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Stude Light

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Everything posted by Stude Light

  1. One suggestion to help diagnose issues. Install a vacuum gauge on the fill port plug and just let the car idle. You can watch the gauge for level of vacuum and how often it cycles. If vacuum is really low or it takes a really long time under vacuum to fill or it cycles too fast or it is completely inconsistent, then you know something is wrong and that information will at least help you think through the mechanics of what is going on and help you solve the issue.
  2. Correct. Very different designs. Special and Big Six share the same design though.
  3. Electric vibrator horns come in two types - the earlier "Klaxon" style in which an internal motor spins a small wavy plate that interfaces to a "finger" on a diaphragm. These are easy to take apart and rebuild. Then you have the style with an electromagnet that vibrates a diaphragm. Those are sometimes riveted together and may be harder to rebuild (never tried rebuilding one myself). You may want to specify type. Scott
  4. Waldron’s made the exhaust (in stainless) for my 1923 Light Six and my 1939 LaSalle. Both were perfect fits. I had an original exhaust pipe and muffler from the Light Six that I was able to compare the new parts to and they were exactly the same. What’s wrong with going with Waldrons? Scott
  5. The Gilmore Museum has rescheduled this to October 2-3, 2020. While it was nice they didn't cancel this altogether, August would have been a lot better plan vs October, especially due to the number of open cars that participate. I guess they had to work it into their schedule. https://www.gilmorecarmuseum.org/event-detail/congress-of-motorcars-new-date/?glm_event_from=2020-10-02
  6. I actually have two Book 3's - One covers 19-20 (First Printing) which is the one you see above. The other is the Second Printing like yours which covers 19-20-21-22. I alternate between the two, based on the year interested in, to avoid excess wear on these 100 year old books. Scott
  7. I’ll save George wear and tear on his book as there are not a lot of Illustrated Parts Manuals out there to be had. Info spans a few pages.
  8. If I was advertising a $90k USD car and wanted to attract "serious" buyers, I would take more than 3 pictures and would also have photos of the documentation verifying the claim of JFK ownership.
  9. Kent is looking for a Remy 284A coil with the resistor unit. The one shown is very similar but not the correct one for his Light Six. Should look like this one pictured. Correct Studebaker part number is 43851. I surmised that he left the key on and, especially with no resistor, it overheated and melted the wax out of the coil.
  10. Hi Linus, First of all, there are no dumb questions, just unasked ones so, ask away. The Special Six did not come with driveshaft disc couplings (those are Light Six parts), only the disc between the trans and engine, which aren't prone to fail except from extreme aging as they hardly flex. Marv Ribbich (mribbich@wi.rr.com on this forum or 1-262-292-2989) has those or you can just buy the material from Restoration Supply and make your own. If you have a driveshaft with flex joints, it would have to be a modification due to the overdrive unit. If so, Marv may be able to help out given some dimensions. There isn't much to the water pump - shaft, impeller, packing, packing nut, pump cover and gasket. Sometimes it just takes a new piece of packing but if the shaft is all scored up, you may need a new one made. A friend has a much older 1914 Studebaker and his impeller was trashed so he used one of the rubber ones out of an outboard motor and it works great - sometimes new solutions for old problems. This is the book you'll want but it's currently out of stock at Faxon - http://www.faxonautoliterature.com/1918-1924-Studebaker-Big-Six-Special-6-Repair-Shop-Manual-Reprint-P9551.aspx There are a number of classifieds in the back of the Antique Studebaker Review, which you'll get with your membership to the Antique Studebaker Club. Scott
  11. That video is a horrible thing to do to us while we are told to shelter at home! What a teaser.....I can't even come down to buy a ride currently. Well, I guess a virtual ride isn't so bad. At least it "got me out of the house" for 7 and half minutes. Thanks for sharing. That is a stunning car - looks great, sounds great, drives great.
  12. Seems like these two groups could have benefited by a bus.
  13. I got word that the Congress of Motorcars is cancelled for May 15-17. The organizers at the Gilmore Car Museum are working on a new scheduling of events for 2020 and will hopefully announce a new date for this event soon. There is a virtual car show this weekend though..... https://www.gilmorecarmuseum.org/event-detail/gilmore-car-museums-1st-virtual-car-show/?glm_event_from=2020-04-11
  14. I measured up a known working Remy coil: A-D: 1.2 ohms D-E: 2.9 kilo ohms Resistor unit: 0.5 ohms That will give you a starting point. Below is from the Dykes Manual on testing the Remy unit
  15. Re-posting in the live thread. For my brakes and clutches, I've used the Clutch Doctor 40167 Flink Ave, North Branch, MN 55056 (651) 674-4175 Super helpful, great work and prices are crazy reasonable. He may be able to help you out with lining material if you are set on doing the work yourself. I suggest giving him a call and checking on options. Scott
  16. For my brakes and clutches, I've used the Clutch Doctor 40167 Flink Ave, North Branch, MN 55056 (651) 674-4175 Super helpful, great work and prices are crazy reasonable. He may be able to help you out with lining material if you are set on doing the work yourself. I suggest giving him a call and checking on options. Scott Oops I see a more active copy of this post - I'll repost there and we can let this one die.
  17. Just to be clear: A - Timer not Dimer, that connects to the distributor (or timer) points and is part of the primary winding of the coil (ground side) B - Battery, correctly stated above, that terminal provides no electrical path internal to the coil and only serves as a support to connect the battery wire to the resistor C - That screw attaches the resistor to the input primary winding of the coil (battery side) D - High tension (secondary winding) provides the high voltage spark and connects to the center terminal on the distributor cap E - Mounting base (ground) F - Holds the coil together, does not provide a voltage path Resistance A-C is across primary winding Resistance D-E is across secondary winding You need to also check the coil resistor itself (remove screw C and test independently). I have found issues with the path from the resistor wire via the top through the screw due to corrosion. The resistance measurements will give you an idea if you have a short or open but, as mentioned, to really understand if the coil is working you need a coil tester or a car to test it with. Good luck Scott
  18. Ken, Replying to your PM question...this is the original oil can. Note the design of the threaded base on the spout and compare to yours - you can see it matches the tool kit photo from the parts manual. Just like other tools, I'm sure there were more than one oil can manufacturer, so you never know. It measures 3.5" across the base and is common to all the Studebaker models from the early 1920s. The brazed one you have is only 3.25" wide so, it is not correct. Scott
  19. Besides strength, durability and lighter weight, the big benefit of the disc wheels was the ease of repairing a flat tire (i.e. patching the tube). Flats were very common in the teens and twenties due to all the horseshoe nails on the roads. With a roadside flat, you changed out the disc wheel spare just like you do today - as a tire/wheel assembly with lug nuts. This wasn't a whole lot different than changing out the rim/tire assembly on the artillery (wood spoke) design other than it just used the 5 or 6 lug nuts to attach it versus more attachment hardware that was typical of most of the artillery wheel designs. The disc wheel/tire assembly was probably a bit heavier than the rim/tire assembly used on an artillery wheel, which is why they made that simple tool that allowed you to slide the wheel up over the stud. As mentioned, the real benefit was when you had the put a patch on your tube. Getting the tire off the disc wheel was really easy compared to the artillery wheel split rim design. First, just a mention on the split rims....those attach to the artillery wheels and are split across the entire cross section of the rim. A rim spreader makes the job easier but it still isn't nearly as easy as the split ring design wheels. Split rims can also be a hazard when pressurizing and there are a number of different designs to lock the halves together, some more robust than others. The disc wheels have a detachable split ring. To remove the tire, first you deflate the tire, insert a screwdriver into the slot in the ring (pictured) and pry up. Once you get it started you just pry the ring off the rim and the tire/tube assembly slides right off. Since mine have the 90 degree nickeled valve stem sticking through the rim, there is also a nut that has to be removed to get the tube off. Once you patch the tube, just slide the tire back over the rim and put the split ring back in place. This Michelin design has a really deep locking groove, deeper than other designs I serviced from the 1960s/70s. I would imagine that they all have their hazard issue - maybe some designs more than others. The hazard is on initial fill and if the ring wasn't seated correctly. I'm not sure how you couldn't get these Michelin designs correctly installed but I'm sure someone figured out how to screw that up. Regardless, I did take precautions during initial fill. Scott
  20. Yes, looks like you have quite a few of the original tools. 👍 Like most OEMs of the day, Studebaker didn't always buy their tools from the same supplier. In their literature they show a couple of different tire pumps (minor differences) but with the same part number. I have seen a couple original tool sets with different manufacturers for the wrenches, although they were the same shape and size. Most of their wrenches were from the Fairmount Tool and Forging Company and typically had Fairmount Cleve (for Cleveland, OH) embossed letters. The jack is definitely incorrect but the Big/Special Six originals are fairly easy to identify (say Studebaker on side) and find. They were made by the Buckeye Jack Company. The Light Six jacks are harder to find (take a tapered round wood handle vs the flat steel one shown in the parts manual). Not sure about the tool bag. It doesn't match the photo or have enough tool slots but who knows.. I know the original Light Six bag I patterned from had a darker trim around the edge and a strap with a metal buckle end. The oil can isn't the right one (the side looks squared off in the photo - should have nice rounded top) but, again, easy to find those. The grease gun, hand crank, tire repair kit, Michelin tire tool and all the wrenches look correct. If you look on the parts manual page I scanned, I had some notes on the wrench end sizes (in today's numbers) in the left margin. By the way, the 90 degree bent wrench with the tapered square ends (which is probably original) was for rotating the floorboard locks - part number 23827 pictured below. Do a little eBay searching and have a little patience and you'll be surprised to find most of what you need. Suggested searches "Studebaker Jack", Fairmount Cleve", "Studebaker Hub Wrench", "Vintage Thumb Oiler", "Vintage Hand Tire Pump". Good luck. Scott
  21. The engine serial number makes that a 1922 EJ Light Six. Scott
  22. Thanks George. A number of the tools came with the car but I had to hunt down a few others. I was lucky to have a fellow Studebaker owner that had an original Studebaker tool bag. In the picture is the proper use of the original Michelin/Budd Disk Wheel tool in question and why such a simple tool was important. You can also see the nut driver on the ground. These wheels were created as a collaborative project between the Budd Stamping Company (Philadelphia, PA) and the Michelin Company (France) as an improvement over the wood spoke wheels and were proposed to the OEMs of that time. Studebaker began offering them as an option in 1920. They became standard equipment in 1922 on the Big Six and remained an option on the Light and Special Sixes. When the car was ordered, the tool kit that was provided was tailored to have the correct tool set for the wheels that came on it (wood, wire, disc). Scott
  23. Here are the disk wheel tools as shown in the parts manual - part numbers 39928 and 39929. Also is the tool kit for my Light Six (different from the Special/Big Six tools previously posted) which includes the two disk wheel tools shown. The Light Six tool kit shares some of the tools with the other models and is shown in the owners manual (I didn't include that since it doesn't apply to your car). You can also see the tool bag which was patterned after an original (including colors) which would be similar to the Special/Big Six bag. Scott
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