Jim Nelson

Members
  • Content Count

    458
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

121 Excellent

About Jim Nelson

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Well, there is one other item that needs modification. The heater is wired for 6 volts but you can get a wire wound voltage reducer to keep things kosher. You can get some mid 50's heater blower motors that are 12 volts. I think I have covered everything - - I hope, I think its 'old timers disease' creeping up on me - - - ya man.......
  2. Yes, I forgot that you must use a 'Runtz' voltage controller for the gas gage. You will cause failure it not used. There are some others but Runtz is the best. You don't want to replace the sending unit or have the gas gage repaired. - - -,
  3. When I did mine, I used Rhode Island Wire. They sell partials such as 'Dash to engine' wiring. My 35-57 and my '38-46s' wiring needed help. Their kits are well documented, labeled and easy ( ?) to understand and install. Is your wiring is decent shape ? Both My '38' and '35' needed help 'safety wise'. One thing in the conversion is '12 volt systems are common'. for those who are not electrical talented. Jay at Vintage is a fair guy but I suspect he bought a system that someone put together for resale. Converting to 12 volts is fairly easy. All lighting bulbs are replaced with 12 volt bulbs. You did the correct upgrades to the ignition coil to 12 v. The original 6 volt starter / solenoid assembly works nicely on 12 volts. BTW, removing the regulator removed the built-in ground for the starting circuit. That system was designed to use a coil in the regulator to keep the car from trying to start again after the engine is running by disconnecting that part of the start circuit. One of the two wires going to the starter solenoid goes to the regulator.. by running that wire a good engine ground will fix - eliminate that factory generator safety circuit as you use the much better alternator. The other wire leaving the solenoid goes to the vacuum start circuit. I really hope you installed a 3 wire alternator. The single wire alt does not put out until you get going. Google '3 wire alternators' for a good education on them. By wiring a normally open push button across the original vacuum start circuit - by passing it so it cannot work, that lets you start the engine ONLY when you push the button. Now if you have a solenoid issue - that is a starter / generator repair shop fix. They have the instrumentation to check out and repair problems. Study your Buick provided service manual (you have one right ? ) and they have a pretty good electrical diagram. Remember, their diagram is electrical circuits and a "not as actually wired" diagram.. electrically wired per the service manual when chasing problems but - well, get your buddy to explain just how. You will become a good fixer of their fairly simple designed electrical ... much is duplicated year to year with minor improvements for increased complexity.
  4. Well, I have issues with parts that don't work (replacement) and original place of manufacturing. Check the box they came in and see if they were made 8000 miles away. Just checking, Price is not the issue when it comes to safety parts - - - To much crap being thrown at us today, Just checking - - -
  5. Go over the electrical diagram. The electrical system is very simple. The only thing that most people miss is the grounding circuit that goes thru the regulator. The solenoid has only two wires. One goes to ground (thru the regulator) and the other gets its power from the starter button circuit. Use the original 6 volt starter and solenoid. They work fine. Wiring size is more than sufficient when going to 12 volts. Get the newer 12 volt head lights that are about 35 /55 watts. The original were I believe 25 / 25 watts. I just had my '35' 50 series head lights recoated by a guy in Michigan. ( Vacuum Orna-Metal , Frank @ 800-827-6762 ). They look like mirrors. I am converted to halogen bulbs. Details if wanted.
  6. Earl, did you buy this coupe ? This was the first of the later designs. This was the first with hydraulic brakes and all metal bodies. This was the last that had any wood inside. They had only two engines in '36'. The last of the 233 cu in. (and the beginning of the 248 engine) and the 320 big engine. It looks like a very nice outside. If you needed any engine work and other mechanical work, it might be a few bucks. Even if it did, when it was done it would be one of the nicest looking '36' coupes out there. With the side mounts, the original buyer bought an upscale version of the coupe.
  7. I have completed these items but it still grabs on my right front brake. New fluid to get it set up to use. Reground drums, New shoes that look to be in very good contact with drums. I did not cam ground them as you could put a paper shim between them with no gaps, new slave cylinders, rebuilt master cylinder (was in great condition but I rebuilt it anyway. New flex hose from front system to torque tube system. New front hoses to each front wheel slave cyl., I adjusted it from normal adjustment to loosen it to see if that does help - no change ! ? All hydraulic piping is clean and blown thru them to make sure they were free of any restrictions. I've done brakes in the past - (30 plus years experience on our Buicks - 36 thru 55. So, I'm not a newby ). I need help ! !
  8. My 233 series 50 engine has a orange filter canister.
  9. Turbos12, I have a '38-46s that had Cooker 7.60-16 bias tires. I am a radial tire guy. Bias ply tires are ok tires but not as good a tire for todays driving and roads. I was on a trip in my '38' coupe from Fla. heading to Indiana and had some cooling issues. So I decided to - ahem - turn around and head home. On the way back, in the dark on I-75, doing 70 mph (I have overdrive) in the left lane, I had a left front tire blow out. I survived and got off the road and changed the tire. I am an old guy and having blow outs came with with old cars. I have not had a blow out in my cars since around 1970 with radial tires. So, I dumped the Cooker bias ply tires (my choice) and went with Diamondback 16" touring. 7.60 R 16 w/ 2.5" WW tires. My Buick coupe now rides and handles safely. I did not have to do anything special but I like your upgrading of the rim's. I have a favorite tire shop who handles our old classic car tire issues. They went on easy and I've had no problems for over two years. I now have a "35-58" and I'm in the process of changing my OLD bias ply WW tires from, I think, Firestone. (oem tires). I'm going with Diamondback radials like those on my "38-46s". Yes, I'm prejudice, but my night experience brought me home ! I'm not trying to have a show car but it must be safe on the highway, as I drive my cars. Any one want some old classic tires ? Pay the freight / or pick up in southern Ga. They look good and seem nice enough for a show car originals but not for my driving in the Tampa Fla. heavy traffic.
  10. Like todays cars, the engineers did not design them to be repaired - just assembled. Repairs were an after thought. IF you have a '37' Buick, the engine side covers leave you with very little room to do things like replace the generator or replace the v-belt, replace the water pump etc... . The '38' has shorted engine side covers giving you much more room to work on your engine. Had a '37' and now have a '38'. A significant difference in room to 'fix' things. My '35' had the old style engine covers and they had much better room to fix things.
  11. Wow, thank you for the great techniques and how you were doing in the repairs on your Buick. I'm sure there are many 'repairs' that are a 'get by' on the repairs. The type of steel sheet used in our old cars is not the same as our sheet steel today. Again many thanks......
  12. Well, Gene now has a 1937-66 coupe. The color is the blue green color from Buick. The interior and exterior look very nice. Gene is quite happy with it. It came from PA about 4 months ago. It seems to be in good shape. He has replaced the generator with an alternator. Put a Pertronix ignition in place of the old points / condenser . So far, it is a good catch. Now, how do you cancel this from the forum list ?
  13. I think it cost me ~$500 and one weeks time to re-new my tank. Then the fun of getting it back in. But a happy feeling to know it was like new and not cause any future problems for another 80+ years.
  14. Matt has it right. Its one of those items you want done right the first time. BTW, if you did not like having a plastic see thru pre-filter, get an all metal filter.
  15. I had a tank on my 35-58 Buick that was unusable. The bottom was full of small holes from corrosion. No factory tanks available. A custom tank is expensive. (Fitting it to the old mounts would be a problem). The company called "Re-Nue" takes your old tank and cleans it up totally repairs and coats it inside and outside. This way I got a perfectly fitting, like new gas tank. My 35-58 tank had a strange outlet piping and it had a "normal" flange (on top) to mount a level indicating unit. I got a modern (?) normal float unit that included a top outlet pipe. I got it from "Bob's" as I wanted a top outlet for both level and fuel. I got a '39 - 56' fuel sender. He also has a '32 - 38' unit. I then installed a fuel boost pump / filter next to the outlet of the tank. I mounted it lower - near the bottom level of the tank to provide 'flooded suction' for the pump. ( I'm an old pump guy) . I don't like running a pump "dry" while getting it to prime. I got a new "Airtex" 6 volt pump that has a very fine attached filter - (p/n E8011) from 'Walmart' (good pricing and close delivery). Then I got a separate pre-filter from my local auto parts store. Its a large (~1-1/4" dia.) plastic filter (so you can see in it) . This assembly will give you clean gas to run to your carb. BTW, if your going 12 volts, the boost pump is an Airtex p/n E8016.