herman de boer Posted October 11, 2022 Share Posted October 11, 2022 Dear people from the AACA Now the engine is stuck I don't know why I put new engine oil in the engine Turn the engine a little bit And it's stuck What did I wrong Next year I take the engine out of the car to look at the crack somewhere inside Have someone a explanation Thanks Herman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walt G Posted October 11, 2022 Share Posted October 11, 2022 Remind us of the car you are working on so we do not have to search the forums to try to find it please, thanks. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryB Posted October 11, 2022 Share Posted October 11, 2022 Herman, is this your Studebaker? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
28 Chrysler Posted October 11, 2022 Share Posted October 11, 2022 If it will turn backwards it could be a stuck valve or lifter. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DFeeney Posted October 11, 2022 Share Posted October 11, 2022 You might take the starter off to expose the ring gear. Use a flat bar to crank the engine backward to see if it free's up. This would be a start. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herman de boer Posted October 12, 2022 Author Share Posted October 12, 2022 18 hours ago, Walt G said: Remind us of the car you are working on so we do not have to search the forums to try to find it please, thanks. Okay Walt It's still my car I'm working on I took Al the old oil out And put new in I don't know why it is stuck Herman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herman de boer Posted October 12, 2022 Author Share Posted October 12, 2022 12 hours ago, DFeeney said: You might take the starter off to expose the ring gear. Use a flat bar to crank the engine backward to see if it free's up. This would be a start. Thank you I turned the fan around but no turning engine Someone talk about the engine oil today is not for old timer engine Very strange What do you think about Herman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herman de boer Posted October 12, 2022 Author Share Posted October 12, 2022 17 hours ago, TerryB said: Herman, is this your Studebaker? Yes I put before coolant in But there was a crack inside so a lot of coolant was inside the engine pan with the oil I took everything out and put new oil in Suddenly after a couple of turns it was stuck Because of the crack I take the engine out of the car next year I hope I can fix the crack I don't want I totally new engine in I like it the way it is Herman Thanks for your time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herman de boer Posted October 12, 2022 Author Share Posted October 12, 2022 17 hours ago, TerryB said: Herman, is this your Studebaker? Yes it is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herman de boer Posted October 12, 2022 Author Share Posted October 12, 2022 16 hours ago, 28 Chrysler said: If it will turn backwards it could be a stuck valve or lifter. Okay For thirty years I didn't had problems with turning the engine by the fan Maybe it's because I cleaned up the oil filter. And put it back in a wrong way I will take a look Herman Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted October 12, 2022 Share Posted October 12, 2022 Is it in gear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DFeeney Posted October 12, 2022 Share Posted October 12, 2022 Herman, As you know water in the oil is not good Since the car does not run I would pull the head and pan and try to find out how the water is migrating into the engine oil pan. If you do this now you can look for a used engine/block over the coming Winter if needed. When you find out your problem post it on the forum and you will receive expert advice. The cheapest thing you can do is "only fix it once" even if it seems expensive at the time. Keep us posted 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted October 12, 2022 Share Posted October 12, 2022 (edited) If your getting water (Coolant) seeping slowly in a cylinder this could cause the engine to stop turning. You need to fix the crack if there is one. Also, Improper torque on the head and gasket can cause this. Take the spark plugs out and then turn the engine. If water comes out of one of the holes you know which cylinder has the problem. Dandy Dave! Edited October 12, 2022 by Dandy Dave (see edit history) 7 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DFeeney Posted October 12, 2022 Share Posted October 12, 2022 It is hard to guess a problem, It could be as simple as a failed head gasket. You need to inspect your engine and narrow down the possibilities. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walt G Posted October 12, 2022 Share Posted October 12, 2022 I agree with an engine rebuild - if an engine is apart you can properly inspect any and all possible issues and once rebuilt properly never really have any problems again. IF you can get another similar motor and rebuild that and then "transplant " it into your car it will save you having to lean over the restored/repainted fenders etc. Working on an engine on a stand is a lot easier and avoids most problems ( trying to reach things) that can occur if it is still in the car . take the time now , it will save a lot of aggravation later. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
58L-Y8 Posted October 12, 2022 Share Posted October 12, 2022 1 hour ago, Dandy Dave said: If your getting water (Coolant) seeping slowly in a cylinder this could cause the engine to stop turning. You need to fix the crack if there is one. Also, Improper torque on the head and gasket can cause this. Take the spark plugs out and then turn the engine. If water comes out of one of the holes you know which cylinder has the problem. Dandy Dave! Herman: Dandy Dave's advice is spot-on: leaking head gaskets aren't uncommon when an engine has been rebuilt but not immediately put through the heating and cooling cycles then retorqued to spec's. Removing the spark plugs will relieve the hydro-lock the leaking cylinder has because the combustion chamber is full of coolant which can't be expelled. If worse comes to worse and it turns out to be a cracked block, the 205.3 ci six-cylinder Rockne engine was the first of a new generation of six-cylinder Studebaker engines that would be transferred to the 1934-'35 Dictators. It was stroked 1/4" to continue as a 217.8 ci for 1936-'37 then the bore increased a 1/16" to the 1938-'42 & '47-'48 226.2 ci Commander Six. Finally, it was stroked again 3/8" to 245.6 ci for the 1949-'50 Commanders. For 1951, the new ohv V8 became the Commander engine but the 245.6 ci six continued as the heavy truck engine through 1960. Your Antique Studebaker Club members can be of great assistance if you run into further problems. Good luck with your work getting that engine healthy again. Steve 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herman de boer Posted October 12, 2022 Author Share Posted October 12, 2022 4 hours ago, avgwarhawk said: Is it in gear? Sir No,I don't think so I will take a look at the oil filter Maybe I fixed it on the wrong way I'm not sure Thanks for all the advice Herman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herman de boer Posted October 12, 2022 Author Share Posted October 12, 2022 45 minutes ago, 58L-Y8 said: Herman: Dandy Dave's advice is spot-on: leaking head gaskets aren't uncommon when an engine has been rebuilt but not immediately put through the heating and cooling cycles then retorqued to spec's. Removing the spark plugs will relieve the hydro-lock the leaking cylinder has because the combustion chamber is full of coolant which can't be expelled. If worse comes to worse and it turns out to be a cracked block, the 205.3 ci six-cylinder Rockne engine was the first of a new generation of six-cylinder Studebaker engines that would be transferred to the 1934-'35 Dictators. It was stroked 1/4" to continue as a 217.8 ci for 1936-'37 then the bore increased a 1/16" to the 1938-'42 & '47-'48 226.2 ci Commander Six. Finally, it was stroked again 3/8" to 245.6 ci for the 1949-'50 Commanders. For 1951, the new ohv V8 became the Commander engine but the 245.6 ci six continued as the heavy truck engine through 1960. Your Antique Studebaker Club members can be of great assistance if you run into further problems. Good luck with your work getting that engine healthy again. Steve Steve You don't know how I appreciate this kind of information I'm so happy that people are honest and helpful from the aaca In my country I have sometimes problems with people who do a job for me And they lying and do there job not 100% Even when they are professional But thanks 👍 Herman 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herman de boer Posted October 12, 2022 Author Share Posted October 12, 2022 2 hours ago, DFeeney said: It is hard to guess a problem, It could be as simple as a failed head gasket. You need to inspect your engine and narrow down the possibilities. Sir I took the pan from the engine And the engine head also I good see still coolant inside the engine The coolant is coming from between second and third cilinder ad the front down under After one night there is nothing left So I think somewhere between second and third cilinder there is a crack Herman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herman de boer Posted October 12, 2022 Author Share Posted October 12, 2022 2 hours ago, Walt G said: I agree with an engine rebuild - if an engine is apart you can properly inspect any and all possible issues and once rebuilt properly never really have any problems again. IF you can get another similar motor and rebuild that and then "transplant " it into your car it will save you having to lean over the restored/repainted fenders etc. Working on an engine on a stand is a lot easier and avoids most problems ( trying to reach things) that can occur if it is still in the car . take the time now , it will save a lot of aggravation later. Sir Good advice Thanks Herman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimy Posted October 12, 2022 Share Posted October 12, 2022 Herman, if you or a previous owner replaced the head gasket with one of modern manufacture (plastic instead of asbestos in the center), you will probably need to re-torque the head as many as five times before you achieve a final seal. With the old asbestos-center gaskets, it was usually necessary to re-torque only once. At our Pierce-Arrow meet in June, we had a car with a newly-replaced modern gasket but only one re-torque; that car had combustion gas escaping into the coolant and causing overheating almost instantly. Several more re-torquings, each after 30 minutes of running, solved the problem. I prefer to re-torque after the car has cooled overnight to prevent threads being pulled out of the block. As @58L-Y8 recommends, remove spark plugs and see if water comes out the spark plug holes. Add light oil to any cylinder which has had water. With your cast iron head, I'd want to go only to 55 lbs/ft (please convert to n/m) but build up to it: the first cycle at 25, then 45, then twice at 55. (If the factory shop manual specifies a different torque value, use that one. I am suspicious of aftermarket manuals which often call for much higher torque on pre-war engines.) 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herman de boer Posted October 12, 2022 Author Share Posted October 12, 2022 46 minutes ago, Grimy said: Herman, if you or a previous owner replaced the head gasket with one of modern manufacture (plastic instead of asbestos in the center), you will probably need to re-torque the head as many as five times before you achieve a final seal. With the old asbestos-center gaskets, it was usually necessary to re-torque only once. At our Pierce-Arrow meet in June, we had a car with a newly-replaced modern gasket but only one re-torque; that car had combustion gas escaping into the coolant and causing overheating almost instantly. Several more re-torquings, each after 30 minutes of running, solved the problem. I prefer to re-torque after the car has cooled overnight to prevent threads being pulled out of the block. As @58L-Y8 recommends, remove spark plugs and see if water comes out the spark plug holes. Add light oil to any cylinder which has had water. With your cast iron head, I'd want to go only to 55 lbs/ft (please convert to n/m) but build up to it: the first cycle at 25, then 45, then twice at 55. (If the factory shop manual specifies a different torque value, use that one. I am suspicious of aftermarket manuals which often call for much higher torque on pre-war engines.) Thanks That will be next summer when I will look at the engine Thanks anyway Herman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old car fan Posted October 12, 2022 Share Posted October 12, 2022 Pulled the head,no coolant in the cylinder s 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted October 12, 2022 Share Posted October 12, 2022 "After you drain the oil the oil pan is just an inspection cover." 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herman de boer Posted November 9, 2022 Author Share Posted November 9, 2022 On 10/12/2022 at 1:42 PM, DFeeney said: Herman, As you know water in the oil is not good Since the car does not run I would pull the head and pan and try to find out how the water is migrating into the engine oil pan. If you do this now you can look for a used engine/block over the coming Winter if needed. When you find out your problem post it on the forum and you will receive expert advice. The cheapest thing you can do is "only fix it once" even if it seems expensive at the time. Keep us posted Good morning from the Netherlands I just want to know If I can use a kind of liquid to solve the crack in the engine There is coming a little coolant every 15/20 seconds from between the fourth and fifth cilinder under the engine out I took the pan of ofcoursto see what happens Thanks again and enjoy Herman The Netherlands Bergen NH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted November 9, 2022 Share Posted November 9, 2022 Probably not able to use some type of sealer. It should be fixed correctly. If the crack is in the cylinder wall, you can have the cylinder sleeved. Other places, you might be able to have someone weld the crack, but that takes a very skilled person. There is also stitching the crack. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Dobbin Posted November 9, 2022 Share Posted November 9, 2022 Interesstung thread. A lot of good information here too. I would guess it needs a cylinder sleeved as well as welding the engine block. Keep us posted Herman. Interesting color combination on the Studebaker, if in America I would guess it to be a Taxi, but not in Holland where cars and Taxis are conservative colors. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herman de boer Posted November 10, 2022 Author Share Posted November 10, 2022 18 hours ago, Paul Dobbin said: Interesstung thread. A lot of good information here too. I would guess it needs a cylinder sleeved as well as welding the engine block. Keep us posted Herman. Interesting color combination on the Studebaker, if in America I would guess it to be a Taxi, but not in Holland where cars and Taxis are conservative colors. Good morning sir Thanks,yes I now But I will try first a sealer if that doesn't work out I will weld the crack,but it is on a difficult place I like this color combination red/white I enjoy to see the car this way Only who spay the car didn't do a good job I'm angry about that Yes in my country there are not many people who have a open minded They are conservative In that way I like America very much I hope soon to visit the country Enjoy your living Herman de boer The Netherlands Bergen NH 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herman de boer Posted November 10, 2022 Author Share Posted November 10, 2022 20 hours ago, Larry Schramm said: Probably not able to use some type of sealer. It should be fixed correctly. If the crack is in the cylinder wall, you can have the cylinder sleeved. Other places, you might be able to have someone weld the crack, but that takes a very skilled person. There is also stitching the crack. Good morning sir Yes the people give me always good advice and information I'm very happy for that The crack I believe is on a difficult place So I will try first sealer It's not the best solution,I know It's not in the cilinder wall the crack But more above, a difficult place Next year I will see I bought a Dodge coupe 1938 And sold the Volvo Amazon combi Is there a new fuel tank to buy in America for the Dodge I can drive around in the Dodge coupe next year It's a wonderful design and color It's enjoying when I can drive a car from the early 30 That kind of design is not anymore It makes living more tasteful Thanks again and enjoy living Herman 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DFeeney Posted November 10, 2022 Share Posted November 10, 2022 I would post your question about a Dodge brothers gas tank in the Dodge section of this forum. I believe that they are reproduced. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30DodgePanel Posted November 10, 2022 Share Posted November 10, 2022 4 hours ago, herman de boer said: I bought a Dodge coupe 1938 And sold the Volvo Amazon combi Is there a new fuel tank to buy in America for the Dodge I can drive around in the Dodge coupe next year Hi Herman, you have some very good questions. I for one am encouraged to see your interest in our classic American vehicles. Try these guys, I believe they have inventory of the reproduced tank you'll need. Link for 1938 Dodge parts 1938 Dodge Parts- Vintage Parts From Andy Bernbaum Auto Parts (oldmoparts.com) Direct link to the fuel tank Fuel tank, 1937-1939, Steel Reproduction, Vintage MOPAR parts - Andy Bernbaum Auto Parts (oldmoparts.com) Good luck, Dave 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herman de boer Posted November 12, 2022 Author Share Posted November 12, 2022 On 11/10/2022 at 2:49 PM, 30DodgePanel said: Hi Herman, you have some very good questions. I for one am encouraged to see your interest in our classic American vehicles. Try these guys, I believe they have inventory of the reproduced tank you'll need. Link for 1938 Dodge parts 1938 Dodge Parts- Vintage Parts From Andy Bernbaum Auto Parts (oldmoparts.com) Direct link to the fuel tank Fuel tank, 1937-1939, Steel Reproduction, Vintage MOPAR parts - Andy Bernbaum Auto Parts (oldmoparts.com) Good luck, Dave Good morning Dave This is great Have a nice day Thanks Herman de boer The Netherlands Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herman de boer Posted November 12, 2022 Author Share Posted November 12, 2022 On 11/10/2022 at 1:34 PM, DFeeney said: I would post your question about a Dodge brothers gas tank in the Dodge section of this forum. I believe that they are reproduced. Good morning sir Yes, thank you for your information It's very nice to enjoy the cars history And driving around like the days before The design,we don't see that happening anymore Herman de Boer The Netherlands Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herman de boer Posted November 26, 2022 Author Share Posted November 26, 2022 On 11/10/2022 at 1:34 PM, DFeeney said: I would post your question about a Dodge brothers gas tank in the Dodge section of this forum. I believe that they are reproduced. I have already some good information about my question Thanks sire enjoy the day Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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