DavidMc

The strapping inside is separated by thin strips of brass to reduce friction. The brass is usually cracked. I replaced it with very thin polished stainless steel. I set mine up using the above instructions. I drove the car with them removed, then with them fitted after rebuilding. I could not feel any difference.

No more big projects for me Mal, I am cured!! David

Is the article about the "barn find" Packard?

1924 Packard model 143....1st year 8 Cylinder....long hood....dual spares That Packard is actually the rare 136 (or 236) Sport model with the low profile body. The most obvious clue is the Sport had the rear doors hinged at the front, the rear doors on the 143 were rear hinged

It's a known problem, I found the same on my 1922 Packard 126 engine and know of other who also found a cracked main bearing cap on early Packard 6 cylinder engines.

I have a car with scoops on the big ends and I wonder if they really scoop oil from the sump or whether the just catch oil splash as the rotate. When the engine is running at say 1200 RPM the scoops will be dipping into the sump 20 times per second. As the scoop enters the sump it will displace the oil and it will not have time to recover before the scoop is back. So the oil will have a channel caused by the rotating big end. However scoop lubricated big end bearing work so my guess is that it has little to do with the scoop picking up oil as it passes through the sump at normal operating speeds and more to do with collecting oil splash. Just my 2 cents worth.

I agree with Ed. Acronyms tend to be regional and this site is read worldwide so if you want to be understood, spell it out.

I had a 1922 6 cylinder Packard 126 Sport with the following numbers: Body number U 14... AR Chassis number U 14... Engine number U 14... B Its just the way they were numbered, I don't think the "U" means anything. I also have a spare 1924 226 engine that does not have a letter prefix

1911 Model AB, twin cylinder.

This is the radiator script on a 1922 Packard 126 delivered new RHD to Australia. Most Packards of that era here in Australia have some form of radiator script and they are not always identical suggesting they may have been fitted by the Australian dealer with different dealers using different scripts

Maybe not the same as a 1937 but I made the golf door hinges on a 1929 Packard using shortened piano hinges and machining and fitting the small decorative knobs at at each end. The end result was identical to the originals.

It is extremely important that the pit is arranged so that a car does not block an easy exit from the pit in the unlikely case of a fire.

I would question the logic of repairing a pot metal item. The faults that occur over time such as pitting , expanding or cracking will surely continue ? Any Metallurgists out there who can comment? I have always replaced pot metal items by casting a new brass replacement using using an original repaired with bog.

Is the carburetor on the 1908 NC the same as the one on the smaller twins such as the 1911 AB that I believe George has.

Steve, there is an excellent article by the late Vern Campbell published in the Horseless Carriage Club of America Gazette dated November December 2015 on the 2 cylinder Maxwell carburetor. Send me a PM with your email address and I will send a copy, if you cannot access it.

George, PM sent. David

1929 Packard 640 with non standard headlights and the windshield seems to slope back more than usual

George , That number does not identify the model of the Maxwell, it should have letter/s prefix. The engine number is stamped on the top of the engine, see the attached photo of my engine, the AC prefix identifies my car as a 1912 Model AC. However If the Maxwell in question is one of the larger 5" x 5" twin cylinders then the number may be in a different location although I would expect it to be the same. The carburetor was a Maxwell design and much has been written and discussed about it.

Find something flexible to fit into the groove to prevent it collapsing on the tighter bends and able to be removed after the bending . Flexible cabling works if you can find the right size

I agree that extra gear would make a big difference hill climbing. I don't think I will ever see one in Australia let alone drive one but they sure would be great on a 1-2 cyl tour.

Yes I stand corrected, I overlooked the larger 2 cylinder cars, I am not aware of any in this country.

George, Yes summer is coming on here. 1988, when we held the Bicentennial was a great year for old cars, we had a tour starting in every state captial city ending in the national capital, Canberra where there was over 1000 pre 1930 cars on display at the end of the tour. I drove a 1922 Packard. I have also driven my Maxwell on various 1 week tours plus a three week drive from Perth to Sydney, about 2,500 miles. All of the 2 cylinder Maxwells have 2 seats with an odd exception where a third "mother in law" seat was mounted precariously at the back. The 4 seat touring style bodies were only fitted to the 4 cylinder cars , there were also 2 seat bodies on the 4 cylinder cars . The book will always be a work in progress, its essentially a record of the mechanical restoration of my car with reference material and model ID information. I hope to print a first edition soon. Once you have the ID numbers for your friend's Maxwell it can be positively identified. David

My 1912 Maxwell 2 cyl runs best at maximum advance of about 32deg BTDC under all conditions. Retarding it even slightly when at low RPM on steep hills reduces power. I only retard it on hand crank starting to stop it breaking my arm .

George, Thanks for the picture of your Orient, it looks great, Do you have a picture of your friend's 1907 Maxwell? My Maxwell is a 1912 Model AC , the last of the 2 cylinder models, Maxwell called it a Roadster however other 2 cylinder Maxwells are called "Runabout" or " Tourabout", they are all 2 seat models, the names don't mean much. I am currently nearing completion of a book covering the restoration of my car along with input from other Maxwell owners, useful references and photos. It also includes a comprehensive section covering the identification and history of the 2 cylinders cars from 1904 to 1912. The book covers only the 4" & 4.5" bore 2 cylinders cars , Maxwell also made a larger 2 cylinder car with a 5" x 5" engine , there are not many of those around. I hope I can assist you in your research. The first step is to find the number on the top of the engine and on the heel board below the front of the seat, Those numbers should be the same and will have letter prefixes which will, identify the model, the numbers mean little, for example my car is AC76525 which identifies it as a 1912 model AC. I am in Sydney NSW. David

The only book I am aware of is "Maxwell Motor and the Making of the Chrysler Corporation" by Anthony Yanik, readily available from the internet book shops. Its the history of the company more than the cars although cars are mentioned. https://www.booktopia.com.au/maxwell-motor-and-the-making-of-the-chrysler-corporation-anthony-j-yanik/book/9780814334232.html Do you have a Maxwell, if so what model?