Jim Nelson

JMHO, but if you are going to drive in the evening or early morning, modern lighting is - from a safety point, stay with the modern lightning. Either go to a modern alternator (70 + amps ) which is painted black or get one of those alternators that are identical in looks but are modificated to be an alternator but also put out the same output. Have you found out if the wiring has been upgraded ? Old wiring is a serious problem waiting to happen . Yes, I modifided my 1938-46s and I'm glad I did. I was taking a trip and I got caught out as the sun was going down. So I got home safely. My latest Buick has been converted to 12 volts and the alternator a modern 70 Amp unit but bought painted black so it looks original. I have used more LED's but you can not tell easily. Again, just my humble opinion. I drive my Buicks - so these things were needed to be done.

This is why I have a fuel boost pump in the back. All I do is flip the boost pump on and listen for the pump to slow down telling me the carb is full. Then I give the throttle a singe pump which put gas down into the manifold and hit the starter. Kicks right off. Winter May require two pumps. I changed my adjustable ignition advance control from a rotation to a push/ pull cable so I can add throttle to have a higher throttle setting unti the engine is warmed and then push it forward to set the idle back. That procedure has worked for me no matter where I've been. Pix if needed. The key is the boost pump back by the gas tank.

You will need to search to find which stores do it. Mine was a store that sold nuts and bolts for automotive application. If you need the store type that does it for cars - let me know as I pass close mine by when going to my shop. Spray cans have little paint in them. They have propellant that takes up a bunch of space. Usually the can has about 10 % product and 90 % propellant . So it's an expensive choice. In my 'other world' I kept our 'gas houses' running or designing new ones. They used several flamable gasses. Propane, Butane, iso butane etc.

If you get a small can of that paint, you get the cheepest cost per volume. Then I took it to my Sherwin Williams store that will take it and put it in an aerosol can. That gives you the best looking finish and you will have the most paint left. The SW store that will do this does not charge much to put the enamel into an aerosol can. I created 4 or 5 spray can as necessary over 9 months resulting in low cost and not feel bad about having to throw away cans that got clogged up.

Try Steele. I used them to rebuild my shock links on my 35-58 Vicky. I used Apple Hydraulics to rebuild my shocks. Not cheep but should outlast you. Shocks will make you car ride and handle like it should the way Buick designed them..

I used the copper gaskets vs the 'other' cheeper version. They alone allow for movement.

Greg, How about a pix of your 35-40 series manifold and the other one. That newer one you have has the heat riser tube to provide heat for your choke assembly. Since you live in Florida - you don't need a choke. Having a second throttle to hold the engine around 1500 when you first start and then you slowly push in that throttle until your regular foot feed takes over. I have gotten rid of that automatic choke assembly because we don't need it down here. I took the cable from the dash that was suppose to manually adjust the ignition retard or advance and the 50 series helps that. Moving the end from the distributor end and replacing it with a normal push/pull lawn mower cable has worked for me. See my pix of the secondary throttle control far left side.

Ooops, so sorry. The 30's cars went to fuel pumps and my brain did not get far enough back to log it in...... My apologies. But just in case the vacuum tank system failed, could using a electrical pump help. Just thinking out loud - - -. I don't like the issue of having a break down away from home. It sucks ! (and it's embarrassing a little) . Options are nice !

Also, buy a 1938 service manual. Its full of what and how to keep your 'Buick' running.

If you are using a 12 volt electrical system you are in the right ball park. BUT there are several versions and you must use the correct pump. If you are using a 6 volt system use Airtex E8011. If you are using a 12 volt system, use Airtex E801 S. These pumps will give you the low pressure you must use. I also use a plastic - 'see thru' filter just before the electric pump. P/N. Purolater F 20-11. I have bought my pumps thru Walmart and at a good price. They will send it to your closest store or mail it to you. Your filter is readily aviable from your local auto parts store. Next, keeping the pump - in the back and level with the bottom of the tank with the filter in the front - tank side of the pump will give you just the right flow and pressure so you won't flood the carb. This way if your 'normal' system fails, turning on the 'hidden electric pump' will keep you going until you get where you can repair the original fuel supply. I've had a regular pump fail while driving on a 6 lane - semi-limited access road and pulled off to see why my engine quit. I found the fuel pump main shaft backing part way out causing the pump to stop. I just turned on my boost pump and drove home and got a new mechanical regular pump. That alone was worth the price of the system - no towing this time.

Getting a knowledgeable mechanical guy who understands our pre-war cars will be a small problem. First - where are you located. Then finding a Buick club will get you started. BTW, a Ford model 'A' club will help. Then the clubs will help finding a mechanic who understands our '35' car. When you find someone, you need to get one who the club knows the who / what / how to make it happen. You might need to take it some distance to get to a good mech. All the little details. Next travel to see him and his shop. Bring with you your service manual so he can see what he is going to be fixing / repairing. In my world, having the 40 series Buick makes his job a lot easier when working on the cooling system, engine systems, clutch. The brake system is something else. There are several companies who can sell you (soft) brake material for max. braking. Modern material is harder and set up for power brakes. The modern material will be OK, just realize you will need to use more effort to stop. Then finding someone who can / will grind - match the drums and brake shoes. together. I believe it's called 'matching'. I live in the Tampa / St. Pete area ( 1 million + ) and there is only one guy who can / will do it in our area. Our world is really a simple mechanical world that technology moved past us. Learning to work there is just old time mechanical stuff. Getting started is as simple as taking one step at a time. JMHO. (Just 80 and still learning ) 😃 😃

Pay close attention to mechanical brakes. They are unique and require 'different' attention. It not 'rocket science' but different. When you get there, try and find someone who has a car with mech. brakes to begin your education. There are many of us who 'been there, done that' and will be straight shooter with knowledge. There will be some who want you to remain exactly as it came from the factory. Then there are some who will help you get a fun car so driving safely is paramount. So you need to listen to both sides and decide what you want and can afford. You want to talk to those who actually drive their cars and don't just trailer them to shows. My club '36 - 38' Buick club in the BCA umbrella , is one of those type. We drive 1 - 2 - maybe 300 miles to just get where our tour begins. So we pay attention on keeping our car in good shape. Being a mid-Floridan, it takes me 200 miles just to get out of Florida. My longest trip was Tampa Fl. to Nashville Tn. and it was 1800 miles round trip. I had a '38-46s' coupe then and I added over drive to let me drive 6 - 7 hours a day, at 65 mph. (2350 rpm ). You probably have the same rear ratio (I will look it up) as mine. It is a 4.88 - 1 rear. That makes your car a 45 mph car. If you chose to go with an over drive, it will give you a 3.41 - 1 rear and let you go about 55 to 60 mph. Should not be a 'speed bump' that way. Most every one I listen to is they want to go faster than factory design. So do not be surprised how slow your car is ... Note, do no plan to run your engine in cruise over 2400 to 2500 rpm. Our engines will not tolerate more rpm. When you look thru your `SM' and look over the torque and rpm and horse power curves, you will see where it wants to work. We have low rpm with high torque. I have a 248 engine in my '35-58' and even with my 38-46s I won't go over 3000 rpm ... to only pass a slow poke. BTW, with my OD, I get 16 mpg. So opinions are many. Listen and decide what you want to do. BTW, those few dents and stuff is easy to fix using a 'real body man. No plastic (bondo fi ! ! Do it right the first time ! Again - JMHO.....

Its good you have original wheels. Is your spare just like the ones on the car? To many guys put non-standard fancy wheels on their '35's. Sold the originals so you are good. I'll check around and see where I found the data on mounting the spare. I believe Steele Rubber has them. Pretty sure. Do not try to start your car until you go thru the list on starting a car that has been in storage for a while.

Nope, it should be parallel to the body. I have a spare on the back of mine. If you need details, I can do pix and measurements. Right now I have the spare off to give you the jest of the mount.. with a rumble seat, the angles are slightly different. Steele Rubber has new ones available so only you need to do is give them is 'make' , model so you will get correct angle rubber bushings. Shoot there are 3 slightly different gas rubber bushing where gas goes down into the tank.. I guessing you have a '35 - 46' Buick. That says yours was made in 1935 and was built as a three window coupe and had a rumble seat. Note the 'stepping' pads to assist a person to get into the rumble seat. Hopefully they are OK. Those would be very hard to find. BTW, take lots of pix of every thing you touch prior to removing etc. That way you can go back to what you did etc. I probably took around 6-700 pix of what I did to my 38-46s. Memory fades and pix bring it back. Real important. I installed a/c in my 38 along with over drive. Any questions - I have them and pix to go with them.

This might give you what mine has mounted to. I think your will be tipped more forward at the top. I think Steele gave you details of where each style came together with angles etc. Get familiar with parts catalog from 'CARS' from New Jersey, Bob's Automobilia in California. Just a start ! ! Your spare tire cover is adjustable for wider tires. If you were unfortunate to have 'side-mounts' on the front fenders - you will have a difficult time trying to fit skinny tires in the tire covers in the side mount covers.