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Jolly_John

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Everything posted by Jolly_John

  1. Hi, there, SardosAuto. Thanks for checking in....and, yes, I still have a couple of these NOS RIVIERA hood ornaments available. I'll send you a PM (the little envelope at the top of the page) with details. You should be able to open my PM to you, even though you're a new forum member. If you have any difficulty doing that, just post again here, and we'll exchange phone calls or emails. Thank you. John
  2. This vintage screw jack handle is quite the number. It is 46" long, and folds to a compact size through the use of two joints. The end that engages the jack is a standard, male 1/2" drive. This handle has two rotating grips, to make for easy rotation. In very good condition. The price is $35, plus shipping.
  3. This vintage screw jack handle is quite the number. It is 46" long, and folds to a compact size through the use of two joints. The end that engages the jack is a standard, male 1/2" drive. This handle has two rotating grips, to make for easy rotation. In very good condition. The price is $35, plus shipping.
  4. This vintage screw jack handle is quite the number. It is 46" long, and folds to a compact size through the use of two joints. The end that engages the jack is a standard, male 1/2" drive. This handle has two rotating grips, to make for easy rotation. In very good condition. The price is $35, plus shipping.
  5. This vintage screw jack handle is quite the number. It is 46" long, and folds to a compact size through the use of two joints. The end that engages the jack is a standard, male 1/2" drive. This handle has two rotating grips, to make for easy rotation. In very good condition. The price is $35, plus shipping.
  6. This vintage screw jack handle is quite the number. It is 46" long, and folds to a compact size through the use of two joints. The end that engages the jack is a standard, male 1/2" drive. This handle has two rotating grips, to make for easy rotation. In very good condition. The price is $35, plus shipping.
  7. Hello Swear57. This item has already found a new home. I'll PM you about another BUICK tire pressure gauge I have. John
  8. Google "Magnetic Angle Locator". All of the big box home improvement centers and Harbor Freight sell these. They're quite inexpensive. This is the tool I use to check and set the various driveshaft angles. John
  9. Then, from my way of thinking, the quickest, easiest, and cheapest thing to check would be the 180 degree rotation of the driveshaft. But, this time, mark the driveshaft and differential yoke with chalk BEFORE you take it apart. Do the 180 rotation and see if things are better. If they are, then permanently mark the driveshaft and differential mating position with a prick from a metal center punch on each. And, as others have stated, get to the bottom of that retaining clip not being fully seated. You'll want to pop that specific u-joint cap off, and make sure one of the needle bearings hasn't now fallen into the bottom of that cap, keeping the cap from being fully seated (and making it hard to get the retaining clip to seat completely). Finally, you want to review your BUICK shop manual and also online sources (think U-Tube) of repair information BEFORE tackling some of these projects on your Riv. Then during disassembly, mark stuff along the way, and take some notes. If you're inexperienced when it comes to working on your car, you need good info going into a project, and organization during the actual effort. That's much more efficient (and pleasurable) than having to find and correct an error you may have made when "tearing" something apart, or putting them back together. There's usually a right and a wrong way to do even the most simple of auto repair projects. Best of luck with your Riv. John
  10. Of course, you could have reinstalled the driveshaft 180 degrees off, after you put the new u-joint in. Did you mark the original driveshaft orientation with punch marks or chalk marks BEFORE you initially removed it? John
  11. This DOT Twist-Filling Grease Gun is on my shelf, waiting to get used by a new owner. Please PM me, if you're interested. Thanks. John
  12. This DOT Twist-Filling Grease Gun is on my shelf, waiting to get used by a new owner. Please PM me, if you're interested. Thanks. John
  13. This DOT Twist-Filling Grease Gun is on my shelf, waiting to get used by a new owner. Please PM me, if you're interested. Thanks. John
  14. As seems to happen quite frequently with brand new (one post) people here on the forum....this person, Creeping Elegance, never responded to me. So, just a quick update: This good condition, DOT Fitting Grease Gun is still available for purchase. John
  15. I wound up selling one of these nifty, small specialty grease guns. So, the deal is now two for $20, plus the actual cost of shipping. John
  16. I wound up selling one of these nifty, small specialty grease guns. So, the deal is now two for $20, plus the actual cost of shipping. John
  17. Hi, 2Carb40. The lug wrench socket on the RIGHT is definitely correct for 1939 BUICK. The BUICK parts book for this period does not break out individual tools. Instead, it simply lists "Tool Kit" by years. The book indicates the same kit part number for all 1939 to 1941 LHD BUICK's. So, the lug wrench on the RIGHT should also be correct for your '40. John
  18. Hi, Russell. Sorry my NOS "regular" Riviera hood ornament wasn't correct for your special Riviera XX application. John
  19. Hello, Russellnc....welcome to the forum. I have an NOS hood ornament for your Riviera. I'll send you a PM (the little envelope at the top right of the page) with all the details. Thanks. John
  20. Good of you to shed some light on the situation, Tom. Yes, hopefully we can all agree: Riviera transverse mufflers of this vintage have four straight stubs! And, based on other NOS big series BUICK transverse mufflers I've had over the years, I believe you're spot on, regarding the application for Pete's very nice mufflers. Guys with those cars should be happy to find the proper fitting, genuine BUICK muffler. John
  21. I can absolutely guarantee you all that the correct Riviera muffler has straight stubs all the way around. I have had at least six NOS 1963-65 Riviera mufflers (but no '65 GS mufflers) over the years. I have no horse in this race, but, for the life of me, I don't understand why someone hasn't simply decoded the BUICK part numbers embossed on each muffler. I would do it for you all, but I no longer have a BUICK parts book that covers this vintage. John
  22. Yes, Brian. Definitely the reostat used by BUICK for a blower motor. I believe I have several NOS ones here. I wish I knew you had been looking for one, way back when. You noted the heater and the defroster control knobs are different shaped, for easy recognition by feel while driving. On the very original 1939 BUICK I owned for years, the reostat knob shape posted by johntsmith was on the heater blower motor speed control (not the defroster). It was illuminated by a small bulb. The knob for the defroster blower was a little bigger in diameter, with straight sides and not a great deal of depth. It was maroon plastic, so I never doubted it was correct for the '39 model year. John
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