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Where can I get a correct set of tubes for a 1933 Plymouth?


auburnseeker

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So in another thread it's been stated to not use the tubes one of the big companies sold me with the offset stems.  Now that my tires are off in a pile and I want to get the car back together,  where can I buy tubes with a straight centered stem for the 17 inch, steel wire spoke wheels on my 1933 Plymouth?

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Start calling all the providers here in the US and then if needed go to the internet and look for tubes in Europe.  I had to buy a set of tubes from England for my 1928 Chrysler restoration.  The price and shipping were not as bad as I would have expected.  You may have to settle for a smaller tube than is correct for your car if nothing else is available.  I was told by a professional in the tire business you can use a slightly smaller tube but never a larger one.  Good luck.

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I’d imagine any (local) tire shop worth their name/reputation should be able to come up with appropriate tubes, especially if they’re supplying the tires and/or mounting & balancing, etc. for them.

Edited by TTR (see edit history)
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With a bunch of internet searching it looks like the only option is Coker has a tube that appears correct.  45.25 each so with shipping and sales tax over $200 for 4 tubes.  Ouch. Over 1500 to put tires on a 33 Plymouth.  Now see why that's such a concern when you buy a $6,000 car (typical needy 4 door price) that seems like a deal, (that we often see posted here) just needs brakes tires and a "tuneup". (read tons of other mechanical work that you will discover with twisted gut at a later date).  So yeah drop $3000 before you can make it a driver with free labor.  

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1 hour ago, auburnseeker said:

With a bunch of internet searching it looks like the only option is Coker has a tube that appears correct.  45.25 each so with shipping and sales tax over $200 for 4 tubes.  Ouch. Over 1500 to put tires on a 33 Plymouth.  Now see why that's such a concern when you buy a $6,000 car (typical needy 4 door price) that seems like a deal, (that we often see posted here) just needs brakes tires and a "tuneup". (read tons of other mechanical work that you will discover with twisted gut at a later date).  So yeah drop $3000 before you can make it a driver with free labor.  

Can you link to the page with the tube? I am looking at https://www.cokertire.com/accessories/tubes/17_1.html and I don’t see one for 5.25/5.50 with a center stem.

 

One thing about Plymouths of that era is that most of the mechanical parts are readily available. Most, not all. The big issue is with trim items that are specific to a single year or even for a few years: There is not a lot of good surviving parts to use original and the market is too small for most to be reproduced. Starting with a new to me vehicle, I would rather get one with really good trim parts and mechanical issues than the reverse.

 

You are correct though, even with free labor you will dump a large amount of money into the car to make it a reliable driver and you will end up with more in it than any plausible market value. But for me the car is a hobby, not a profit center.

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18 minutes ago, marcapra said:

Do you mean the tubes for your Philco radio?  

I believe the topic was tubes for tyres rather than valves for radios.

 

How is your DeSoto coming along? I ought to pop over the hill to see what it looks like but Ortega Highway is a mess and often closed for construction on weekends.

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You must be British!  Ortega highway is pretty trecherous too.  Right now, I'm working on assembling the dashboard, and it's a pretty complicated dashboard too.  I have put on the chrome pieces and the big diecast radio grille.  there are a lot of lights you have to put in also.  I installed the speaker, the glove box, but am still looking for the lock.  It's spring loaded, so you can't close the door without the lock as it has the catch on it.  I'm getting ready to install the clock, the instruments and speedometer.  And I put on the control panel with all the push pull knobs.  After that will be connecting the wiring harness to dash before I put it in the car.  

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1 hour ago, auburnseeker said:

Here is a link to Coker's page

 

https://www.cokertire.com/accessories/525-500-17-18-nickel-stem-90100-tube.html

 

A set of 4 with shipping and sales tax came in at right around 221.00.  Ouch!

Thank you for the link.

 

Just to double check, I entered the Coker site fresh and tried to find that page. Near as I can tell it is not linked to by any of the searches for tubes or valve stems, etc. I have no idea how you found it.

 

That looks like a lot better match my needs than what I have in the tires at the moment, I think you just cost me $221. 🙁

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So I just got my tubes in.  Super fast shipping,  but that's where the good ends. 

I broke the tire down,  pulled out the old (new ) tube with offset stem.  Opened the box and took a look,  Another offset super long stem tube.   They have the right item number applied most likely by someone at Coker on the box,  but the label underneath clearly states offset.  ARRGGHH!  I just messaged them.  Hopefully they atleast have the right tubes. So over $50 a tube with shipping and they didn't even send the right one!  I can't fault whoever pulled and packed them as they did their job correctly.  It's whoever tagged them that needs a good scolding or worse. 

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On 11/1/2023 at 9:40 AM, auburnseeker said:

So in another thread it's been stated to not use the tubes one of the big companies sold me with the offset stems.  Now that my tires are off in a pile and I want to get the car back together,  where can I buy tubes with a straight centered stem for the 17 inch, steel wire spoke wheels on my 1933 Plymouth?

  Have you looked at motor cycle tubes?   They'll be radial tubes.  Better than bias tire tubes in my opinion.

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I talked with the guy at coker and they don't actually have a center stem tube like the 86116 I mentioned and linked.  There is an error in the listing page and that is suppose to be an offset stem.  :( 

 

The guy said closest he could find is a 86115 but that doesn't come up right either.  A TR4 motorcycle tube might work he said?  

 

If anyone has any ideas as to what size fits the darn thing please let me know.

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Have you tried Lucas tires (https://lucasclassictires.com/classic-vintage-tires/tubes/)?  I have not used them and have no idea about their quality, but I see they at least list Michelin products. At least it's another possibility.

 

Also, a person in one of the car clubs I belong to recommended using truck tubes.  He got some from Firestone.  He contacted a Firestone service center and there was a minimum number he needed to purchase (IIRC it was 10).  Here is the link to their catalog (https://firestonetubes.com/images/pdf/catalog.pdf)

 

Frustrating situation of all of us! Good luck!

 

Robert

Edited by Dr B (see edit history)
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I actually bought the tubes from Lucas ,  but they were shipped directly from Coker I believe in the first place on the first set of tubes. 

 

After a bunch of research,  I think the appropriate tube size for a motorcycle is a 140/80 -17

 

Looks like there are primarily two domestic options to that.  A Michelin on Amazon (best price) 

https://www.amazon.com/Michelin-Supermotard-Tubes-80-17-Black/dp/B000GTZL9A/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_pl_foot_top?ie=UTF8

 

and these cheaper Vee brand ones on ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/186138543764?hash=item2b56b8c694:g:lrcAAOSwj85YNHJ1&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4DKq9Fjb3SKcJct6TLehq9QEJMxCXnAXkEDEBrzSmOpI12idawMKR0a55Eb0rDcmSM7f37qy6dZOzV%2FDcj8evubAm7%2BxA%2FCHsfM8bI5DyDFIR527iAXytLAtoxOi5fUaYPAhjB%2FQdVBZYXLFr%2F5%2F912C8A9rDPTFzb7YEPvg2EHFJTJs21E6D5%2BxH1VZ0zmWBMwr9QiTslhlus%2FD0MdJX3Z11jOVMGxaIaNZGrZGGKleIxB7dFLmugFPt9uAGpZKQyTEyf6rPCZ1qU1mP5255gX%2BXbJu2YBs7kwlC0RM3SHD|tkp%3ABk9SR97jhfb1Yg

 

 

I'm leaning toward the Michelins as they are suppose to be Heavy duty.   

 

Any thoughts or suggestions before I go ahead?   Is this the only or a good option? 

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Hopefully the motorcycle tubes work out for you.

 

The really frustrating part for someone like me just watching your struggle is, although I do not need tubes now, I will in the future.

How difficult is it going to be a few years down the road to find correct tubes?

It's not like you can buy tubes, put them away for years and expect to trust them going down the road years later.

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I bought a set of Michelin XZX tires and tubes from Lucas for my TR3.   Coker is the supposed US distributor, but they didn't have them in stock.  Lucas did, and at a slightly better price.

 

Sad that Coker is no longer owned by people who care about old cars.  Likely to be the death of them.  

 

Edited by Zimm63 (see edit history)
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1 hour ago, auburnseeker said:

So I went with the Michelins from Amazon.  Will post an update on how they work out.   Seems this size from them may be available for a while still. 

The motorcycle tubes I used for a while had narrow diameter valve stems, like those on a bicycle. You may need to use some washers or other spacers to have them work with the larger valve stem holes found on automobile wheels.

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On 11/4/2023 at 1:10 PM, auburnseeker said:

So I just got my tubes in.  Super fast shipping,  but that's where the good ends. 

I broke the tire down,  pulled out the old (new ) tube with offset stem.  Opened the box and took a look,  Another offset super long stem tube.   They have the right item number applied most likely by someone at Coker on the box,  but the label underneath clearly states offset.  ARRGGHH!  I just messaged them.  Hopefully they atleast have the right tubes. So over $50 a tube with shipping and they didn't even send the right one!  I can't fault whoever pulled and packed them as they did their job correctly.  It's whoever tagged them that needs a good scolding or worse. 

I had exactly the same problem with Coker.  My copy of the purchase order clearly stated that I wanted the straight stem.  With the correct part number on the purchase order.  "They said no problem return them and we'll sent the correct ones free shipping" I'm on the far west coast of Canada and shipping is 10 working days, assuming they go through customs without a hitch or getting lost at customs.  I told them that I had the car up in the air and all four wheels off the car and tires removed so waiting 10 plus days was a real inconvenience, and tied up shop space, and no fault of mine.  I wanted them shipped overnight air.  They wouldn't pick up the tab for that expense so I had to foot the shipping bill to get them the next day.  

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Hi auburnseeker……..At the minute I have set aside a bit of time to get the undercarriage of the 1929 Fargo Express Panel, I recently bought, in working order.

A daunting part of this was finding suitable 5.25-5.50X18 tires, and equally suitable inner tubes at a reasonable price.

Patience payed off and I managed to find four new tires, still in the original wrappers and the blue protectant on the whitewalls for $225.00 and some shipping costs.

The inner tubes was another story, and, as is many of the tasks related to reanimating a nine decades old truck, a bit of research, and a lot of learning had to be done……….and sometime “learning” doesn’t necessarily mean attainment of the desirable results. As a fact, a major portion of my old car related skills were acquired as a consequence of things which didn’t work right the first time.

Be advised that I too waded around in the quagmire of the “Coker” swamp, and I too discovered that their pricy inner tube line up is painfully lacking inner tubes with a center, straight valve stem.

I am dumbstruck by this oversight of a dealership which professes a wizard like knowledge of old car accessories.

For a starter, you can buy any size tube, for temporary use on your antique car so long as it has a diameter of 20”. The “fat” size of the tube will be determined by the inner dimensions of your tire and inflation pressure.

Harbor Freight sells a 20”, general purpose, inner tubes for less than $10.00, and Tractor Supply Company stocks them also.

Be aware though that there are some special requirements which makes use of these inner tubes impractical for permanent use on an antique car.

A first consideration is the durability of the tube, and when buying a cheaper one, expect to get one of a poorer quality. This is important because your antique car rims have a lot more snags and sharp edges than modern, single piece, rims. A thin tube is easily gouged and torn when used on a rim which can be compressed and expanded to install the tire, and that gap, where the rim is divided, can sure ruin a cheap tube in the blink of a eye.

Also, modern tubes, regardless of stem position, have short valve stems which become inaccessible when installed in a tire used on a removable, antique, rim. That means that adding, or removing air becomes impossible after the rim is mounted to the wheel. Accordingly, the valve stems of inner tubes specifically sold for use with antique car rims have exceptionally long valve stems. To add a bit of assurance that the valve stem will not be lost during installation of the tire, since the tube will move as the rim is expanded, most valve stems of antique tubes will come threaded, and the set will contain washers and nuts to secure it.

Sorry about the run-on, but that’s what this hobby is about.

Jack

Edited by Jack Bennett (see edit history)
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I problem with the cheap generic tubes are the stems.  I can't speak for wire wheels but for the wooden wheels the straight stem has to be quite long.  Mine are close to 3 inches long and they are brass.  I preferred the brass stem over the rubber because in the past I have had issues with the stem rubbing on the steel opening in the rim causing a leak right at the stem and of course a patch won't work there. 

The brass stem diameter is significantly smaller than the hole in the rim.  I didn't like the idea of rain water entering in there, so I got a piece of rubber hose about an inch long with matching diameter sizes of the stem and the rim opening to fill that void.  Then I use that stem nut that comes with the tube to hold the rubber hose from coming out.

 

I recommend using tire flaps,  particularly the 7" ones as opposed to the 5" ones.  The tire flaps that Coker offer are surprisingly very substantial.  The rubber overlaps to make the circle by about 8-10".  They are actually so heavy duty I thought it might cause an issue with balance.  But I didn't have that problem.  But where the rubber overlaps and is volcanized together the thickness is almost an inch thick.

 

When installing the flaps and tubes in the tire and mounting the split rim, I suggest buying a 2 lb bag of flour and dumping it into a large sturdy garbage bag, and shaking each tube and flap in the bag individually so they are coated really well with flour.  Also coat the inside of the tire with flour.  That will make everything go much easier.  

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I did get the Michelins in but haven't had a chance to install them. I did  open the package.  The stem is fairly short but threaded so it will keep the stem from going inside the rim when mounting. Actually the shorter stem is good on the steel wheels as it's hard to get some tire fittings on the long stem as there isn't alot of room between the pouter rim and the hub.   They feel a tad lighter duty than the Hartford tubes.  We'll see when I get them mounted.  

 

As for water in  the rim. The tube flaps pretty much seal the stem up.

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