cquisuila Posted September 25, 2021 Share Posted September 25, 2021 Hello How to remove FRONT brake drum on riviera 1966 PLEASE ? DO I need to drill these 3 points marked with an arrow please? Thank you for your help ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted September 25, 2021 Share Posted September 25, 2021 Remove the dust cap. Remove the cotter pin. Remove the castle nut. The brake drum AND the hub come off as one piece. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
protrash63 Posted September 25, 2021 Share Posted September 25, 2021 Just did this last night!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted September 25, 2021 Share Posted September 25, 2021 Once the drum/hub assembly is off you can thread the nut back on the spindle and use it to remove the inner wheel bearing and seal by slipping the drum over the spindle and nut, then catch the edge of the bearing on the spindle nut and give the drum a quick pull toward you. The drum should come off the spindle, leaving the inner bearing and seal behind the spindle nut. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
protrash63 Posted September 25, 2021 Share Posted September 25, 2021 3 minutes ago, EmTee said: Once the drum/hub assembly is off you can thread the nut back on the spindle and use it to remove the inner wheel bearing and seal by slipping the drum over the spindle and nut, then catch the edge of the bearing on the spindle nut and give the drum a quick pull toward you. The drum should come off the spindle, leaving the inner bearing and seal behind the spindle nut. Reminds me of using an axle to pull the seal off a rear end! Save the seals!😁 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted September 25, 2021 Share Posted September 25, 2021 1 minute ago, protrash63 said: Save the seals! They are available, but definitely match new ones against the old ones first. If there's no signs of leakage, they can generally be reused without a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cquisuila Posted September 25, 2021 Author Share Posted September 25, 2021 ok thanks it is in the center !!! sorry > i have never done this job beforet !!;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolly_John Posted September 26, 2021 Share Posted September 26, 2021 (edited) cquisuila. do you have the factory service manual for your Riviera (used in the Buick dealer's shop)? If not, it is something you should consider buying. Maybe they were available in the French language, if needed. Don't know about that. John Edited September 26, 2021 by Jolly_John (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
protrash63 Posted September 26, 2021 Share Posted September 26, 2021 4 hours ago, cquisuila said: ok thanks it is in the center !!! sorry > i have never done this job beforet !!;) It is easy. Knock off the cap, pull the cotter pin, loosen nut, and pull! If the brake shoes are stuck it will be hard. Prepare for greasy parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cquisuila Posted September 26, 2021 Author Share Posted September 26, 2021 t was good no rust easy ! thank you 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KRmanr Posted September 29, 2021 Share Posted September 29, 2021 (edited) To further this discussion, I would like to understand why Buick designed these front drum / hubs to be permanently assembled with these rivets. Many years ago I wanted to install a set of aftermarket wheels and these large rivets interfered with the wheels seating properly, so I drilled down the heads as evenly as I could, but I always wondered how much I may have affected their balance. The drums are obviously hub centric and should be able to be removed, and even turned and then replaced without issues. Edited September 29, 2021 by KRmanr (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted September 29, 2021 Share Posted September 29, 2021 If you look closely at a set of 65> 45 fin drums, they are not hubcentric like 63&64 hubs are. I think that Buick used the same hubs until they went to 90 fin hubs. I’ll dig some out of the shed and compare the 63/64 with a 65>. If they’re the same, I’ll post pictires. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awk409ak Posted October 5, 2021 Share Posted October 5, 2021 (edited) On 9/29/2021 at 5:55 PM, KRmanr said: To further this discussion, I would like to understand why Buick designed these front drum / hubs to be permanently assembled with these rivets. Many years ago I wanted to install a set of aftermarket wheels and these large rivets interfered with the wheels seating properly, so I drilled down the heads as evenly as I could, but I always wondered how much I may have affected their balance. The drums are obviously hub centric and should be able to be removed, and even turned and then replaced without issues. KRmanr, This was a topic sometime ago when I first joined this forum. I have had other vehicles with front drums with no rivets and like you said you need to remove the rivets to have the drums turned or replaced. The rears are not riveted either. My thoughts were that it was more done for manufacturing and stocking. The hub and drum can be pre-assembled by a manufacturer, ordered, shipped and stocked as a assembly (one box). Being a mechanical engineer for high tech company, our procurement/manufacturing people were always requesting to have part manufacturer pre-assemble assemblies. Just my thoughts. Art Edited October 5, 2021 by awk409ak (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
protrash63 Posted October 6, 2021 Share Posted October 6, 2021 14 hours ago, awk409ak said: KRmanr, This was a topic sometime ago when I first joined this forum. I have had other vehicles with front drums with no rivets and like you said you need to remove the rivets to have the drums turned or replaced. The rears are not riveted either. My thoughts were that it was more done for manufacturing and stocking. The hub and drum can be pre-assembled by a manufacturer, ordered, shipped and stocked as a assembly (one box). Being a mechanical engineer for high tech company, our procurement/manufacturing people were always requesting to have part manufacturer pre-assemble assemblies. Just my thoughts. Art Along these lines of thinking over the years of working on Chevy trucks I noticed that now disc brake kits come assembled on the spindle where in the past one would get a pile of parts. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cquisuila Posted October 17, 2021 Author Share Posted October 17, 2021 I have a problem with rear BRAKEthe liquid does not reach the back > I opened the circuit yetI plugged an air pump into the hose in the back so just after the brake hoseTHE air arrives to the master cylinder (so from the back to the front to the mouth 4 outputs of the master cylinder> of the master cylinder it comes out well ( I also tested the mastervac that works very well that pushes the rod into the master cylinder) and this ejects the liquid at the mouth 4 exits from the large hose that goes to the back...- WHEN I push brake pedal the brake fluid does not arrive and when I open the brake jar on the master cylinder it rejects to the outside of the jar as if it were clogged in the hose do you have ideas please : Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Cannon Posted October 17, 2021 Share Posted October 17, 2021 The flexible rubber brake hose is plugged up inside. You need new hoses. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cquisuila Posted October 17, 2021 Author Share Posted October 17, 2021 25 minutes ago, Jim Cannon said: The flexible rubber brake hose is plugged up inside. You need new hoses. IS it not rigid from front to rear ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwedeDownUnderR63 Posted October 17, 2021 Share Posted October 17, 2021 19 minutes ago, cquisuila said: IS it not rigid from front to rear ? No, you need this if it is a ‘66 that you have: http://www.oldbuickparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_375_376&products_id=6397 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cquisuila Posted October 17, 2021 Author Share Posted October 17, 2021 my HOSE ASM at the rear does not leak...i don't understand what you tell and as i told, the air passes very well in the pipe asm front to rear why i have pression in circuit opened ? > must I press the brake pedal for a long time to get the fluid to the back ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Cannon Posted October 17, 2021 Share Posted October 17, 2021 Put the end of a short piece of hose into a jar of brake fluid. When you have an assistant pump the pedal with their foot, you will see air bubbles until the brake fluid is all the way to the far end of the line and liquid comes out. It is possible for air to move though the brake hose easier than liquid brake fluid. IF you do not have new brake hoses, you will want to replace them now. You do not know how old they are or what condition the inside of the rubber hose might be. Do it all now and do it once. I hope this helps you. Jim 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cquisuila Posted October 18, 2021 Author Share Posted October 18, 2021 thank you very much, Jim i will see !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted October 18, 2021 Share Posted October 18, 2021 Be sure to replace the hose that connects the rigid tubing between the chassis and the rear axle. The one on my '67 Riviera collapsed internally and even though it passed fluid, it caused the rear brakes to drag when I removed my foot from the brake pedal. Replace the front hoses as well, if you have the hydraulic system open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted October 18, 2021 Share Posted October 18, 2021 There are times when the material of the brake hose can de-laminate. If the fluid enters the void area under pressure it can block the hose, working like a check valve and stop flow in either direction. It can not apply the brake or not release the brake depending on how it failed. My test is to remove the brake hose and push a length of #10 electric wire through it. All three hoses could be checked no matter what their age. Even new can fail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cquisuila Posted October 18, 2021 Author Share Posted October 18, 2021 yes i thought to make this work with electric wire ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted October 18, 2021 Share Posted October 18, 2021 Maybe on a Peugeot. If you find you can't get a wire through you have the good feeling that you identified the problem and have the satisfaction you found something wrong. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cquisuila Posted October 18, 2021 Author Share Posted October 18, 2021 yes it was the the problem i passed a wire and i uncorked !!!:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted October 18, 2021 Share Posted October 18, 2021 If it’s old enough to clog, it’s old enough to replace. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted October 20, 2021 Share Posted October 20, 2021 You keep pussy footing around & it not only could cost you your beloved vehicle BUT ALSO your life. NEW hoses aren't expensive GET NEW HOSES!!!!!! Tom T. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cquisuila Posted October 21, 2021 Author Share Posted October 21, 2021 (edited) yes the rigid brake line rear left is broken in the tee.... so i must to change the extremIty... please what's the type of BRAKE LINE rigid ? 3/8 , 3/16 ?? E typ ? i think that the tee is 3 out : - one to brake hose 7/16 - 2 to left and right brake rigid line 3/8 is it right ? > I HAVE RIGID BRAKE LINE DIAMETER 4.75mm but not the connector... I can cut the new line and put a connector i don't want to change the total brake line OF THE CAR ... i haven't the tool for pipe flaring THis typ is it good ? what's the solution please ? I hope that you will be able to help me ! Edited October 21, 2021 by cquisuila (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted October 21, 2021 Share Posted October 21, 2021 New brake lines as well as hoses are avaialable from a variety of suppliers. Inline Tube, Fine lines, etc. The front-rear line is 3/16ths. as well as the lines on the rear axle as well on the front except from the master cylinder which is 1/4". Tom T. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwedeDownUnderR63 Posted October 21, 2021 Share Posted October 21, 2021 (edited) If one brake line is broken wouldn’t it make sense to change it all? A complete stainless set for a ‘66 is $179 + shipping. That is a cheap life insurance that I bought and installed in my ‘63. Edited October 21, 2021 by SwedeDownUnderR63 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted October 21, 2021 Share Posted October 21, 2021 1 hour ago, cquisuila said: i don't want to change the total brake line OF THE CAR ... Leaving the old metal lines in could cost two bumpers, yours and his. Maybe a fender or two as well. The brake line loses material internally from water entrained in the brake fluid. It is usually the bottom that rusts first. To test take a pair of vise grip pliers and gently squeeze the sides of the lines in a few low areas. lines that have material corroded will crack or fold along the bottom due to their weakness. Just a light squeeze, don't crush them. If you find thick reddish colored mud in the wheel cylinders just change them. You can check that by just peeling the wheel cylinder cups back while everything is still together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kegart Posted October 21, 2021 Share Posted October 21, 2021 Your car is 55 years old. Listen to Tom and Bernie. Replacing brake lines and wheel cylinders is cheaper than collision repair Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted October 22, 2021 Share Posted October 22, 2021 As Bernie said "Leaving the old metal lines in could cost two bumpers, yours and his. Maybe a fender or two as well." As well as a busted nose and some broken teeth. No crush in the front end or frame, no air bags, no collapsible steering column, no shoulder restraint, and lots of hard plastic and steel. You'll be money ahead to replace ALL the items in the brake system, kits are available for the return springs, new wheel cylinders, EVERYTHING. Much cheaper than hospital and dental bills. Plus you might not have to pay for the other guy's injuries and your insurance premiums won't go up. Don't take time to think about it - just do it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gungeey Posted October 22, 2021 Share Posted October 22, 2021 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cquisuila Posted October 22, 2021 Author Share Posted October 22, 2021 i understand what you are saying poor riviera.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted October 22, 2021 Share Posted October 22, 2021 C 16 hours ago, gungeey said: Probably the results of the owner not taking the time to replace ALL of the brake components when he had a chance. Just too lazy. The yellow stickers on the windows let the people who are towing the car that a death took place in 5he car. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted October 25, 2021 Share Posted October 25, 2021 On 10/22/2021 at 12:41 PM, RivNut said: Probably the results of the owner not taking the time to replace ALL of the brake components when he had a chance. I was thinking it was a DIY disk brake conversion gone awry... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cquisuila Posted October 25, 2021 Author Share Posted October 25, 2021 6 hours ago, EmTee said: I was thinking it was a DIY disk brake conversion gone awry... Why always see the brake system? i think more it is shock with a truck... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted October 25, 2021 Share Posted October 25, 2021 15 hours ago, cquisuila said: Why always see the brake system? i think more it is shock with a truck... His brakes failed and he couldn’t stop and he ran a red light in front of a truck coming from his left. Dead is dead. Probably not a pretty site when his family needed to identify him for the corner. What a sight for your last image of a loved one. Hopefully his wife and children were not with him and they died as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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