What's the Best/Stongest 6 Volt Battery on the Market?

[Dan O]

I have been using a Continental 6 volt battery in my 1949 Buick Roadmaster and it has very little cranking power.  My car sits for weeks sometimes and is hard to get to fire up so I often have to crank it a lot to get her fired up.  I may try turning it over six times (15 "revolutions" per try?) and the battery is then kaput even right after having it fully charged at the shop that sold it to me.  It's a new battery but I think it's just a lousy brand.  This is the second Continental I've had.

 

So, while I'm not looking for help getting it started more easily, I am looking for opinions on what brand of 6 volt battery out there is the best and where they can be bought.  I am not too concerned about authentic appearance as long as it is the long 19" battery and does not poop out.

[trickydicky43richard]

G' Day Dan o,

I had the same trouble with my 39 Chrysler, a battery shop recommended a 6 volt truck battery which had 900 CCA. This is a lot more than the usual cranking amps of the average 6v battery of about 750 CCA.

But dont forget to check that your starter is in good order and that all your battery leads are thick and heavy enough with good connections.

R

[Dynaflash8]

Originally your car used a 2E 6-volt battery which is still available.  However, there is a commercial version that is much stronger and more durable.  You can buy it from NAPA or other battery outlets, but they don't know it fits your car by their books.  I switched several years ago.  It is a 3EH and has 875 CCA.

 

This information doesn't apply to the 1939 Chrysler which used a square battery I believe.  All of the Buick 2E batters are long and skinny.

 

The 12V long, skinny batteries you can buy are pitiful.  When I had my 53 Oldsmobile I could not find a decent sized battery anywhere.  The 12V only had something like 675 CCA and I never found a commercial version.  The car turned over in the morning like it had an almost dead battery.  Hot, it turned over pretty good.  Hope this helps.

[Aaron65]

I'm not sure of the number, but last year I replaced the battery in my '53 with an Interstate with more CCA than the last one.  It starts it up pretty nicely.  I paid about $130 for it.

[old-tank]

No battery can do what you expect:  fill a dry carb after sitting for a long time.

6v batteries need to be charged overnight...not just 2 hours.

Install an electric fuel pump near the tank to fill the carb before starting or find a way to fill the carb with fuel.

Tractor Supply should have that battery, but I don't know the quality.

[Barney Eaton]

I too got tired of replacing that long - narrow battery about once a year.    Plus it was a pain to take out and put in with its weight.

I purchased an Optima directly from the manufacturer, on line and received it in two days.  The price was $145 including shipping...that was over 3 years ago and I am quite happy.

 

If you are wondering about the appearance (the Optima has either a bright red or yellow top)  see picture.

I found a cheap black plastic trash can at the Dollar store.    cut it to size and drilled holes in the bottom for the battery post. 

That hides the bright color.  Used a heavy duty cable tie....that was supposed to be temporary but it is still there.

[60FlatTop]

I bought a new Interstate "long" 6 volt for my '48 Packard a year and four months ago. The car sits for three to four weeks sometimes and starts good. Last time I started it was on my birthday, 9/26, I guess I better get out there today and fire it up.

 

I just bought a 1938 Allis-Chamlers B tractor that the previous owner started with a 12V. I am planning to get that back to 6 volts and I'll be starting that in the winter to scoop out the driveway. I'm going to expect the same performance a demanding farmer would have 70 years ago.

Bernie

[Green37]

I futzed with the battery on my Packard for months only to find the voltage regulator was a POS.  Got a new one and a new size 0 negative cable from tractor supply and all is running like new.  It idles, charges and runs altogether better.

Edited October 31, 2015 by Green37 (see edit history)

[60FlatTop]

Is POS an abbreviation or an acronym in this instance?

 

I was sitting in the diner one day and a service truck pulled up for the cash register. The logo read :We service POS equipment." I told the serviceman I had done a lot of that too. That's the day I learned POS stands for Point Of Sale, as well!

 

Bernie

[Dan O]

Thanks for the tips on durable batteries!  I now have some reference numbers to deal with - 3EH.  Sears does not seem to have one though I found an old number for it - DieHard 50703.  Armor Plate makes one with 925 CCV which is the highest I have seen but I have never heard of the brand; available thru Standard Batteries, Inc.  But they don't ship.

Edited October 31, 2015 by Dan O (see edit history)

[Bill Stoneberg]

I have the same issues  or I should say I did  till I replaced the cables with serious ones. double 00 I believe. Cranks like a modern car now.

 

BUT  unless you find a way to get gas to the carb and float bowl before you try and start it, you will wear the battery out even at a full charge.

 

Figure out how to fill the float bowl before cranking and you will save yourself a lot of grief. I can now pull the air cleaner off of the horn on the car, take the two screws off the carb 

 

and fill it with a turkey baster.  Starts right up and runs till gas get to it from the tank.  Worth 10 minutes of your time when wanting to drive the car.

[Bob Engle]

Put 2 6 volt Optima batteries in parallel and you will have loads of cranking amps and the batteries are sealed so there is no out gassing to corrode terminals.  Use 00 cables.

 

Bob Engle

[Rooster]

I second using an Optima battery.   I have them in both my Buicks , 6V and 12V   Plenty of cranking power.

They are fully sealed, not your typical lead acid battery.   They can be mounted in any position without any leaks.

They will also hold a charge longer than the typical lead acid battery and will not sulphate like a wet cell type.   

Also If you don't use the car for weeks / months on end, install an inline electric pump down near the fuel tank so you can prime the carb prior to starting.  Both my cars have this and they start instantly.

Edited November 2, 2015 by Rooster (see edit history)

[Grimy]

+1 to Rooster's comment. I recently loaned my 1930 Pierce-Arrow roadster (8 cyl, 366 cid) to the San Francisco Airport Museum for 5-1/2 months.  It is equipped with a pair of 6V Optimas wired in parallel, more for reserve capacity for night driving with a 25 amp generator (drops to 17 amps max after the temperature regulator kicks in) than for starting.  I have a master battery shut-off switch. The battery had not been charged during the period. The fuel had to be drained before the car entered the building.  It was returned to me by a professional transporter at 1:00 AM.  We poured three gallons into the tank. The transport driver was expecting to give me a jump and to have to prime the carb.  I turned the battery switch on, and let the electric supplemental fuel pump run for 45 seconds.  I hit the starter, which turned just as fast as it had almost six months before, and the engine started on the first revolution.  The transport driver, who frequently hauls high performance more modern cars to and from auctions, was utterly amazed.

 

The key elements are (1) be able to prime your carburetor with an electric pump before trying to start following a period of disuse, (2) use heavy cables (00 or Double Ought for a 6V system with a large engine), and (3) use a battery like the Optima which does not need charging during the period of disuse.

[Airy Cat]

I get all of my batteries from Tractor Supply.  I just bought a new one from them for my 1954 Special a 3ET.  The previous one lasted 13 years. I keep battery tenders on my cars.

[Bill Stoneberg]

It took me 4 tries to find a battery from Tractor Supply that lasted longer then 6 months.  Finally I got one.

[Dan O]

Grimy - I like the idea of the two Optima batteries in parallel.  Twice the price but more than twice the performance from what you write.  Could you send a picture of how you wired them together?  I'm curious about the actual configuration and the jumper wire itself - did you make the jumper or use something from Bob's Automobilia? Did you put the cutoff switch at the battery or in the interior?

 

I have seen some smaller vintage-look battery boxes on eBay to hide a single Optima 6-volt battery.  Perhaps I could take a 19" case and stash two optimas inside.  That would be slick.

 

I do appreciate all the tips on wire gague, booster pump, new regulator, etc.  I have read those tips on this board over the years and have made the changes but the 6-volt tractor batteries out there just don't last in Texas heat as Bill S says.  I keep wondering who I can call for a jump or a ride home everytime I go for a cruise and that uncertainty is never my idea of fun.  I go from being that cool dude in a great looking classic Buick to some loser pushing a clunker in the heat in 60 seconds flat.

[Grimy]

Dan O,

 

I'll try to attach below the photo you requested (my first attempt at attaching photos since the software change).  My installation is different from yours:  This photo is from the 1934 Pierce, which (like the 30) has the battery box under the driver's floorboard and originally took a Group 3 almost-square battery, but the attachment principles are the same.  You tie both negatives together and both positives together.  You will probably need longer square-headed battery terminal bolts.  I use 00 (Double Ought) welding cable, very flexible, purchased from a battery company which operates out of an industrial park--rather than from a pretty storefront.  They also have battery terminals and copper cable ends like you see in the photo, and will crimp them while you wait.

 

To ease the pain of buying two Optimas (check Amazon), consider that the first pair in my 1930 roadster lasted 14 years, and those in my 1934 Pierce are 8-1/2 years old.  They are zero-maintenance, more important for my applications because I have to peel back carpet and remove a floorboard plate to service or even inspect the batteries.  Caution:  Optima advises NOT to use a battery lift strap on their batteries.  They are light, and even at my advanced age :-) I can put one into place with one hand.

 

I'm generally familiar with your long battery from a 1950 Pontiac I had years ago.  Measure your available space:  each Optima is 10-1/4 inches long x 3-5/8 inches wide.   I'd be inclined to mount the batteries in line with similar posts together, so you'd have one short connecting cable and one long one.  You may well need new cables to serve the starter (+) and ground location (-). If you have the original battery cover, it will not work with two Optimas, so you'll have to get creative for retaining them in place.  If judging points are important, don't use the Optimas in your application, but if you want trouble-free starting on a driver, I recommend them wholeheartedly.

 

Whether or not you use Optimas, one way of improving cranking speed in a 6V system is to run your battery ground cable to a starter mounting bolt (to bell housing), after cleaning off paint.  Sometimes it may be necessary to accomplish this via a second battery ground cable to the starter mounting bolt from the grounded terminal of the battery, again using a longer square-headed battery terminal bolt.

 

Hope this is helpful!

[Guest LONG]

I used a NAPA 6V tractor battery when I first got the car on the road.  later converted to 12V and use the long style batt.  NAPA as well.  my engine turns over fast and starts quickly even before I added a lift pump.

 

[JamesBulldogMiller55Buick]

I was having problems with hard starting. 

In addition to a  stronger battery, getting the spark timing correct and non-ethanol fuel made the starting much easier

[Lisa watts]

On 10/31/2015 at 7:45 PM, Bill Stoneberg said:

I have the same issues  or I should say I did  till I replaced the cables with serious ones. double 00 I believe. Cranks like a modern car now.

 

BUT  unless you find a way to get gas to the carb and float bowl before you try and start it, you will wear the battery out even at a full charge.

 

Figure out how to fill the float bowl before cranking and you will save yourself a lot of grief. I can now pull the air cleaner off of the horn on the car, take the two screws off the carb 

 

and fill it with a turkey baster.  Starts right up and runs till gas get to it from the tank.  Worth 10 minutes of your time when wanting to drive the car.

U could connect a boat fuel line and bulb into the fuel line so u can pump fuel up to carb by squeezing the bulb. I’m using a boat fuel tank u til I can install a regular gas tank and it works great!

[Joseph P. Indusi]

On my 1953 Buick Special I drilled a tiny hole in the air cleaner near the carburetor throat.   The size of the hole is just big enough for me to insert the red plastic wand from a spray can of carburetor cleaner or similar.  The hole is not easy to find if I don't tell you where it is.   Never use starter fluid always use carb cleaner or similar.   Open throttle wide open by hand on linkage and give it one or two sprays of carb cleaner.   Then start the car.   May take two tries before the engine fills the carb with gasoline.

The best battery I have found is the 3-EH from Tractor Supply, 875 CCA and about $130.   I use 00 gauge cables from battery to starter and ground on block.  Gave up on those reproductions of Delco batteries from back in the day.

Joe, BCA 33493

[avgwarhawk]

I use a Duracell 3ET in my 54.   500 CCA  I do use a tender during the cold winter months.   

[60FlatTop]

My '48 Packard sat around like your car. I have had very good luck with Interstate Batteries for well over 20 years. Our local distribution center in Rochester has friendly and helpful counter people. They have a fairly new electronic load tester that seems to be more accurate than my resistance load tester. You might want to take your battery to the Houston center: https://www.interstatebatteries.com/locations/all-battery-center-houston-tx

and see what they think of it. I bought a new Interstate and it is probably still in the car. I sold it, mostly because it needed the most work of my stuff.

I thought about a 6V gellcell for my tractor but I will most likely put in an Interstate.

The absolute best plan is to drive the car a minimum of 15 miles per week.

Bernie

[Matt Harwood]

Electric fuel pump is a no-brainer on any 6V car. Yes, you can open that giant hood and hope you don't scratch anything, remove the bulky air cleaner and try not to spill any oil, and pour some gas in there, then button it all back up, get in the car, hope it starts, and that's all fine. Or you can put an in-line electric fuel pump in it, hit the switch for 20 seconds, and start the car easily. All my cars have electric pumps and they not only help with quick starts after a period of sitting, but they have the added bonus of helping to combat fuel vaporization under high-temperature situations (what a lot of people call "vapor lock" even though it's not). Install the electric pump and your car will start much faster no matter what battery you have.

 

I am a fan of the Optimas, but their shape doesn't work well in cars like our Buicks where the batteries are out in the open. Some of the suggestions above are good, but I should also note that I've been using the same long, narrow lead acid battery from Tractor Supply that came in my 1941 Limited that was there when I bought it six years ago. No idea how old it is, but it's still going strong and the car always starts within about 5 seconds, no matter how long it has been sitting.

 

Strong battery + electric fuel pump = cars that start quickly and easily

[Dynaflash8]

On 10/31/2015 at 1:26 PM, Dan O said:

Thanks for the tips on durable batteries!  I now have some reference numbers to deal with - 3EH.  Sears does not seem to have one though I found an old number for it - DieHard 50703.  Armor Plate makes one with 925 CCV which is the highest I have seen but I have never heard of the brand; available thru Standard Batteries, Inc.  But they don't ship.

I buy my batteries through Riley or O'Reilly Auto Parts.  Tractors use them and in the next town over they have a lot of farms.  It is some standard brand.  If I get time I'll to out to the garage and see if I can see them.  They last a good three years but always more than two.  Yes they have 925 CCV, and so that is why I stopped buying the old 2E that came in the car.  I have three Buicks that use them and two correct battery straps I got years ago when I was cleaning out Buick dealerships and then buy and selling NOS parts...that was back in the late sixties all of the seventies and a little while in the early eighties.  Two!!  Thank of that.  They are made of metal brackets and old tire casings that were custom cut.  They say BUICK on the casings in big yellow letters.  I've ordered in these batteries from NAPA also but haven't tried Advance and Auto Zone but I'm sure they can also get the 3EH.  Any of them will have to get them overnight.  Even Batteries Warehouse here can get that one, but claimed they couldn't get the 2E.  I doubt they know what they are talking about though since most golf carts use them, and there is noting else to do in Sebring, FL but play golf and fish off the bank or a bridge....

Edited June 24, 2019 by Dynaflash8 (see edit history)

[Dynaflash8]

On 10/31/2015 at 7:45 PM, Bill Stoneberg said:

I have the same issues  or I should say I did  till I replaced the cables with serious ones. double 00 I believe. Cranks like a modern car now.

 

BUT  unless you find a way to get gas to the carb and float bowl before you try and start it, you will wear the battery out even at a full charge.

 

Figure out how to fill the float bowl before cranking and you will save yourself a lot of grief. I can now pull the air cleaner off of the horn on the car, take the two screws off the carb 

 

and fill it with a turkey baster.  Starts right up and runs till gas get to it from the tank.  Worth 10 minutes of your time when wanting to drive the car.

Quote

I did that also with a 35 Buick Series 40 I had.  The battery was under the seat and the cable was really long.  It made a world of difference.  I think I also did the same thing with my blue '39 Buick for about 20,000 miles after then engine was rebuilt, but the others do okay with more standard ORIGINAL cables.

 

[BuickBob49]

Out here in the Pacific Northwest, I've been getting my old Buick batteries from Les Schwab Tire Centers for over twenty years.  The 3EH costs less than the 2E and has more cranking amps, and the original hold-down frame and J-hooks work fine.

 

If you are lucky enough to get the car down to one of their stores, they will install the battery at no charge.  That saves you having to lift out that old, heavy battery and drop in the new one!

Edited June 25, 2019 by BuickBob49
Clarification (see edit history)