Jump to content

Jerry with a Packard

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I hope this is not off topic too far. My car from high school and college. 65 Skylark Gran Sport. Sister in foreground and I am washing the 68 Charger R/T in the background.
  2. Yes to Pete and LaSalle. My first, immediate observation was that the new logo was less masculine. I may get in trouble here, but it is less bold and can I say "limp".
  3. I have sealed up my garage the same way. It works. Don't let the vehicle sit outside and then drive in with a stowaway or two. BTW, if you use a sticky trap and find a innocent victim entraped, mineral oil will dissolve the adhesive very quickly and without trauma. Save the lizards! (I'd use a modified version of a phrase heard on the news these days, ad nauseam, but that wouldn't be politically correct.)
  4. Dan Blocker lived on Halstead Street, Northridge in the San Fernando Valley in the mid 60's. I remember he had a '67 Camaro in the driveway. Chrome decoration mimicking thru the hood carburetors. Don't recall the engine, though it would have been large. Yes, he was a nice guy. There is the Dan Blocker beach along Pacific Coast Highway not far south of Zuma Beach, Malibu area. I always thought it odd that he had a beach named after him.
  5. Matt, I have set up a system similar to yours and was about to put it together. Yours looks more thoughtful. I was going to just use enough to fill up the block and then recirculate that amount. You are using a bucket to allow more Evaporust, yes? Do you not change the fluid for days? Is it recirculating constantly? Thanks, Jerry Don't know how to reply to a specific post.
  6. How does one get the stainless to bend into the shape, in the case of the liner solution? For your '33, the finished piece is machined ("carved") from a block of stainless? What did your cylinders look like? Mine, before hand scraping, are attached:
  7. Well, this is the condition of my water jacket. 1927 Packard 6. Seems to me I can make it work. Am I deluded?
  8. I removed the cover over the pushrods. As the engine is cranked, they all move. Looking through the spark plug holes, all valves move. It is awkward to look in those holes. I would say there is not excess carbon, though my judgement lacks experience. Cranking is smooth; no roughness.
  9. 901 Thanks. I thought I replied Sunday, but I must not have hit the reply button. My car is a 426., a six. PAC is the Packard Club.org? This forum seems much more active. I'll await more guidance before I remove the rocker cover.
  10. Well. I am fishing for guidance. My local guy said to not coat it, but the discussion here points to having the inside sealed. Also, the tank's interior is not perfectly clean, but the surface looks stable and firm. So, maybe for the first few miles, I can just deal with it as it is and use a filter. I have much to do first. Cleaning the engine and getting it running are my immediate goals. Putting gas into the vacuum tank by hand will probably work for the initial start and first few miles. Then I will deal with the tank. Jerry
  11. I recently had my original, funky tank ('27 Packard) cleaned by a guy who rotated it for days with sand inside. Looks good as far as I can see. Not all shiny, but with some slight rusty-ness. Like the freckles of an Irish lass. The guy said he would not coat the interior, as "they always fail and that is more of a problem". He said I should just put oil in the gas. This discussion suggests that is a road I do not want to go down. I just looked at it again. More than "slight", but it might be OK with an inline filter???? Jerry
  12. Yes on running it in the garage first, then driveway. Baby steps. Especially since I live up a steep dirt road. Brakes work? Marvel Mystery Oil should be an additive or used straight?? Visible water passageways are cleaning up better than I thought. Still, more to do. Plan on checking out radiator. Engine moves very smoothly. Keeping an open mind. The manual I have is for a year after mine. It shows an oil filter. Don't plan on using electric fuel pump. I may try to fill up vacuum tank manually first. Yes as to changing oil after an hour (in which case I may not be too
  13. Of course, I will look as to why there is no filter. I'll need to find where the supply tube comes from or would have come from. I think the bracket on the oil filler throat is to hold one end of the oil filter. There are no marks indicating there ever was a filter. BTW, I can see the valves thru the spark plug hole, if I contort myself just right. Thanks Rusty, Jerry
  14. I am eternally grateful for everyone's kind help. I called the guy who works on radiators and he said, "NO, I am trying to retire!" He did suggest I clean it out as best as possible (following the help here), go with it and keep a watchful eye on the yet to be installed temp gauge. I'll first deal with the block. I had a few minutes this morning and thought I would poke around. Should not have worn a good shirt. The pushrods all move as the engine is cranked (hand). There are holes adjacent to the pushrods (about 1/8") and seem to be clear. The valve cover has a thick cork gasket (no
  15. Thank you Carl, The fellow who cleaned out the gas tank also works on radiators. He may have ideas on the rust in the block. So, I pull the cap. Then what? My manual (Section M59; Connecting Rod Bearings-Take Up) says, "Remove one cap at a time and dress down on surface plate. Replace connecting rod cap to crankshaft, using blue or lampblack to locate high spots and draw up tight. Turn flywheel......Remove bearing, examine for high spots and scrape down..... to 0.001" clearance." I have no idea what the bearing looks like. Will pieces fall out when I remove the cap? What do the ita
  • Create New...