Jump to content

Jim Nelson

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Jim Nelson

  1. I was looking closely at the axel bearings and they might be needing replacing. Either its just grease and dirt or those races are not acceptable. Those inner races are fairly easily replaceable and with new outer rollers and inner and outer seals, your good. I've done several rear ends and these are parts that when replaced will give you + 75000 and more QUIET operation miles. I really don't like doing a job twice when I'm already there.
  2. Hi Bob, It looks like Lloyds work. It has been cut and put together and you can see the sprocket that is welded to the shortened drive shaft. That drive shaft needs to be cut to the original drive shaft dimension Did you get the chain coupling chain ? Its a double link chain. I think Lloyd used a #40 coupling chain. I have two of his OD's. My first is on my 38-46s coupe. love it and done long trips. My second in in my 35-58 Buick. With Lloyd gone, Glen is doing them using stock from Lloyds stuff. I think he is doing a better job of welding parts on. Plus, Lloyd used the old bearings if they seemed ok by Lloyd. I owned a bearings shop for 18 years so I'm picky about good bearings. Today, Glen uses much better bearings and 'new' ones. Glen was doing Lloyds mods for Loyd. So Glen knows what and how. I noticed the governor opening that needs to be closed off. Plus there is a sequence to keeping the OD filled. It must be lubricated with GL - #1. Do not use modern GL#5. the synchro's can not tolerate the more slippery lub. This goes for the synthetic lub. Rear and tranny will be fine with GL#5. What a difference driving with the OD. Again, check the length from the face of the pumpkin to the flange / drive shaft. If its to long, Send it to Glen with the corrected length and your god. My recommendation now that you have it apart is to check the pinion bearing now. Check your SM and they will tell you that the MAX clearance for the rear bearing is 0.0015". That is quite tight. Next, if that bearing is over the mac clearance, the front double row ball bearing will be beyond limits. Been there, done that. If you don't fix it now and you have a noisy rear, its take it apart and do it then. Next, I can guarantee the axel out board roller bearings have never been lubed since the factory did it. Now is the time to replace those bearings and seals. Now beats the hassle of replacing it later. Now is the time.... Glen is 614-571-4908 still in circleville Ohio.
  3. oooops, I just bumped the wrong key. My 37 and 38 had / have a dash mounted throttle. I use that when starting and keeping a cold engine running. When my water temp gage starts to rise, its warm enough to push it in and resume normal operation. So thats my operation and my '35' has the same set up now. I removed my twist octane selection unit on my dash. Now it works like a choke knob in the push / pull function. The '35' is now home but I'm working much slower now. I had mounted my 12 volt alternator on my regular '38' mounting bracket. I felt it was to close to the hood and wiring bundle. So I made a smaller / closer brace to move the alt.. closer to the block. I ended up making two others to get right , close enough. It is now where I think it should be. Working on mounting my LED strip lights that are for brake / running lights. I am making a brace to hold the strips just above the bottom of the rear window. This will be almost invisible as they are only 1/2" high. I hope to finish that next week.. Then I can legally drive it on the street.
  4. Anti-seize is the stuff. it come in a tube (small for your job) at your auto parts store. If I remember, alcohol or a solvent like that wii let you squirt the anti-seize on and into the shaft. Work the shaft while getting the stuff in/on the shaft. BTW, DO NOT GET IT ON YOU ! Its very hard or almost impossible to get off. I recommend using disposable gloves to - minimize - getting it on you. Its great stuff but be careful... I don't ever want mine to work. Its stuck / frozen in place and want it to remain thatway.
  5. Here are three pix of my 35-58 engine that I removed from my car. Tranny did not get taken at that time.
  6. Frank, My rear shocks are Delco and I got bushings from Steel Rubber corp. P/n 50-0087-33. I think my 'anti-roll bar had the same bushings. I had all shocks rebuilt by Apple Hydraulics . Rear shock were ~ $250 each and fronts were ~$450 each. Shocks are very important for handling ---. As important as brakes and tires. I'll find the pix of my 35-58 engine +.
  7. I guess I will take a look at my '38' rear oil. I put GL-5 in it so a hunting/checking I will go. Grimy, you're a wealth of .info. I was 'warned' about the GL-6 synthetic rear oils. I can find the GL-5 easily but GL-4 will require a bit of searching. .
  8. Ernie, I also got my ring gear for my '38' from Al. Around $300 + but its new and will last longer than I will.....
  9. Hi Frank. If you use 'GL-1 lub, you will be good. Its a 85w140 weight oil, or a 90w from Tractor supply has it in 2 gallon jugs. I used GL-5 in my rear. Since I needed GL-1 in my O.D. , I continued it in my tranny. I chose I believe you have synchro's and the modern GL-5 works. I need to use GL-1 because the overdrive units will sometimes want to disengage because the modern GL-5 is very slippery compared to GL-1. So you can use either. If you have any problems with the tranny gears wanting to not stay in, go back to GL-1. Our lub's today are far superior to the lib's of the thirties. Its what I've learned and I will continue that way. Love your 34 coupe, I'm jelouse (spelling problem )....
  10. Hi Ernie, It seems that Buick made the change for 1939 across the whole line of Buick engines. I have a '38' special. '35' Buicks up to 1938 small engines were the same. But they changed something for '39 engines. I got a '53' 263 engine and the ring gear was different from the '38' flywheel.. Other than number of teeth between the 248/263 engines and the 320 engines I did not find the difference. I think the clutch pressure plate also was changed for '39' - 248 engine. So something changed across the Buick straight 8 engines lines. I bumped into a machinist in Mich. who had them for sale. Not cheep but the options are not good. I think I paid around $300 for my '38' ring gear. I believe he had them made up for us owners that needed to replace worn out gears. There is the old wives tales that say you could flip the gear and run on the back side. Nope, don't do it. The leading edge is machined to allow for correct gear to gear engagement. If you tried using the back side, you will have issues only a gear guy can answer.
  11. Check with Dave Tacheny in Minnesota and see what he might have. Just getting a regular tranny crank and bell housing assuming your top side is good. You know from the rods and up. Lots of possibilities to keep your cost down and into a standard tranny. Whew ! ! I feel lucky when I bought a 263 that had already been partially completed for my '38'.
  12. The original flywheel is designed by Buick engineers to have a smooth operation. Quicker acceleration is not the issue. If you want quicker, then instal a 1955 nail head V8 and be done with it. Or as one chap suggested, put in a Chevy and modernize the drive train with open drive shaft. My 52 Buick 263 with over drive gets me down the road in fine shape. With the 'normal' heavy traffic, I get from stop light to stop light with every one else. On the fast roads, I easily cruise 65 mph all day. Fast enough to not be run over. The only mod. I felt I needed living in Florida was air conditioning to keep these old retired bones comfortable. That system was relatively hidden so it amazes many that I had a/c. Have fun - - -
  13. Yup, call Gene Phillips at 1-765-642-4088. He should be able to help you. I've seen it and its a very nice car. With the 3.4 rear, you can really travel comfortably. I have a 38-46s with over drive and I feel the same. Keeping up with traffic (unless your a fast traveling guy) with the big engine is a pleasure.
  14. I would not try to get a wedge to level the carb. You already have the correct manifolds. Use the three bolt manifold (straight ) and carb. I believe the carb is a stromberg AA2 and its a good carb.
  15. Use the intake / exhaust manifold from the 1937 248 engine. The intake manifold / exhaust manifold will be in a straight line, and its a straight bolt on part. The later 40's and early 50's (263) had a 'bend' to keep the carb level with the tilt of the engine. As a quicky - the '37' carb was a three bolt mount that bolted to the 'straight manifold '. The later 40's carb's was a 4 bolt mount, ( ie. all 263 engine's ), that attached to the 'bent' intake manifold. Just some thoughts to help you separate parts.
  16. Not mine but a good friends. Its a dual mount coupe. With a 3.4 rear. Rebuilt brakes, and steering box. Its a dark blue / green factory color. Its in great shape but the 36-38 club director want to let it go. Call Gene at 1-765-642-4088 CST
  17. Good choice ! For many mechanical reasons. Its why I did mine that way.
  18. Well, the engine is the most expensive part. We understand that and time is not the issue. Its the challenge to learn about the very nice - engineered car from Buick. I've been down that road. My second Buick (1935-58) was the last of the wooden bodied cars from Buick. But I liked the style / design over my 1938-46s. I knew up front that the '35' was going to be more expensive because of the mechanics - last of the first design of the 8 cylinder design. The '36' began the design of the lasting design that Buick used all the way until 1954 with the first V-8 engines. I'm retired so time was not the issue. Just the enjoyment and the other old Buick guys makes it worth it.
  19. Your ring gear is salvageable. If you need to replace it,, there is a guy in Mich. who has new ones. BUT - $300 a pop. Of course, its an item that will last for another 50 - 75,000 miles. Check your tranny for condition. Syncho's are becoming harder to find. I got mine from a guy in N.Y.. He seemed to have what you need. I'm a mech. nut. First mechanicals then pretty items. My 38 is now good enough to take on long trips. My longest was 1800+ miles round trip. So, I'm a bit nuts like a bunch of us. You just move along and do a bit each day. Big projects always break down into many small projects that are solvable and thus affordable. Lots of opinions so ask. If you have someone close by, visit and ask questions. Nothing like putting hands on things. Again, welcome. BTW, if there is a Buick club, I would recommend joining and finding their tech guy. He becomes an excellent source of info. The 36 - 38 club out of Indiana. They are a club who drives their cars - not trailer queens. The virus has put a halt on our traveling but things will smooth out shortly. I am an outlier as I'm about the furthest away driving member. A few are a bit closer but driving is our goal. Gene Philips is the director and is a great guy. So, again, welcome !
  20. Ahaaa, a 263 engine is good. I got my263 with mods done. (for my '3846s ). . You may need to use the front cover from your '37'. That should give you the front engine mounts. some other guys who have done this will give you the details. WELCOME to our piece of insanity. Its filled with nuts like me and a few others who will admit to it..... Get your 'service manual' out and scan to get you up to speed with your great car. my insanity includes a '38-46s' coupe and a '35-58' two door sedan.
  21. keep using evaporust until the water coming out of the radiator AND the block is only a light brown. I think you have lots crap still moving around and will settle down and create hot spots. Do you have a remote reading infrared thermometer ? (try harbor freight ) I recommend getting one and keeping it around to check things like leaking exhaust valves (checking temps. at the manifold leaving points). Its one of my favorite instruments to keep my Buicks running smooth.
  22. I agree. Then when that is clean, I'll bet the block needs evaporust run thru until the water coming out is fairly clean. On my '37' I needed three kits to get it down to a light brown color. . My opinion is at least minimize, remove the rear freeze plug and remove what you can. Its a pain doing that but it beats doing the whole system. Buick designed their cars for 'normal' conditions. Normal driving speeds around 50 to 60 but not all day driving we now think is normal. I put up with 90+ * temps every summer and spend way to long at stop lights on black top roads waiting for green lights and the engines never get to cool down. Does your car have a old Buick radio ? mine weighs at least 50# or so it seams. You have to get behind the damn radio to unbolt the hinge. I got good at loosening up the 'hoop' and then actually twisting the sheet metal to let me pull the radiator. Also, removing the generator AND water pump to give you clearances needed in removal. When its done, you will be much happier and your engine will thank you.
  23. 1938 Buick model 46s coupe 1935 Buick Model 58 Vicky
  24. Hi Dave. Welcome to the cooling issues on Buicks.. You have a ? non standard radiator ? First, that tells me a previous owner had temp. problems. The 60 series and up had Buicks bigger radiator / cooling wise. It was a 3" deep core. The 40 series had the thinner 2" core. I have a 38-46s and 35-58 . The club I belong to has most of the members using a 'pusher fan' in front of the radiator. Next. do you have a remote infra-red reading thermo. I trust no one when it comes to these issues. Next, with the IR thermo. I warm up the engine ie 160* gage. Then I scan the back side of the radiator, side to side and top to bottom. This will give you a pretty good idea of its capacity / ? plugged cores, area's not working. Next, I scan the rear of the engine (manifold side) looking carefully at the lower rear part of the block where rust / sludge packs up. Then continue forward along the exposed cylinders looking for unusual temperature variations.. Then, I'm guessing, you will find warmer temps showing the block has got crap in that area. If your able, you can pull the rear freeze plug and scrap / dig out the crap in that area. Vacuum out as much as you can of the loosened rust. Then replace that freeze plug. I have used evaporust with some success. I needed to. use three passes and still got very dirty up to light brown coolant out. BTW, If you have a remote camera, looking in the top of the radiator will help. I live in Florida so engine temps are an issue. I removed both lower shields to help with cooling. Next, using the remote IR temp., I check each exhaust outlet into the exhaust manifold. That will tell you if you have an exhaust valve issue. If you need to 'freshen up the valves' by pulling the head. this lets you loosen up crap in the head and block cooling channels all the while cleaning the lower block. This is assuming this would make your cooling get better. Remember, these cars were designed to go 50 to max of 60 mph. If this doesn't help, its pull the engine time for a full rebuild, convert to insert rod bearings mod's, etc. I've been there and done that on both my Buicks. BTW, I installed over drive in my Buicks so I can cruise 65 mph all day long with 2350 rpm. I also am able to use 'real gas' cause its available and runs better.... PM if you want more details. oldbuickjim@gmail.com
  25. Harbor Freight had one that I got a few years back. It worked pretty good. I don't know if they still might have one but look it up..
  • Create New...