Jump to content

Jim Nelson

Members
  • Posts

    542
  • Joined

  • Last visited

2 Followers

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Jim Nelson's Achievements

2,500+ Points

2,500+ Points (4/7)

  • Dedicated Rare
  • Very Popular Rare
  • Collaborator
  • Posting Machine Rare

Recent Badges

169

Reputation

  1. mine are ? Ford rims and are manuf. as a 5-1/2" bolt circle - 17" wheel. Our 50 series Buick wheel is 16"and has the 5-1'2" bolt circle. You have a 40 series wheel and has a 5" bolt circle with a 16" rim. Buick created at least 3 different bolt circle wheels in 1935. 40 series / 5" bolt circle, 50 aeries / 5-1/2" bolt circle, 60 series / w/ 6" bolt circle. Possible a bigger B.c. on the 80 series. What insanity when Buick was in the dumps in sales in 1935. It was one of my problems when I worked on my. 35-58 Buick. As you can see, it works. Now i need to buy 17" chrome rims like I have on my. 38-46s. With the chrome hub caps an chrome rims, it will look nice without buying white wall tires. Are you having any fun yet ? ?
  2. check your service manual. also, the buick listing for judging for shows and things like that. The judging listing from BCA. lists lots of things like that. I don't know - but if you go to that configuration, you will be very limited as to what spare tires will fit. My '37'. coupe had side mounts. and trying to find tires to fit inside the covers was a pain. My buddy had to let air out of the side mount spares to make it fit. JMHO, like mine, I'd leave it in the '5 wheel configuration'. I just put new tires on my '35' that were tubeless. But I also put on wire wheels. I had to instal 'wheel strips' to use inner tubes which I must use because the wheels won't let me use regular tubeless valves. The opening for the valves (tube type) is bigger than modern tubeless tire valves. So I found big enough inner tubes to fit etc. and the project moves on - -
  3. I was looking closely at the axel bearings and they might be needing replacing. Either its just grease and dirt or those races are not acceptable. Those inner races are fairly easily replaceable and with new outer rollers and inner and outer seals, your good. I've done several rear ends and these are parts that when replaced will give you + 75000 and more QUIET operation miles. I really don't like doing a job twice when I'm already there.
  4. Hi Bob, It looks like Lloyds work. It has been cut and put together and you can see the sprocket that is welded to the shortened drive shaft. That drive shaft needs to be cut to the original drive shaft dimension Did you get the chain coupling chain ? Its a double link chain. I think Lloyd used a #40 coupling chain. I have two of his OD's. My first is on my 38-46s coupe. love it and done long trips. My second in in my 35-58 Buick. With Lloyd gone, Glen is doing them using stock from Lloyds stuff. I think he is doing a better job of welding parts on. Plus, Lloyd used the old bearings if they seemed ok by Lloyd. I owned a bearings shop for 18 years so I'm picky about good bearings. Today, Glen uses much better bearings and 'new' ones. Glen was doing Lloyds mods for Loyd. So Glen knows what and how. I noticed the governor opening that needs to be closed off. Plus there is a sequence to keeping the OD filled. It must be lubricated with GL - #1. Do not use modern GL#5. the synchro's can not tolerate the more slippery lub. This goes for the synthetic lub. Rear and tranny will be fine with GL#5. What a difference driving with the OD. Again, check the length from the face of the pumpkin to the flange / drive shaft. If its to long, Send it to Glen with the corrected length and your god. My recommendation now that you have it apart is to check the pinion bearing now. Check your SM and they will tell you that the MAX clearance for the rear bearing is 0.0015". That is quite tight. Next, if that bearing is over the mac clearance, the front double row ball bearing will be beyond limits. Been there, done that. If you don't fix it now and you have a noisy rear, its take it apart and do it then. Next, I can guarantee the axel out board roller bearings have never been lubed since the factory did it. Now is the time to replace those bearings and seals. Now beats the hassle of replacing it later. Now is the time.... Glen is 614-571-4908 still in circleville Ohio.
  5. oooops, I just bumped the wrong key. My 37 and 38 had / have a dash mounted throttle. I use that when starting and keeping a cold engine running. When my water temp gage starts to rise, its warm enough to push it in and resume normal operation. So thats my operation and my '35' has the same set up now. I removed my twist octane selection unit on my dash. Now it works like a choke knob in the push / pull function. The '35' is now home but I'm working much slower now. I had mounted my 12 volt alternator on my regular '38' mounting bracket. I felt it was to close to the hood and wiring bundle. So I made a smaller / closer brace to move the alt.. closer to the block. I ended up making two others to get right , close enough. It is now where I think it should be. Working on mounting my LED strip lights that are for brake / running lights. I am making a brace to hold the strips just above the bottom of the rear window. This will be almost invisible as they are only 1/2" high. I hope to finish that next week.. Then I can legally drive it on the street.
  6. Anti-seize is the stuff. it come in a tube (small for your job) at your auto parts store. If I remember, alcohol or a solvent like that wii let you squirt the anti-seize on and into the shaft. Work the shaft while getting the stuff in/on the shaft. BTW, DO NOT GET IT ON YOU ! Its very hard or almost impossible to get off. I recommend using disposable gloves to - minimize - getting it on you. Its great stuff but be careful... I don't ever want mine to work. Its stuck / frozen in place and want it to remain thatway.
  7. Here are three pix of my 35-58 engine that I removed from my car. Tranny did not get taken at that time.
  8. Frank, My rear shocks are Delco and I got bushings from Steel Rubber corp. P/n 50-0087-33. I think my 'anti-roll bar had the same bushings. I had all shocks rebuilt by Apple Hydraulics . Rear shock were ~ $250 each and fronts were ~$450 each. Shocks are very important for handling ---. As important as brakes and tires. I'll find the pix of my 35-58 engine +.
  9. I guess I will take a look at my '38' rear oil. I put GL-5 in it so a hunting/checking I will go. Grimy, you're a wealth of .info. I was 'warned' about the GL-6 synthetic rear oils. I can find the GL-5 easily but GL-4 will require a bit of searching. .
  10. Ernie, I also got my ring gear for my '38' from Al. Around $300 + but its new and will last longer than I will.....
  11. Hi Frank. If you use 'GL-1 lub, you will be good. Its a 85w140 weight oil, or a 90w from Tractor supply has it in 2 gallon jugs. I used GL-5 in my rear. Since I needed GL-1 in my O.D. , I continued it in my tranny. I chose I believe you have synchro's and the modern GL-5 works. I need to use GL-1 because the overdrive units will sometimes want to disengage because the modern GL-5 is very slippery compared to GL-1. So you can use either. If you have any problems with the tranny gears wanting to not stay in, go back to GL-1. Our lub's today are far superior to the lib's of the thirties. Its what I've learned and I will continue that way. Love your 34 coupe, I'm jelouse (spelling problem )....
  12. Hi Ernie, It seems that Buick made the change for 1939 across the whole line of Buick engines. I have a '38' special. '35' Buicks up to 1938 small engines were the same. But they changed something for '39 engines. I got a '53' 263 engine and the ring gear was different from the '38' flywheel.. Other than number of teeth between the 248/263 engines and the 320 engines I did not find the difference. I think the clutch pressure plate also was changed for '39' - 248 engine. So something changed across the Buick straight 8 engines lines. I bumped into a machinist in Mich. who had them for sale. Not cheep but the options are not good. I think I paid around $300 for my '38' ring gear. I believe he had them made up for us owners that needed to replace worn out gears. There is the old wives tales that say you could flip the gear and run on the back side. Nope, don't do it. The leading edge is machined to allow for correct gear to gear engagement. If you tried using the back side, you will have issues only a gear guy can answer.
  13. Check with Dave Tacheny in Minnesota and see what he might have. Just getting a regular tranny crank and bell housing assuming your top side is good. You know from the rods and up. Lots of possibilities to keep your cost down and into a standard tranny. Whew ! ! I feel lucky when I bought a 263 that had already been partially completed for my '38'.
  14. The original flywheel is designed by Buick engineers to have a smooth operation. Quicker acceleration is not the issue. If you want quicker, then instal a 1955 nail head V8 and be done with it. Or as one chap suggested, put in a Chevy and modernize the drive train with open drive shaft. My 52 Buick 263 with over drive gets me down the road in fine shape. With the 'normal' heavy traffic, I get from stop light to stop light with every one else. On the fast roads, I easily cruise 65 mph all day. Fast enough to not be run over. The only mod. I felt I needed living in Florida was air conditioning to keep these old retired bones comfortable. That system was relatively hidden so it amazes many that I had a/c. Have fun - - -
  15. Yup, call Gene Phillips at 1-765-642-4088. He should be able to help you. I've seen it and its a very nice car. With the 3.4 rear, you can really travel comfortably. I have a 38-46s with over drive and I feel the same. Keeping up with traffic (unless your a fast traveling guy) with the big engine is a pleasure.
×
×
  • Create New...