Jerry with a Packard

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About Jerry with a Packard

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  1. I removed the cover over the pushrods. As the engine is cranked, they all move. Looking through the spark plug holes, all valves move. It is awkward to look in those holes. I would say there is not excess carbon, though my judgement lacks experience. Cranking is smooth; no roughness.
  2. 901 Thanks. I thought I replied Sunday, but I must not have hit the reply button. My car is a 426., a six. PAC is the Packard Club.org? This forum seems much more active. I'll await more guidance before I remove the rocker cover.
  3. Well. I am fishing for guidance. My local guy said to not coat it, but the discussion here points to having the inside sealed. Also, the tank's interior is not perfectly clean, but the surface looks stable and firm. So, maybe for the first few miles, I can just deal with it as it is and use a filter. I have much to do first. Cleaning the engine and getting it running are my immediate goals. Putting gas into the vacuum tank by hand will probably work for the initial start and first few miles. Then I will deal with the tank. Jerry
  4. I recently had my original, funky tank ('27 Packard) cleaned by a guy who rotated it for days with sand inside. Looks good as far as I can see. Not all shiny, but with some slight rusty-ness. Like the freckles of an Irish lass. The guy said he would not coat the interior, as "they always fail and that is more of a problem". He said I should just put oil in the gas. This discussion suggests that is a road I do not want to go down. I just looked at it again. More than "slight", but it might be OK with an inline filter???? Jerry
  5. Yes on running it in the garage first, then driveway. Baby steps. Especially since I live up a steep dirt road. Brakes work? Marvel Mystery Oil should be an additive or used straight?? Visible water passageways are cleaning up better than I thought. Still, more to do. Plan on checking out radiator. Engine moves very smoothly. Keeping an open mind. The manual I have is for a year after mine. It shows an oil filter. Don't plan on using electric fuel pump. I may try to fill up vacuum tank manually first. Yes as to changing oil after an hour (in which case I may not be too worried about oil quality). Probably same for coolant. Thank you JM.
  6. Of course, I will look as to why there is no filter. I'll need to find where the supply tube comes from or would have come from. I think the bracket on the oil filler throat is to hold one end of the oil filter. There are no marks indicating there ever was a filter. BTW, I can see the valves thru the spark plug hole, if I contort myself just right. Thanks Rusty, Jerry
  7. I am eternally grateful for everyone's kind help. I called the guy who works on radiators and he said, "NO, I am trying to retire!" He did suggest I clean it out as best as possible (following the help here), go with it and keep a watchful eye on the yet to be installed temp gauge. I'll first deal with the block. I had a few minutes this morning and thought I would poke around. Should not have worn a good shirt. The pushrods all move as the engine is cranked (hand). There are holes adjacent to the pushrods (about 1/8") and seem to be clear. The valve cover has a thick cork gasket (now trash). The rocker lever cover is next. I'll finish swabbing, then plan on the water blasting. To watch the valves move, do I need to remove the head? (I'll go look to see if I can see them thru the spark plug holes.) I think it is time to remove the hood. I don't see an obvious way to do that. Carl, yes that is Gaviota. You have established my goal: drive that section of highway without white-knuckling it. BTW, the previous owner did put on an electric fuel pump, but didn't finish the job and the gas line is lying on the exhaust pipe. So, new gas line work is in order. Are the fittings the same as flared plumbing fittings? I like the idea of manually filling up the vacuum tank. That, however, is way down the road. Jerry
  8. Thank you Carl, The fellow who cleaned out the gas tank also works on radiators. He may have ideas on the rust in the block. So, I pull the cap. Then what? My manual (Section M59; Connecting Rod Bearings-Take Up) says, "Remove one cap at a time and dress down on surface plate. Replace connecting rod cap to crankshaft, using blue or lampblack to locate high spots and draw up tight. Turn flywheel......Remove bearing, examine for high spots and scrape down..... to 0.001" clearance." I have no idea what the bearing looks like. Will pieces fall out when I remove the cap? What do the italicized words mean? If it is loose, scraping will make it looser????? There are knowledgeable folks around here; I can see them every Sunday morning in the market parking lot. There is also a very good restorer who indulges me. I don't want to bug any of them too much.
  9. OK. I've cleaned out the lower crankcase as best I can using paper towels. Pretty clean now. Still looks good and turns over by hand fine. I took off the water jacket and it is very rusty in there, wet and rusty. I paper toweled that out too. I can only do so much that way. How bad is this? On the under side of the crankcase, on the surface to which the oil pan attaches, at the rear end, there are two cork disks about 1" in diameter. They plug up a hole that open up into the flywheel compartment. They easily push out. One is in great shape, they other is just OK. What are they for? Jerry
  10. Elsewhere (M710) they suggest the oil pressure should be checked before the oil pan is reattached, using a hose dipped into a can of oil as the oil source. Boy, that must be messy.
  11. I have the "Packard Standard Service Manual', revised August 1927 ($5.00). Of course, it is a copy. The photos didn't copy well. It shows (section M514) the tank which looks like a gallon sized paint can with a valve and hose attached. Also a gauge? Section M72 describes the procedure: disconnect the oil manifold from the oil pump*, fill tank 2/3 with oil out of motor, pump up to 30 psi. Dash gauge should register to near 30 psi. Crank motor by hand. "Flow of oil from the connecting rod and main bearings should be in DROPS before reaching floor. (Equivalent to 20 to 60 drops per minute.) Note: this test is used in making motor inspection indicating loose bearings and in refitting main and connecting rod bearings. ....also be used for checking bearing work after an overhaul." *Meaning the oil pan is removed.
  12. More great info. Thanks. "....very lucky...." Do you recommend I take it apart completely? I can probably clean everything I can see. The oil passageways can be blown out? If I can access them. The manual (1928) I have shows a "Test Tank for Lubricating System". Should I try to make one of those? Jerry
  13. Again, thanks. I will do all of those things. When I was buying the car, the owner did go under the car and did something to momentarily engage the starter, so it works. I didn't ask him to go further, for better or worse. I wanted to go through the steps I am going through now to be careful with the engine. Jerry
  14. Cool and thanks. I did fashion a crank, also from a 1" pipe, But I use a pipe wrench. Your solution is more refined. Engine turns over smoothly by hand. Thanks for the experienced info re the filter by-pass. I will do that for starters. I've just learned the difference between detergent and non-detergent oils. Will the detergent oil clean up the gunk that I don't clean out by hand? Jerry
  15. Great help and guidance Mike. Thanks. The gasket at the rear and the front makes a sharp 90 degree turn downward. So, I'll have to be careful at the intersection of the planes. The filter is the next issue. I know what it looks like (from pictures of engines and the manual I have), but it is not there!