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Wobbly Dave

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    Susquehanna, Pennsylvania

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  1. Thanks for the replies. I don't overfill - I am used to Model T's and it is the same with those. Overfilling causes it to dump. Maybe I will try the No-Rosion and letting the water pump a while at idle.
  2. Got the light six out for the first time. Ran good until I stopped for ice cream and boiled over. filled up and got home. Boiled over again after I shut it down. It is fine while moving. Found the fan belt loose enough that it could be a problem. No more room for adjustment. What is the length of the light six belt and where to get one? Could the loose belt really be the entire problem of boiling over? Would a coolant recovery system solve this problem assuming I get a new fan belt? Thoughts please..... David Berg
  3. Many thanks to Stude Light who did amazing work on this carb. I got it on and it is perfect. He sure knows his stuff!
  4. Sorry for the delay -I have been unable to get to the computer for a few days. So the one on ebay had an undisclosed "repair" of the high speed adjustment which was a huge blob of brazing that totally ruined the body. It is also different in some aspects (such as location of high speed screw) than the Studebaker model with slightly different parts. The one that came with the car: Float chamber top is cracked in half. Float needle badly overtightened or otherwise pressed/hammered at one point causing deep groves in bevel so it leaks a lot. Main discharge jet (I think that is what it is called - jet in the accelerator well) has been totally mangled and I cannot get it out because last owner broke the slotted screw top, and must have hammered on it because now it will not move. The jet was likely mangled in an attempt to use a pliers around the jet to turn it off. I am hesitant to risk damaging it further because at least the car starts and runs, although very sluggish response from carb makes it impossible to drive safely. In addition to the main discharge jet, some of the other screws on the carb have been broken in their holes. Economizer needle is very sticky. May all be fixable but I probably do not have the skill or tools. is there supposed to be a gasket between float chamber and cover?
  5. yeah - Way to rich for my blood . . . Thanks. Are there any reasonable alternatives for this car?
  6. I have a 1921 Light Six and need a Stromberg OS-1. Bought one on E-Bay and it turned out to be trash. Any leads would be appreciated.
  7. Cool -thanks a bunch. Going to go play now . . . I will update on progress once I have something! What literature has these great diagrams?
  8. Again - very grateful for the help. The starter motor (on cursory examination), appears that it will hit the steering sector housing if turned down but I am going to give it a go. I will keep you posted! On the control rods, I agree that the large bend seems unwieldy and that turning the motor down makes sense, however, the Light Six service manual has a picture (2M) that appears to show the throttle rod very bent like mine - any thoughts on this?
  9. Thanks - I will have to look this over tomorrow - Very helpful! I should be able to get a handle on it from the diagrams. But - when you say the starter motor is installed upside down - not sure what you mean. I had it rebuilt a year ago by Precision Power and just pulled it out this week - never got a chance to look at it before due to illness. It does turn the motor over in the right direction . . . While I am on a roll - where do the clips in this photo go?
  10. Sure looks a LOT like my 21 light six.
  11. Trying to figure out how all the control rods are connected etc. Are the small levers that connect to the control rods for spark and throttle on the driver's side supposed to face up or down? Right now, the way I have it, the foot throttle pedal seems to counteract the direction of the hand throttle on the steering sector (I am assuming that spark is retarded and throttle is at its lowest when both sector arms on the steering wheel are at the top like in the photo Can someone post photos of the correct orientation of rods and connectors on both sides including carburetor rod Please??? Thanks in advance!
  12. I have a 1921 Light Six. Assuming that the screw on crank shaft covers are unavailable, what do other light six owners do? I don't like the thought of junk getting in the motor by leaving it open. When I cleaned it, the inside of the crank hole was full of grit.
  13. Thanks for the additional info. I will have to check, but pretty sure I have the earlier chain and sprocket.
  14. Thanks - the chain looks like it is the same either direction, so maybe it is a replacement. It certainly seemed to work fine before I took the motor out.
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