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You walk out to your car and then show your ticket to get back in. No waiting on line at all, it could not possibly be easier. Once your ticket is paid for it's good all day, you can come and go as you please, as many times as you please.

Rain is interesting to navigate in a prewar or brass car, but are there any drivers who have driven through snowfall, on snow-covered roads, on icy roads? I find that anticipating curves and wintry road conditions are substantially heightened when riding on narrow bias ply tires. My kids think that 'drifting' is cool, but its not quite the same when unexpectedly drifting in even a solid and stoutly built 30s car vs modern setup - I don't like the fishtail stress on the Buick frame. Unfortunately I don't have any pics of driving in snowfall because I was doing the driving, but its kind of neat and nostalgic to drive a prewar car during a docile snowfall. Today was a nice sunny May day, took the Buick and used the fancy Wizard control to look at flowers with my wife at the local greenhouse dealer....thankfully no snow in the forecast for quite a few months.

My brother's Chevrolet Cobalt started shaking and stuttering in midtown Manhattan the Sunday before Christmas. It got us home...an hour and a half ride...and quit on the same street as the garage, although still needing to be rescued, we got home safe. It was a scary ride, it was having a lot of trouble the entire trip.

If you don't mind a '36 version, there is one for sale here in Oz.

Nice looking car in an attractive color. There were several manufacturers that used the mattress cover patterned upholstery on their seats. Even as a child I didn't like it and still don't. It wouldn't stop me from owning this nice example though.

The head and gasket were placed on the engine today. Found the distributor- it was in the last place I looked … 🙂 Distributor rebuild next and then we can install the generator.

If you're talking about a Chrysler TC, RockAuto has a few to choose from. As far as swapping them out, it would be no different than any other car with struts. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chrysler,1989,tc+maserati,2.2l+135cid+l4+turbocharged+sohc,1067172,suspension,shock+/+strut,7556

And post a picture of the engine and current oil pan.

Any bids? Offers? I've gotta number in mind just wanna see how far off I am.

I believe this is how it looked before the '35 snout was grafted on.

You want to get a set similar to the one in the link below. I don't know anything about that brand so I'm not recommending it, but the photos of the set are a good illustration of a set like you need. I like the spiral extractors better than the fluted design for removing something like the sensor you are trying to remove. 14Pcs Screw Extractor and Left Hand Drill Bits Set, Bolt Remover Reverse Cobalt HSS Steel Drill Bit for Remove Stripped Screws and Broken Bolts - Amazon.com Without being there to look at the sensor you're trying to remove it would be hard to recommend the extractor size you will need. I'm betting the sensor has 1/8" tapered pipe threads that screw into the block. If that's true, the sensor should have a 1/8" hole in it to guide the drill bit. I would enlarge the hole in it with a 1/4" LEFT hand drill bit like is included in the kit that I linked to. That should still leave enough metal in the sensor for the extractor to bite into. You want to select the largest extractor from the kit that will go deep enough into the hole you drill to get a good bite and still have good strength. Then lightly tap it with a hammer so it will bite into the sensor before you start turning it with a wrench to remove the sensor. You have to be careful not to apply to much torque on the extractor to avoid breaking it. If you break the extractor you are in big trouble. The extractor is so hard that a drill bit won't touch it. The good news is, assuming it is a tapered pipe thread, once you turn it about 1/2-3/4 turn it should spin the rest of the way out easily. Good luck.

A little confusing since you posted a pic of a '34 with a '35 grille added. Among other ground-breaking features, I believe this was the first production car from Detroit with a one-piece, curved windshield.

For sale on Facebook: 1959 Oldsmobile Dynamic 88 Convertible in Green Bay, WI - $14,000 (previously reduced from $15,000) - Must be a member of Facebook to access Seller's contact information Link: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1133622057830595/-1959-Oldsmobile-Dynamic-88-Convertible Seller's Description: 1959 Oldsmobile Dynamic 88 Convertible Condition: Used - Good Recently inherited a 1959 Oldsmobile Dynamic 88 Convertible from my Father. I simply don't have the room to keep it anymore. I don't know a whole lot about the vehicle but I know there aren't a whole lot of them left. Runs and drives - Power windows and top function properly - Back window is out on the top. I believe it's still there just has to be sewn back in - Brand New tourney cover recently - Have the fender skirts for the rear - Car could use some body work but all in all is complete and would be an excellent candidate for restoration - Has some damage on the rear driver side area from being backed into In a parking lot. Won't let me post the video I have of the damaged area. Any questions or if you would like to set up a time to see the vehicle message me and we can get it sorted out. $14,000 firm don't bother me unless you're coming with cash I've had alot of interest and I'm honestly in no rush to sell. For the right price I have ALOT of extra trim/chrome, body panels, dash parts/Instrument clusters, and tons of other miscellaneous pieces and parts. See very short video of one side of car. It is the first "photo" in the Facebook ad.

it's a little crusty but I've had it for years found it in my grandparents barn loft along with a set of wooden spoked model a wheels with the bearings

Did it take some convincing to get them to dip a tank? I would imagine they needed to position it just so to get it to fill and again to drain and prevent undesirable build up.

Thanks guys... You can't be any more anxious than I am but this is a case of "first things first." The interior of my house was never finished so it's not like I'm re-doing it. I'm actually doing what I set out to do 30 years ago but got sidetracked by a very bad 10 years that left me barely able to hang on to the house let alone finish it. If there is anything good in that it's that I'm much better at these things now than I was then and I've had 30 years to plan it even though, as is so often the case with me, the plans change while I'm doing it. A good friend of mine's wife once asked him "doesn't Joe like entertainment?" He replied "sure he does, he just has a different idea of whats entertaining." Weatherhead...we should add 17th and 18th century books, 18th and early 19th century guns, especially New England Rifles, and swords of the same period. I'm actually far better known in the antique arms world than in cars. Here's a couple more of my projects...

Joe, Antique-vintage cars, metal machining and fabrication, vintage home renovation, wood working! You amaze me at your age with your ability and dedication. Post anything, we will enjoy it. 😊

I don't think that idea would have worked for these couches seen in the back alley in our city's 'bad' neighborhood. Someone here made more than that selling photographs of them made into a calendar for a number of years:

To the best of my knowledge and research in Bosch literature, the DU series magnetos came as follows: Independent That is simple one set of spark plugs, no special starting features. Dual Start on battery using a Dual switch coil. Duplex Also start on battery but a different system using a Duplex switch coil and different features on the mag than a Dual system. No DU magnetos had the 2 spark system ( Bosch nomenclature for 2 spark plugs per cylinder). D, DR, Z, ZR, and perhaps others could be ordered with the 2 spark option.

I’ve always thought if you maintain a piece of equipment reasonably close to the day it left the factory, it should perform very well. My low milage ‘50 Buick was getting to the point it was running like crap. It took awhile, but we rebuilt the carb, gave it a complete tune-up with new points ,plugs, condenser, plug wires, etc and now it almost flips over backwards when you turn the key and hit the floor starter. It also has new drum brakes and stops well. It’s cheaper and just as well to maintain it to factory specs rather than re-inventing the wheel. I just have to remember its an old car. Come to think of it, that’s why I have it in the first place.

My 1918 Pierce-Arrow 48-B-5 has its instruments in the center of the "beveled" panel, first year, retained through 1920. Previous models had the instruments in the same plane as the glove boxes requiring the driver to crane his/her head downward from the windshield to view them. Many, many vehicles pre-1920 had centered instruments. Any article considering this remarkable is one of @60FlatTop Bernie's "a bag of groceries" articles. 🙂

For sale on Facebook: 1958 Oldsmobile Super 88 Fiesta 4-door Station Wagon in Whiteland, IN - $41,500 (previously reduced from $43,500) - Call Cole Leonard: 317 506 33 three zero Link: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/7823352871043959/-1958-Oldsmobile-Super-88-Fiesta-Wagon Seller's Description: 1958 Oldsmobile Super 88 Fiesta 4-door Station Wagon Condition: Used - like new A RUST FREE 1958 Oldsmobile Super 88 Feista Wagon with a 371 engine and automatic transmission with radial white walls runs and drives excellent. One repaint original chrome nice windows. Please call Cole Leonard. I will entertain trades on Chevy tri fives, OBS TRUCKS and Chevelles.

What Full Classic has a serpentine belt with an idle pulley like in that 1st picture?

I’m also anxiously waiting for the return……….