would idle fine and run fine at higher rpms but as soon as you took it for a drive and put some load on the engine it would start dying out it as you tried driving faster. It turned out the spring pressure on my point set (which was new) was very low compared to the old set. I looked up the specifications and did my best to measure the spring load and it showed low. I put a NOS point set in and problem solved. Scott
  19. You should come to the "Cars and Coffee" type event on May 1st or June 5th (8-10am and 1/2 off)
  20. https://www.reoldsmuseum.org/ The RE Olds Transportation Museum is located in downtown Lansing, MI and is dedicated to Ransom Eli Olds and Lansing’s contributions to the automotive industry. It walks you through the early stationary engines of the late 1800s, Olds’ early development of steam (1883), gasoline (1896) and electric (1899) vehicles and the formation of Olds Motor Works which employed the first use of a progressive assembly line for automobile production. It then covers Mr. Old’s second car company, the REO Motor Car Company and when Lansing, for a short time, became the Car Capital of the world having two of the largest automobile manufacturers. The museum owns about 90 vehicles and has over 60 on exhibit at any one time which includes vehicles from all eras. The focus is on Lansing built engines, equipment and vehicles which includes Oldsmobile, Viking, REO, Diamond REO, Durant, Star and a few miscellaneous GM built products including an EV1. They also host a REO powered equipment display (mowers, snowblowers, boat motor). The museum has a large Oldsmobile archives and is recognized as having the largest collection of REO information. The location is recognized as a Michigan Historic Site as the vintage boardroom is part of the original Bates and Edmonds engine factory dating from 1904. They host the Car Capital Auto Show in downtown Lansing in July each year. The museum and the boardroom are both available to rent.
  21. Personally I would just use a decent brand straight weight like SAE 30 and save your money. ZDDP wasn’t even around when your car was built. It wasn’t until high compression engines with high valve spring pressures were designed in the 1940s to support the war that the additives were needed. Post war automobile engines began to be introduced that used the learnings from the war to create more power and those engines required a balanced zinc and phosphorus content to reduce wear issues. Running a high ZDDP content oil won’t hurt your engine but it certainly isn’t needed. What will hurt is adding too much ZDDP, like using VR1 and using a ZDDP additive. If you want to step it up a bit and buy synthetic oils those are about the best you can get. My problem is, without an oil filter, the carbon content from combustion doesn't get filtered out and the oil gets pretty dirty in 500 or 1000 miles so I like to change my oil fairly often. I stick with mineral based oils in my 1923 Studebaker for that reason.
  22. I have a spare I’ll give up. Just PM me an email and we’ll get it figured out. BTW “edinmass” on this forum can test a coil for you if you find one on eBay. He graciously offered that up to forum members.
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