DavidMc

Looks great, I am glad the Amal worked out. I have the ignition timing on mine set at TDC fully retarded and about 32 deg before TDC fully advanced. David McCredie

You will need to remove the door handles and trim to access the window winding mechanism. The handles are held on by a small pin that is accessed by pushing the spring loaded escutcheons away from the handle. Also check the tracks.

Thanks, I still have it, there is some White activity on this site, maybe someone needs it?

Is there any information about the 1909 to 1912 Maxwell 2 cylinder cars?

These are also active Maxwell sites : https://www.facebook.com/groups/1863711890535485/ https://maxwellautomobiles.proboards.com/ https://maxwellbriscoeowners.groups.io/g/main/topics

I suggest you replace the old cork float with one made from Nitrophyl Google it if your not familiar with this useful product

The 626 and 633 cars both used 8 lug 20" wheels.

Grimy, the features that are identical to the early Packard are the loop door handles, the hood clips, the cowl and vent. windscreen and posts, cowl and particularly the the top frames with that small centre bow frame that was only used on the longer wheelbase 7 passenger open cars. Evert detail I see matches the Packard.

I think its an early 1920's Packard 7 passenger

I just checked a copy of the Maxwell owner's register that was maintained by the late Vern Campbell. Unfortunately AB 14480 is not listed.

Metal stitching can work well but it needs a minimum thickness for the pins, I used it years ago in a similar location but the internal corrosion of the water jacket had reduced the metal thickness and the stitching failed after a short while. Welders I spoke to said it could not be welded. I tried Iron Tight and other witches brews and they were useless in such a location. I had to find another cylinder block. Not want you want to hear.

A radiator has many water tubes or passages that provide parallel paths for the coolant to flow through. Over time some of those become blocked with crud reducing the cooling efficiency. When the radiator is flushed or a cleaning additive used, it will generally clean out all of the open passages that are reasonably clear but it will bypass any that are heavily blocked. With so many alternate paths, the flushing liquid will take the paths of least resistance and bypass the blockages. This can be improved by using a very large flow rate, when that does not work the solution is to remove the top and bottom tanks and rod reach tube until it is clear. This does not work with old honeycomb radiators where the passages are not straight. A new core is needed when the old one has too many blocked tubes and/or leaks. The radiator is designed to cool the water under worst case conditions of full engine power, low air flow and maximum ambient temperature. Under all other conditions the thermostat restricts the water flow to prevent over cooling.

I was very sorry to read of Steve's passing, I only had brief contact via email regarding the Maxwell book. The book has details of how to adjust the original carburetor, I know of two people here who have their cars running well on the original carburetor. I did not have that information when I got my car (1912 AC) and I was not able to get it to work well. So I fitted the Amal which works very well. Maybe I will go back to the original sometime and try again . As for oil leaks, its a total loss system so they leak lots of oil. The book has some suggestions but if it's not making a mess underneath its probably not getting enough oil. Good luck with the car . I look forward to progress reports here on the forum. David McCredie

Buzz, I have sent you a PM

Heat the spoke nuts to red heat with oxy/acetylene, then they will unscrew.

"there are no 'open' rotating parts at the drive train. Everything is enclosed, that means that only the flywheel is available to use for an electric starter." I have a two cylinder Maxwell with the same limitation for fitting a starter motor., the flywheel is the only exposed rotating part of the engine. The previous owner fitted a combined starter/generator with a belt drive around the flywheel. This is a common modification for these cars and does not involve any welding or drilling of holes. The flywheel is 18" diameter and the starter generator pully is 2" diameter so when the engine is running there is a 9:1 step up in speed on the generator which is designed to run at up to 12,000 RPM. It worked well but I removed it and now start it by hand. I can provide more detail if you are interested.

The vacuum tank should never need priming provided the fuel valve is kept shut when that car is not used. There will always be enough fuel in the outer tank to start the car (unless it has been left so long that the fuel has evaporated out of the tiny vent line). As soon as the car starts vacuum will keep it topped up. I have been driving cars with vacuum tanks since the around 1970. It is one of the most trouble free parts of the cars. An electric pump if left on for too long can over fill the vacuum tank risking the vacuum line sucking fuel back into the inlet manifiold. Its a bad idea. The only reason for fitting an electric fuel pump to a car with a vacuum tank, IMO, is to help with vapor lock but it needs to bypass the vacuum tank and feed directly to the carburetor preferably with a return line to the main fuel tank .

The valve stems on the tubes for my 740 came out through the centre of the rim then turned at 90 deg to pass through the hole in the disc. The the tubes that I used had bendable valve stems.

Regarding those reproduction DL carburetors. A friend bought one a few years ago for his 1929 Packard. He was told to fit it and not touch the adjustments, it had been adjusted and test run on the same model car. He did that and the car ran perfectly. They might seem expensive but when you see one and realise the precision work that it took to make it they are worth the money, and no more pot metal which is why I would not waste any money on an original.

Is it possible for an engine to start and run and yet have such a major tuning issue with timing , mixture whatever, to cause such extreme and rapid overheating? Surely only lack of cooling could cause such overheating?

You can fix the title by hitting "Edit" at the bottom of your post. Then it might show up in search in future by someone who can help.

I kept using a large molasses tank for a couple of years without any recharge. It just got slower and slower. I took the pieces out from time to time , basted them with high pressure water, gave them a wire brush scrub and put them back. Eventually all rust was gone. Needless to say I wasn't waiting on those parts. Its an excellent and cheap process, if you are not in a hurry.

How about "tribute car" , I have nothing against the concept just the stupid name.

If you want to keep it authentic, research the original finish, you will probably find they were painted and pin striped not clear coated.

Phil, That is correct. The hinge pins will probably be about 5/16" dia and a 5/16" rod will flex easily and conform to out of alignment hinges so you will need to make sure its free to move and not bending. You will also need to make sure the hinges are not worn, if they are they need to be sleeved or replaced if new ones are available. There is no one simple fix but the end result can be very satisfying . '