DavidMc

When adjusting hinges you need to remove the hinge pins and fit a rod of the same diameter as the hinge pin through the hinges to ensure the hinges all pivot on the same axis. Otherwise they will bind and loosen as the door is opened. Once everything is correct the rod is removed and the hinge pins fitted. You may also have to adjust the packers between the body and the chassis. That can fix one problem and create another. It can be a very time consuming job with lots of trial and error.

Worn hinge pins, loose hinge screws , rotten door frame timber, previously replaced timber not properly fitted . Any or all of these can be the problem.

Further to my earlier post and the above comments, I once visited a restoration shop that specialised in restoring E Types. The owner showed us the subframes and what is needed the replace seriously rusted structural parts. He told us that he had never seen one that was not structurally compromised by rust. When these cars were new painting was confined to external surfaces, internal parts were unpainted. Any prospective purchase needs to be inspected by an expert with the model.

Wonderful looking cars, I remember seeing them when they were new at a motor show and thinking they were from another planet. But they are not the most trouble free cars, certainly not like your Miata. Many years ago a guy I new bought a used Jaguar XJS ( the model that followed the E Type) for his partner and a Datsun 120Y for her to drive when the Jaguar was being repaired, true story. The key to ownership of any old Jaguar is finding a Jaguar expert to service it and, as has been said, buying the very best example possible.

My 1912 Maxwell 2 cylinder has full elliptical springs back and front and it has a harsh ride on rough surfaces..

After reading all this, I removed my 30 year old fluorescents today and replaced them with LED's. The improvement is incredible, I think I will need to wear sunglasses in my garage!

It should just lift off, the base must be stuck to the head, a little gently persuasion should release it. Alternatively you can release the clamp that fixes the distributer to the base and remove it along with the drive shaft then remove the head with the base still attached. The drive shaft has a square end where it engages the gear on the camshaft so make sure you note the position of the rotor before removing it.

Steve, Have you received the book yet? There is good information in it about how it works and how to adjust it along with modern alternatives. What specifically do you want to know? David

Trial and error unfortunately seems to be the only way and it can take a long time. Also use shims behind the hinges and some people put a diagonal brace with a turnbuckle to pull a corner in a little. if there are rubber bump stops at the top and or bottom of the door where it closes these can be made bigger or smaller to assist in bringing in a corner.

Matt, Finding a tiny ceramic seal can be difficult. I have managed to fit ceramic seals to the water pumps on a couple of 1920's Packards where space was very tight, eg 5/8" shaft in a 1 1/4" bore dia housing. I had to use the seat and spring from one seal and the shaft seal from another. I think they were a mix of metric and imperial but it worked. If depth is an issue the spring can be shortened, Garlock will not agree with this but we are sealing negligible pressure and spring tension is not so critical. I have attached a sketch which may be too hard to read. The seals were Garlock and the part numbers were: Shaft seal & SPRING: 340HFCXXXX10 Seat: 340XXXXAKF016 It took a lot of searching and a very helpful person at Garlock. The person reconditioning your pump probably can't spare the time, maybe you can find a suitable small seal.

I have restored and owned a 1926 Buick and worked on a RR 20/25. I can't imagine 2 more different engines.

I also once had an infatuation for a Rolls Royce 20/25 . It too had an attractive body and was running but in need of a lot of work. The infatuation lasted too long but sanity prevailed and I passed on it. later I helped a friend strip one of these cars back to the chassis for a complete restoration. It was the most complicated car I have ever seen, by far. It made me very glad I passed on the one that previously had me infatuated. If you go ahead with this one do so with your eyes (and check book) wide open. It certainly looks good.

Find a shop that makes springs, you may be surprised at what they can do. I was looking for one of the tiny springs that hold the counterweights in the the distributer . I talked to a local spring manufacturer expecting to be told that it was too small or I needed to order 1000 springs. Instead he said no problem come back in a week and I will make a couple of spares. I don't recall the cost but it was very cheap. I can't help with a contact, I ma in Australia.

That book is available on Amazon, I just ordered a copy, thanks.

My experience and my comments are only with cars with vacuum tanks, I have not owned later cars with fuel pumps. I do not want to sound negative but most fixes work on those cars with a low tendency to vapour lock or because the car has not been driven in the conditions that cause vapor lock. I have driven my cars many thousands of miles and they ran fine under most conditions, they still ran fine in hot weather providing there were no long steep climbs or lots of delays at traffic lights. Leaving the hood closed after a run then trying to start it while still hot is another potential vaporization condition. If the car in question does not tend to vapor lock in adverse conditions then just avoiding ethanol is probably all that is needed. But if, for example, it has a vacuum tank right over the exhaust manifold or the carburetor in the "V" between the cylinders such as a an early Twin Six Packard, then it has been my experience that despite adopting all the usual preventative measures, if the conditions are sufficiently adverse, the fuel will occasionally vaporise. I have run my Packards many thousands of miles mostly without a problem but occasionally nothing would prevent vaporisation of the fuel and the consequent problems. Avoid those driving conditions, fit heat shields etc and there will not be a problem. How about this for a wild idea to cool the vacuum tank when necessary? Fit a shroud around it, and release CO2 from a small concealed CO2 bottle into the shroud to cool the vacuum tank. This is not a serious suggestion!

I have tried adding diesel, it did not help. I called a local fuel company many years ago and spoke to technical person. He told me that kerosene would be much better that diesel and not detrimental. The problem is in getting enough kerosene to make a difference. As has been said, ethanol fuels are many times worse but its not a new problem, Packard was issuing technical letters back in the early 1930s advising dealers of remedies for vapor lock, its just much worse now with modern more volatile fuels. I started driving in 1960 and back then certain makes of cars were notorious for vapor lock on hot summer days here. (Australia). Incidentally vapor lock has nothing to do with octane rating.

I have experienced vapor lock with 1920's Packards with vacuum tanks. I have removed the tank top on the side of the road to see fuel boiling in the tank, I don't think this stops it flowing to the carburetor but the carburetor is also hot so the fuel continues to boil in the float bowl and flows to the venturi and the engine as a a mixture of liquid and vapor. The vapor has very little energy so the engine coughs and splutters. Insulation, heat shield under the vacuum tank help but in 100deg F I would add at least 10% kerosene to the fuel, 20% is better. I have done it many times. It usually gets you going but in really hot weather the car is almost impossible to drive. I once got home by stopping every minute or two on hills to cool the carburetor and vacuum tank with a very wet rag, the problem is much worse on long steep climbs. I avoid using the cars in very hot weather. Vapor lock, percolation, fuel boiling call it what you like the effect is the same and its a big PITA in hot weather. The colder the weather the better they run.

Sounds like vapor lock, was it a hot day? You can test a coil be removing the high tension lead from the coil to the distributor where it joins the distributor then holding the end about 1/4" away from the block while flicking the points open and closed. If the coil is OK it should give about 1/4" spark, with the ignition on of course. If it's vepor lock a very wet rag to cool the carburetor and fuel supply parts should give immediate but temporary relief. Ethanol fuels significantly increase the tendency to vapor lock.

There is a vertical pipe from the carburetor inside the exhaust manifold, to heat the fuel air mixture. It can rust through allowing the engine to draw in exhaust gas with the fuel.. The pipe can be pressed out and replaced. That would be the first thing to check.

The lock has two tabs that retract when the key is turned, allowing the lock to be withdrawn from the wheel. The lock is always free to rotate so it must be held to stop it turning while the key is turned

Those locks have a pair of tabs that retract when the key is turned allowing the lock to be removed. The body is free to turn when installed and it needs to be held to stop it turning while the key is turned.

I agree with the previous comments, I have had them in my 1920's cars and they work fine. What is wrong with yours? You refer to the cannister, does it leak? Have you had it working?

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The strapping inside is separated by thin strips of brass to reduce friction. The brass is usually cracked. I replaced it with very thin polished stainless steel. I set mine up using the above instructions. I drove the car with them removed, then with them fitted after rebuilding. I could not feel any difference.

No more big projects for me Mal, I am cured!! David