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72 Centurion Convertible


NC-car-guy

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Yes, I agree with getting it fixed.  Here's something that may be of interest.  According to the web site info posted on the one automotive AC parts service, the seal on the A6 compressors are actually designed to leak a little to provide lubrication for the compressor shaft at that point.  When the AC is off the pulley is inert and that little leak of AC oil will accumulate in the back side of the compressor pulley. Then when the system is energized that oil in the back of the pulley will spray all over the place.  On the Queen, there is a splash guard alongside the compressor pulley. Not sure if that was included or still remains on your Centurion.  But the 69 GS does not have such a guard and that oil made a real mess of my engine compartment.

 

 

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4 minutes ago, JohnD1956 said:

Yes, I agree with getting it fixed.  Here's something that may be of interest.  According to the web site info posted on the one automotive AC parts service, the seal on the A6 compressors are actually designed to leak a little to provide lubrication for the compressor shaft at that point.  When the AC is off the pulley is inert and that little leak of AC oil will accumulate in the back side of the compressor pulley. Then when the system is energized that oil in the back of the pulley will spray all over the place.  On the Queen, there is a splash guard alongside the compressor pulley. Not sure if that was included or still remains on your Centurion.  But the 69 GS does not have such a guard and that oil made a real mess of my engine compartment.

 

 

Nice tip.  Thanks

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By observation, the A6 compressor put "lines" on the hood pad or underside of the hood on MANY cars on which it was used.  It seems that some were worse than others.  BUICK did use a little sheet metal "catcher" on some of the '69-'70 cars so they would stay "clean".  Never did get the full application list, though.  Those would be for the cars with the small a/c pulley, I suspect.

 

Happy Thanksgiving!

NTX5467

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15 hours ago, NC-car-guy said:

The only thing left to make the car perfect will be the dents in the hood...

Paintless dent repair?  I had someone come out and address some annoying dings on the GP's hood and one on the RR quarter.  Amazing result - I will likely have him back to remove a few door dings next year.

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5 hours ago, EmTee said:

Paintless dent repair?  I had someone come out and address some annoying dings on the GP's hood and one on the RR quarter.  Amazing result - I will likely have him back to remove a few door dings next year.

That hood is too far gone for that, the best way to repair that is to replace the hood, it will be cheaper that trying to repair that one and in the end the finished result will be better and will do away with future issues that will surely arise again if that hood is repaired 

 

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2 minutes ago, Y-JobFan said:

That hood is too far gone for that, the best way to repair that is to replace the hood, it will be cheaper that trying to repair that one and in the end the finished result will be better and will do away with future issues that will surely arise again if that hood is repaired 

 

Body man checked it out.  He said to take it down to bare metal fix the dents repaint it re pinstripe it $1,200

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12 hours ago, NC-car-guy said:

Body man checked it out.  He said to take it down to bare metal fix the dents repaint it re pinstripe it $1,200

Replace it, with the engine heat the vibration opening and closing and those hoods tend to flex any filler in the hood well eventually goes south, hoods aren’t that hard to find to guarantee no problems in the future. I bet those  dents were already fixed once.  That’s a lick it out on top of the premium price you paid for the car not even taking into account the money you’re going to get into fixing the top and the other items.  Help karma gets that seller

Edited by Y-JobFan (see edit history)
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To me, an unfortunate reality of buying "a used car" is that something will need fixing to make it right.  Or at least to what I perceive that to be.  Whether it's from a broker/re-seller or the then-current owner.  Everybody has their own tolerance levels of these things, by observation.  Or the seller's seeming lack of knowledge of how they are supposed to be or how they were "back then".  Which is where a good (dry and hvac equipped) building and a trusted and knowledgeable mechanic/shop can come into play.  With the building also being a place where the vehicle can be safely put between "work on it" times.

 

As an additional "thing" to do . . . get ALL of the rubber fuel lines replaced over the "dormant season", too!  To me, that's much more important than "patina pecks" on the hood, with all due respect.  Get the correct clamps accumulated, if that might matter.

 

Happy Holidays!

NTX5467

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The thing about "city" driving is the highly variable amount of time spent sitting at red lights and stopping at stop signs.  "0" mpg while sitting still and probably about 5mpg under moderate acceleration until cruising speed is reached.  Then "coast" to the stop signs rather than "driving up to them".  Tire inflation pressure is a side issue.

 

Happy Holidays!

NTX5467

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1 hour ago, Smartin said:

10 mpg isn’t out of the norm for city driving.  But if you’re on the highway, you should be able to get at least 15.  I had a best of 22 ONE TIME lol …never to be repeated😆

Amen, I have always averaged 15-16 traveling with the big Buicks with some higher numbers

 

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On 11/24/2021 at 1:58 PM, Y-JobFan said:

That hood is too far gone for that,

From what I've seen I wouldn't assume anything without having a paintless dent guy look at it.  Let he/she say it's "too far gone".  Costs nothing to find out.

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1 hour ago, EmTee said:

From what I've seen I wouldn't assume anything without having a paintless dent guy look at it.  Let he/she say it's "too far gone".  Costs nothing to find out.

I agree.  Replacement will be problematic as the hood in question is one year only and only for Centurion's.  Other B-C bodies had Venti-Ports (either 3-4 depending) whereas the Centurion had none.  I have had PDR done on the GSX Prototype and my daily drivers.  It is an excellent repair and should be attempted before sanding, filling or replacement is attempted.  The results are usually excellent.

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  • 1 month later...

Well.  They are still trying to figure out a clog in the AC system.  New compressor, new condenser already installed.  When I got the car the system was out of from with a locked compressor. Turns out the condenser had several pinholes. Anyhow...  Also found out the top issue....one of the bars is bent.  @*@!!! _&;!\!*÷__!,;$\!!!! So pissed.  This car is headed for sale faster and faster.

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8 hours ago, Y-JobFan said:

While the seller of this car obviously took you for a ride and you over paid for what you actually got, once you get the items fixed it should be a lovely car and serve you well.  

Agreed.  And the surprises really aren't that big in the scheme of things.  Why fix everything just to get rid of it?  As was pointed out before, assume every old car you get will have a few gremlins.  But, having such a well-preserved low mileage car they should be few.  The scizzor top will likely be only thing that may remain tempermental over time, if top goes up and down a lot.

Edited by lancemb (see edit history)
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Well, don't feel like the Lone Ranger, either!  I stopped by a friend's shop to see how he'd made it through the Covid deals.  In his shop was a very nice red '72 Cutlass convertible.  He was going through it for his customer, to see what the guy had bought.  The owner had noted that it didn't like to run on 87 octane fuel.  After checking the numbers on the Olds 350 engine, they determined that it was a '68 engine, which meant 10.0CR, so NO 87 octane would work.  They were slowly draining the tank to put some super unleaded in it.  In taking about the car, his son reached down and shook the front bumper.  To see it sitting there, it looked ok, but it would raise about 2 inches, or the limit of the adjustment travel on the brackets.  EASILY moved!  That car, too, had been bought "long distance".  Like the Buick, when it's all fixed, it'll be fine and enjoyable for a long time.

 

Just some thoughts,

NTX5467

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  • 4 weeks later...

When a compressor grenades it's virtually impossible to clear all of the shrapnel from the system, resulting in a chain-reaction of successive compressor failures.  I went through this with a '94 Regal years ago.  Replacing 'everything' is probably the best (only?) solution...

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Removal of compressor innards from the system requires a specific AC cleaning solution and a lot of compressed air. Receiver/dryer gets replaced.   Orifice tube with filter replaced.  The biggest problem is compressors would be packaged with minimal oil. Many installed with no additional oil added before evacuation and recharge.   Been there 

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IIRC, his car should have still had the VIR (valves in receiver) system of POA valve.  Orifice tubes should have started with the CCOT systems (cycling clutch orifice tube) a few years later (1977 or so?).  BTAIM

 

A/C flush fluid got up to about $50.00/gallon before it stopped being readily available, as I recall.  Which then made replacement more of a good option.  The "cleaning" was replaced by inline filters.  When they clogged, you just changed them.  They came with or without orifice tubes in them.  GM put out a TSB to use the inline filters rather than the flush fluid in the event of a compressor failure.  Not to say that some might still have used some sort of flush fluid and compressed air.

 

Glad the further reconditioning of the convertible is progressing!

NTX5467

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On 1/26/2022 at 5:18 PM, NC-car-guy said:

Well.  New lines and evaporator ordered.  That will officially replace the entire A/C system!  😒

If it helps any, you might recall I replaced the entire AC system as well as the heater core in the wagon, so you're not alone. and guess what, I just replaced the heater core again.

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8 hours ago, MrEarl said:

If it helps any, you might recall I replaced the entire AC system as well as the heater core in the wagon, so you're not alone. and guess what, I just replaced the heater core again.

Omg...  😒

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On 1/26/2022 at 11:44 PM, NTX5467 said:

   GM put out a TSB to use the inline filters rather than the flush fluid in the event of a compressor failure.  Not to say that some might still have used some sort of flush fluid and compressed air.

 

Glad the further reconditioning of the convertible is progressing!

NTX5467

Used both for good measure.  

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So now the shop says that there are no parts available for this air conditioning and since they can't get all the exploded compressor flushed out they're going to have to take everything out and send it to Vintage Air to be rebuilt. Told them to skip it, button up the car and get it ready to come home.

On a side note if anybody on this forum has actual part numbers and sources where I can buy everything for the air conditioner on this car I will pay a 10% finder's fee. I am so pissed I'm definitely over the car but I want it to be perfect before I sell it and take some other poor jackasse's money.

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The shop might be correct . . . according to their normal sources . . . as to what is or is not available.  Reman A-6 compressors certainly are around, even the new aluminum versions used on Lexus cars, which have the funny front clutch cover on them.  The condensers and evaporator cores might take more doing to find, I suspect.  BUT as this is also an opportune time to convert it to R-134a gas, the VIR/accumulator can be rebuilt for that gas, which I suspect Vintage Air (or similar) might be able to do.

 

There are universal-fit condensers available, parallel-flow (which works better with R-134a), in many cases.  But they just don't quite look "factory", even with some black paint on them.  The evap core might take some doing, but I suspect it might also fit similar GM B/C cars other than just Buicks.  So, there can be possibilities.

 

After the approved "flush fluid" became too expensive, in the event of compressor failures, GM put out a TSB to install an in-line filter in the line feeding the compressor, to catch any debris which might be moved by the gas/oil mixture.  When it clogged, just change it until it didn't clog any more.  I know that would not look "factory", but it apparently worked.  There are a few different styles, one of which is a "pancake" style.

 

It has been claimed that using "cured" a/c lines will work with R-134a.  By "cured", I mean the orig R-12 lines/fittings which have had R-12 gas/oil in them for a long time.  It is claimed that the oil will coat the inside of the rubber so it will not leak the R-134a gas out.  So if the system held R-12 reliably before, it might also reliably hold R-134a too.  Otherwise, you get the R-134a lines/fittings in the mix, too.

 

To me, if these things are done well, in OEM factory configuration, then it might not detract enough to be noticeable by an average cruise event attendee.  But for those who know what they are looking at, they'll know.  BUT having all of these things done well might even increase the ultimate sales value of the car, very possibly, as that would be "one more thing" that has been done and not have to worry about.

 

I feel your frustration in this whole deal.  Not nearly what you envisioned when you bought the car.

 

Just some thoughts,

NTX5467

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5 minutes ago, avgwarhawk said:

Yeah I saw that I was in a call to them just to clarify because my understanding is the same evaporator would not fit that many models I'll let you know what I find out

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