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Stude Light

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Everything posted by Stude Light

  1. Interesting info. A little more history... http://chinacarhistory.com/2020/03/30/the-shanghai-horse-bazaar-and-motor-company-limited/
  2. Hi Linus, I suggest you start posting in the Studebaker forum for your needs....there are parts out there. Also join the Antique Studebaker Club and put a wanted ad in the Antique Studebaker Review. You would be surprised how many older owners and collectors can't/don't particpate in the online forums but still respond to the hard print ads. Ask lots of questions. It's a fantastic looking car. Good luck. Scott
  3. You could also put a request into the RE Olds Transportation Museum - In the Contact area....."Ask Ransom" https://www.reoldsmuseum.org/
  4. Based on previous inquiries, I don't think the museum has much in the way of prints from the 1920s era. Guess you could ask though.
  5. It only failed in some spots. The hottest area (closest to the output of all the cylinders) looks great. I think bad processing and they offered to redo it but I'm just going with highest gloss ceramic I can get. A number of flatty caddy folks tell me the porcelain just doesn't hold up, a few have good success. I've also read that new cast iron vs aged cast iron can make a big difference. Not sure David Buick (who made his money in plumbing and patented the porcelain over cast iron process for bathtubs) had thought that 45 years later, a car company would be using his process for exhaust manifolds.....
  6. Excellent! Thanks all for your help. Scott
  7. Yes, I could remove the line that goes from the intake manifold to the aux vacuum pump (part of fuel pump assembly) and use that. I was referring to an extra port that would make a simple attachment. Since I have to take off the exhaust manifold this winter and get it ceramic coated (correct porcelain coating from Independence Porcelain failed) I need to remove the intake also as I doubt I could reuse the shared gasket. That intake has a plug I’ll remove and create the spare port. Issue was you could feel a slight surging fore/aft during normal accelerations - like it was starving a bit for fuel but nothing you would be able to see/hear in a video, just a feel thing. I made two changes and the problem is solved. First, timing wasn’t as advanced as I thought so I bumped it up another 5 degrees to make about 10 BTDC at idle and I lifted the metering rods up about 1/64”. I’ll drive it for a couple hundred miles like that and see results. If I get time, I’ll go through the hassle of pulling vacuum wiper pipe off intake, check vacuum and really dial in idle jets to vacuum rather than rpm, but I plan to go to Gilmore Tour and Show this weekend. Thanks again for input. Scott
  8. Looked at timing and it moves as expected with rpm. Without having a vacuum advance, it just follows rpm up the a maximum then holds there. Unfortunately, I don't have an available vacuum port at this time. I tested using starting fluid at idle and no rpm changes so probably not leaking. Idle mixtures screws are between 1.5 and 2 turns. I just set them based on rpm a while back. They probably don't come into play at moderate throttle position, which is where I have the issue. Thanks for the input thus far.
  9. Originally it had a felt seal that was compressed axially by tightening up the bearing washer retainer which would force it out radially a bit and squeeze the shaft. Kept the dirt out but would weep a bit. Scott
  10. Thanks for the comments. I got a bit more to the story. After returning from the European Theater as a B24 Navigator in 1945, Louis Bur (pictured) was sent stateside and started training in B29’s in Santa Anna California when the A-bombs were dropped on Japan and the war ended. He bought an old car in California and drove it back to Michigan. He was from the Flint area and so may have gravitated toward a GM car. I'm looking at that sharp hood line break, cowl lamp, visor, curvature of top rear... I know its hard without more of the car in the photo to find clues. In a period of generic styling....kind of like today. Taken from: https://medium.com/swlh/the-zombie-mobile-b03932ac971d
  11. Reaserching for a friend. Photo of his father returning from European Theater as a B24 Navigator in 1945. Obviously an earlier car.
  12. No vacuum advance on the 1939 cars. The mechanical advance is working and distributor support has new bushing and shaft. I'm running the lowest octane I can find which is 87 ((R+M)/2). I have it timed per the book plus a few degrees further advanced. I very much doubt a sticking valve (new rebuild) and I can easily make this go away by crowding the throttle a bit more and it goes away but comes back as I go moderate accel It never occurs at high throttle, cruise or idle. Other than feeling a small amount of surging during moderate acceleration it runs perfect. It feels worse when the engine is cold vs hot. It's not just the initial accel but during a steady throttle acceleration (as you are trying to get to speed). Update: I just pulled the plugs (after 1000 miles since rebuild). #1 and #8 looks like the rest - lighting bad on those. Maybe a bit too clean?
  13. Need some advice. 1939 LaSalle with fresh engine rebuild. Generally runs great and quiet, can't hardly tell it's running at an idle. I also rebuilt the Carter WDO carb using the Carter step by step instructions along with the correct meter rod height gauges (thanks Jon for the correct tools). I have an issue.... During normal driving, the engine does not deliver smooth acceleration. There is a slight surging felt through the acceleration. If I accelerate fairly hard or go to wide open throttle the performance is fine. During cruise it's fine. It's just the light and moderate acceleration. Could this be an indication that it is running a bit too lean? I was thinking of lifting the metering rod height just a touch and see if it improves. Not sure what else it would be. Any thoughts? Thanks. Scott
  14. Yes, the 1937-39 Cadillac and LaSalle cars used a pressure radiator cap. They were 4#, 5# and 7# caps depending on year and model. My 1939 LaSalle uses a 7# cap. Scott
  15. For my 1939 LaSalle, 6 volt, positive ground. Currently using a 2330 bulb. There is plenty of discussion around LED bulbs but I just haven't found a post discussing success with prefocus lamps. Has anyone had success using LED bulbs in a prefocus headlight design. I'm looking at just switching to a halogen prefocused bulb but wondered about how well and LED would work. It seems that the exact position of the filament is critical and I'm doubting an LED could be used to have both low and hi beam usage. If you've had good experience, would you have a suggestion on a supplier? Also, my dash lamps are not very bright - how about an LED replacement bulb for those? I think it's a GE55 bulb currently. Thanks for any insight. Scott
  16. When I was deciding on whether to put whitewalls or blackwalls on my Studebaker, I took a photo of it with the black walls it had, then just did a little work in Powerpoint to add whitewalls and make a decision. I even posted the two photos in the forum for some feedback. It wasn't hard to decide to stay with blackwalls. Maybe try that. Scott
  17. Put Diamondback Auburn Radials on my 1939 LaSalle replacing a set of BF Goodrich Silvertowns this year. Rides so much better and got rid of wandering at higher speeds (usually cruise 55-65). I also got rid of the tubes but kept that bias-ply pie crust edge and beauty bar. To be fair I only have a bout 1000 miles of experience so far but am really happy with the purchase (thanks again Matt!). Scott
  18. That’s a really nice looking car. Will look forward to seeing next year. Scott
  19. See reply in your post in the Studebaker section
  20. Needs some nickel in this thread. Just a touch..... not too much.
  21. Just like instructions say....When you fold the top you pull the material from between the bows then roll it up and lay it between the front and rear bows then slip on the boot. Works great. Leaving it folded between bows will damage the material as to bows rub it. Scott
  22. If you don't get any replies, you could try in the General or Technical section of the forum as there is more activity there and many of the issues with this vintage car are common to various makes so you don't necessarily need to be a 1916 Studebaker expert to help mechanically. This is the right spot though for verbal help specific to your car. Scott
  23. More than likely you'll need to make the carburetor inlet tube. They are usually rusted away. Scott
  24. That serial number identifies it as a 1913 Model 25 SA 4 cylinder, 25 hp, 102" wheelbase car. Range for that model/year is: 301,501 - 315,611
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