HELP Tune-up problems

[billbuickgs]

Its been many years since Ive owned a Buick with a nailhead

and the distributor in the rear of the engine.

I bought a tune-up kit and just realized I'm much older then

the last time I did this and can't reach the distributor standing

next to the 55 Buick.

I need to be in the engine compartment, but with a recent knee

replacement , I'm stuck !!!!

For the next couple of weeks , it looks as if my projects will be limited

to things that I can do seated or standing next to the 55.

Oh well Life's a "BEACH" sometimes .

Anyone else have this problem ?

Bill

Edited November 28, 2015 by billbuickgs (see edit history)

[Smartin]

I've had a knee issue for a few years now, and it is a chore to work over the fenders of these cars.  Hyper-extending my left knee for any extended period of time sucks.

[JohnD1956]

Chalk up another one with this type of experience. When your knee is better, it may help to put a padded 2x4 across the fenders to help balance your body.

[Bill Stoneberg]

Me too, I can get to the distributor on my 64Riviera but was looking at the 60 Electra I am not sure what I am going to do. It's almost under the firewall. I thought about hooking the engine hoist to my belt, but my wife would not push me over the car

[JamesBulldogMiller55Buick]

I stand on an inverted old fashioned steel crate for milk bottles. 

Only the old steel crates will do. The newer plastic type are too slick...

Don't ask how I know ....

[Aaron65]

Me too, I can get to the distributor on my 64Riviera but was looking at the 60 Electra I am not sure what I am going to do. It's almost under the firewall. I thought about hooking the engine hoist to my belt, but my wife would not push me over the car

 

I hope I'm not the only one laughing at this image.  

[Bill Stoneberg]

Engine hoists can be used for much more then engines. we have made a Bar B Que pit out of oilfield pipe and hoisted the pipe with my stand. Also, when I was baby sitting, I could work in the garage with the kid in her bouncy seat.

[old-tank]

Let the air out of the front tires.  And if that is not enough  put some 3/4" plywood on 4 paint cans.  Don't even think of changing/adjusting points with the distributor in the car.

[Bhigdog]

Or..........When you finally can get around to it put a Pertronix unit in it and kiss goodbye to the problem................Bob

[60FlatTop]

I still have the birth control box out in the garage and it's just the right height. I know there were a lot of different methods, but the box is great. I got it from a friend who stopped using it.

 

He said it was the box and saucer method. They liked to do it standing up. So he stood on the box and when his eyes got as big as saucers she kicked the box out from under him.

 

I can reach the '60 Buick distributor easily with it. I'll see if I can get a picture of me using it later today. It's in pretty good shape and hasn't been kicked around a lot since I got it.

Bernie

[Airy Cat]

I converted to Pertronix years ago when I was a lot younger and I never have to work on the distributor again.

[billbuickgs]

Thanks for all the ideas.

Being old and having tunnel vision, I will

go with the points and condenser this time.

Pertronix seems to be the best way to solve

many problems including back problems etc etc

Bill

[buick5563]

Buy this:

[bhclark]

or this.

[avgwarhawk]

or this.

s-l1000.jpg

 

This is a nice item to have. 

 

I usually engine surf to the distributor.  Not fun....

[buick man]

Oh no …."  Honey I leaned over and I can't straighten up "  …. or Tie a 3 - foot long 2x4 ( man brace ) across your backside just above the rear pockets and snug it up real tight then, put a  6 inch thick x 3' x 3' foam pad placed over the engine with the air cleaner removed and a old smelly sock stuck into the top of the carburetor. ( very important );  Then slide that large box from out of the corner of the shop and up against the front bumper.  Then slide your set of wheel ramps up against the other side of the box.  Take your time going up the ramp.  Some folks find it useful and usually like to take a hiking stick with them for the assent to the top of the box.  Once scaled the engine bay is now your oyster and the foam pad is there for you to just lay on top as you please on your stomach allowing you to just take your time to get it right.  So there you have it.  …. Oh the 2x4 right.  It is there so when your done or just need to get that set of points you left on the work bench on the other side of the shop, you can just yell out and someone will have something in which to easily get a good grip on to heave you up and out of the engine bay.  Some folks find if they tie a rope onto the 2x4 first this allows them a backup system of propulsion just in case grabbing directly onto the 2x4 does not offer sufficient pull to make you air borne.  Still others, use the rope and rig it up to the overhead winch system attached to the roof rafters before the overall climb.  That way removing yourself from the engine bay can be accomplished as 1-man job.   Repeat this procedure as many times as it take to finish the project, giving you peace of mind and assurance that your 2x4 man brace will save you in case any times of peril should arise.  

Edited December 9, 2015 by buick man (see edit history)

[Barney Eaton]

^{I once had a similar problem while working on a 60's pick-up}

^{I had a 2 x 12 long enough to go from fender to fender,  wrapped the ends in old T-shirts, bridged it across the fenders, and with the help of a step stool, I could get on the 2 x 12  on my stomach and do the required work.}

[NTX5467]

Well . . . it's not just "old folks" that have issues with those rear-of-the-engine distributors!  Leaning over the front fender of our 1969 Chevy pickup (like back in the early 1970s!) was something I needed something to stand on to even get back there, back then (spark plugs were another "over the fender" operation!!).  I remember seeing an earlier print ad for that "roll-up stand", relating to diesel engine work, and thought that was a pretty neat idea, back then.  Only thing is, y'all leaner operatives might need to lay on a thick pillow to see what some might be dealing with without that additional pillow.  Better than balancing on a "step assist" with that fender getting friendly with your bellybutton.

 

Letting the air out of the tires can help, but then you'll have to replace it by some means when done.  Removing the distributor really IS the best way, as then you can look at everything in "good light" and up close.  But then you'll need to get the distributor drive gear and oil pump drive re-indexed to where they were before you took the distributor out.  STILL leaning over the fender!  Watch our for belt buckle, pocket rivets, or latch-button imprints!!!

 

Back then, I remember some of the lankier mechanics would put the fender cover on the fender and proceed to lay on top of the fender so they could get to the distributor back there.  Being leaner and in uniform pants, no belt buckles or jeans' pocket rivets to worry about . . . gettin' "up close and personal" back then.  Worked better on cars than pickups, though.

 

IF that distributor's got the Allen wrench adjustment, DON'T drop that Allen wrench!!!

 

NTX5467

[billbuickgs]

Well, I can see that I'm not alone with this problem and maybe taking some of the ideas and

putting them together might work . Not ready to climb in the engine compartment yet but soon !

I also pick up a 3x2 manifold to install , for show not for power. Also I have the 56 right and left

exhaust manifolds to install. Having a left head pipe made to fit and cutting the holes in the framerails

will be tricky and I hope not too expensive. Its crazy what we will do for our hobby.

My second car was a 56 Special 2 dr sedan that I did the exhaust treatment along with

a 4 barrel carb. That was a 322 and the switch-pitch would fry the tires .

I'll get some pictures of the 55 soon,

Bill

[avgwarhawk]

Well . . . it's not just "old folks" that have issues with those rear-of-the-engine distributors!  Leaning over the front fender of our 1969 Chevy pickup (like back in the early 1970s!) was something I needed something to stand on to even get back there, back then (spark plugs were another "over the fender" operation!!).  I remember seeing an earlier print ad for that "roll-up stand", relating to diesel engine work, and thought that was a pretty neat idea, back then.  Only thing is, y'all leaner operatives might need to lay on a thick pillow to see what some might be dealing with without that additional pillow.  Better than balancing on a "step assist" with that fender getting friendly with your bellybutton.

 

Letting the air out of the tires can help, but then you'll have to replace it by some means when done.  Removing the distributor really IS the best way, as then you can look at everything in "good light" and up close.  But then you'll need to get the distributor drive gear and oil pump drive re-indexed to where they were before you took the distributor out.  STILL leaning over the fender!  Watch our for belt buckle, pocket rivets, or latch-button imprints!!!

 

Back then, I remember some of the lankier mechanics would put the fender cover on the fender and proceed to lay on top of the fender so they could get to the distributor back there.  Being leaner and in uniform pants, no belt buckles or jeans' pocket rivets to worry about . . . gettin' "up close and personal" back then.  Worked better on cars than pickups, though.

 

IF that distributor's got the Allen wrench adjustment, DON'T drop that Allen wrench!!!

 

NTX5467

 

 

The Allen wrench adjustment and associated door in the side of the distributor cap was genius.  I did many road side adjustments on my 73 Buick Estate wagon with that Allen key! 

Edited December 10, 2015 by avgwarhawk (see edit history)