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likeold

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I tried an electric pump on my 35 40 series but I didn't see any difference in starting so I removed it.I still have it in case I need it in the future.I now use it as a transfer pump when putting gas in my tank from a plastic five gallon gas tank.It's easier than trying to lift the gas tank and pouring it in.As for starting I drilled a very small hole on top of my air cleaner and squirt a small amount of gas down the carb.and it fires right up.I also replaced my accelerator pump seal.Like Jim mentioned make sure your battery is fully charged.

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I put the electric pump in the other day and I am impressed at my initial test. This morning on a cold start I push the pump button for about 2 seconds, pump the gas pedal twice, give it a little throttle and she starts up first turn idles low doesn't stall. This is a huge improvement from the past where I would have to pump the gas, car would stall a few times crank and crank then I'd have to feather the gas at a high idle,  this is sweet. The pump makes a lot of noise but I only have to use it for a few seconds on each cold start so that's not a problem. It was a bit of a mess when installing it as I had gasoline every wheres, luckily I didn't burn down my barn.

20211216_151321.jpg

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Hi Mike,   Anything is possible.   I have never heard or seen that type of failure.   Placing the pump and filters on the inside of the frame protects it.   In my opinion,  I would be mote concerned about the carb needle and seat sticking open and flooding raw gas over the manifolds.   I also carry a  5#. CO2 behind my seeat JIC.     If there was a fire,  (by the way have a leather glove to keep your hands from being burned during upening the hood.) plus, protect YOU FIRST,  then try to control the fire.   Then thats why you have insurance when all else fails.   Again - its  JMHO....

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A word of caution for anyone working on a car old enough to use a King Seely Tele-Gage type gas gauge- you know the oil filled thermometer type- NEVER do anything to pressurize the tank, first thing that will happen is you will have oil dripping down the back side of your instrument panel that you just blew out of the gauge head...

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General useage on boost pumps is : turn on and listen for rhe pump - first. to be working ,  then for the rate of the pump to slow down.   That tells you that the system is full up to the carb.    What  I personally do is to then pump the throttle for two or three times and then turn in the ignition and press the starter.   Most of my friends have bypassed the regular start circuit and let the new remote push button do its job.    One less part / circuit to give you problems.    JMHO       (as usual).    

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I've had far better service using a Carter Rotary vane type electric pump instead of the "Bullet-style" click pump.

They last well beyond expectations (unlike the cheapie), and are a life saver when vapor lock becomes an issue

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4 minutes ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

I am using an Airtex E 8094 on my EFI.  20,000+ miles so far

 

  Ben

The older Airtex units seem to have held up pretty well,

but the newer ones I tried didn't last very long,

even though we use only non-ethanol fuel, along with Star-Tron 

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I installed an electric "priming" pump also.  When the car sits over 5 days, I use the pump to fill the carburetor bowl and she fires right up!  Takes a lot of stress off your battery, starter and related components that you don't need to crank the engine incessantly until the mechanical pump fills the carburetor.  Once running, the original, mechanical pump pulls through the electric pump.  It is only used for priming the system after sitting awhile.

 

I did install two 5/16" plug valves, one before and one after the electric pump, so if it fails, the next change will be a lot less messy!

Also, I used fittings instead of the rubber to ensure a good tight seal.  

I know you already installed your pump, but here's the write up with photos in case you want to change out the rubber hose......

 

Just touch the arrow in the upper right corner.  It details over six posts.

 

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For gas boost on cold starts after sitting for a few days or more, I do this:

 

1. open the fuel supply from the vacuum tank and wait 20 seconds for the carb to fill

2. press the tickler on the carb for 3 or 4 seconds. The owners manual calls it a "flusher"

3. open the idle fuel screw by a half turn (180 degrees) until it starts and then turn it back

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3 hours ago, Morgan Wright said:

For gas boost on cold starts after sitting for a few days or more, I do this:

 

1. open the fuel supply from the vacuum tank and wait 20 seconds for the carb to fill

2. press the tickler on the carb for 3 or 4 seconds. The owners manual calls it a "flusher"

3. open the idle fuel screw by a half turn (180 degrees) until it starts and then turn it back

 

Sounds like a lot of work, I like my little button right beside the heater switch, instant starts, 5 seconds. 🙂 

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On 12/17/2021 at 8:28 AM, likeold said:

I put the electric pump in the other day and I am impressed at my initial test. This morning on a cold start I push the pump button for about 2 seconds, pump the gas pedal twice, give it a little throttle and she starts up first turn idles low doesn't stall. This is a huge improvement from the past where I would have to pump the gas, car would stall a few times crank and crank then I'd have to feather the gas at a high idle,  this is sweet. The pump makes a lot of noise but I only have to use it for a few seconds on each cold start so that's not a problem. It was a bit of a mess when installing it as I had gasoline every wheres, luckily I didn't burn down my barn.

20211216_151321.jpg


 

That pump is how we shall say.........not worth the effort, because I can’t curse in public here. They are trash.....and are broken when new out of the box. In the shop we call it an “outstanding pump.” Put it in your car and you will be out standing on the side of the road broken down.......buy a Carter........for 125 bucks and you will be fine.

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The best 10,000 dollar advise you can get......and it’s free. Sadly, almost no one will listen. No, I don’t own stock in the company......but I wish I did.

 

 

E0435485-C262-4C7E-B9A3-F162E8F7DC56.png

Edited by edinmass (see edit history)
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20 minutes ago, edinmass said:


 

The best 10,000 dollar advise you can get......and it’s free. Sadly, almost no one will listen. No, I don’t own stock in the company......but I wish I did.

 

 

E0435485-C262-4C7E-B9A3-F162E8F7DC56.png

Don't shoot me for saying this, but my car used to start very poorly, and I was very frustrated to the point I trolled for an electric 6v pump thinking (ignorantly and inexperienced) it would solve my starting issue.

But, after reading the great advice and encouragement on this forum, I didn't let my rookie status with Marvel sway me from digging in.

 

After 3hrs of a patient full and meticulous teardown and rebuild of my carb, all I can say is WOW, does the car start nice (my wife and kids can start it without feeling like they need to anxiously make many rapid adjustments).

My garage is 40degF, engine starts once a week just fine now and when it was in the 70s recently.  We'll see how it starts in July 2022 at 80% humidity in 90degF ambient....stay tuned.

 

Just trying to encourage those frustrated by poor starting...my car starts with a completely empty carb bowl after about 4-5 engine revolutions.  My mechanical fuel pump fills the carb in 2-3 pumps from the diaphragm actuation.

 

Be sure to check timing, vacuum, ignition etc. in addition to carb and fuel system....meticulously....it really pays off!

My vacuum holds rock solid at idle for both cold and warm engine around 17-18 inHg.

 

Don't get discouraged with conventional pre-war fuel systems, and be hyper safe if you go with an electric fuel pump.

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  • 4 months later...

Well I'm happy to say after the car sat for four plus months I hit the electric fuel pump button for about 20 seconds, pumped gas peddle twice, pulled out throttle some and she fired right up and did not stall, I like this.

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