charlier Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 VL, First of all I owe you a PM on our discussion. Had a busy weekend and will get to a reply this week. As others have posted tires fail due to temperature (ie driving faster than the tire is rated for which creates heat), age or running over road debris. i have found over the years that where a tire is made (USA vs overseas) is NO guarantee of quality. I had a set of USA made Goodyears on my enclosed trailer that did not last 4 years before I had micro cracks in the sidewalls. These same tires were covered when not being used, inflation was ALWAYS checked before, during and after a towing trip and the total weight of the trailer was over 1,500 lbs under the trailer's 7K rating. Given all that it appears the cracks may have been a quality issue. One thing to also remember if you have a tire go flat while towing and you do not realize it for a while or decide to drive with one tire flat that puts more stress on the remaining tire on the side where the flat is located. The will decrease that tires life. I have spoken with at least a few AACA members who had a flat on a trip and then had a second flat on the tire that had been stressed sometimes on the SAME TRIP or within a few weeks or months afterward. This is one reason why I carry TWO spare tires in my trailer. Another thing to keep in mind. Just because you bought your tires on 06/15 that does not mean those tires were manufactured recently. Some tire retailers or wholesalers have to buy tires in such quantities that it takes them MONTHS of even YEARS to sell their stock. That is why when I am shopping for tires I check the date codes on tires I am buying. I also tell the tire retailer that I WILL NOT ACCEPT tires that are older than 3 months old based on their manufacturing code date. When I was shopping for trailer tires the last time I found out that the tires I was thinking of buying had a code date over a YEAR OLD. I did not buy those tires. instead I found the same tire with a code date of only ONE MONTH before I purchased them. Given how long it took for these tires to be shipped from overseas these tires (Maxxis) were brand new. BTW, I agree with others here that you should seriously consider a higher load rated tire. Tires with a "D" or "E" rating have higher inflation pressures and speed ratings. One thing you will have to keep in mind is that the clearance between the tire and the fender well on your trailer may limit you as to what tire size and load rating you can use since not all size trailer tires comes in all the different load ratings. I also noticed in some of the photos you posted that you hve rust on the outside of your wheels. I recommend that you have the inside of your wheels checked for rust. If the beading of the tire is not sealing properly on the steel wheel due to rust or old tire residue that could be a source of air leaks. Charlie 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimy Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 Many excellent thoughts here to which I'll add more: * level out an EMPTY trailer (i.e., no rear sag on tow vehicle). This may mean a different drawbar or changing the ball height. * level out the LOADED trailer by positioning/repositioning the load, but you want about 10-12% tongue weight on the ball. These two measures will keep your trailer tires more evenly loaded. * get a $20 infrared no-touch thermometer at Harbor Freight and at EACH stop (fuel, restroom, meals) check each hub, sidewall, and tread (takes all of one minute). You're looking for a temp 20*F higher than on the other trailer tires, which indicates a soon-to-be-problem. If so check all tire pressures as a minimum, and consider a preemptive change of the offending wheel. After one such preemptive change, while I was rolling the bad wheel to the bed of my pickup, the wheel wobbled, indicating that the tread had shifted on the tire carcass. * run trailer tires at the max pressure on the sidewall *IF* the trailer is loaded. For an empty open trailer, you'll get a much better ride and less axle jump at 35 psi. * I strongly recommend carrying TWO spare tires and wheels. I have seen, but not experienced, a blowout on one trailer tire taking out the adjoining tire on the same side. * Some folks run fast, but I will not tow a car hauler above 65 mph. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Street Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 (edited) 2 hours ago, real61ss said: Robert, I think she has open trailer, tongue weight isn't what you think, 4 or 5 feet of the car was probably hanging off the rear. At the time I asked that question I had not seen the trailer nor tow truck photos. Yep I'll betcha much of that 55 was overhang! Several others have observed what I did in the photos so she will be allright once she gets a good tow rig and trailer setup. I totally see why she had front tire issues. Robert Edited January 29, 2018 by Robert Street (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 (edited) VL2 If you have never seen or used a equilizer hitch this is what they look like. They cost between $250 and $600 I used one on our 2 horse/extended dressing room trailer. I used it for sway more than to equalize the load as we had what we call a "weaver" - a horse that weved side to side when it got nervous in the trailer. He would make the trailer sway. You said you didn't have sway on the earlier trips so I would try the leveling the trailer before buying one of these. Also I read what Ed said and partically agree with him 15 inch tires may not be the best BUT your truck is rated for at least 6500 lbs. If you keep the speed down - I would not be doing 70 and only 65 on flat ground - I would think with a better balanced load you would be fine. Anytime you haul a load a problem can occur the longer the tow vechicle the better the ride and pulling experience. The bigger the tires the same thing applies - usually but not if the load is unbalanced. Buy good 10 ply higher rated (D rated or better) tires, drive reasonabily, balance the load, tell your 4 legged riding buddy to be alert (pay attention to him) check the tires for air pressure and heat regually and have a good trip. Let all us old guys know how it goes. Dave S Edited January 29, 2018 by SC38DLS (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
39BuickEight Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 (edited) 3 hours ago, Rusty_OToole said: I know photo angles are tricky but it appears your rig is riding with the back of the tow vehicle and front of the trailer low. The trailer must ride level with weight evenly distributed. Excess weight on the front tires could cause them to fail. From your description it sounds like the tires just went flat and you replaced them. No thrown belts, blowout, holes etc. This could just be bad luck. Agreed, in the pic the rear trailer tire is much farther from the fender than the front, indicating an excess load on the front tires on the trailer, as well as the leaf springs not working as designed. Like you said, photos can be tricky though. I'm still not clear on the overall question of whether the tires actually failed or if they just keep losing air. Those are 2 completely different scenarios with 2 different solutions. Sorry if I missed that part of the discussion. Edited January 29, 2018 by 39BuickEight (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCHinson Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 5 hours ago, victorialynn2 said: I’m getting 4 Goodyear Endurance tires. Load range D. We recently had an AACA Member who is an Independent Tire Dealer do a seminar on trailer tires at the NC Region Annual Meeting. Load Range D is not enough. You are probably going to continue to have tire problems. You should be looking for Load Range E or if possible, Load Range F. He suggested Hercules Tires Power STR Radial Trailer tires as his best trailer tire recommendation. You also need to give serious consideration to the other suggestions given, such as a weight distributing hitch. For long distance towing, a larger tow vehicle would be a really good idea. Just because you can tow with a particular vehicle does not mean it is a good idea. I have done some towing over the years with a vehicle that was of marginal capacity. Using the right vehicle/trailer combination certainly is more comfortable and safer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Street Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 4 minutes ago, MCHinson said: We recently had an AACA Member who is an Independent Tire Dealer do a seminar on trailer tires at the NC Region Annual Meeting. Load Range D is not enough. You are probably going to continue to have tire problems. You should be looking for Load Range E or if possible, Load Range F. He suggested Hercules Tires Power STR Radial Trailer tires as his best trailer tire recommendation. You also need to give serious consideration to the other suggestions given, such as a weight distributing hitch. For long distance towing, a larger tow vehicle would be a really good idea. Just because you can tow with a particular vehicle does not mean it is a good idea. I have done some towing over the years with a vehicle that was of marginal capacity. Using the right vehicle/trailer combination certainly is more comfortable and safer. Some good suggestions if one gets serious about towing stuff Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 29, 2018 Author Share Posted January 29, 2018 Tires were under at 35 psi. Trailer always looks funky in drive. Will send pic on flat level. Thanks everone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimy Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 That's a much more reassuring photo, but if it were mine, I'd raise the ball by one inch, maybe two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 29, 2018 Author Share Posted January 29, 2018 17 minutes ago, Grimy said: That's a much more reassuring photo, but if it were mine, I'd raise the ball by one inch, maybe two. I realized I grabbed the wrong hitch. It’s lower than what I usually use. ?♀️ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
intimeold Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 14 minutes ago, Grimy said: That's a much more reassuring photo, but if it were mine, I'd raise the ball by one inch, maybe two. Grimy, I agree with you that the height of the ball is about 2" too low; but as I look at the pic on the level, I see the rear of the truck as being 2" too low. Same level/height observation; but a different procedure to get there. Just focus on the truck; and not any thing behind the truck's rear bumper. The truck is sagging about 2" at the rear. I had the same problem with my truck; the same truck as Victoria's. The load helper that I chose, fixed the problem; without affecting unloaded height. I will post it again here for those who did not read all the posts. I chose http://timbren.com/ Other systems are available to fix that sag. She needs something . The Tundra is plenty of truck, with 401 ft. lbs of torque, it just need a little help in the suspension for towing. I tow a little more that the load she has on with no problems. Plenty of brake too. intimeold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
intimeold Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 (edited) 11 minutes ago, victorialynn2 said: I realized I grabbed the wrong hitch. It’s lower than what I usually use. ?♀️ The truck is sagging 2" at the rear; moving just the ball up won't fix that. Get your truck level then adjust the ball if needed. Start at the front and work your way back. truck - hitch - trailer - load, don't try to fix it starting in the middle intimeold Edited January 30, 2018 by intimeold (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimy Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 I agree with you, intimeold, and am not familiar with the Tundra's suspension. Don't know what the weight was in the truck bed, or how loaded. VL2, you do know to stow the heavy stuff as far forward as possible, right? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 30, 2018 Author Share Posted January 30, 2018 Yes. Probably too heavy back there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
intimeold Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 (edited) 13 minutes ago, Grimy said: I agree with you, intimeold, and am not familiar with the Tundra's suspension. Don't know what the weight was in the truck bed, or how loaded. VL2, you do know to stow the heavy stuff as far forward as possible, right? Yes Grimy , the truck, just a little soft in the rear suspension. I knew I had to fix mine, and had many choices regarding, price, time installed/work, modifying whatever; and I chose something that didn't alter the normal ride height, and resonable price. You are correct, that 2" means a lot when going down the road. The last truck I had, I chose to have the rear springs built at a $$$$$, but that also added a higher ride height. They build trucks today for comfort and not really max towing. I don't want to increase the rear ride height because I load motorcycles all the time. Every inch of unloaded height adds more work when loading on a ramp. Edited January 30, 2018 by intimeold (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Street Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 A properly adjusted Equalizer brand hitch bar system will take care of everything and not affect the stock ride when not towing. Also will allow the trailer to stay level when loaded with that vehicle. Robert 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 An equalizer hitch will also prevent sway 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 2 hours ago, victorialynn2 said: Tires were under at 35 psi. Trailer always looks funky in drive. Will send pic on flat level. Thanks everone! Is the truck bed tilted towards the back? Is that normal or am I seeing something? It is not on the same line as the bottom of the windows in the truck. I would think it would be straight back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 30, 2018 Author Share Posted January 30, 2018 I think I’ve over shared and worried some of you too much. I forget how invested some of you are. It is unintentional and I’m sorry. Please know that I am 100% confident in my truck and trailer and am positive I’m operating well below their capacity. I am making mistakes for sure and I appreciate every post. None go on deaf ears. I ask questions here to learn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 30, 2018 Author Share Posted January 30, 2018 38 minutes ago, Larry Schramm said: Is the truck bed tilted towards the back? Is that normal or am I seeing something? It is not on the same line as the bottom of the windows in the truck. I would think it would be straight back. I believe an optical illusion from the tonneau cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 30, 2018 Author Share Posted January 30, 2018 I believe the new tires are helping. Mpg went from 10 to over 14. Regular is 15-17 unloaded with the big 5.7L V8. I will I’ll check the truck in the morning. I think the remaining issue is poor weight distribution in the bed. I will see what I can do in the light. I may disconnect the trailer to check if the truck still sags. I have heavy duty builstein shocks back there. Thanks for all the the great feedback everyone. Time for some shut eye! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobg1951chevy Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 13 hours ago, victorialynn2 said: I have a tow package with beefed up suspension on my TRD Pro. The hauler is all metal, heavy duty and I went through all the weight numbers with multiple people, including the place I have the trailer serviced and bought the tires. It should be up for the job. It handles perfect behind the Tundra. I can even go through a drive through with it. It is a 2001 RTS car hauler and these are not heavy cars. I have had it rewired and the bearings packed twice and new tires purchased in 6/15. I will dig up the specs on the trailer. I have NEVER had sway or bouncing issues even when I haul a 20 foot RV. This set up towes great except the tire issues. The first tire completely failed with no evidence of puncture and this one just deflated with no evidence of puncture? ?♀️ We see no evidence why it failed. I had just had the tires checked by the selling dealer when the bearings were done. Maybe they didn’t actually check the pressure even though they said they did? I am religious about maintenance on the truck and trailer. I even use synthetic oil in the truck and change it every 5 k. I always get both checked over before each trip. The one one thing may be speed, although why they sell tires in Texas that are rated 60 MPH, I don’t know. I typically go about 70 MPH when the limit allows. I don’t see any trailers go 60 MPH in states with 75-85 MPH limits that are not overloaded. Both failures happened immediately after having bearings packed and trailer inspected by the same shop and requested tire pressure checked. The first time they installed the tires new. V.L., Here is where we disagree. To tow anything behind your vehicle, at speeds above 55 or 60, is a hazard to you, and to anyone who is in your area of influence. Just this past summer, a smart ass guy, who was driving a U HAUL Truck, with a loaded UHAUL Trailer, decided I was going too slow, at my 60 mph. He passed me on the right, at 70 mph or above, cut back in front of me, blew out a trailer tire, hit and seriously wrecked himself, his trailer, his car on the trailer ..... and three other vehicles. At 60 MPH, I zigged and zagged to avoid all the carnage and fortunately I did. I was in court, as a witness for the prosecution. Drive defensively V.L., drive 55 to 60, with trailer in tow. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobg1951chevy Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 3 hours ago, Grimy said: That's a much more reassuring photo, but if it were mine, I'd raise the ball by one inch, maybe two. Nothing reassuring in that photo to me. Rear of Tundra is low, front of trailer is low ....... more weight load is being placed on the front axle tires of the trailer. A distribution hitch is needed to drive safely. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stude Light Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 VL, If you ever consider an upgrade to your hitch in the future, I bought this Equal-i-zer hitch and really like how well it performs for both load leveling and trailer sway. Although my trailer is a 10,000# enclosed, I went with a bit more safety margin on the hitch. Money well spent. You could get away with a lower rated one (10K#) and save some money. https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Equal-i-zer/EQ37140ET.html 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe in Canada Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 I was in Olney Texas about 10 years ago where I bought a 1950 Chevy panel that was modified but not finished. Mike Gray that had the Delphi part store on West Main back then and he has passed and the shop was closed an sold. I always bought parts or vehicles from Mike. That was the first time I had load levelers on my truck a 2500 GMC and the last time. I did a U turn there being a not to busy of a road when I thought I heard a gun shot. It scared the H##>>^^ out of the wife and me. They do not have storm sewers but a lower elevation along the edge of the road. When I hit that one of the chain hooks broke on the load leveler from the extra weight from the dip in the curb. So much for load levellers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 Any time you bring up trailer tires and tow vehicles you will get all kinds of opinions. Load range is primarily a function of inflation pressure and the max pressure is a function of tire construction. LRC is 50 psi, LRD is 65 psi and LRE is 80 psi. Can run a LRE tire at 65 psi and it will have the same load capacity as a LRD. I always look for a nylon cap or overlay in a trailer tire to keep the treads from shifting. It shows up as an extra ply in the tread. ST tires have a 65mph limit. Some allow an extra 5 mph if inflated another 5psi The most dangerous thing is to run underinflated, it allows heat to build up and tires fail more if hot. My Jeep's rear only drops about 3/4" with a 460 lb tongue load (class III frame mount receiver). I do not need or use an equalizing hitch because I do not want to add more load to the trailer axle. It is essentially a torque device and works best on flat ground. I have a set of air lifts but have never needed them. A good TPMS on each trailer tire with individual readout set to alarm for under pressure or over temp. Keep in mind that most trailer axles do not have shocks and you will not feel vibration in the TV. Always have trailer tires spun balanced after mounting. Just some thought from A Lot of trailer towing. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 30, 2018 Author Share Posted January 30, 2018 With all the feedback you guys have given me, I can just imagine what my father would be saying. Lol. I’m sure he’d have even more critique. He was, after all, a professional. Everyone, please keep in mind I was thrown into trailering in a panic to keep a roof over my father’s head in nursing care when I was told by the Va that he needed more care than he could get at home. I had limited time and budget (That’s why I sleep in my truck at truck stops - and to watch the cars), and I did the best I could with what I had. I knew nothing except I had to come up with 5k+ a month for his care, and I had to do it immediately. The only way was to sell his cars and I couldn’t do it from Texas by myself and I knew no one there. Even when I met people, he lives in the boonies and I couldn’t hire help at $100 an hour. No joke. It’s impossible for everyone there to hire good help. I fly people there from Oregon to help me all the time. I am at the end of this journey. I just want to get home safe and keep everyone around me on the road safe. I plan to retire my #oldcarprincess life of towing cars with this car or possibly one more. If I tow again, I will use a distribution hitch but I didn’t know how important it was before. It’s a good thing you all don’t know all the mistakes I’ve made. Ignorance is bliss. I was in a panic to care for my father and used the best info I had available. I was in shock for a couple years just dealing with everything going on. I did my best and my father is well cared for. Luckily I’ve had a guardian angel. I am learning as I go and boy have I learned. One example: Remember when I couldn’t back the trailer up AT ALL? I can now confidentially. As for the flats, I caught both before the tires deflated. I continually check the load and tires in the mirrors. Ideally I’d have a dually and a better trailer set up. I had the heavy cars (Skyliner, Rampside) towed professionally. The big Lincoln was just sold in Texas. I knew I didn’t have the right equipment for them. I am grateful I have been able to accomplish what I have. I was always told, by people I trust, that I am within safe parameters. Some info is better than others and definitely there is room for improvement, but I’d never intentionally put myself or anyone else in danger for any reason. All that being said, I think my quest for advice has turned into a panic session. So... I will let you all know when I get home safe. My goal is Thursday and trust in the meantime I have good people advising me privately and I will take care to keep safe and keep those around me safe. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 victoria I don't think anyone is criticizing you. It is possible the tire failures were a warning that the tires were overloaded due to the trailer not being hooked up perfectly. We don't want tires to blow out on the road, or other accidents. We want you to be safe. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 30, 2018 Author Share Posted January 30, 2018 3 hours ago, Rusty_OToole said: We don't want tires to blow out on the road, or other accidents. We want you to be safe. Yes Sir, I understand. Just a lot of different ideas being thrown around that are hard to follow while on the road. When I ask for advice, I get it in spades here. That is a good thing. Just don’t want to create a panic if I am quiet for a while. Certainly don’t want anyone to worry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 VL2. Bob Marley said it best “have fun, don’t worry”. You’ve done your pops proud and we older guys can only hope we have someone as caring as you are. Be safe, enjoy the adventure and let us know how it went. Dave S 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCHinson Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 17 hours ago, Larry Schramm said: Is the truck bed tilted towards the back? Is that normal or am I seeing something? It is not on the same line as the bottom of the windows in the truck. I would think it would be straight back. It just looks that way because the rear of the truck is too low. In looking at other trucks of that model online, it is clear that the bottom of the window line slopes upward toward the rear of the truck. The bed appears to be tilted downward because the truck is significantly lower in the rear due to the trailer load. It appears to have too much weight on the truck's rear axle. Perhaps moving the towed vehicle rearward a bit might help balance the load better to eliminate the truck sagging so much. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 With the things I did in my yout am surprised I lived this long. Back in the '70s I moved from Indiana to Texas. Had a station wagon with a bolt on trailer hitch and a tandem dropped axle car hauler. Trailer had four good used car tires but were at least all the same size. Had 10 psi (usually had 5psi when pulling a race car) in the air lifts in the back to get the rear of the wagon off the stops. Put down a bed and had heavys in front and lighter in back. After a block the dropped axles bent and the tires were hitting the frame. Jacked up (took two hydraulic jacks and my father in law welded in some slide plates to keep the tires upright. Applied axle grease every 100 miles to reduce squeaking but made it to Texas (at 50 mph max partly to keep the coolant under 200F, still drive on the temp gauge). And then there was the time I was pulling an A/SR at a good clip on an Interstate and the trailer tongue broke off. Chains held but was exciting for a bit. We know a lot more now and just trying to keep you from making the same (often expensive) mistakes we did. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlier Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 (edited) 6 hours ago, MCHinson said: It just looks that way because the rear of the truck is too low. In looking at other trucks of that model online, it is clear that the bottom of the window line slopes upward toward the rear of the truck. The bed appears to be tilted downward because the truck is significantly lower in the rear due to the trailer load. It appears to have too much weight on the truck's rear axle. Perhaps moving the towed vehicle rearward a bit might help balance the load better to eliminate the truck sagging so much. Give the man a Gold Star..^^^ Yes the bottom of the window does slope upward. BTW, given what VL posted in another thread I suspect that there are parts in the bed of her Tundra as well which is additional weight on the rear axle which also contributes to what the photo appears to show. Personally I think that the combination of the weight in the bed of the truck along with the front weight bias of the Jeepster (anyone else notice the difference in the clearance between the front and rear trailer tires and the trailers wheel wells?) on the trailer and a hitch ball height that appears lower than optimal all contribute to what the photo appears to show. As VL has posted this has been a positive learning experience for her (and hopefully others as well). I have been towing for 12 + years, 6+ of which has been with my Tundra. When I was shopping for a truck to tow with I did extensive research and number crunching. When it comes towing SAFELY, it is all about the numbers for me. Not exceeding the various weight ratings for the tow vehicle & trailer and building in a Safety Factor when it comes to weights (ie being UNDER the various weight ratings). Does the Tundra work for me with the trailer and vehicles I tow, Yes. Would it work for a bigger trailer or heavier vehicles to tow, No. Now onto some FACTS regarding the Tundra’s Towing Capabilities. Many factors determine the various weight ratings for the Tundra (and other trucks as well) when towing. The Tundra’s model code, engine size, 2WD vs 4WD, bed size, whether or not it has the factory tow package (which includes a Class IV receiver hitch among other things), the 4.30 gear ratio in the rear axle and it’s payload capacity all determine the various weight ratings. Also, when I purchased my Tundra (and for a few years afterward) it had the Largest brakes in the ½ ton truck class. Larger than Ford or GM or Dodge. The following are real world loads and weights based on Cat Scale weights along with Toyota’s published weight ratings which meet the J2807 Towing Standards. These numbers tell a story that may surprise some here. When I tow the heaviest of my vehicles to an AACA event, that vehicle along with everything else in my trailer adds up to less than my trailer’s 7,000 lb weight rating (82% of 7K). The actual weight of the loaded trailer is 59 % of Toyota’s published Gross Trailer Weight Rating. So that is well under Toyota's GTWR. When it comes to the Gross Combined Weight Rating of the Tundra and my attached Trailer it is 79% of Toyota’s published GCWR. That means it is 21% UNDER the GCWR. It is hard to tell from the photo I posted but I am using a Reese Weight Distributing Hitch with Dual Cam Sway Control. As you can see in the photo, it is doing the job that it is designed to do. It also makes for a very steady and controlled ride even when I have towed in 30-40 mph cross winds. For me and a lot of others here towing is all about being SAFE. In order to do that one has to know ALL the numbers for one’s tow vehicle, loaded trailer and the published weight ratings for their tow vehicle. Over the last few years I have notice more Tundras towing trailers at AACA meets. Hopefully those Tundra owners have done their due diligence and crunched the numbers as well. FYI, as it turns out VL’s Tundra is the exact same model code, engine, bed size, rear axle, tow package, etc as my Tundra so it has the same weight ratings as mine. Given the weight of her trailer and Jeepster it would appear that when it comes to the various weight ratings she is closer to 50% of Toyota’s published rating numbers. While that does not make up for the forward bias of the trailer or hitch ball height that is less than optimal being that far UNDER the weight ratings is a big positive. BTW, if my schedule permits, I hope to attend the AACA Annual Meeting coming up in Philadelphia in a few weeks. One very interesting item on the agenda for me is the “Trailering Roundtable”. That looks to be an informative discussion on an interesting topic. Hope to see a few of you there. Charlie Edited January 30, 2018 by charlier Corrected stated % of GTWR in post due to math error. (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe in Canada Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 What kind of weight is a Tundra rated to haul or anyone know what the tongue rating is. Is it overloaded possibly how it sits. I feel the light trucks have become more of a every day family use rating rather than work related. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlier Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 45 minutes ago, Joe in Canada said: What kind of weight is a Tundra rated to haul or anyone know what the tongue rating is. Is it overloaded possibly how it sits. I feel the light trucks have become more of a every day family use rating rather than work related. Be advised that I corrected a math error in my prior post above. By mistake I used the rated weight of my trailer (7K) in one of my calculations instead of the trailer's actual weight when I computed the percentage of GTWR published by Toyota. That changed the percentage number in the post. Per Toyota's published specs for the Tundra the answers to your question can vary based on all the criteria I mention in my prior post. For Example: - Max Tongue Weight for the V8 engine (with Tow Package) ranges from 900 lbs to 1,040 lbs depending on the criteria I mention in my prior post. - Max Towing Capacity for the V8 engine (with Tow Package) ranges 9,800 lbs to 10,500 lbs depending on the criteria I mention in my prior post. - Gross Combined Weight Rating (with Tow Package) ranges from 15,300 lbs to 16,000 lbs depending on the criteria I mention in my prior post. - Payload Weight Rating ranges from 1,445 lbs to 2,080 lbs depending on the criteria I mention in my prior post. When I first weighed the tongue of my loaded trailer the tongue weight as a percentage of the loaded trailer was 14%. After I moved the car back a few inches and relocated my spare tires (2), and some tools to the rear of the trailer then the tongue weight as a percentage of the loaded trailer dropped to 11%. FYI, in my particular case, the actual, measured, tongue weight for my loaded trailer is about 71% of my Tundra's Max Tongue Weight rating as published by Toyota. Charlie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 31, 2018 Author Share Posted January 31, 2018 (edited) Guys I don’t have time to read through everything this am but everythis is great now! I was having significant air loss in the new tires after 50-100 miles. I moved the Jeepster back 4-5 inched this am. It’s the same as the last flat. The back tires can’t be over the rear axel. No sway, no air loss, truck isn’t being drug down by trailer any longer. Made it over the grapevine slowly but with no issues. Gotta go, will catch up later. Thanks for all the info! Edited January 31, 2018 by victorialynn2 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 31, 2018 Author Share Posted January 31, 2018 5 hours ago, mike6024 said: The grapevine is between Texas and Oregon? Southern California. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 31, 2018 Author Share Posted January 31, 2018 (edited) Hey guys, turns out the Tundra has an automatic trailer sway control feature. It automatically breaks individual tires on the trailer, lowers the engine tourque and turns on the trailer brake lights to alert people behind you. I still plan on getting a hitch as I wouldn’t only count on that, but this could explain why I’ve never felt any problems with my car hauler. There was once or twice I could have swore my truck slowed down on its own though. Toyota doesn’t recommend the hitch also. See, I wasn’t foolin! I didn’t even know it had this! http://www.serratoyota.com/blog/understanding-trailer-sway-control-tsc/ To elaborate on yesterday... I unhitched the truck from the car hauler to see that there were no issues with the bed load affecting the Tundra. The car hauler was pulling the back of the truck down some, so that is another reason I moved the Jeepster back when I could round up some guys to help and found a level parking lot. Also, I may monitored the air pressure every 50-100 miles most of the day yesterday. I lost 30 lbs of the 65 in one of my trailer tires in 100 miles from the weight of the Jeepster sitting directly over the tire. I was getting air pressure loss of over 15lbs on at least two trailer tires and some loss in the rear Truck tires at every stop. It immediately stopped when I moved the Jeepster behind the rear axel. This could also explain why my flat tires deflated and didn’t explode. ***Note: That was supposed to say Toyota Does recommend the hitch also! Edited February 1, 2018 by victorialynn2 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dep5 Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 On Monday, January 29, 2018 at 10:08 PM, bobg1951chevy said: Excerpt: He passed me on the right, at 70 mph or above Seriously? Why were you cruising in the left lane? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimy Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 3 hours ago, victorialynn2 said: I lost 30 lbs of the 65 in one of my trailer tires in 100 miles from the weight of the Jeepster sitting directly over the tire You should have METAL stems on trailer wheels. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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