Johnd1956's Buicks

[Magic marouke]

4 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

It does seem that Buicks have enjoyed a surge in popularity locally.  But it may just be that more old cars, in general ,are coming to market lately.

 

very nice . did you get to chat to the guy ? 

[JohnD1956]

5 hours ago, Magic marouke said:

 

very nice . did you get to chat to the guy ? 

 

I had a short conversation with him.  He is a new owner.  Bought it last year at the Saratoga Auto museum's first auction.  Can't say much else about it.  It looks great, and sounds very powerful too.  It is very showy.  One thing he did say was; It is very thirsty!   lol.. For that reason and a few others  I chuckled when I was asked if I'd swap the Queen for it. 

 

[JohnD1956]

During the replacement of the steering wheel project I had trouble with the door hinge and posted a request for help in the post war technical section.  Here is a link to that thread: need help w 56 door hinge

 

Based on the helpful replies I sourced two spring washers from the local hardware store.  They call em "wavy" washers now if you're looking for any.  Anyhow, I tried to reinstall this part onto the new washers to see if that was all that I needed:

 

 

The washers were held in place in a wheel bearing grease pack, and are still in place after several attempts to do this.  And while it went in easy enough,  the problem was the "catch assembly would not fold, as required, and I could not move the door from the wide open position. 

 

Inspection of the catch showed what looked to be a deformity.  In this picture you can see the top and bottom slots are off center.  However, from what little I could see, both slots aligned with the pins inside the hinge and engaged the pins while allowing the two fastener holes to align.  So it seems it was made this way.  It is pretty stout metal versus what the pins appear to be so I tend to doubt it was deformed in operation of the unit while installed.  But I do not know that for certain. 

 

 

Here is the spring side of this unit.  I can see that there are three moving parts.  And while the unit freely moved on the pin joint, I do not have the strength to fold the joint where that spring is. 

 

 

This spring is definitely pinned into position already, but I wonder if the spring assembly was also pined to the hinge with a bolt or something?  

 

And if you can believe this, my small parts manual pictured below does not have any reference to a door hinge, so I am hoping someone does have an interchange manual or something so I can try to source a new hinge?  

 

 

[JohnD1956]

Regardless of the stormy weather forecast I dove into the rear brakes today.  Since I am not fond of squeezing between the car and the little bit of space around it in the garage, I put a pop-up in the driveway and pulled under it for some protection.  

 

Man this car is lonnngggg!  

 

Anyway, jacked er up and removed the pass side tire and then struggled with the drum.  Just would not come off, so I  poked  around the backing plate for the adjuster hole to find none.  What?  I was completely surprised to discover the plug for the adjuster hole had never been removed.  I figured this spelled trouble for the brake drums, which are so clean you can still read the part numbers without any wire brushing. 

 

So, I popped out the one adjuster plug hole and backed off the adjuster a number of turns.  And when I got the drum off I found this!

 

 

 

 

 

Sweet biscuits.  Those shoes look brand new!  No point in changing them, unless the other side needs to be replaced.   But the plan was to do one brakes and shock absorber on one side at a time.  Enter plan "B".    removed the tire and that drum just pulled off with out a problem and I found this:

 

 

 

 

So I held up a new shoe to one of these and the material seemed to be very close in thickness.  Measuring each rivet hole I found the bottoms of the drivers side a little thinner but the rest of the thickness were identical at:

 

 

 

 

And both brake drums are smooth finish with no gouges. 

 

 

I cannot believe these are the original brakes.  The car has 107K on it now.   Must have been a very competent person who put these brakes on to do so without the use of the adjuster hole. 

 

 So, the new shoes are going onto the parts shelf for this car.  Since I did remove the adjuster plug on the pass side I also removed the one on the drivers side.  Then I slipped the drums back on and tackled the shocks.  

 

At this point it was starting to cloud up and I thought I heard a little thunder so I did not stop to take pictures.  The bottom bolts came off with the strong tug I expected.  The tops are, of course, bolts and nuts.  Naturally the side with the exhaust was very tight.  After numerous tries I had to squeeze my arm between the exhaust pipe and the gas tank and then lay on my side to reach the bolts on the top side of the frame.  I was concerned about how I would get the nuts started again with the new shocks, but the fasteners separated without much ado.  I was pleasantly surprised to find that starting the fasteners was no problem at all,  and they both started the first shot and tightened up easily.  Then I did the drivers side which was super easy as there was a lot of space without an exhaust pipe there.  

 

So that is done.  Didn't get a test ride as I just put everything away before the sky drew dark and the thunder was unmistakable.  Thing is, it never did rain.   But I'll take it to church tomorrow,  and then go see if this  resolved the slight vibration I had at 60 MPH.

 

[EmTee]

5 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

see if this  resolved the slight vibration I had at 60 MPH.

 

John, I'll be surprised if new shocks fix the vibration.  If what you're feeling is a vibration in the seat of your pants at 55 ~ 60 mph I'll bet the issue is a dry/failing U-joint.  That's precisely the symptom I had on Goldie when I found 2 bad joints.  The one at the transmission was noticeably 'notchy' when I flexed it by hand with the driveshaft on the ground.  That was back in June.

 

https://forums.aaca.org/topic/328535-67-riviera-driveshaft-cv-joints/

 

Fast forward to a couple weeks ago and don't I feel the same sort of vibration at 55 mph in my Silverado.  Upon closer inspection, one of the rear U-joint bearing cups was rusted-up and full of dry, rusty powder.  In both cases, replaced the bad joints and they're each smooth as glass at 60 mph now.  So, I suggest you inspect your driveshaft.  I'm not sure, but I'll bet it's a 2-piece shaft with CV joints and a center bearing like my Riviera.  I was able to fix mine, but plan on a full day's work (or maybe a weekend) depending on how easily everything comes apart.  The shop manual is your friend in this case! 

Edited August 18, 2019 by EmTee (see edit history)

[JohnD1956]

49 minutes ago, EmTee said:

 

John, I'll be surprised if new shocks fix the vibration.  If what you're feeling is a vibration in the seat of your pants at 55 ~ 60 mph I'll bet the issue is a dry/failing U-joint.  

 

Thanks Em Tee.  That was the first thing I thought of.  But I have inspected the drive shaft, and had it inspected as well, and the consensus is the unit is ok.  I had a similar situation in my last '78 wagon.  Replaced a bunch of stuff and in the end found a leaking shock and replacement fixed the issue.  The right rear shock on the Electra was leaking, so this time I am starting there with a known defect, before throwing a bunch of money into other parts.  But I am not throwing out the possibility that there may be a bad u joint in the drive line. 

 

Luckily the 72 does not have a CV joint in the middle of the drive shaft.  It has a front U joint and then a pair of rear u joints in a coupling. All are available, if needed.  But before going to that I will be rotating the tires to make sure it's not one of them either. The vibration is present in a really narrow speed band.  60 -70 mph.  And it does smooth out after a while.  So it could be a slipped belt in a tire.  But at least I will know it is not the shocks. 

[Smartin]

If it's a really minor vibration, I have noticed it on most of my big cars of this vintage.  It's almost just a resonance, and not so much a vibration.  Does that make sense?

[EmTee]

9 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

I will be rotating the tires to make sure it's not one of them either

 

That was my next suggestion.  Did they pull the shaft to check the joints, or just look for excess movement?  Both of the shafts in my vehicles looked OK, except the rear Riviera joint showed some movement.  That said, I think it was the forward joint on Goldie that was the source of vibration.  It looked fine in the car, but was noticeably 'notchy' feeling when I moved it around by hand.  The pictures in my CV Thread show the roller wear marks in the spiders that I believe were responsible for the vibration I felt.

[JohnD1956]

@EmTee No, we did not pull the drive shaft out to inspect it.  It could still be the source.  

@Smartin I don't think it is resonance. But I have experienced that before and know what you mean. This is a vibration. 

 

To go a little more into details,  this car has two Toyo tires on it that are dated in 2007.  The previous owner put matching new ones on it in late 2013, just before I bought it.  When I switched to the chromed rally wheels, the two new ones took more weight than the two older ones and we put the older ones on the front.  Since 2014 Toyo no longer makes that model tire.  They have brought out a new model, which,  in some online reviews, seemed to be susceptible to broken belts in the 2014-2015 years.  There have been no complaints about that in reviews since then, and it was a different model tire,  but the dates sort of coincide which makes me think it may be the problem with my car.  The drive shaft rotates freely with no stutter or play in any of the 3 universals while it is mounted in the car.  And that is with the wheels at max extension on a two post lift.  So, while it still could be a universal, I am not yet ready to go that route when I may be facing the possibility of 4 new tires.  A little more investigation is in order but,  I know I had a bad shock in the back.  I know the front shocks are good.  And I know this was the problem with that '78 Wagon.  So I'll test drive today and see if this was the correction.  

 

In addition to all this, I am keeping in mind that this could be a front end geometry issue.  The car did not do this when we brought it home from Oregon.  And I did not really notice this till last summer.  But it may have started when I put those heavy duty coil springs in the back and the car now sits lower in the front.  New front springs and an alignment are on the "to do" list.  But I wasted all my funds on that steering wheel, and now it looks like I have found some eye candy for the GS that I really want. 

 

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

John, perhaps a little test. Assuming a spare is nestled in the trunk.  Try changing out with another tire, test, repeat.  May eliminate tires. Or confirm.

 

  Ben

[old-tank]

Old tires are for museum display.

The only way to check that driveshaft is to remove it and even then the CV joint may need to be disassembled and inspected.  If that car has the original glued-in universal joints, take it to a driveline shop and have it rebuilt and balanced.  Don't do this at home and don't take it to a local who will use a press to remove the glued universals...they will ruin it!  

[JohnD1956]

Well, the shocks helped immensely, but still have the vibration.  Definitely feel it in the steering wheel, not the seat,  Got a poor start today so no rotating tires.  @Ben Bruce aka First Born great idea with the spare tire.  But I don't think I'd trust the one I have to go 60 mph!  It is an old snow tire which had studs ( I pulled em out)  and I hadn't even thought of that thing till you just mentioned it.  I am going to get 5 tires when I do that task.  

If no change with the rotation then I will pull the drive shaft.  

[EmTee]

4 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

Definitely feel it in the steering wheel, not the seat,

 

OK, then I agree you're on the right track with wheels/tires.  When you get the chance try swapping front to rear one side at a time and see whether the vibration moves with a wheel.

[kingrudy]

I believe that 2CARB40 has an interchange manual, maybe you could reach out to him. 

[JohnD1956]

Okay, two new tires coming up.  After rotating just the passengers side tires the vibration is gone.  So I'll be into new tires to replace those 2007 ones.  Sure glad it's not the driveshaft at this point.  

[JohnD1956]

New tires installed. Back to a smooth Buick ride.  Just in time for a trip on the agenda  this weekend.  Did ask the garage to start reserving a space or two for the big cars.

[JohnD1956]

Christmas in August!

 

Hope it wasn't a mistake. These re-popped '69 mirrors look right, but the bases seem very light. Hope they last.  

[Beemon]

John, I can't really help you with your spring question, but my guess is that its a door override spring so when its fully open, its less likely to come crashing back closed without a helpful hand. It looks like the two ears of the spring are resting on each of the two pieces connected to the spring pivot pin.

 

On the subject of your steering wheel, it looks awesome! Is it cool to ask how much it cost you?

[JohnD1956]

Thanks Ben. Lets just say it is a few years worth of birthday and Christmas presents.  And I have no regrets. I just hope my wife doesn't miss them too much. 😏

[JohnD1956]

revisited the brake adjustment this week.  As I read the manual I was surprised to see the recommended brake bleeding procedure called for the opposite of what I had always done.  The recommendation is to start at the closest wheel to the MC, drivers side front, and end at the pass side rear.  I always did it the opposite  except this last time, when instead, I just left bleeders open for a gravity bleed as I replaced the wheel cylinders

Anyhow, I also followed the manual for the most part in the brake adjustment. Namely all four wheels off the ground, tighten each till wheel just barely turns by hand, then back off 15 notches. 

 

Since I prefer my brake pedal high, I tightened the wheels till they just hardly moved by hand but then individually I tightened each wheel till I could not move the wheel, and then backed off 7 notches at each wheel.  At this state, the wheels turned without any brake shoe contact.  After a test drive I backed off the pass side front another 2 notches, reducing the pull to the pass side front.  Later I went back and backed off another two notches and now I have the slightest pull to the drivers side front.  And I can get my entire foot under the brake pedal when it is depressed.  

 

Now I have to address that horn.  Wanted to use it yesterday when I was almost wedged between a tractor trailer ,who decided he needed my lane for a wide left turn, and a commercial van who was pacing me looking at the car.  Good thing the brakes work well! 

[old-tank]

3 minutes ago, JohnD1956 said:

As I read the manual I was surprised to see the recommended brake bleeding procedure called for the opposite of what I had always done.

I have bled brakes every way but by the book and am convinced it makes no difference.   "Maybe" if on a completely dry system you might pull air from a line while bleeding another line...just bleed again.

I too back off 6-7 clicks after tight and write down for each wheel; then when I adjust after 10,000 miles I know how much difference...usually 2-3 clicks.  New shoes are checked every 1000 miles until stable.

[JohnD1956]

13 minutes ago, old-tank said:

I have bled brakes every way but by the book and am convinced it makes no difference

 

I agree.  I have not had problems bleeding a brake system from the furthest to the closest. Maybe they just had to write something?

[lancemb]

The safest way to do it is front to back to minimize amount of bleeding.  Otherwise you increase chance of getting  a bubble trapped in the middle.

[JohnD1956]

Since my car still has an intermittent hesitation off the line, which is exaggerated whenever there seems to be a stressful situation, I tried something a bit different on Sunday.  As I reported in another thread, leaving the car show I encountered heavy traffic.  What I did not say was that there is a steep road from the show site to the Rt 9 highway, where cars are traveling 55 mph. At the intersection I had to turn left timing my move between southbound and northbound high speed traffic.  That intersection, along with creeping up the hill,  caused me to expect hesitation and a potential stall condition just when I would be entering the traffic.  

 

Instead, I used low gear for creeping up the hill and entering the highway.  In low, the '56  pulled the hill (easily) at just barely above idle, which is an engine speed below the hesitation point.  I just creeped up the hill without any problem, and when I made the left onto the highway it jumped out like a scalded cat!  Pushed it into drive and away I went,  with no hesitation or issue.  Shortly thereafter I had hit another traffic jam climbing the slight grade to a 4 way intersection in the heart of Rhinebeck.  Once again I dropped it in low and just putted along till I was clear of the intersection and tipped er into drive.  

 

You all probably already know this, but it was new to me and it made for a much nicer drive. 

[old-tank]

56 minutes ago, JohnD1956 said:

You all probably already know this

Yep.

[jackofalltrades70]

I drove my 56’ this way almost all the time.  Seems to have managed traffic better that way.

 

Matt

[Beemon]

I would really like to figure that mystery out one day with the old Rochester carbs. Everyone on the internet seems to rebuild them "wrong". It was really night and day when I put the WCFB on. 55 carbs are more plentiful than the 56 carb, maybe keep an ear out for one? I guarantee it will make your driving experience more pleasurable without that bog.

[JohnD1956]

Finally tackled that pesky horn issue.  I thought the horn contact( Part AJ in the explosion diagram below) on the steering shaft had to be replaced.  Since I could not find any information on how to do this for a '56 with Power Steering, here is how it went:

 

 

I say a '56 with Power  steering because that was the first application of a flexible joint (rag- joint)  between the steering gear and the steering column. The '56 with manual steering still used the gear and set up from previous years.   So I started by just getting things out of the way.    The washer jar was the first thing to go.

 

 

 

And just removing that created a lot of space.   But eventually I also removed the bracket for the jar since it is only 3 tiny hex head screws.

 

 

Next the steering wheel.  Note, I used a 1/2 -3/8  socket drive converter to protect the horn button contact.  I had previously damaged the insulator there when replacing the original wheel a few years ago. 

 

 

 

That's not blood on the threads.  It is paint so I knew which side was up on the shaft and to realign the steering wheel.   At the end of this project I saw in the manual that there is supposed to be a factory mark on the shaft and the steering wheel for top side alignment.  I am not taking it apart again to find them.

 

Note:  What you cannot see in this picture is a spring with a pair of seats that is positioned a bit lower than the signal light switch plate.  That spring and seats should be removed at this point, instead of how I did it later.  You just pull it up and it should come off.  No snap rings or other hold devices, except a dose of rust like mine.  Protect your eyes and hold the parts from flying into the back seat.

 

 

Next I disconnected the shift linkage.  Note: there are three washers here.  One behind the cotter pin as shown in the mirror, one at the boss on the piece of linkage, and a spring washer between the lever and piece of linkage.  Try not to lose them. They are very thin and the hole in the center is rather large.  The cotter pin will be near impossible to reinstall if you have to source new washers. 

 

 

 

Then I loosened but did not remove the two piece bracket between the firewall and the steering column.  

 

 

 

Next up is removal of the brake pedal.  Remove the two screws on the pedal to the piston rod.  Unbolt the hinge shaft from the steering column end. Then I had to put a vice grip on the slotted left end and tap the flat of the vice grip to get the hinge pin out.  NOTE:  Make note of the way the hinge pin is originally aligned because it has an offset to allow for alignment pf the pedal to the piston rod.  If your brake pedal does not return correctly after you are done, re-aligning this hinge may be all that's needed to correct the situation.

 

After the brake pedal is off remove the rubber insulator pad.  It is held on with 4 screws,  and it is a thick rubber that appears to be vulcanized over a metal plate.  It is open on the top of the column but it takes a bit of a twist to get this off without distorting the piece too badly. 

 

 

At this point I loosened the u bracket under the steering column.  and then I worked out the wires on the Neutral Safety switch, and then dropped the fuse block to mark and remove the signal switch wires that are plugged into the back side of the fuse block.  Also pop out the gear selector light from the top side of the steering column.  Yea!  no broken wires!   Then I removed the bolts for the master cylinder and then unbolted and removed the floor board plate.

 

 

 

Now I removed the two bolts on the flexible collar ( Rag-joint) that held the steering column flange.  Leave the steering gear side alone.  I did have to put the steering wheel on temporarily to rotate the shaft and get to the bottom bolt.  I suggest getting that bolt out before removing the steering wheel.  The design of the joint will allow the one bolt to be removed and the shaft rotated back to center without damage.

 

Then I removed the upper u bracket and the column fell into my lap.  It is a tight fit because you have to work the bracket and shifter lever through the hole at the top.  I could have removed the master cylinder to make that easier, but that did not seem any easier to me. 

 

 

Note the orientation of the two foam blocks at the bottom of the steering column for reassembly.   Also note that the cover for my Neutral safety switch is missing.  I will go over that in the next post. Further, in this picture I have not yet removed the auxiliary horn button I put on the column so that I had a horn.  That thing worked but it was such an annoyance to hit when desired.  Also note the orientation of the horn connector (part AC in the explosion diagram) which is just to the left of the inside black foam ring.   

 

 

End of part 1

[JohnD1956]

Part 2  

 

I removed the horn contact.  Again, note the orientation of the contact.  You'll see why later.

 

 

Next, before you loosen this clamp at the bottom, note the gap between the bottom of the painted column and the aluminum spring retainer.  Loosening the bolt will allow the spring retainer to move out.  And, if you removed the spring with it's seats at the end under the steering wheel, the entire steering shaft will simply pull out at this point.  It took me two days to locate the spring and seats when they flew off under pressure.   

 

 

The horn contact ring is shown.  From others I had seen the ring was seriously deteriorated.  But mine was still in relatively good shape.  This lead to the diagnosis that the ring was simply misaligned with the horn contact thus causing the problem.  I thought if I had just put the horn contact on in the reverse position from the picture above I could have saved all this effort.  I decided to make that switch when I reinstalled the steering shaft. 

 

 

I did have to call for help as I do not have a heavy duty soldering iron.  My friend  Adam came to the rescue. 

 

 

 

If you look at the end of the ring you will find multiple slots.  These appear to be factory made slits in the ring.  We soldered the slits together and then ground the outside smooth with a drum bit on my Dremmel tool. Note:  The black plastic insulator slid on the shaft so we did not have issues with melting that.  While you can still see the slits in the photo below, they are all bridged and solid at this point.  From here we conducted a simple continuity test to make sure the wire to the horn was not shorting.  We did that test multiple stages to be sure.

 

 

 

Below the spring on the left is the one that shot across the room.  There are two seats.  This full circle one, and one with a split.  The full circle one is shown in the explosion diagram as part AU, and the seat with the split is not shown in the diagram that I can see. However upon re-installation it was obvious the ring with the slit sat inside the spring and was installed after the spring was placed on the full circle seat. 

 

 

Horn contact being re installed

 

 

 

Cover for the Neutral Safety switch  being installed.  Note: I mistakenly tried to pop this cover off while the column was in the car.  I did not know about this rivet.  The cover came off but it partially split to do so.  I was able to glue it back together.  One can use a small flat head screwdriver to pop this rivet out from the right side of the column when the column is installed in the car.  

 

 

Another continuity test while spinning the steering shaft. 

 

 

Prep for reinstallation.  This caulk is available at your hardware store.  It comes in white and grey.  It is the same caulk I used in my heater core replacement and appears to be the same material used during original assembly of the car.  It is great stuff. 

 

 

At this point I reassembled the car.  That's when I discovered the shift was jammed and would not release from Park position. 

 

End part 2

 

 

[JohnD1956]

Horn Repair Part 3

Two additional aspects of Part 2 are:

1- I put some silicone glue around the steering shaft,  at the lower end of the black plastic insulator, because it seemed to me that the insulator and horn ring could move rather easily on the steering shaft.

2- As I installed the column It was obvious that I did not find the right up and down location of the column and  there was a rather large gap between the chrome horn ring on the steering wheel and the signal light collar.  Attempts to correct that have not yet been successful.  

 

But since the shifter would not rotate, I decided to pull the column again.  The good news is that it only took 45 minutes to get it out this time.  

 

I did spend some time looking at this lever action.  This is where the adjustment in section 5-36 of the factory service manual is performed.   This provides the stops one feels when selecting any of the gears. 

 

 

 

The red arrow is pointing to the "spring" in the procedure.

 

 

I also checked this spring which is noted as part # AA in the explosion diagram, thinking I had dislodged it and that was jamming the shifter.   But this is obviously not the problem. 

 

 

 

Then it dawned on me that the only other thing was the horn contact.  Sure enough, the way  I installed it the horn contact it blocked the transmission control shaft in the column when pulling on the shift to rotate out of Park.  This meant pulling the steering shaft out, removing the nice bead of glue I installed, and then reassembling everything and realigning the horn contact ring/insulator assembly to the window in the column and reversing the horn contact

. 

 

Then it was back to reassembling the car.  So far the horn works great.   Hopefully I won't have to do this again, ever. 

 

 

 

[lancemb]

Redoing work it THE WORST!  But, we've all done I'm pretty sure.  It does feel good to finally figure it out...

[JohnD1956]

As reported in another thread, I discovered I had failed to tighten the vacuum line at the power brake booster decades ago. Either that or the hose deteriorated enough that it just came loose.  Whichever, and whatever, correcting this appears to have nearly fixed my off line stumble in addition to providing a smoother performance overall.  It also appears to have corrected the stiff brake pedal feel which would be an obvious observation except it never felt like I did not have power brakes. The GS has manual brakes so there was something to compare it to.  

 

At anyrate I am just glad this was found and fixed.

[JohnD1956]

A update on the vibration issue:

 

Last Fall we had purchased 2 Hankook tires to replace the  2 older Toyo tires.  These were placed on the rear axles.  I still had a vibration above 55 which seemed to smooth out at greater speeds.   This spring the vibration seemed to be worse, coming on at 50 mph.  And tire inspection showed a ridge just at the letter "I" in the tire model name which you may be able to see in this picture.

 

 

 a few short weeks ago the remaining two Toyo's were swapped for 2 more new Hankook's.  The garage where I go usually lets me into the service bays while working on my cars but due to the Novel Corona-virus they asked me not to this time.  So after what seemed to be a long time to swap two tires the CSR tells me that the mechanic made sure the new tires were on the best rims up front, and the two bent rims were on the back. 

 

Last Friday I had a good chance to get it on the highway for an extended trip and the vibration is completely gone.  I still think it was the tires more than the bent rims, and I have no real idea of how bent the rear rims are, but I am now pursuing two more straight rims for my own peace of mind. 

 

 

[Matt Harwood]

Could be worse, I guess.

 

[Buicknutty]

That's one scary balloon, Matt!

Keith

[old-tank]

How can you resist poking it?!

[lancemb]

On 8/17/2019 at 2:49 PM, JohnD1956 said:

 

Since I did remove the adjuster plug on the pass side I also removed the one on the drivers side. 

 

Did you put rubber plugs in place?

[JohnD1956]

What a dunce!  I sure can make mistakes!

 

Usually when I am done using the car I will use the battery disconnect switch after it is parked in the garage.  But I forgot to disconnect the battery last night AND I forgot to turn off the radio too.  I was so surprised when it spun over with no problem this morning despite my neglect.  Gotta love those great big truck batteries! 

 

Anyway here it is after it's AM bath!    

 

 

 

 

 

[EmTee]

On 6/4/2020 at 4:28 PM, JohnD1956 said:

Anyway here it is after it's AM bath!    

 

That's sure one nice Riviera -- those whitewalls are lookin' sharp! 

[JohnD1956]

@NC-car-guy. Horn update.