Best driving 1930-1934 cars

[Den41Buick]

I know there will be lots of varied options on the best driving cars out there. Not only should they be FUN to drive but exhibit enough power to keep up in traffic. Please eliminate those cars that we could only dream about driving. I am thinking we should stay to 6 and 8 cylinders. Thanks for in advance for your opinions.

[Rusty_OToole]

I would be looking at Hudsons and Chryslers. Not that I have owned or driven either, I am going by their reputation at the time.

Especially Hudson Terraplane Eight in the low price class and Chrysler Airflow in the pricier models. But the heavier Hudsons deserve a look  too.

 

Just a few years later, like 1938 - 1942, you will find a lot more cars that are competent at speeds over 45 or 50.

Edited September 11, 2022 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)

[Walt G]

From personal experience of either ownership or hours behind the wheel ( as in many hours over many decades)  1930-1934 Franklin Airman ( The Olympic series of 1932-34 are great, same engine but a bit tight for me as I am just over 6 feet tall and have long legs) 1931 to 1933 Chrysler 8 cylinder ( from the smaller 8 to the larger Imperial - great stuff)

Lincoln 1929-32 . I am only listing what I have spent some considerable time behind the wheel of , the Lincoln was mostly a model L of the 1929-1930 era and was not my car but belonged to my buddy Austin Clark. I like Packards of that era as well but have not put in days behind the wheel of one. What time I did spend is mainly behind the wheel of a standard 8.

Walt

[jrbartlett]

None of the cars mentioned so far will keep up with a '34 Auburn 8 with a two-speed rear axle. A friend has one that at 70MPH is turning only 2,000 RPM.

[Rusty_OToole]

"Please eliminate those cars we could only dream of driving". Wish Mr Den41Buick would clarify this. I suspect Franklin, Lincoln, Packard and Auburn would fall in that category but who knows.

[Marty Roth]

50 minutes ago, jrbartlett said:

None of the cars mentioned so far will keep up with a '34 Auburn 8 with a two-speed rear axle. A friend has one that at 70MPH is turning only 2,000 RPM.

Mr. Bartlett is correct, of course, but then the Auburn would tend to be a bit pricey. Some of the others also fall into that category.

A reasonable option might be a 1934 Buick. With independent front suspension, straight eight engine, power brakes, pretty good parts availability, great club support, and dynamite looks, they are also a fantastic Road Car. Ask me how I know. We toured our 50 series 1934 Buick for a dozen years.

Edited September 12, 2022 by Marty Roth
typo, and additional note (see edit history)

[Rusty_OToole]

I'm beginning to think a Packard might be a good choice. I see some decent early thirties eights for $52000 and $65000 on Hemmings website. Whether this is affordable or not remains to be seen. Other Packards are offered at $100,000 to $365,000 so compared to some Packards, $52000 is a bargain. There is even a 1935 V12 for $95,000.

 

A Cadillac or LaSalle might also fill the bill but some threads on here recently about certain problems they have with carburetors etc that are nearly insoluble, has put me off them.

[Rusty_OToole]

Further looking around the Hemmings site turned up a 1932 Auburn V12 sedan for $40,000. Looks complete but worn. Engine and trans out of car. Seller suggests turning it into a speedster. I suggest he should be shot with a bolt of sh*t. If you had the chops to put the engine and trans back in and put the car back in commission it would make a great survivor tour car.

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/auburn/12-161a/2581639.html

Edited September 12, 2022 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)

[Rusty_OToole]

There are some good buys in Chryslers but all the smaller 6 cylinder jobs. The big CL straight eights seem to go for over $100,000 some much more. I don't know if the small six would fill the bill for performance. There is a 31 CD 8cyl coupe that needs work for $27,500

 

Buick 90s only one turns up this month, a nice roadster for $89,500. There are some sedans at more affordable prices but all the smaller models.

 

There are a couple of 1930 Cadillac V8s for $44,000 and $64,000 which seems in the ballpark for an affordable, powerful car of the time. I'm still concerned about service headaches unless someone with more experience of the model has better information.

 

Just going by browsing Hemmings website it seems Packard offers the most choices at reasonable prices. But, I can't get that Auburn out of my mind. Maybe next month  a nice Buick 90 sedan will turn up at a good price.

Edited September 12, 2022 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)

[marcapra]

I knew a guy who was considering buying a 32 Chrysler in San Diego, so he called me up to ask if there were parts for a 32.  I looked in the usual places like Bernbaum's and saw that the engine gasket kits only go back to '33.  I looked in my 70 Years of Chrysler book and saw that the 32 engine was a one year only design.  But people do rebuild them, so I guess gaskets kits can be hand made.  

[Rusty_OToole]

Here's a wild one, a 1929 Stutz Black Hawk, six cylinder OHC companion car to the Safety Stutz straight eight. This one seems in good shape offered at $37,500

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/stutz/black-hawk/2550771.html

[Rusty_OToole]

Here is an intriguing possibility, a 1929 Pierce Arrow straight eight that has had a lot of work done including an overdrive. Seems a bargain at $45,000.

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/pierce-arrow/133/2598237.html

 

Something I have learned from this exercise, there is not much difference in price between different makes of the biggest classic cars. There is quite a difference between different models, and condition plays a part. So if you fancy a particular make you might as well shop for one, if there are any available.

[Rusty_OToole]

Possible best buy, a 1933 Graham Blue Streak straight eight sedan for only $19,500. Low miles. I know some Graham owners, they think a lot of their cars.

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/graham/blue-streak/2606572.html

Edited September 12, 2022 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)

[Rusty_OToole]

Maybe the best deal of all, a really nice looking 1934 Pierce Arrow Brougham for $54,500

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/pierce/unspecified/2609572.html

[marcapra]

1 hour ago, Rusty_OToole said:

Here's a wild one, a 1929 Stutz Black Hawk, six cylinder OHC companion car to the Safety Stutz straight eight. This one seems in good shape offered at $37,500

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/stutz/black-hawk/2550771.html

I really like the looks of this car as it conjurs up the feel of the roaring 20s.  The big con is it's not really a Stutz, but a separate marque called the Blackhawk.  It was common in that era for the more expensive marque to have a junior make like Oakland had the Pontiac, and Cadillac had the LaSalle.  The Blackhawk only lasted two years 1929-30.  The Great Depression wiped it out.  

[Rusty_OToole]

2 hours ago, marcapra said:

I really like the looks of this car as it conjurs up the feel of the roaring 20s.  The big con is it's not really a Stutz, but a separate marque called the Blackhawk.  It was common in that era for the more expensive marque to have a junior make like Oakland had the Pontiac, and Cadillac had the LaSalle.  The Blackhawk only lasted two years 1929-30.  The Great Depression wiped it out.  

So a junior Stutz at a much friendlier price. In handling and driving would expect it to be up to Stutz standards. It might not even be much slower if it is lighter and they dispensed with the expensive, heavy and inefficient worm drive rear axle. It seems to make a good tour car, at least previous owners think so.

You can't call it a con if it is plainly labeled for what it is. I'm not sure if it was a model of Stutz or a separate make, it doesn't make much difference either way.

[Rusty_OToole]

I wish Mr 41 Buick would clarify what he meant in the original post. Best driving, fun to drive, able to keep up with modern traffic, made between 1930 and 1934. If he wants a car that can cruise the interstates at 70 that is a tall order. Only the largest most powerful and most expensive cars of those days could do that. Such a car is likely going to cost at least $100,000 and be counted as a full classic. Which conflicts with his desire to avoid those cars we can only dream of driving.

Anyway it was an interesting fun question. It sent me down a rabbit hole and got me scouring the Hemmings ads for the first time in years.

[John_S_in_Penna]

A lot of the prices quoted above are merely

asking prices, even by dealers.  The true values

are assuredly less.  For example, one of the dealers

quoted above had a 1976 Buick Electra for $35,000,

when its true value was more like $15,000.

[Rusty_OToole]

John is there a rule about prices? For example would you automatically knock off 25% from any price in Hemmings or is it a question of knowing values on a one by one basis?

[Walt G]

20 hours ago, jrbartlett said:

None of the cars mentioned so far will keep up with a '34 Auburn 8 with a two-speed rear axle. A friend has one that at 70MPH is turning only 2,000 RPM.

How often does anyone need to drive a car of the era being discussed at 70 mph?  for any length of continuous time - hours , days? 🙃

The cars I mentioned are comfortable at 50-55 mph for periods of time up or down long grades on highways. An overdrive or 2 speed rear does indeed let the motor work less, have less strain , but was that the point of this topic/ question ? How fast can you go with the least amount of strain??  Most tours I believe are not even done at 50 mph.

Edited September 12, 2022 by Walt G (see edit history)

[alsancle]

9 minutes ago, Walt G said:

How often does anyone need to drive of car of the era being discussed at 70 mph?  for any length of continuous time - hours , days? 🙃

The cars I mentioned are comfortable at 50-55 mph for periods of time up or down long grands on highways. An overdrive or 2 speed rear does indeed let the motor work less, have less strain , but was that the point of this topic/ question ? How fast can you go with the least amount of strain??  Most tours I believe are not even done at 50 mph.

This is correct.

 

All of the pre-war tours I’m familiar with, if your car will do 50 miles an hour and you’re fine. Exception to that rule is the Duesenberg tour, but of course a Duesenburg will practically do 50 miles an hour in first gear.

[John_S_in_Penna]

1 hour ago, Rusty_OToole said:

John is there a rule about prices? For example would you automatically knock off 25% from any price in Hemmings or is it a question of knowing values on a one by one basis?

It depends on each individual car.

However, from what I have seen, dealers' prices are

often 50% to 100% higher than true value, and over what

they just paid.  And such a statement can be documented,

because a car may be for sale by a long-time owner for

a certain amount, and said to have no needs, and then

reappear at a dealer's for double the price.

[John_S_in_Penna]

23 hours ago, Den41Buick said:

Not only should they be FUN to drive but exhibit enough power to keep up in traffic. 

What traffic do you mean, Den?

Many people here are thinking you mean superhighway traffic.

Smaller highways, though, may have 45 m.p.h. limits and be

much more enjoyable to drive on.  And how much better to

drive on roads of any size with NO traffic!

[Highlander160]

Wow, lots to unpack. Parameters seem limited. Just buy and drive? Something put away and ready to awaken? Price limit? I mean, a new dually is near 100K for anything much over a rubber mat utility pkg so what does affordable mean? 

 

Getting realistic let's try some of my opinion. I'm biased, some who know me already know what I'm going to suggest. Packard sedan. 1100 or 1101 is the target from 1934. Best steering, smooth, powerful, great brakes. Not unusual to see one in excess of 80K miles and still kicking, never rebuilt. Affordable? 40-60K depending on condition. 

 

Now I'm going to be a wet blanket. Who, show of hands, thinks its smart to take to the freeways and run 70+MPH in ANY car 34 and older? Not me, not today. What kind of high speed freeway gymnastics do you think the above spoken Auburn can do when the stupid twit next to you is texting and runs you off the road? How fast will it stop? Can you swerve around an animal without rolling the car? I'm doing a hot rod 39 Ford with a heavy rear sway bar, dropped axle, gas shocks all around, and my target cruising speed is 60. Sure I can roll it faster but it was born in 39. Am I making too much sense yet? What's the hurry anyways? Enjoy the drive. And for the record I don't believe even ½ half the bloviating internet bravado about high speeds and such. Maybe you've touched a high speed but cruised for hours at 70? And got what, 5-6 MPG? Beat the snot outta your babbit? Ok, I'm done, but somebody had to say it.

[edinmass]

What a car can do, and what it should do are two different things. A good rule of thumb on any CCCA classic is a minimum of 350 CID. That generally means you can climb any hill, and drive any back road with ease, and even jump on an interstate for 10 miles without causing any major issues. Can you get cars to run 70 mph all day long....sure. Just more money and effort. Still doesn't mean the brakes, steering, and suspension are capable of doing it safely. I actually prefer mechanical brakes in old cars.......so they can sit without issues and are ready to go in just a few minutes. Juice brakes don't like sitting for more than three months. Any standard or super eight Packard from 32 up is a great car. Buy the best car you can, it's cheaper in the long run. Preferably one that just did a 1000 tour. Any car sitting for five years is going to cost 10-20 k to make semi road worthy if you can't do it yourself. 

 

PS- Tires are still a pain to secure, so before you buy any car, check availability for rubber. 

 

 

Under 350 CID, and the modern roads and traffic become much more of a challange. 

Edited September 13, 2022 by edinmass (see edit history)

[Walt G]

18 minutes ago, edinmass said:

What a car can do, and what it should do are two different things.

Exactly !!! and I would add what it can do comfortably. As wisely mentioned and observed - would you want to pound the babbit bearings to death even with a two speed read end or overdrive? None of what I ever comment here about be it historically or in reality with use of a car is based on other peoples experience or research. I am all hands on - either working on or driving the car itself or looking up the facts/ material in original period publications.

[sunnybaba]

Hi ... of the ones mentioned above... I feel the 1933 Graham is the best buy at a very reasonable price... it would be very safe driving at 55-60 mph... it has good hydraulic brakes, and nice looking turn signals ( on either side of the lower trunk).... Original low mileage survivor Just drive it as is... putting very little money into it to sort it out.... another lower priced , common car is a 1934-37 Chevrolet Master... with the Dubonnet independent front suspension, and the 3.4L.....80 hp overhead 6 engine... down draft carb..... will cruse 50-55 mph all day long....  if sorted properly of course......... so I think I hear you about affordability ... at $19K  the Graham is my choice

)

Possible best buy, a 1933 Graham Blue Streak straight eight sedan for only $19,500. Low miles. I know some Graham owners, they think a lot of their cars.

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/graham/blue-streak/2606572.html

Edited September 13, 2022 by sunnybaba (see edit history)

[jrbartlett]

Regarding the twits, I would rather be capable of running their speed than forced to watch them come up on me from behind running 20-30 miles faster even on secondary roads. And tours? Sure, generally leisurely driving. But what about the times when you are driving on your own across a city or 50 miles on state highways in order to get to an event? I don't want to trailer all the time.   

[Walt G]

I don't own a trailer nor truck to pull same. For 25+ years I drove from my home on long island to the Syracuse, NY area in August heat ( usually 75+ degrees) in my 1931 Franklin Airman) no high speed gears in the rear end, no overdrive, etc. All main state roads /high ways - interstates. Rt 17 east and west, and rt. 81 north and south. Could cruise along at 53 to 56 mph up or down hill and any long grade, that was where the car felt comfortable  - enough power to pass as well beyond that . The car had a custom victoria brougham body and was heavier then the normal production largest series sedan, was over 2 tons total in weight . This was done in sun and rain ( 3 + hours in the rain more than one year but I slowed it down to about 50 mph ) It was a week long event from start to finish - the drive up to the drive home and over two major bridges in the NY metro area. I usually put on 1,000 to 1,200 miles in that week depending upon the tours during the week. I didn't need to go 65 mph plus anyplace to avoid modern traffic/drivers, semi trucks etc. never had an issue. I sold the car to a good friend in Pa. who still takes it to CCCA and AACA events ( it was at Hershey and the Elegance there as well - a blue and silver Derham bodied brougham that was made for the Chicago and NY salons according to Enos Derham ).

[PFitz]

What I'm not seeing mentioned about that era and doing modern highway speeds, is the safety factor.

 

Many of the cars mentioned may be able to not melt the Babbit out of the main bearings at faster modern speeds, but the brake systems were marginal at 50-55mph. Thinking cars of that era can do well in a high-speed panic-stop, and you can expect brake fade and warped drums. And you don't get to control the idiot drivers, just pray you survive their surprises. Been there with even more modern cars. There are rarely a more underwear changing moment then during a high-speed panic stop feeling the brakes start to garb and then the pedal goes down as the drums heat up and expend and car is not slowing downlike you expect. 

 

Never mind what speeds the engine can survive, smart drivers don't outdrive their brake systems. 😉

 

Paul

Edited September 13, 2022 by PFitz (see edit history)

[Grimy]

I'll add these comments:

 

* At the end of the specified 1930-1934 period, some cars had adopted independent front suspension, which I believe to be one of the greatest advances of automotive technology (even though my beloved Pierce-Arrow never adopted it, and Packard not until 1937).  IFS meant that a shorter wheelbase car was substantially more comfortable and controllable at highway speeds *of the time* because one no longer needed a long wheelbase to adjust for road condition issues.

 

* I totally agree with @edinmass in his preference for mechanical brakes for pre-war collector cars because of his point that much less maintenance is necessary.  The primary difference I experience is that the final stop in a mech brake car is far less crisp (shall we say) than in one with juice brakes, so one must be especially prepared for that in stop-and-go driving.  Pierce, for example, had huge, highly effective brakes (342 sq in of swept area) from 1931 and with either S-W inertial boost (1933-1935) or vacuum boost (1936-1938) speed could be reduced dramatically and quickly, but these cars still had the non-crisp complete-stop issue.

 

* A higher final drive ratio (differential ratio, adjusted by either factory OD or aftermarket OD) helps the experience of highway driving a great deal--but don't overspeed the braking and handling capabilities of the car, because it's the total package that counts.  I share @Marty Roth love for our former 1934 Buick 50 cars, but the 4.88 gear ratio IMHO does not afford a pleasant highway driving experience.  And Packard's love for its most common 4.69 ratio throughout the 1930s falls in the same boat.

 

* Try driving a number of different cars of the period to find out what *you* are comfortable with.  There are many trade-offs involved in such a selection and what matters is what *you* really like after considering both capabilities and limitations of each car.

[Marty Roth]

1 hour ago, Grimy said:

I'll add these comments:

 

* At the end of the specified 1930-1934 period, some cars had adopted independent front suspension, which I believe to be one of the greatest advances of automotive technology (even though my beloved Pierce-Arrow never adopted it, and Packard not until 1937).  IFS meant that a shorter wheelbase car was substantially more comfortable and controllable at highway speeds *of the time* because one no longer needed a long wheelbase to adjust for road condition issues.

 

* I totally agree with @edinmass in his preference for mechanical brakes for pre-war collector cars because of his point that much less maintenance is necessary.  The primary difference I experience is that the final stop in a mech brake car is far less crisp (shall we say) than in one with juice brakes, so one must be especially prepared for that in stop-and-go driving.  Pierce, for example, had huge, highly effective brakes (342 sq in of swept area) from 1931 and with either S-W inertial boost (1933-1935) or vacuum boost (1936-1938) speed could be reduced dramatically and quickly, but these cars still had the non-crisp complete-stop issue.

 

* A higher final drive ratio (differential ratio, adjusted by either factory OD or aftermarket OD) helps the experience of highway driving a great deal--but don't overspeed the braking and handling capabilities of the car, because it's the total package that counts.  I share @Marty Roth love for our former 1934 Buick 50 cars, but the 4.88 gear ratio IMHO does not afford a pleasant highway driving experience.  And Packard's love for its most common 4.69 ratio throughout the 1930s falls in the same boat.

 

* Try driving a number of different cars of the period to find out what *you* are comfortable with.  There are many trade-offs involved in such a selection and what matters is what *you* really like after considering both capabilities and limitations of each car.

 

Thank you, Grimy, for the note.

 

Yes, our 1934 Buick 50 Series always felt like it needed another "higher" gear, but was a superb driver. We solved the issue.

 

Lloyd Young (of blessed memory), spliced a Borg-Warner overdrive into the torque tube of my '34. I surely didn't need higher speed, but was much more comfortable with the ability to reduce RPM by 30%. Additionally, through the ability of split-shifting, I could also use the overdrive on Second Gear which was extremely comfortable when climbing very steep hills behind slower cars, typically while on early car tours, or behind big heavy trucks on secondary roads - a fantastic addition. I also had Lloyd splice a Borg-Warner 70% overdrive into the torque tube of our 1912 Oakland for the same reason of lower engine revs. Our 1930 Packard was delivered in Monaco via the Paris Packard agency, likely to the royal family as a livery vehicle, transporting guests and baggage back and forth over the Alps between Paris and Monaco, ultimately being brokered by the Dragones in Bridgeport, CT to Formula-1 driver Abba Kogan. It resided in his fabulous Monte Carlo collection for many years. This car came with a 5.08:1 differential, as well as a Low-Low "Granny" gear in the 4-speed transmission. The overdrive was fitted by Lloyd directly to the differential, requiring that we machine a shortened driveshaft, utilizing a new U-joint. We retained the original complete driveshaft in the event that some future caretaker would desire to return the Packard to original mechanical condition. In the current configuration it is, much like the '34 Buick, an excellent tour driver.

 

As a result of the 70% overdrive ratio,

the 1934 Buick 50 Series' 4.88:1 ratio effectively becomes 3.416:1,

the 1930 Packard 733's 5.08:1 ratio becomes 3.556:1.

Both of these are much more tour-friendly !

Edited September 13, 2022 by Marty Roth
additional note and typo (see edit history)

[Den41Buick]

On 9/11/2022 at 11:11 PM, Rusty_OToole said:

"Please eliminate those cars we could only dream of driving". Wish Mr Den41Buick would clarify this. I suspect Franklin, Lincoln, Packard and Auburn would fall in that category but who knows.

I was referring to the big cylinder cars, V12 and V16's.  I think Franklin, Lincoln, Packard, Pierce-Arrow, are certainly eligible. Thanks for the great suggestions!

[Grimy]

Try driving a 1932 Pierce-Arrow Model 54 (8-cyl), 137" wheelbase.  They are more agile in feel than those before or after, and have plenty of power.  This is the first year for synchromesh transmission, and they have freewheeling, but differential ratio is 4.23, comfortable cruising speed 58-60 mph.

Edited September 14, 2022 by Grimy
fixed spelling (see edit history)

[edinmass]

Mostly all good comments. The correct answer is buy a bunch of cars…….then you have all situations covered. Road choice, and location are the main issues. Here in southern Florida, we have many great roads…….as long as you are up and back by 11 am on most weekend days. Adjusting to road conditions is what it is all about. My Ford T will never live in Florida. My 1917 White is fast enough for most roads………but the brakes are not. So the 17 get driven sparingly and only on certain roads and certain days. AJ’s Stearns is used like a modern car. As for 1934 Buick Series 56 series car as a driver……….ask me next week!

[edinmass]

3 minutes ago, Grimy said:

Try driving a 1932 Pierce-Arrow Model 54 (8-cyl), 137" wheelbase.  They are more agile in feel that those before or after, and have plenty of power.  This is the first year for synchromesh transmission, and they have freewheeling, but differential ratio is 4.23, comfortable cruising speed 58-60 mph.

If I can only have one old car………..and that thought scares the hell out of me, it would be a 1932 Series 54 Pierce. 

[zepher]

9 minutes ago, Grimy said:

Try driving a 1932 Pierce-Arrow Model 54 (8-cyl), 137" wheelbase.  They are more agile in feel that those before or after, and have plenty of power.  This is the first year for synchromesh transmission, and they have freewheeling, but differential ratio is 4.23, comfortable cruising speed 58-60 mph.

 

Pierce Arrows continue to be the best value in true 'Classics' due to their relatively low cost (compared to other big Classics), their drivability, build quality, styling and club support.

A well sorted 30's Pierce will run in modern traffic all day long, both on secondary roads and highways.

[Rusty_OToole]

On 9/12/2022 at 10:06 AM, John_S_in_Penna said:

It depends on each individual car.

However, from what I have seen, dealers' prices are

often 50% to 100% higher than true value, and over what

they just paid.  And such a statement can be documented,

because a car may be for sale by a long-time owner for

a certain amount, and said to have no needs, and then

reappear at a dealer's for double the price.

There may be more to this than meets the eye. A dealer may have bought a car that was sitting unused for years and spent thousands of dollars and a hundred hours cleaning, polishing, and repairing to put it back in commission. It is very easy to spend thousands on a relatively inexpensive forties, fifties or sixties car for tires, battery, brakes, hoses, tuneup etc. I hate to think what you could spend on a real classic. But have seen an estimate of$10,000 to $20,000 if it does not need major work.

[Rusty_OToole]

2 hours ago, Den41Buick said:

I was referring to the big cylinder cars, V12 and V16's.  I think Franklin, Lincoln, Packard, Pierce-Arrow, are certainly eligible. Thanks for the great suggestions!

One of the Hemmings ads was for a V12 Auburn for $40,000! You never know your luck. I was frankly surprised at what is available and the prices, that certain models of full classics are fairly reasonable in price. It was an intriguing exercise and a lot of fun.

Edited September 14, 2022 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)

[Steve Braverman]

I'm going to second Walt G's Franklin suggestion. Not only are they more reliable than others due to their air cooling. but they are usually more economical to buy than others. My 1932 and 33 will both run at 55 mph quite comfortably. I'm not as tall as Walt (5'9"), but I find the Olympic to be very comfortable, and the two prior owners before me were both over 6'. If you can find a Franklin Olympic, you'll have a truly great road car, and something unique.