DavidMc

The battery only has to run the 6v ignition system' There is nothing else, it has gas light, no starter etc I only needs a very small battery

The ignition system draws very little current. A 6V Optima is a gross over kill. My 2 cylinder will run for a day tour on a 6v Dolphin torch battery or if you are concerned use 2 torch batteries parallel. Alternatively you can buy small similar sized 6v rechargeable batteries.

Or try https://pac-carbs.com/collections/carburetors-1

You need to post this in the Maxwell forum below however the answer to your question is no. Is there a particular model behind your question?

Something at the other end of the scale to a Twin Six Packard. My 1912 Maxwell 2 cylinder.

Matt, many years ago I modified a packed gland water pump to take a modern mechanical seal. The seals come in a very large variety of sizes and I was able to find one that could be fitted, after some modification to the pump. It was not visible from the outside and never leaked a drop after that. I subsequently did the same on two other cars with the same result.

To put it another way, having three pins keeps the shackle straps parallel against cornering forces. See sketch

1929 was the first year for Packard to use chrome on the outside of the cars with nickel still used on the interior

pmh : I'd be interested to learn how those of you who use paint strippers guarantee a good surface for painting. I blast it off with a high pressure water blaster while its still wet, never had a problem

Looks like a one-off creation that looks like nothing else. At the risk of offending the person behind it,I don't like it. if the owner likes it that is good. My 2 cents worth.

Those tank lining products are only as good as the internal condition of the tank. Unless the inside of the tank is 100% clean and corrosion free (and there is no way of being sure), then the bond of the lining material to the tank may be fine but where the lining is over corrosion, say a corner or crevice, then you are relying upon the bond of the corrosion to the tank. When that lets go it takes the lining with it. Then you have a serious problem. I used one of the tank lining products that lasted for the 30 odd years I owned the car. BUT before applying it I cut a large hole in the top of the tank and soaked it in molasses until I could see that the inside was perfectly clean with no rust, then I soldered a patch on the top and sloshed the lining inside in accordance with the directions. A new tank is tempting!

I have to agree with Jeff, unless you enjoy working with wood and have plenty of time. I agree with the other comments above. I replaced all wood in three 1920's cars over a very long time. The woodwork in each one took a long time, there is no easy way. The original steel panels need to be assembled and temporarily supported, correctly aligned to the original shape. Then each piece of timber is shaped to fit inside the panels using the remnants of the original pieces (if the exist) and fitted in places with tightly fitted joins between each piece. Most pieces will not be square to each other. Access to an identical model car can be a great help for basic dimensions but its wood will be covered with trim. Drawings may not exist. The work is the reverse of the way it was done originally. You need to like working with wood and be very patient if so it is very rewarding.

To completely remove all rust, unless it is light surface rust, sandblasting or immersion in a rust removal chemical are the only fully effective methods. Electrolysis also removes all rust but is not practical for a large part like a chassis. The paint on chemicals generally only treat the outer surface, some will completely remove the rust with repeated applications. Painting over treated surfaces then seals the area. POR 15 type products seal better than more conventional paints. Once a surface has had all loose rust removed and the remaining tightly bonded rust treated and well painted the rust is unlikely to be reactivated under good storage conditions. One of the most economical and effective methods of complete rust removal for smaller parts is full immersion in molasses diluted 10-20 :1 with water. Molasses does not affect steel, it does not remove paint, it is slow, smells, attracts flies so it needs to be well away from dwellings. I used it some years ago to strip deeply rust pitted 1920's disc wheels. It took a long time about 12 months if I recall but the result was exactly the same as blasting but much cheaper. Molasses is excellent when working on a long-term restoration project where there is plenty of other work to do while waiting for the molasses to fully strip parts.

I am not sure how relevant this is, I restored a 1920's Packard many years ago and in the process had an auto electrician check the generator. He removed the third brush and cut out and fitted a voltage regulator from an early 6V Volkswagon. It worked very well - initially. The ammeter would show about 20 amps after starting the engine, then slowly reduce as the battery charged. Some time later the generator failed because solder in the windings had melted. Further investigation confirmed that this generator should not exceed about 8 amps otherwise it will overheat as mine did. The problem with many of the generators of the era is that they are located in hot areas of the engine bay and poorly cooled.

Two possibilities, the new top gasket does not have hole for the vent that allows the fuel to flow to the carburetor, or the small brass valve seats cast into the pot metal top are loose and leaking vacuum.

I believe the 1910/11 Buick Model 14 known as the "Buggeyabout" had side valves. The engine had two cylinder horizontally opposed

It will go 50 MPH and more but the engine will be revving too fast for anything other than a very short burst at that speed.

Congratulations, they are a fine car. I restored and owned the almost identical Standard 1926 model many years ago. There is a tube inside the exhaust manifold above the carburetor to heat the fuel/air mixture from the caburetor. It is not uncommon for this inner tube to corrode and develop pin holes allowing exhaust gasses into the intake. This will make the car run very badly. The tube can be pressed out and replaced. That is the first thing I would check Also, these cars are quite low geared and the engine will be working very hard at much above 40 mph

I recently spoke to an anodizing firm about re-anodising a pair of aluminium sill plates, the person I spoke to was helpful and prepared to do them but said there was a high chance the sill plates would be destroyed by the process. He recommended polishing and clear coating so I have polished out most of the scratches and will be clear coating them with "Protectaclear", it is claimed to be suitable for aluminium and it is expensive. https://shop.everbritecoatings.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=7

A body style that only its mother could love!!

In answer to the original question, I had a 1930 Packard 740 Limo with the 4 speed gearbox and never used the low gear, it would take off in any gear on level ground with a little clutch slip if it was 4th gear. I normally started in second gear then as soon as it was rolling slipped it into 3rd. The low low 1st gear was unnecessary.

Tackle the most difficult jobs first, probably bodywork issues.

I have run a 12v battery through a 6v coil for a trial and it was OK but I forgot to turn the ignition off and 10 minutes later the coil exploded making a huge mess and some damage. I won't be trying that again.

The car is a Jaguar XKSS, essentially the road car version of the racing D type Jaguar

I have used these and they work well. The amber lights fit neatly between the two bars of the bumpers on 1920's cars. https://www.logolites.com/products/turn-signals/