Jump to content

KRmanr

Members
  • Posts

    26
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About KRmanr

  • Birthday 04/22/1964

Profile Information

  • Location
    Dallas Texas USA

Recent Profile Visitors

217 profile views

KRmanr's Achievements

250+ Points

250+ Points (1/7)

  • Reacting Well Rare
  • Very Popular Rare
  • Collaborator

Recent Badges

14

Reputation

  1. This post makes me realize just how very lucky I've been in the past driving on very old tires. I drove from DFW to Overland Park, Kansas in 2018 at 70-75 MPH on tires >12 years old, and I made it both ways, thankfully! I'm now riding on a new set of 235/75R 15's so I rest easier now, plus that fractionally larger size reduces my Hwy RPM's by approximately 150+/- at 70 MPH.
  2. What then does Michelin's recommendation regarding inspection "five years and after tires would be inspected for safety" really mean? I believe Ed's point is that Michelin's recommendation is completely useless as is; without clarifying, detailed inspection criteria it is an open ended guess left up to each individual tire technician performing the inspections. Note, deterioration of tire rubber isn't necessarily visible to the human eyeball.
  3. Was the "advertised" HP & Torque ratings different between (any year) GS and non-GS Riv's? Honestly, I would not be surprised if all Riv pipes were identical, except for possibly 2x4 barrel carb engines. Mufflers and Resonators seem a more likely difference. Also, the over the axle pipes sizing is limited because of the inherited tight clearance between frame rails and tires/wheels. Larger diameter pipes must be flattened out (even more to some extent) for clearance. I thought the factory over the axle pipes were flattened to some extent already? That's my recollection of tailpipe issues.
  4. What you have circled there is the Track Bar (a.k.a. Panhard Rod, or Panhard bar, or track rod) a suspension link that provides lateral location of the axle. If the Bushings located at each end of this bar have never been replaced, it is certain that they should be replaced. I just replaced mine for the first time on our one-family-owned '67 Riv and it made a huge difference in handling and safe drivability. Ref: Track Arm Bushing Set (Panhard Bar) Part Number: 3.7111 Manufacturer: Energy Suspension -- Rear Track Arm Bushing Kit - Panhard Bar Part Number: 71210 Manufacturer: Prothane
  5. I know my '67 430 is 1-1/8"
  6. I have long rectangular flat digital bar tach, maybe 7/8" thick, mounted with double sided tape below my barrel speedometer. I bought it decades ago and didn't install it until about 10 years ago. It's next to perfect because it sits so inconspicuously there. I could never imagine a large round tachometer bolted anywhere in my '67 spaceship.
  7. And no doubt, just when you think "you've got one completed", something else will occur and your trustworthy classic car will be down and in need of help. They're no different than us in that respect. πŸ™„πŸ₯ΊπŸ˜‰
  8. I have a '67 Riviera and replaced the original regulator with a solid state unit from JC Whitney some 30 years ago, and it's worked fine all this time. Note: our ('66 & '67) regulator is a "generic" GM (1963-1970) unit fit for those same GM Alternator applications, even though sellers parts indexes don't reflect it. It doesn't matter whether or not the car is factory equipped with an ammeter; the Blue & Pink wires at the connector plug is what matters. FYI
  9. I like them painted. Here's a great looking example.
  10. What happens when Exhaust Manifold Gaskets are used on BBB's? They're less likely to leak.
  11. I agree with Tom T. I "plugged" the holes under my '67 Q'jet carburetor 30+ years ago simply by using high-temp silicone. Especially living in Texas, this is not necessary at all. Also, consider the fact that by 1969 (possibly 1968 too), Buick did away completely with that under carb heat tunnel, so it must not have been providing the positive results they anticipated.
  12. I don't trust OPGI either, but more importantly, my friend is restoring his '69 Riv and he ordered new mounts from CARS after ordering first from OPGI. The so-called "correct" right & left mount(s) CARS sells are the same GENERIC ones everyone else sells. They're all the same. He became quite frustrated with the whole motor mount hunting expedition because essentially they are ALL the newer, so-called universal design, and they DO NOT fit correctly as the originals do. Is it just our '67-'70 Riviera's that encounter this fitment error with this universal one-size-fits-all design mount? My friend ended up modifying the passenger side mount considerably to make it work, and the 430 still doesn't sit exactly right.
  13. I colorized this Fisher Body diagram awhile back. Hope it helps.
  14. I agree with JZRIV as to a high probability it is a broken wire within the rubber door conduit. However, I cannot recommend cutting the rubber conduit. My dad did that to ours in the late '70s to repair our Riv's wires also. Keep in mind the other wires are not far behind. That said, I highly recommend the door wiring harness be rebuilt / restored with new high quality wiring, at least and especially through the condit bend points. I did this last year replacing dad's and my earlier attempts at patching various sections. I did that because the power seat wiring finally broke. These wires are extremely brittle today and are not conducive to patching easily. If you're rubber conduit is in good shape it is very much worth keeping it whole and not destroying it. While there, Visually check the switch contacts at the harness plug-in point for looseness, etc., nonetheless, I seriously doubt any switch is the problem, except possibly at the harness connection point.
  15. I really dislike (say hate) how this site/page operates. It's one of the most difficult, user unfriendly forums I've ever experienced! Navigation within, through, and all around it is nothing but frustrating to me. Rant over. Sorry I missed your offer Pat, on this and your Tilt Steering Column.
×
×
  • Create New...