JohnD1956 Posted October 9, 2016 Author Share Posted October 9, 2016 Looks like this repair has lead to the edge of that slippery slope Ben mentioned. Yesterday I found that the rope seal in the kit was 1/2 inch too short before it was pressed into the channel. Also discovered the oil pump cover was cracked. Today I concentrated on the battery cable. Note to self: If this car needs another positive cable, I'm sending this thing out to a garage for that procedure. Basically this engine is stuffed into this frame so tightly, I had to drop the trans inspection cover, to drop the starter, just to get to that second bolt holding the channel to the block. This is where the slippery slope comes in. If it had been any garage I'd be driving again by now, but no, Instead it took me 7 hours just to get the old cable out, clean a few parts, and put the new cable in. And regardless of the cost and assurance the new cables would be exactly the same as my original cable, well, that didn't happen. Extracting the wire channel: And not a day too soon either. Another potential road hazard The old vs new. That plastic housing has no opening to get the old cable out. The cable must have been fished through before the ends were put on. But regardless of how they got it in, it definitely was not moving out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted October 9, 2016 Author Share Posted October 9, 2016 Now at first I thought I would just lay the new cable into the metal channel. I figured that's why that black insulation was on there. But that metal clip on the new cable was not loose. It was fixed, and it provided insulation right where the A/C lines traverse. So after agonizing over this while prepping some parts for paint, I finally decided to cut the old cable out of the channel. So out comes the Dremmel. It's not pretty, but the cable is out. And it's still not pretty, but it's functional: It did take quite a while to get this all back together. The hardest part was twisting the end at the starter once it was in the car. It's not just a straight run it. It took an S turn to get it aligned. I just do not have the strength to do this much more. But I got it done and reinstalled the trans inspection cover: For now it's down off the jack stands. Next week I have to dig into my spare parts to find my extra oil pump cover. Hope I can find it. BTW, you may recall that I purchased this vehicle in 2003 from someone who parked it in their garage for six years, facing into their dryer exhaust vent. Here's a picture of the lower pulley which is covered with the lint I could not get off with the wire brush! x 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 Maybe try some Evapo-Rust? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted October 9, 2016 Author Share Posted October 9, 2016 I meant to pick some up, but forgot. I'll try to get some next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 For a simple method of removing rust and getting everything down to good metal, try a 1:9 ratio of molasses to water. Just let it soak. Molasses at your local feed store costs way less than Evaporust. And you delute it rather than using it full strength. One gallon of Evaporust vs.ten gallons of molasses solution, no brainer. Check it out on YouTube. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 ...and when finished, use the residual to add to your morning coffee. Sweetens your cup o' Joe and provides your body 1000x the iron found in a case of spinach! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted October 10, 2016 Author Share Posted October 10, 2016 More cleaning and prep work today. Found my spare oil pump cover. Also found I need two of the long timing chain bolts, the ones that go through where the water pump is. I hope I have those, but that's gonna take some serious searching. Meanwhile, while it's already out, I brought the radiator for a boil and clean out and any possible repairs. I have not had any trouble with this radiator since I had it re-cored with a 4 row core back in the mid 2000's, but I just don't want to take it apart again. Heard from the cable manufacturer. I was thinking that the cable may have been made with aluminum wire, which I only noticed as I was hooking up the end to the starter. So I e mailed the service address. The answer I got was the cable is made of copper 2 gauge, and the end by the starter is dip soldered, giving it an aluminum look. At any rate I slathered the Oxyguard on it when putting it together, so that should just be insurance. Now, to find those darn bolts!!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted October 13, 2016 Author Share Posted October 13, 2016 After digging through to the last can of miscellaneous vehicle hardware I've kept, I finally found two of the long water pump bolts. Enough to get through this job, but they really did not look much better. So off to the local hardware stores. The one parts book I have identified these bolts as 5/16th- 18 X 4 3/8. They are flanged bolts too. What I did not expect is that they are #8 bolts. After two stops I was directed to a Fastenal Store, where I got some #8, standard hex cap, bolts 1/8th inch longer, and appropriate sized washers. I'll change all 4. I also picked up a tap to clean up the threads before reassembly. So just waiting on the FelPro people and my radiator. If I can't get the proper length rope seal, the local NAPA can get me a rubber front seal in a day, so there are alternatives. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 2 hours ago, JohnD1956 said: local NAPA can get me a rubber front seal in a day, so there are alternatives. Go for it. In this case the lip seal will work...even on you 56. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted "Wildcat65" Nagel Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 Looks familiar- my 68 GS400 convertible was built with all great parts, but felt el sluggo off the line. I predicted the cam was retarded from optimum. Pulled apart and found the 3 keyway gear was indeed in 4* retard position. Ended up in the 0* position; but with cam having 4* advance it was right on and sure makes a difference. The Seat Of Pant-O-Meter showed a 99% improvement. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted October 18, 2016 Author Share Posted October 18, 2016 I want to believe in what you report Ted. Of course, in this case I am dealing with the original timing chain set, not an indexed one. Today I mounted the new chain set. Now, I can't really tell where this set is made. But here's a picture of the label. With not much else to go on, I'm assuming at least the box was made in the USA. But the gear set seems to be a decent composition and finish. And I do have this same set in the Electra, which seems to run excellent! Anyway, just for my own curiosity I measured across the cam gear. I wanted to see if the nylon was worn down: I was surprised to see the new gear was .004 smaller than the nylon one. This indicates the slack was all in the chain. Anyhow, the new gear seems to be at least as substantial as the original one. Mounting the assembly I discovered that the cam gear and cam shaft flange were off just a smidge. I could get one bolt to make about 3/4 turn. Rather than drive that bolt in, I decided to rotate the crank shaft. Well, that turned into the need to loosen all the spark plugs, cause I just did not have the strength to fight the 10.25-1 compression ratio. It was at this point that I realized this engine has no business being in this small compartment with a factory a/c unit! To be honest with myself, I knew this from before, but now that I'm ( a'chem) more mature, I guess I am just annoyed with having to have an assortment of extensions, ratchets and universals to address the front and rear plug on the passengers side. Add to that the battery cable situation and it's obvious this is a shoe horn fitment job! But it is a sweet one just the same. I decided it was just a good excuse to put a fresh coat of dielectric grease on the spark plug boots! So, without any further ado, as soon as the seal in here, I'll be wrapping this situation up. By the way, note the 2nd chain link from the bottom on the left side of the crank. USA made! No offense to our Buick brothers in other parts of the world, but I found this comforting. Hope I get a chance to road test this before the snow flies. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted October 21, 2016 Author Share Posted October 21, 2016 Fel pro people sent me a new gasket kit with the proper sized seal. So I went to pull off the cracked oil pump cover and immediately found I could not budge the first bolt. So I sent the kit, and both covers to the Mechanic I use when I just don't want to deal with something. Turns out three of the bolts on the factory cover broke, and one took another chunk out of the original cover too. I was glad I brought it to them to begin with. So, today I moved forward. Primed the oil pump with Vaseline. Right up to the port on the block: Ran a coat of grease around the crank seal, also put a coat on the balancer where it meets this seal. While I was advised I could put the gasket on dry,, as long as there were no imperfections on the cover or block surfaces, I just put a thin layer of form-a-gasket 2B around the water jacket holes. I really do not want to pull this apart again. Black RTV at the oil pan to cover/block joint And on it went. Two other things. I sacrificed a piece of cardboard to paint the bolts. This allowed me to keep them in their original position. Also, considering how much trouble I had getting some of these bolts out, I used a 5/16 drill bit by hand to clean all the bolt hole passages, and then out of an abundance of caution, each bolt received sealer on the threads and antisieze on the shaft, to help if this ever has to come off again. Here's where it's at when I stopped today. Not much left for tomorrow, so I hope to start it up soon, just in time for the cold weather this weekend. Ugh! x 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 Hey John, do they provide a gasket for the front 'lip' of the oil pan as part of the timing set gasket kit? Or, did you make your own, or use RTV...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted October 21, 2016 Author Share Posted October 21, 2016 The kit included a piece of gasket for the front of the pan. It's not visible in the picture because I cemented it to the bottom of the cover. I had a bit of trouble getting that aligned when I did this job on the 72, so this time I glued it in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 On 10/17/2016 at 7:40 PM, JohnD1956 said: I want to believe in what you report Ted. Of course, in this case I am dealing with the original timing chain set, not an indexed one. Today I mounted the new chain set. Now, I can't really tell where this set is made. But here's a picture of the label. With not much else to go on, I'm assuming at least the box was made in the USA. But the gear set seems to be a decent composition and finish. And I do have this same set in the Electra, which seems to run excellent! Anyway, just for my own curiosity I measured across the cam gear. I wanted to see if the nylon was worn down: I was surprised to see the new gear was .004 smaller than the nylon one. This indicates the slack was all in the chain. Anyhow, the new gear seems to be at least as substantial as the original one. Mounting the assembly I discovered that the cam gear and cam shaft flange were off just a smidge. I could get one bolt to make about 3/4 turn. Rather than drive that bolt in, I decided to rotate the crank shaft. Well, that turned into the need to loosen all the spark plugs, cause I just did not have the strength to fight the 10.25-1 compression ratio. It was at this point that I realized this engine has no business being in this small compartment with a factory a/c unit! To be honest with myself, I knew this from before, but now that I'm ( a'chem) more mature, I guess I am just annoyed with having to have an assortment of extensions, ratchets and universals to address the front and rear plug on the passengers side. Add to that the battery cable situation and it's obvious this is a shoe horn fitment job! But it is a sweet one just the same. I decided it was just a good excuse to put a fresh coat of dielectric grease on the spark plug boots! So, without any further ado, as soon as the seal in here, I'll be wrapping this situation up. By the way, note the 2nd chain link from the bottom on the left side of the crank. USA made! No offense to our Buick brothers in other parts of the world, but I found this comforting. Hope I get a chance to road test this before the snow flies. What does the gear measure between the teeth. Isn't that where the chain rides; not on the top of the teeth? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted October 21, 2016 Author Share Posted October 21, 2016 I thought the chain rode on the top. But now it seems that you're right. I did not measure between the teeth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 Will you prime the pump before you start cranking it? I always spin it just a touch by hand to make sure it's not in a bind, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted October 21, 2016 Author Share Posted October 21, 2016 The pump is primed with Vaseline. I did have to move it a little to align the slot for the distributor, but I did not spin it. That's a good thought though. I should have done that! Damn! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 The pump is packed with vaseline, but is not primed until it has oil going from the pan through the pickup tube, and into the pump. You'll probably be ok, but using a priming tool before you stab the distributor in is good insurance to verify oil pressure before spinning the entire rotating assembly. It could take 10, 20, 30 seconds before the pump primes on its own. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted October 21, 2016 Author Share Posted October 21, 2016 You're right. I'll pull the distributor and prime the pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 On 10/6/2016 at 11:29 PM, JohnD1956 said: ...But over the years another annoying aspect of this car was what seemed to be a lack of testosterone off the line. I went through various things listed above, and nothing really seemed to help. Essentially I think this car ought to be able to burn rubber off the line by just stomping the gas pedal. But it doesn't. I didn't know if it was mechanical or emotional. I still have problems just stomping the gas pedal. I'm always afraid I'll break something I can't afford to fix. But in the last year I have gotten a little more aggressive and it will break the non posi rear free if I manage to overcome my fear and get the gas pedal down far enough. Yet, it just did not seem right. So one day I popped off the distributor cap and rotated the crank manually to see how much slack I had in the timing chain. It seemed to me that there was a good half inch movement of the breaker bar before the rotor would move. So for the last year I have driven it conservatively while getting ready to change the timing chain. Today I started disassembly. ( to be continued) John, you may be on the right track here as far as diagnosis of the 'lazy' low-end power. See the article below: http://www.agriculture.com/content/four-most-likely-causes-of-a-weak-gas-engine 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted October 22, 2016 Author Share Posted October 22, 2016 It's alive! I did pull the distributor and primed the oil pump. Then finished reassembly which went pretty easy. Even though I marked my distributor before the initial removal, my neighbor Gerry, who is an accomplished auto mechanic hobbyist, pointed out that the orientation of the distributor was such that the vacuum advance was just about laying on the thermostat by pass hose. While advancing the timing would pull the unit away from the hose, any need to retard the timing would wind up touching the hose. So after analyzing the best orientation I pulled the distributor again and moved everything a few degrees counter clockwise. This worked out well. So it starts with the twist of the key again, and I still need to finalize the timing setting. Also there is some sort of blockage in the return heater hose. Maybe an air bubble? At any rate I need to resolve that, and then it's done. BTW, there is a chance of snow tomorrow! And the top's still down! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted October 23, 2016 Author Share Posted October 23, 2016 Initial timing today indicated TDC, @580 RPM in Drive, no vac advance. which is the factory setting. Checked that the mechanical weights worked and were consistent. Advanced the timing to +2*, and took a test drive. Don't bother popping the corn. The attached video is less than 2 min long. Its a GS again! Yahoo! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buicknutty Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 Congrats John! It sounds great! Keith 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 Definitely has a nice Buick big block burble! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dei Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 Really nice John! You have the best of both worlds, the GS 'Hot Rod' and the Electra bankers 'Hot rod'. BEAUTIFUL! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted October 24, 2016 Author Share Posted October 24, 2016 6 hours ago, dei said: Really nice John! You have the best of both worlds, the GS 'Hot Rod' and the Electra bankers 'Hot rod'. BEAUTIFUL! In all these years I never really thought of it that way Dei. Thanks for a new vision. Grampa's hotrod in the 56 too! I had the GS out for a longer ride today. What a difference! I think it might be one of my favorites! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 Woohoooo, I HEARD IT!!! Good job with that timing belt JD, man I love that car. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 On 10/3/2016 at 9:21 AM, JohnD1956 said: PBS Brake & Supply Corp. 6044 Corporate Dr East Syracuse, New York 1-315-463-4541 1-800-252-2271 FAX 1-315-463-1017 parts@pbs-asi.com Did those linings perform as expected? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted October 28, 2016 Author Share Posted October 28, 2016 The foreign manufactured over the counter linings work very well. I did have two issues. On the pass side rear, I did not have the spring at the adjuster hooked fully. This resulted in the adjuster disconnecting. But once that was back and I adjusted the rears so the parking brake has 1/2 it's length till fully applied, the brakes work good. The only thing throwing me off is it does take a little more pressure to apply the brakes. I attribute the need for extra pressure to the return springs. I do not have a good photo but the new return spring hardware is considerably heavier gauge than the original return springs I removed. I have roughly 150 miles on the car since installation. And the brakes are tight enough that it cannot be pushed by hand easily. But I check each time I finish a drive and there is no burning smell or over heated drums. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted November 4, 2016 Author Share Posted November 4, 2016 (edited) While driving to that last show in Staatsburg NY a few weeks ago, I was reminded of a vibration in this car which was really the reason I stopped feeling comfortable on long trips. I know it had the issue before and during 2003 when I drove it to Flint, and that was pretty much the last time I took the car a substantial distance. This vibration was subtle at idle, and pronounced at about 60 MPH. It came and went while driving, sort of like a droning pulse. A few days after that trip I had it out again and concentrating on the issue I noticed it was plainly evident at all speeds, not just 60 MPH. So, I stopped and ran the idle up in neutral and sure enough, it was engine related. For a week or so I pondered this vibration and concluded it must be the fan. So I finally decided to drop the fan belts one at a time to see if that helped. Well, it turned out to be the power steering pump. Took it for 10 mile ride without the pump hooked up and what a difference. But it was a bear to steer so I reattached the belt, and the vibration was back immediately. I decided It was time to get the pump rebuilt. The first step is to get the old pump off. The step before that is to get the pulley off the pump so it can be removed from the brackets. The step between the two is to take a few aspirins from the headache of trying to loosen that damn pulley bolt. With the counsel of Old Tank and Kad36, tonight I took a practice stab at one of my two spare pumps. Using a large set of water pump pliers, I was able to lock the shaft of the spare pump while it was on the floor. Stepping on the pliers for a wedge, a few taps of the BFH on the end of my 3/8th drive breaker bar, the bolt on the spare pump came loose. Even though this pump has been sitting for at least 35 or so years, the pulley came right off the shaft. Encouraged, but with the factory issued pump still on the engine, I knew I could not hold those pliers and handle the wrench and BFH at the same time. So I took a used v belt ( yes, I still keep most all the old parts) and I wrapped that old belt all around the pulley and between the brackets as tight as I could. Then three raps with a 20 oz. BFH, on the end of my 3/8th drive breaker bar, and the bolt was loose. It is a standard thread bolt by the way. When the bolt was half way off the shaft, I lightly tapped the pulley and was thinking I'd need to rotate it to tap the other side next when it popped off the keyed shaft. It was so easy I now plan to just hook up my spare pump and see if it's good enough to go. If it is, then I'll take it back off and clean it up. Edited November 4, 2016 by JohnD1956 to straighten out what type of hammer I used. (see edit history) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 10 hours ago, JohnD1956 said: "... lightly tapped the pulley and was thinking I'd need to rotate it to tap the other side next when it popped off the keyed shaft." ...and then I woke up! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 You can spin the nut right off with an impact gun. When I pulled my replacement junkyard part, I couldn't for the life of me get the nut off the pulley after a week of soaking. Finally a bit ticked off, took the impact gun and... spin it off the first try no hassles and didn't even have my hand on the pulley. Works great btw. If you have wobble, it might just be the pulley got bent or out of round. Try swapping it first before draining oils? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted November 4, 2016 Author Share Posted November 4, 2016 There isn't any wobble in the pump shaft of the old pump. And the eyeball test shows the pulley straight and in alignment with the other pulleys. What I did notice was that the original pump seems to pump erratically. I wanted to flush the steering box and lines before putting another pump on, so, I disconnected the return line and drained the reservoir as much as possible. Then I spun the pump by hand to push more fluid through the steering box. When I spun it by hand the fluid just dripped out the return line, till one point where the pump caught a prime and then it really pushed the fluid through. That does not empty the reservoir though, so I sopped up the remains with paper towels and wiped the inside of the reservoir down. Then I filled the reservoir half way with new fluid and spun the pump again. Just like before, dribbles till all of a sudden it caught and then it pushed the fluid through. I did this several times, always stopping before exposing the pickup port of the pump. Each time it was the same thing. I guess this must have been why I had a erratic droning with the vibration. I already cleaned up spare pump #1 and installed it. However, I do have to bleed the system as the fluid foamed up seconds after starting the engine. I'll work on that over the next few days. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted November 5, 2016 Author Share Posted November 5, 2016 Well, cleaned up and installed spare pump 2. Spare pump 1 was very quiet for the few seconds I ran it. But I think it has a seal leak and am not sure the pressure relief valve was working. It would only take a few moments running when the fluid would foam up and it chattered like crazy. It wasn't air in the steering box cause I followed the bleeding procedure sans opening the bleeder screw on the steering box side cover. My side cover has the boss for the bleeder screw, but it appears it was never machined and installed. To be fair, I believe spare pump 1 was the original pump for this car. And it may have been flooded. When I opened it, it did have some scale and rust in the reservoir, which came right out. But chances are the vanes in the stator were also rusted, and the orifices were compromised. Spare pump 2 was clean insides, and when the fluid was put in it flowed good the way it should. Anyway I just wanted to note a few things regarding this pump. It appears the original paint was Buick Green. There is black paint over the green, but I cannot remember when or where I got this pump. Another note, the pulley is silver. This is the pulley off pump 1, which is the one I think came with this car. The top I used is the one from the pump that started this fiasco. The cover for pump 1 was badly oxidized on the insides. The cover for pump 2 looked worse than it was and I did not clean it till after I already had this one on here. So , on the road test, this pump was very quiet till around 60 MPH or so again. Then I had some vibration, but not anywhere's near the original pump I took off. And the power steering seems much better with this pump than the original. I think I'll leave this one on and when I get the $$$ I'll send the original and spare pump 1 together to be rebuilt. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pilgrim65 Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 Good logic John cheers pilgrim 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 8 hours ago, JohnD1956 said: I think I'll leave this one on and when I get the $$$ I'll send the original and spare pump 1 together to be rebuilt. Make sure you find a good reliable rebuilder that stands behind their work and is preferably local so when they say you did it, you can go after them in person. Interesting about the Buick Green. Maybe it was attached to the engine before it was painted, and then they masked off the rest of the engine to paint the pump? Wouldn't be too far fetched, the starter I pulled off of a donor car also had Buick Green overspray. My replacement pump I pulled was stuck in the mud below where a radiator would normally sit so the outside of it was pretty gone at that point sans a little black pain on the side that was in the mud. When I tried rebuilding my original pump, I guess I aerated the pressure relief valve because I couldn't get it to run right. I'm curious now if you take a pump with a known working relief valve and disassemble the unit submerged in ATF fluid, if you can rebuild it submerged and then wipe off the excess and run it that way? Buick5563 had the same issue with his pump rebuilds if I recall correctly. All I know is before disassembly, the power steering pump worked fine albeit a bit noisy from the bearing, disassembled and reassembled and it didn't work. I sent it off back east, got it back, put it on the car and it lasted maybe 3 weeks as it erode the back side of my pulley because they incorrectly installed a washer as the bearing spacer that, once worn through by the pulley, allowed the pulley to free float on the shaft and eventually erode both it and the shaft away. They painted it up real nice, though, better than I had. I have had zero issues with the pump I pulled out of the mud, though. My only gripe is that it's still rusty, sitting there in a clean engine bay. I've kept it as a reminder to not place my trust in the hands of those who claim to be experts. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fr. Buick Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 The PS bracket are supposed to be green, since they are mounted by a head bolt and two others that pass through the cooling system. Hence it had to be installed before it could be factory tested, hence it got painted green. Then the black pump would be added on later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted November 6, 2016 Author Share Posted November 6, 2016 I totally agree with you Msgr, but the green paint cannot be denied. During cleaning it looked to me that the black paint was over the green, which all seems illogical. Who would have taken the time on the assembly line to repaint this thing black? The good news for me is my car is not perfect, and I do not intend to make it that way. I plan to paint the pump green, and the reservoir black, with the silver pulley. Hopefully with a nice paint job there, no one will notice my peeling valve covers or oil coated frame. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 Green paint on the pump? Previous owner? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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