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Stude Light

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Everything posted by Stude Light

  1. You are running on disc wheels, correct? Being so narrow, you can probably have them single plane balanced. Mine are not balanced and I have no issues. If you are having an issue, I suggest having someone follow you while driving to make sure they are all running true first then check your front wheel alignment, kingpins, front wheel bearings and tie rod ends for looseness. Generally at 40 or 45 mph with these tall tires you won't feel a balance issue unless it's really bad. I still have a spare 24" disc wheel that I never managed to ship out and I'm tripping over it. If interested PM me and I can try to get that out. I do have a few spare lug nuts - maybe a few of each Scott
  2. Very cool. Having the history is worth way more than just the car. Thanks for sharing. Scott
  3. Right, and that is where the extra time (and cost) really matters and you guys that do such top quality work don't always blow your horn enough. Sure a top may look good from 3 feet away but when you walk up to it and notice the evenly spaced stitching, straight as an arrow stitch lines that follow contours perfectly, consistent width on the margins, alignment between features, nicely crimped lift-the-dot connectors and snaps, taught material, etc. That is when you know you've had a quality job done and people notice. I get a lot of compliments on my top and side curtains then people look at my upholstery and say "What the heck?" Yes, I went to a family friend and got exactly what I paid for. It's not terrible but certainly not to the standards that a pro like David or Mark have. Sure I could redo the upholstery but I just can't justify the cost of doing it twice on a low demand nickel era car that might be worth $25k as is. So, my suggestion is to budget appropriately and do it once - correctly. Scott
  4. Another Mark Larder top on my car. He is local to me (Homer, MI) otherwise I would have run it out to a certain shop in Winchester, VA. That is a Haartz Stayfast material. Scott
  5. Actually a paint with high thermal conductivity, such as one containing titanium dioxide, will improve heat transfer but I was considering a slosh (like fuel tank slosh) which will have a negative effect as it is typically a thermal insulator and can have a fairly high coating thickness. I agree that just painting would probably be negligible. Just wanted OP to consider potential negative effects, depending on what his intended plan was. Re-reading...maybe this is just a water jacket cover so it doesn't really matter. For a corrosion inhibitor, I've had really good success with a product called No-Rosion which I added to just straight water for coolant. It also works well with glycol based coolants. I chose water, besides being the best heat transfer fluid, any leaks or overheating would not compromise my paint. Running it in a 1923 car with mixture of copper, brass, steel and aluminum in cooling system and it still looks like the day I put it in 3 years ago.
  6. Personally I would skip the coating and ensure you run coolant with a good corrosion inhibitor as mentioned by others. I forsee any coating coming off and doing bad things. I assume this is just a small area of your cooling system so any reduction in heat transfer would not be of concern. If you were looking at sloshing the coolant jackets of an engine block with some type of coating then you would be greatly reducing heat transfer ability of your coolant system. Scott
  7. I seem to recall that rim loading is significantly different between bias-ply and radial construction. Radials require a stronger rim construction as the belting is mostly around the radius of the cross-section - basically running from bead to bead along the radius which concentrates the load of the tire patch deflection to a smaller area of the rim. The bias-ply tires have the belting along a bias so the ends of the belts are not on opposing beads but offset several inches across the beads. This spreads the tire patch loading across a wider surface of the rim. So, the rim strength design is based upon the type of tire used. Putting radials on a rim designed for bias-ply may cause premature rim failure vs using bias-ply. This may show up as a crack in the rim. I'm not saying everyone will fail their rims with radials but some may have issues after running 5k, 10k, 50k, 75k ?? miles depending on the safety factor used in the rim design.
  8. Picks of one at the National Meet in Auburn last weekend.
  9. My guess is the Type 45 was a new profile that came out in 1923 and runs quieter. This probably became the standard profile and there was no need to further mark the later parts. Now the hard part...can you buy both the new profile and old profile chains based on the sprockets you are running? I've looked in the past - matching up the different parts and didn't really see a difference.
  10. Bob, That sprocket must have "Type 45" stamped on it to be correct. Look at the location of the arrow in the photo I posted earlier in this thread.....basically on the machined center portion between the bolt holes. Scott
  11. BTW - Love that car. Thanks for sharing the photos.
  12. Book shows them as part number 39868 and for a Big Six. Same illustration for the Light Six part number 120398. They look the same but must have some differences...maybe rim width. I was just questioning as they look just like my Light Six rims but they are for a Big Six. Scott
  13. When it comes to the early vehicle names, sometimes it's just easier to use the vehicle models instead. Based on what has been discussed above these are part number 32100 and should fit: 1919-1921 EH 1922-1924 EL 1925-1927 EQ Depending on the year the EH model was called a Light Six or Special Six so its gets confusing. ELs and EQs were only called Special Six. Hopefully you find a buyer.
  14. Bob, Prayers and best wishes for your wife's surgery and speedy recovery. At that age just the anesthesia is a risk. Take care of the important stuff. Scott
  15. Glen, Unfortunately, only a few castings would have part numbers cast in. The rest of these old parts generally have no markings and are just piled in boxes. Most people's collections from the 1920s are this way so unless you know exactly what to look for it is hard to identify. The only usefulness I found for part numbers is to identify which model years and models might be common. Here is a good example...Studebaker right rear fenders. What year? What model? What body style? I have no idea, just know it is from a 1920s Studebaker so unless you have something to match it to, it's a crap shoot. Scott
  16. Bob, A couple of those chains are tagged but I believe they are all used - may not all be Light Six. Glen is looking for the 1923/24 sprocket setup that uses a "Type 45" chain. I'm pretty sure the sprocket on the end of that crankshaft should be marked "Type 45" (see photo I posted for locating). If so, then I suggest removing it. You should find a couple of other accessory drive sprockets in one of those bins. If it has 15 teeth it is a "Type 45". If it only has 14 teeth it goes with the older chain design (1920-1922). I don't recall a spare cam sprocket in those bins but I may be mistaken. If you find one just look for the "Type 45" stamp. Scott
  17. This is a photo of my engine (early 1923 with aluminum head - s/n EM102190) when I assembled it and the location of the "Type 45" markings on the sprockets. Note: The marking on the accessory drive sprocket didn't showed up too well but you can see it better on the disassembly photo. This should at least help with identifying the Type 45 parts. I purchased my timing chain from: Dave Thibeault 13 Nick Lane Maynard, MA 01754 978-897-3158 Dave may be able to answer questions on the chains. My "pre-Type 45" parts are still rather greasy and tucked away so you'll have to give me some time to dig them out. Scott
  18. I try to use a brand name SAE30 that I find on sale in a local store in anything pre-war.
  19. I have a full set of EJ sprockets along with a 4 lobe distributor drive gear if you can't find what you need and want to revert to the 1920-22 setup if the sprockets you have are messed up. They are all in excellent shape. I also have the distributor support housing with the older drive gear. This all came off a 1922 engine, although it was fitted with a Delco Remy distributor - probably off something from the late 20s. I also have a Wagner coil if you need one. I know Robert has several Wagner coils. Robert should have a Morse Type 45 crankshaft drive sprocket on the end of a worn out crankshaft I gave him. I know I didn't give him a cam sprocket but he may have the Type 45 accessory drive sprocket. Scott
  20. Not sure those are for a Big Six. 23" rims and six lug bolts match the Light Six specs. I will have to reference the parts manual later this week to verify
  21. Spinneyhill has provided sound advice. I would definitely drop the oil pan. This is a splash lube engine. Unless I plan on cold weather, I like to run straight weight oil, like SAE30. Personally, I would start with mineral oil, run it for a while until you get all the issues resolved (like flooded carbs and running over rich, etc) then change the oil. This way you don't spend a bunch of money on the more expense synthetic for the first several hours of running. It's a matter of preference on sticking with mineral oil vs a synthetic....synthetic is best and costs more. Today's mineral is far superior than what was around in 1915 and will work fine. I prefer mineral since I have no oil filter and like to do frequent oil changes due to the added carbon you get in the oil from less than ideal combustion in these old engines. I believe your car will take 6 quarts. Just run lowest octane unleaded that you can find. Ethanol free would be nice but there isn't any rubber or aluminum in your fuel system that would cause an issue. A friend has a 1914 SC-4 and could probably help with some questions. Where are you located? Scott
  22. Model number from the tag would be helpful to determine application. Scott
  23. For the Light Six in 1920-22 they used a 3 ring piston with an 11/16" piston pin and unbushed. Then sometime in 1922 they switched to a 4 ring piston with a bushed pin. In 1924 they changed to a larger diameter (7/8") piston pin. Rods and piston pins need to match pin bore size in pistons.
  24. If I didn't buy the LaSalle last fall, I would be really interested, although..... Title Status: missing That might concern me a bit, especially for out of state sales.
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