Jim Nelson

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About Jim Nelson

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  1. Sorry, finger slipped. The web site “Puregas.com”. Will let you know who has it. I set out on a trip to northern Indiana, (I’m in Tampa / St. Pete Fl.) and I was able to find real regular gas without ethanol poisoning my car. I had to plan my gas stops to get good gas but it works. It was like when I used to fly and needed to plan my flight on fuel stops. My ‘38’ let’s me drive about 160 miles between refueling. Your mileage will vary. I have over drive installed so I get ~16 mpg at 65 mph. I always leave myself with 3 gallons left in my tank when I refuel - - JIC my planned gas station was out. BTW, the web site gives you phone numbers so you can call ahead. Yes, I’m a bit paranoid but I enjoy driving by ‘38’ on long trips - isn’t that why they built good cars ?
  2. The only problem with avgas is being able to get it. Avgas 100LL is ok. I used to fly back when 80 octane gas was available. It had 1/4 the quantity of lead in it. Ie, modern 100 LL has 4 times the lead of the old ‘red’ 80 octane. Enough of that, we have serious problems getting getting plaine ole regular gas WITHOUT ETHANOL. The further north you go (I live in the south) the fewer gas station have non-ethanol fuel is available. “Purrgas
  3. Tim, You might want to change the bolt that holds the gas line to the thermostat housing. I replaced the bolt with a ‘all thread’ piece so I could remove / move the gas line with out disturbing the thermostat housing gasket. Bottom nut holds the housing together . Then I put the gas line bracket over the stud and then the top nut. Interesting, Greg 35 is just finishing up painting his ‘35’ with the same color. I have a ‘35-58’ with the ‘pony brown’ color scheme. The ‘35-58’ Vicky was only available in two colors. A very dark green and pony brown. My paint is getting rough as it’s beginning to peal off. It’s not original but it’s a second time paint. They did a good job but it’s been 30 or 40 years ago. Fenders are good but the body will need work in the future.
  4. If you knew how the original fuel line ran and how it entered and picked up fuel, you to would go crazy. You would have to remove the body ( hang it over the frame) . Then wind around the frame and suspension with the fuel line - - -,. The fuel pickup pipe and how it was attached to the tank - - -. I say Buick engineers (?) were having a bad hair day when they designed and installed the fuel system. There is no way I would go to that effort to duplicate that fuel line path. Throw in the ‘Marvel’ up draft carb and I almost get a headache just thinking about it. Buick 35-40 series was the best thing. That model had the last of mechanical brakes and the beginning of the 248 engine. The first Stromberg carb’s that we’re so far advanced that put Marvel carb’s to shame.... Water pump on the front of the head, mounting the generator on the drivers side etc. The 50, 60 and 80 series all had the early 30’s accessory design. Matt has good thoughts on restoring our great cars. He has the right ideas so we can see how it was really done back then. I choose to bypass some of the very bad designs with safe options that let me put them back on the road. People are interested in these 80+ year old cars and how they were made. As we know, only the few people who know these cars as they were originally built really appreciate the engineering changes that were coming fast.....
  5. I have a 35-58 that has several issues. I needed to renovate my fuel system. The fuel tank had the bottom full of pin holes. I went to “ReNu” that fixed my tank. The fuel line was in 3 seperate pieces.. BTW, I replaced the original fuel outlet line that went into the tank. Eliminated it. The ‘35’ tank has a modern mount that uses the 5 screw attachment. The ‘35’ tank used the mount to attach the level transmitter. I bought a ‘39 - ? 54’ combo unit. This gave me a fuel outlet pipe and a level indicating transmitter at the same point. I needed to bend (very carefully) the line from the new unit because it was pointing 180* wrong. I brought it around to point towards the drivers side. I then changed over to flex fuel line - 5/16’ - and mounted the fuel boost pump with a large filter in front of the pump. BTW the boost pump has a ? 25 micron filter for fuel entering the pump. So with the plastic cartridge filter with a Approx 300 micron filter, being my pre-filter, anything leaving the tank is good to go. I did NOT use the original fuel pump with the glass filter. Why ? If you have an accident and break the glass filter and your engine keeps running, you just lost your very nice pre-war car. That is a big safety issue. I then replaced the fuel line from the boost system forward to a point about under the pax seat. The steel line from forward was good. I ran the flex line with heater hose that just went around the flex line. Then I used electrical conduit clips to go around the hose to hold it so no vibration would chaff the line. I have pix if you want. If you are one of those guys who must be 100 % 1935, then my next item has a insulated cover around the fuel line after it leaves the pump to the carb. This minimizes a vapor locking of fuel . With the flex line from he tothe[pint under the. Pax seat, it let me run the fuel line easily and secured to the woof framing.
  6. If it has a crack, get a good one from Dave. ONLY IF you have no other option, then weld. I’m sure getting a good head and have it rebuilt with hardened seats for todays crap stuff the government calls gas. I just rebuilt my ‘38’. 248. It needed new guides, a few valves, springs were good and I made sure the water passages were clean. Its a good time to clean out the block. If nothing else, pull the rear freeze plug and scrape out the crud backed up in that area. When done, and the head is back on, run several rust eliminating products thru the engine to remove a bunch of the wonderful dark brown junk out of your engine. My second Buick I bought was - ok temp wise but I still I did the ole flush check. I ended up three cycles. First was dark brown liquid out of the block. The second cycle ended up a medium brown and with a third cycle it was only a light brown. Needless to say, I think no one addressed the rust build up in the past. The product came from Amazon and it was about $16.00 a bottle. I had bought 3 JIC. Yup, I used all three to remove a bunch of rust. Obviously the radiator was in each cycle.
  7. Measure the wheel mounting bolt center to center. The 40 series had a 5” bolt circle, 3” bolt to bolt. The 50 series had a 5-1/2” bolt circle with a bolt to bolt dimension of 3-1/4”. I believe the 60 and 80 series had the 6” bigger bolt circle. I have a 35-58 with the 3-1/4” bolt circle. The ‘35’ Buicks had the last year of mechanical brakes. So, if it has hydraulic brakes, they are probably ‘36’ parts. They bolt up and you can have the first year Buick had hydraulic stopping power. I’m in the process of converting to hydraulic brakes on my ‘35’. First, I live in an area where I would be destroyed trying to drive a car with mechanical brakes. Second, I drive my cars. Hydraulic brakes are not obvious if your a purest. Just like seat belts, I will have hydraulic stopping power to drive my cars. My first Buick is a ‘38-46S.
  8. Here are some views. ? 6 volt and 12 volt needed
  9. I needed to replace the light bulb in my Tripp Light. Source ? The only markings are Made in USA on the glass bulb itself and a #500 close to the glass.
  10. Recently, someone talked about this. He put two “Optma” 6 volts in parallel and ran the ground directly to the starter. He reports it starts like a 12 volt system and you don’t have to reset your generator. I would reset the generator to get more amperage now he has two 6 volt battery’s to keep up. I keep my battery’s on trickle chargers when not in use. I prefer to use the trickle chargers that electrically start with more amps and then as the battery get to the top, it changes to a ‘milliamp’ rate.
  11. Hi Jack, Having the Lloyd’s over drive makes removal of the over drive easy compared to before work. You can now remove the drive shaft / over drive / tranny / or clutch a much easier task. You don’t need to remove the rear end which is a real pain. Been there done that. The key is Lloyd’s 3” junction part just in front of the over drive. Putting my second over drive in my second Buick this month.
  12. Jack, It looks like you were able to get the right ratio for your governor. I remember when you were working on it. I miss ole Lloyd. No one is perfect but his ability to make adapters to utilize the Borg Warner over drive let’s many of us really enjoy our neat ole ‘30’s ‘ cars. I now have a ‘35-58’ Vicky Buick and I just came back from having over drive installed in it. I am now swapping the rear over to ‘37’ rear with the original 4.44 rear ratio. It will match my ‘38-46s’ coupe. That’s all, no more Buicks as my garage can only hold two cars. My wife has put up with me using my garage as a aircraft manufacturing shop for over 12 years ( three aircraft ) and now as my old car repair shop. What a great lady letting me keep both of our cars out side yearly. Glen Metzler is carrying on the needs to put Lloyd’s BW over drives. He has decided to improve on several things that needed to be improved on. Minor things but keeps things stronger and easier to assemble. One thing is the elimination of Chinese bearings. They were not good enough for the BW units. They were originally made in the USA. We closed the factory and moved it to China - sound like we’ve done that before. We got cheep but lesser quality in trade - - Not in my book !
  13. BTW, if you don’t want to crawl under your ole Buick (half the fun), Glen will do the conversion at his shop. He has had customers come from Canada and as far away as Arizona. (What a long drive ?). Some of us are getting “long of tooth” for these nice mod’s. Some of us just like driving our cars and do regular maintainance. Some are crazy like me and still like grease under the fingernails. (Assuming the wife tolerates it).
  14. Lloyd Young conversion : The Borg Warner OD was designed for the early 30’s up to the early 50’s. Two versions. Most were for cars and some for the later light trucks. Glen Metzler has taken over since Lloyd passed about 18 months ago. If the cost of Gear Vendors keeps you from enjoying your great Buicks, consider using Lloyd’s design. The Borg Warner is a 30 % over drive whereas Gear Venders is a ? 22% over drive.. Glens conversion runs about $ 2000.00. There is a vendor who has new OD solenoids if you don’t like original - old units.. (my choice). The BW Lloyd’s converted units don’t use the governor. Lloyd’s design was to simplify the BW unit so you could use it today and keep costs down. On my Buick Special 38-46s, I easily cruise 65 - 70 in local traffic. BTW, on my long trip I got 16.5 mpg driving on I-65 thru the hills of No Alabama and Tenn. I was not trying to get better mileage so I considered this nice. BTW, use ethanol free real gas in our cars. I’ve been able to get real gas all through the SE. Your ole straight 8 will thank you as that will give you better mileage over the crap gas the gov. pushes on us. More energy (btu’s) per gallon than ethanol blend. Another topic for future discussions.
  15. I gave up with the high temp’s and humidity here in Florida. I installed a 12k btu window A/C. Now I can work in relative comfort all summer. ( 76 and counting ). Getting old sucks - - -