Joseph P. Indusi

Members
  • Content Count

    792
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Joseph P. Indusi last won the day on July 5 2016

Joseph P. Indusi had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

171 Excellent

About Joseph P. Indusi

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Long Island, New York
  • Interests:
    Antique car restoration, electronics, fishing

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I cannot confirm that the Ford/ Mercury temperature sensors are used in the 51 Lincoln but I suspect that they are. I believe these are King-Seeley type sensors that are not simply resistors that change resistance with a change in temperature. There are a few Ford websites that explain how these work but I cannot put my hands on my files right now but will check in a few days. Joe
  2. I also used the little flat head screws that disappear into the fuzzy strip. Used some 3M adhesive on the back of the strips. Looks as good as the original. I have the staples but they must have used a powerful gun at the factory to use them. I used stainless steel screws and they have done the job well for over 15 years. Joe, BCA 33493
  3. some photos of the AC Spark Plug torque wrench made by Jo-Line Tools. Joe
  4. I have a GM torque wrench for AC spark plugs from the 50’s inherited from my uncle who was a parts and service manager in Olds, Buick and Cadillac dealers. A very nice tool made in the USA. Joe
  5. I always store my clicker type at the lowest torque setting when not in use. Joe
  6. I have the copper clad on my 53 Special. I hear a small leak when engine cold that seems to go away after the engine heats up. May give the Remflex a try in fall. Too hot and humid on Long Island just now. Thanks Matt and Aaron. Joe
  7. Thanks for your fast response. If these compress close to the copper clad then I should be ok. There is no way to reroute or change orientation of the hose fitting. 53 was the first year for power steering on the series 40 although the 50 and 70 series offered it in 52 but they used the wider GM C body and in the B body things are a little tighter. Thanks. Joe
  8. Matt: Also forgot to ask if use mixture of oil and graphite on both sides of Remflex gaskets. Thanks. Joe
  9. Matt: The Remflex gaskets look thicker than copper clad. My 53 has power steering and one of the hose fittings comes awfully close to the exhaust manifold. How much thicker do you think Remflex vs. copper clad? Joe
  10. If you do not have a shop manual you should get one now. Usually here is a wiring diagram in one of the later sections. This will help you in trying to resolve your problem. Usually when unrelated systems seem to be powered with everything off there are poor grounds at multiple locations. There may also be a defective switch. With patience and a systematic approach using the wiring diagram you will find the culprit(s). Joe, BCA 33493
  11. I agree that Roger is on the right track. I can always tell when it is time to replace my battery in my 53 Special straight eight when the engine starts when I lift my foot up from the accelerator. I have had a Pertronix module installed and it is very sensitive to battery voltage. I got 7 years on my last battery but my new Tractor Supply 3EH makes it sound like a 12 volt system whe cranking. Starts in seconds. Joe
  12. Hchris: A temperature drop of 15 degrees C equates to about 27 degrees F. I typically see a drop of about 15 to 20 degrees F with a recored radiator. These IR guns are very useful in many applications. Joe
  13. One thought involves the coil spring inside the lower radiator hose. After the engine cools down grasp the lower hose and try to squeeze it to feel the coils of the spring. If you do not feel a spring inside then the engine runs hot because the lower hose is collapsing under the suction provided by the water pump, especially at speed or high RPM. However, if there is a spring inside the lower hose and the radiator is over filled then the posts above are right on. I also use a laser pointer type heat gun to diagnose these issues. Joe, BCA 33493
  14. OK, just read your last post. 6.25 volts at idle is good depending on the engine RPM at idle. As I said in my previous post, a fully charged battery, with no current draw (one cable disconnected) should read about 6.3 volts. If your battery is fully charged, typically after a 10-15 minute run at speed, the voltage across the battery at above idle, 1200 RPM or so, should be about 7 to 7.5 volts. Your charge indicator behavior seems to be correct for a good battery and charging system. Joe
  15. Yes, heavy or the right size cables helps starting and charging also. You can buy an inexpensive battery hydrometer and check each cell to see if the specific gravity of the electrolyte is OK for each cell. A fully charged lead acid cell should have a SG of about 1.28. A simple alternative would be to charge the battery for a few hours and then turn on the headlights for 6 seconds and then turn them off. Place a digital voltmeter across the battery terminals and you should read 6.3 volts with one cable disconnected from the car. Glad to see you are making progress. Joe, BCA 33493