Jim Nelson

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About Jim Nelson

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  1. Over drive gives you a car with 4 forward speeds. Nothing changes with the original three speeds. Then over drive kicks in with the 4th gear and you drive at ? Normal ? Traffic speeds ? I use my OD at speeds of 40 mph and greater. Easy to do.
  2. Sell the 3.90 gear set and go back to the standard 4.44 rear. There are people looking for 3.90 gears so you would get a good price. Helps to cover the cost to add over drive. Then send the third member to Glen. About a week later, it would be heading back to you to instal. The hook up is simple with electrical and mechanical cable (on / off function ). I would give you my method so you wouldn’t have to re-invent the wheel as the saying goes. I would highly recommend you replace the pinion bearings while you add the over drive. Those two bearings get worn out and become noisy. This is easy to do as Glen has to take it apart at that point. The rear roller bearing needs replacing because it goes bad and along with that, the front double ball bearing goes also. Read about the replacement and why in your service manual. It takes very little bearing wear on the roller bearing to require replacement. E-mail me if you want details. oldbuickjim@gmail.com. Phone works as I’m retired.
  3. Well, changing to a 3.90 almost makes it a roadable car. It becomes a 60 mph car. Still to slow for the traffic in my area. I need to do up to 65 mph just to keep from becoming a speed bump. I’m very prejudice as the original 4.44 rear makes it a perfect rear to put over drive in it. I have a ‘38’ coupe with over drive and it makes it a perfect roadable car. It now has a final ratio of 3.11. This lets me drive 2350 rpm and go 65 mph. I do 2550 and get 70 mph with the over drive. Perfect for our low rpm high torque engines. I’ve taken trips of over 1800 miles and got 16 mpg on all day runs. Tampa Fl to Nashville TN. And back. I just bought a ‘35’ Vicky and I’m putting over drive in it. Even if you did nothing else to the ‘35’ series 50 Vicky it still gives me a final ratio of 3.41. (Original is a 4.88 ratio, a 45 mph cruise ) With my conversion completed, it gives me a nice 60 mph + cruise / roadable car. (2450 rpm for 60 mph.). My personal limits is to cruise no more than 2500 rpm for a all day drives. Your engine will love you for it. The guy who does the conversions is in Circleview OH. I’ve known him for 5+ years and he does excellent work. He uses the old time true Borg Warner over drive units. 6 volt or 12 volt operation. Details if you want. BTW, it costs about $2000 for the conversion.
  4. So, Are you interested in the radiator I found ? It will require core work. I’m sure he would sell it. He has a good one but I don’t know if he would sell it. Give me a call and lets chat about the details on this. 727-251-6261 almost any day after noon till 9 ish.
  5. If you can not find a radiator, I ran across a friend Ralph Becamp who has a 35 coupe. A very pretty car - show condition. Anyway, he says he has a radiator back in MD / VA that he is bringing back here. He is in Lecanto Fl. about 80 miles north of me in Clearwater. So, this might be a source in case you can not repair yours. One of his is twisted a bit from a accident way back. The top and bottom may be good enough by just replacing the 3" core and your home free. Plus a new core with modern core cooling will do a better job of cooling. They now use a textured tube for the water to reduce the surface friction so water is cooled better. There is a temperature gradient on the water in the tubes that runs from the very interior surface to the center of the tube. The new tubes have a 'rough' surface on the interior to minimize the stagnant water next to the tube itself to the center of the tube. Ya, I'm a bit weird but that is how it works. I use the ole shark skin example. They are rough but the shark is one of the fastest fish in the ocean. Their surface has a very low surface friction thus a fast fish. I found out ( via my service manual ) that our radiators are 3" core thickness and the 40 series radiator has surface area of 425 sq in. If you have a 35-50 series (which I have ) I have a 3" core with a surface area of 437 sq in. Good surface area so they cooled our '35' cars pretty well. Now for the weirdness of Buick - - - I have a '38' 46 series with the standard radiator - that the factory only had a 2 core radiator / and only 389 sq in. surface area. The '37" 40 series also had the same radiator. Now, WHY would Buick use a smaller radiator on the bigger 248 engine when Buick used a bigger radiator on a smaller engine (233 cu in. ) 80 HP. Smaller HP means less BTU's to reject in the radiator. The 248 engine had around 100 hp and thus needed to reject increased cooling to survive. I changed my smaller 248 radiator for the bigger (320 cu in. ) which has a 3" core. I'm in pretty good shape. BTW, for those who need additional cooling, change the 37 -38 radiators to a three core and move it about 1" forward. Need to - - - - for fan spacing. I love my service manual you NEED TO HAVE ONE and read it. Just like the radiator issue. Lots of trivia but it makes us having a good driving car. I have a 34/35 service manual , and a digital '36' SM, a '37' SM, '38' SM a '47' SM and a '54' SM. I've rebuilt rear ends, ring and pinions because they have a very tight wearing issue. The rear pinion bearing (usually a roller bearing) can only have .0005 to .0015 sloppyness. And if the bearing is that loose (? ?) the front double row bearing is also going to be bad.. Isn't this a great forum for information ?
  6. Do you have seal beam head lights ? Or are they the 7” ones ? My 50 series has the 7” lights. I’ve taken them apart and the buld is stuck in the reflector. I will work on it. The reflectors need to be re-silvered. I read a few years back of a different reflector material in place of silver. I will check them out when I find them. I am going to replace the single circuit parking light (inside the main light enclosure). with a dual circuit socket so I can have turn signals. This was done on my ‘38’ bullet parking light assembly's. I’m having toooo much fun..
  7. The name of the radiator shop in Tampa is : Guarantee Radiator. I believe they are on Bush blvd on the north side of Tampa. 813-932-4371 . They do everything from small car stuff to big industrial radiators . Is your engine block clean ? Amazon has a product called ”Thermocure” that I have used. I had a ‘37’ special that I got with no history. I bought three bottles. The first run thru gave me VERY dark water indicating the coolant had reacted with a-lot of rust. My second run thru gave me a lighter brown coolant. SomI ran a third batch and the coolant was fairly light brown. So it was a reasonably good chemical that removed a lot but probably still not as good as pulling the freeze plugs and scrapping removing some that way. Then, there is the expensive way by having the block hot tanked. As my friend says, “LAYS YOUR MONEY DOWN AND TAKES YOUR CHANCES”.
  8. 35buickakabelle - - - I’m north of you and we have a real “old timer” radiator shop in Tamps. I had them rebuild my 40 series 248 radiator and they did it right. I was able to go in their shop and see how etc. I next needed a 60 series radiator disassembled and cleaned up. You know, mouse nests etc. they again rebuilt it and it does a good job. If you bring it to them, so they can see it, I’m sure they car get you back working. The mounting brackets are the important pieces. Custom shapes compared to a regular radiator. I’m going to replace my ‘35’ - 58 radiator with my ‘38’ - 46 radiator. Of course, I'll need the mounting brackets to swap. But, the brackets can be duplicated and mounted on a 40 series radiator. My 40 series radiator is more normally configured compared to a 50 series radiator with the wierd thernomer position and return pipe and other .... If you are interested, let me know. ‘Oldbuickjim@gmail.com’.
  9. Right hand drive.? I have the ‘35’ 58 series Vicky. Its in pretty good shape. I see you have chrome rings on your wheels. Nice! Mine are bare. I guess I will have to get a set. My wheels are the color of the body (usually matching). It is a yellowish tan color with light brown fenders. Buick call it “Pony brown”. In 1935, Buick only had two colors for the 58 series. A dark green and Pony Brown. Throw in old style white walls that are really more yellow in color with the yellowish painted wheels and that makes the wheels not my favorite part. A set of chrome rings would help set the wheels off. Your car is very nice looking. Did you do a restoration on it ? I like coupes / 2 door cars. I just got a set of 50 series wire wheels. They are a dark blue. Maybe a Buick color ? That would make an interesting color combo with white wall tires. Does your car have the vacuum assisted brake on it ?
  10. I just took my ‘35’ Buick lens off to prepare for new bulb’s. The reflector is not the ‘silver’ polished type that my ‘38’ has. This is a dull aluminum color. They seem original but they seem to have not been used as the wiring was - totally junk. The bulbs are “stuck” in their sockets. I have tried to remove them (with a leather glove on to protect my hand ) but no joy. Any thoughts on bulb removal ?
  11. Yes, going to a SS shaft is a good thing. BUT, SS is softer than regular 1018 steel. Considering the time in service, I would go the SS route. Barrs Leak is a anti-corrosion / lubricant that provides the protection needed. Your machinist (you have one don’t you ?). uses a coolant / lubricant when he is turning parts on his lathe. Its a water solvent lubricant / corrosion inhibiter. I believe Barrs Leak just uses the same stuff. Going to a mechanical seal is good but the housing needs to be modified to accept one. Considering the cost of the mod’s and the hours you would need to do it, IMHO, I would go the SS shaft route. When you make the new shaft, make two. Use a 400 series SS as its stronger. .316 SS is ok but softer I think . (Memory starts fading after 30 - - :-)). ). Barrs Leak is available at Walmart. It goes for $2.05 lately. Use the Walmart web and buy at least 3 bottles. Spares you know. Maybe 4. Their stock number is #555989010. “Barrs Leak - p/n 1311 “. That should keep you out of trouble for many years. If weather - freezing type - is an issue, you need to use anti-freeze. Isn't this fun, Us old folks have forgotten how much we needed to do to keep our cars running in good shape. But you are paying for that.
  12. Well, I have had a 37, and 38. You need to get a piece of 0.025 aluminum that covers the back side if your radiator. This will keep you from punching a hole in it when you do an “damn it” maneuver. The bolts that hold the fan to the water pump should ( ? ) come out the back of the flange around 1/8” or so. Not much. So the bolts don’t have to move toward the radiator very much to disconnect. Get a small ratching wrench or a long open ended to fit the bolt. Never enough room but you can do it. Get a friend with small hands or a neighbor kid with small hands to start the bolts for assembly. There is an advantage to having a fan with the center that is set back. Blades come closer to the radiator for better air control. Don’t forget to have the fan belt loosened and backed away from the front.
  13. The leaking needs to be occurring while its in operation. When the engine stops, the leaking will stop. With no pressure in the system when stopped, it should stop. When operating, pressure in the system needs to be enough to cause the water to come out around the packet shaft. The most important thing is it must leak when operating. This is where tighting the packing gland is important. Just enough to do the job but not to much. This is why they designed the mechanical seal. Note the changes in the water pump bearings during the thirties. From brass bushing to ball bearings. Progress !
  14. With the car running up to temps, you should see just a small dribble coming from the pump. Ya, I know - what is a dribble. As long as there is “some” liquid weeping out of the shaft / packing / packing nut, you will be ok. I always keep a gallon jug in the trunk JIC. You need to check your water level before you go any place. Its like checking your oil level before you go. Our old cars needed to be tended to all the time. Todays cars are so nice that you usually only need oil when you change and very rairly add water / antifreeze. Our old cars were very well built considering the time and engineering available then. Hang around some old ? guys who drive our pre-war cars and ask questions. I would say that all of them will have opinions on keeping their car running dependably. Where do you live ? North or south ? Need antifreeze ? That will get you going in the right direction. The only dumb question is the one you did not ask. These forum’s are amazing in what they know.....
  15. JMHO, I have a 1938-46 S coupe. I bought mine with the knowledge that I would need to use an over drive to drive it. I live in Florida and drive in traffic. You need to be able to drive 60 / 65 mph any time I use my Buick. With my over drive , I have taking trips up to over 1800 miles round trip to Tenn. a few years ago. Plus, installing over drive is the most reasonable cost wise to get your Buick up to speed in traffic. My OD system cost me $ 2000.00 approx ready to go. If you are interested, e-mail me for details : oldbuickjim@gmail.com BTW, I got 16 mpg on my Tenn trip. (60 - 65 mph all day). Finding 3.90 gears is difficult plus getting the gears “set up” at the end. If your car runs nicely, then doing the rear (with OD) puts you on the road with confidence.