sunnybaba

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sunnybaba last won the day on January 14

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About sunnybaba

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  • Birthday 01/13/1945

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  1. I don't know if anybody here at AACA is interested in seeing a Bus, Camper, RV, Recently built out of a 1928 Chevrolet flatbed Truck..... Instead of using wood for the framework as they did back in the 1920's...... I used thin-wall tubular steel. I wanted it to be safe on the freeways, easy to get parts for, and be able to pull some weight, while traveling from Canada to the southwest..... I also really like the vintage body styles... with the sweeping fenders, big headlights... they are so Beautiful ...... This Bus was built outside in the desert of Arizona, during the Winter months... I have No Shop, and used a portable 5,500 watt Generator, and a wire-fed Mig welder....... I dismantled the original 1928 chevrolet truck body... sandblasted the sheet metal, spray painted it outside on a windless day after wetting down the ground, (to keep dust down).... I had to cut/splice/box and stretch, the original Frame.... fabricate engine and transmission mounts. I used a 1985 Chevrolet 4.3L Vortex V6 engine (fit nicely under that small hood, with plenty of power)...... 5 speed transmission....... 3/4 ton chevy rear end... I planed and created tongue & grooves on the white Oak boards and secured them to the steel framework with sheet metal screws...... I rebuilt all the wooden Hickory wheel spokes........ I created the cowl with scrap sheet metal, used two original, opening windshields, side by side.... and welded two visors to make one long one... mounted the original truck doors..... We (my wife & myself), made 20 oak framed, stained glass windows, and 4 arrow turn signal lens.... It had skylights, solar powered electricity, propane 4 burner stove with oven, 2 way (under the counter) Fridge, queen sized Bed and carried 50 gallons of potable running water to the Kitchen sink........ The driver, (ME)... sat on a bench seat up front of a woven willow divider wall. It took 3 months to build, cost $8,000 in total materials.... and we traveled 14,800 miles in it over a period of living in it for 3 years ....... I sold it for $45,000 to a man, retiring, who also lived and traveled in it, before selling it...... It now it lives in a Chevrolet museum in Florida .... I just want to inspire people to bring back to Life and enjoy using, these old vehicles.... and if you do most the work yourself.. you don't need to invest a large amount of money.
  2. I don't know if anybody here at AACA is interested in seeing a Bus, Camper, RV, Recently built out of a 1928 Chevrolet flatbed Truck..... Instead of using wood for the framework as they did back in the 1920's...... I used thin-wall tubular steel. I wanted it to be safe on the freeways, easy to get parts for, and be able to pull some weight, while traveling from Canada to the southwest..... I also really like the vintage body styles... with the sweeping fenders, big headlights... they are so Beautiful ...... This Bus was built outside in the desert of Arizona, during the Winter months... I have No Shop, and used a portable 5,500 watt Generator, and a wire-fed Mig welder....... I dismantled the original 1928 chevrolet truck body... sandblasted the sheet metal, spray painted it outside on a windless day after wetting down the ground, (to keep dust down).... I had to cut/splice/box and stretch, the original Frame.... fabricate engine and transmission mounts. I used a 1985 Chevrolet 4.3L Vortex V6 engine (fit nicely under that small hood, with plenty of power)...... 5 speed transmission....... 3/4 ton chevy rear end... I planed and created tongue & grooves on the white Oak boards and secured them to the steel framework with sheet metal screws...... I rebuilt all the wooden Hickory wheel spokes........ I created the cowl with scrap sheet metal, used two original, opening windshields, side by side.... and welded two visors to make one long one... mounted the original truck doors..... We (my wife & myself), made 20 oak framed, stained glass windows, and 4 arrow turn signal lens.... It had skylights, solar powered electricity, propane 4 burner stove with oven, 2 way (under the counter) Fridge, queen sized Bed and carried 50 gallons of potable running water to the Kitchen sink........ The driver, (ME)... sat on a bench seat up front of a woven willow divider wall. It took 3 months to build, cost $8,000 in total materials.... and we traveled 14,800 miles in it over a period of living in it for 3 years ....... I sold it for $45,000 to a man, retiring, who also lived and traveled in it, before selling it...... It now it lives in a Chevrolet museum in Florida .... I just want to inspire people to bring back to Life and enjoy using, these old vehicles.... and if you do most the work yourself.. you don't need to invest a large amount of money. If you have a low income, don't let that stop you from buying an old vehicle, and as the parts are found at a reasonable price, you can bring it back to life... they are built so simple, they are not hard to figure out.... no need to restore one to original running condition... you can find lots of low mileage engines and running gear parts, at the wrecking yards.... pre-computers, pre 1985...... this does not need to be a rich man's hobby....πŸ™„ Now a true Restoration, back to original, show room condition... this is another story.....that is a Rich man's hobby......
  3. Here is a roller/brush painted truck that I built and painted last year... I used Rustolium enamel.... which is self leveling...... and the second and third coats need to go on when wet.. about 5 minutes after the previous coat.... it was done out side in the sun.....
  4. Yes it cam from the man that uses the Handle; PovertyCove...... from the coast of Maine .... very nice car, runs like a swiss watch..... and can you believe he let it go for $5K.... the market is down enough for some of use 'Lower income guys", to be able to Enjoy these Pre-war machines.... a photo of the back....
  5. Original...?? I think so... hard to tell..? the rest of the paint and upholstery and fender/body welting looks old and original.....
  6. This is just one of several Model A trucks that I have built... doing open heart surgery, face lift and knee replacements, and kidney transplants on them... to bring them back to life, and make them better functioning, than they were new... then driving them thousands of miles on long road trip, for many years as my daily drivers..... This one is a long bed 4x4, 5 speed pickup, disguised as a 1929 Ford
  7. sunnybaba

    Lifting the car

    Here are some real nice 6 ply 650x19 Firestone; https://www.universaltire.com/650-19-firestone-blackwall-tire.html , whatever you buy, look at the load rating, 4 or 6 ply ....? Universal Tires 650-19 Firestone Blackwall Tire More Views Description 650-19 Firestone Blackwall Features: Original fitment for 1930's full-bodied cars Made in USA Details/Options SKU U72573 Construction Tube Type 6 Ply Rated Polyester Load Capacity 1430 @ 36 psi Overall Diameter 33.0" Tread Width 5.1" Suggested Rim Width 3.5-4.5" Weight 32.0000 Notes: $228.00 Quantity: Select Quantity 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 Get Added Tire Protection for $10 per tire. See Details
  8. Ray...... I have driven many long miles also in a heavy pre war sedan... and the bias ply tires will handle rough roads, just fine if your steering box is tight and your camber & castor are correct... then it will track nicely on uneven country roads... here is a link to a 19" Firestone 8 ply tire that is rated at 1950 lbs each... nice tire for a heavy car..
  9. Slack..... Nice looking Franklin...... based on the appearance in the photos, the car looks to be in good condition... perhaps an older restoration. probably won't take much to bring it back to running & driving condition. You might want to place this ad in the Franklin Buy & Sell section here; https://forums.aaca.org/forum/124-franklin-buysell/ My suggestion of a price that it would sell quickly is.... about $10,000 ....πŸ™„ Very attractive model Franklin
  10. THANK YOU.... you guys are great..! I appreciate your suggestions and advice..... The car doesn't actually leak any oil unless the engine is running... and the carport where it is parked has the floor covered with used carpet and then on top of that I have flattened cardboard boxes... like Paul suggests.... I did buy new cork gaskets from Jeff.. and he recommended this special type of high heat gasket glue... to glue the valve cover cork gaskets to the lip if the valve covers...... at present there are NO gaskets at all under the valve covers... (just metal to metal).... so I think I will at lease put those cork gaskets under the valve covers.. Isn't there a way to loosen the push rod tubes (tube nuts) Top & bottom.... without touching the rocker arm cages. or loosing the tappets... and just move or tighten the tubes downward.. so they sit tight against the bottom, round, ring type gaskets that are already under the push rod tubes..??? that is where they are leaking most... around the bottom of the push rod tubes... and I think Paul said that the 1930 tubes were not threaded into the cages..... and then there is another thought that I might be able to slit the new, little round gaskets, I got from Jeff.... slide them under the push rod tubes at the bottom, slide them around the push rods, (because of the slit)... then rotate them so the slit is on the outside... put a little of the Hylomar high temp sealer on the slit..... and then tighten down the tubes with the lock nuts..?? what do you guys think..?? is it possible to loosen and then tighten down, the push rod tubes, without removing the rocker arm cages on a 1930 side draft..? Now that I have said all of that.... I am not going to remove the rocker arm cages and pull out the push rods...... I am just going to Drive it..... with some leaks.... and give it the oil that it uses..... until I get to know 'her' better.... saving the more intimate, inner explorations, once we get to know each other better.....πŸ™„ I am waiting on my seats that are being upholstered, and the new exhaust system, and the rebuilt steering box to come back.. then 'she' will be on the road as my weekly trip to town car..... πŸ˜‹ another thought about those small studs that have the big nuts that hold down the rocker cages... why would you need to even compress a new lock wash..? couldn't you put some locktite on the threads of those studs and just lightly snug down the nuts... and they would stay there without needing to compress lock washers..?
  11. Thanks Paul...... Tom probably did address this in one of the Q&A sessions... I looked under 1930 and then valves in one index... then under valves & 1930 in another index.... and found bits and pieces of what you just told me.... but not, all in order, in one place.... Thanks again for sharing your knowledge... with me/us.... I assume the loosing of the push rod tube nut is different on the '30 & '31...... one above the exhaust manifold and the other ('31) under the manifold... this is based on the photo of the two modified 7/8" wrenches..... Correct..?
  12. Thank you Paul.. I thought you might know... II have a similar situation as Brooklyn Beer does... with leaking push rod tubes (at the bottom) and rocker arm /valve covers... I bought the cork gaskets for both, from Jeff... and read what others have said about using hylomar high temp gasket sealer (sparingly).... and I saw the 7/8" wrench that you posted on brooklyn beers post, with the bend and cut-out used on the S145 .... What I need is a step by step (with photos would be nice)... description of the process of removing the rocker cage, and tightening/lowering the push rod tubes... and how to get that lower round gasket under the tubes ..? (I guess you have to pull out the push rod...and then rotate and thread down the tubes, tighten the lock nuts....... and then install the upper rocker cage gaskets and...... gently tighten down the cage bolts and then reset the rocker arm valve clearance ( Dick L. adjusted them .007 & .010)...... is that .010 on the exhaust..? anyway I need some HELP... getting good instructions, step by step, through the process... I have looked in the members index of questions & answers.. but could not find the good guidance I need to feel confident messing with the valve system gaskets... I'm asking you here on the forum, rather than personally... because I know others my want and need the same instruction ....
  13. Hi, I'm trying to figure out so many things about this 1930 S-145 Franklin, That was modified by Dick Lamphere.... in july of 1974, he took out the Warner T3A three speed transmission ( it was slipping out of second and high gears), He obtained a Warner T 77-1 Four speed from Henry Manwell, and rebuilt that T-77-1 and installed it in the car I have now.... Could anyone tell me if Franklin used a Warner T-77 ..?? or perhaps it came out of a different make vehicle...? Dick used a different bell housing that was 1 " thicker than the T3A .... the total length of the T3A tranny and the T3A bell housing was 20" and the total length of the T-77-1 and it's bell housing was/is 19,75" I Don't think the T-77-1 has syncromesh, but it sure shifts smooth, what little I have driven it.... Any info on the T-77-1 Tranny would be very appreciated. As I read Dick's Record books of all the repairs and maintenance he did on this car... there are soooo oo many changes he made to it.... like putting in a s-135 crank... and then having to lengthen the push rod on the fuel pump, rewiring the generator to make it 12 volts and then a different regulator, and then rewiring the starter, adding a power brake booster, grinding down the push rods, coating the exhaust valves, changing the piston rings, milling .025 off the head, thus increasing the compression..... it goes on and on.... I don't know how much of this car is still a Franklin....... ?? I am trying to sort this vehicle out... Thank God he left detailed journals, of all his 'Experiments' on the car.... I will say one thing about it... It starts right up with a few revolutions of the engine... it runs smooth... doesn't smoke.... has excellent acceleration.. brakes real strong ...( I took off the brake booster) and... I am getting the steering box rebuilt (modified) by Dick Pratt.... so it should steer better..... And I am painting and upholstering it now..... I took the brass pads off the roof that he used to bolt that big rack on the roof.... (he built a new roof using 1 1/8" oak with a galvanized steel covering ... and he carried up to 1,500 lbs on the roof ..!) It is a strong Beast... but will never be brought back to original condition..... I am simply going to get it looking Good and Driving well and then, Drive it.... I think Dick would approve of the way I am going to make use of his car...☺️
  14. It would be Real Nice to know what the price is... and more detailed info and/or photos showing all four sides and the interior and under the hood.... thanks, Sunny