KRmanr

Jason's comment made me think about my drive to Kansas City and back to Dallas in 2018. Our Riv doesn't have Electro-Cruise, but as I recall, the old fashioned "manual accelerator drive mode" was quite pleasant and surprising fatigue free. It had been 25 years since I last drove a significant clip to the ROA Nationals in Nashville TN. and the trip was essentially flawless in all respects. I look forward to another in the coming years.

For the record, the location of the '70 Eldo for sale is (New York) "MELVILLE, Long Island", not the '68 Eldo w/ Illinois license plates; still a valid concern though.

It appears that "Figure-120-129 1967 Riviera Wiring Circuit Diagram" did not upload in full resolution. I'll try another way or possibly start a new post with everything I've upgraded. Ref this zoomed screenshot for example. When I created my new replacement '67 forward wiring harnesses I noted the factory ENGINE side harness 10 gauge wiring from the starter and alternator to the Shunt DID NOT agree with the Buick Chassis Service Manual (Figure 120-129) so I fixed that.

Attached are Buick & Fisher factory chassis wiring circuit diagrams which I completely upgraded a few years ago because I got tired of looking at poor quality images. I've been meaning to share these (before something happens to me), so please share as you see fit. I have others too.

I would bet that all 2nd Gen Riviera floors where seats mount (outside) are the same, no matter if it came with buckets or a bench seat. The inner mounting points are likely an added raised pad with a bolt inserted and tack welded from the bottom. I vaguely remember because I broke a bolt off some 35-40 years ago on ours. Still, as I said previously, I don't think a formal bracket is necessary but shimming the feet up to level seat is likely required.

For reference, these pictures were on eBay titled "1966-72 GM B-Body 4-way Power Bucket Seat Track", however, the 2nd Gen Riviera bucket seat if very familiar from everything I can tell and remember. The most significant thing about seeing this is noting how the inner and outer mounting "feet" are configured. For now that's all I've got to offer. Oh, another point I had was that you do not necessarily need to add on an additional mounting bracket/plate at the inner mounting point, just bolt it to the floor. You could add an additional piece of steel sheet beyond the foot area for strengthening the floor.

Wow, no wonder he didn't sell that '68 at 37,500! 😲 Original Paint ... and (NOT) Factory Rally Wheels ... Someone was dreaming.😆

Just a follow along note just for '66 & '67 Hood Hinge parts: Years ago, thinking that '66 & '67 Hood Hinge parts were virtually identical, I switched out my original '67 Hood Hinges along with the mating fender sub-mount supports (only because I had already visually restored an extra set of '66 parts I had and wanted to re-restore my '67 parts). To my surprise, the hood fit & function was terrible... primarily at the rear of the hood. I'm fully aware of the ability for adjustment as the Buick manual addresses this subject, nonetheless, it was so bad I went back and installed my original '67 parts.

Just following up to ask if you were successful at finding correct engine mounts, one or both sides?

I'm pretty sure this image is nothing but CG by someone not affiliated with GM. I shared this on the ROA Facebook page prior to your post here, and was noted as CG by the private publisher -- someone who publishes wild and imaginative automotive CG's often.

Is this the same Riv you saw previously and finally snapped a picture? Or is this a different '64, which would be highly unusual and quite a coincidence? The mounting bracket and it's (not so simple) arrangement looks very professional (say factory original?) IMHO. It makes me wonder too.

Oh I very much am interested.

Art, thanks for your response on the "drums & hubs" post. As an M.E. as well, I must comment on your [86-87 Corvette--started using roller cams & lifters ... The whole idea was to get zinc/phosphates out of the oils] statement. - ROLLER designed valve trains are more complex and thus more expensive, but their primary advantage is reduced engine friction and much greater efficiency. If anything, the search for greater fuel mileage efficiency and engine power drove roller valve train designs. Removal of zinc/phosphates from motor oils was a technical lubrication evolution related to environmental concerns (primarily, IMO), and also as you noted, because of potential catalytic converter contamination.

That is some interesting randomness! And is it truly welded metal, not sealer?

To further this discussion, I would like to understand why Buick designed these front drum / hubs to be permanently assembled with these rivets. Many years ago I wanted to install a set of aftermarket wheels and these large rivets interfered with the wheels seating properly, so I drilled down the heads as evenly as I could, but I always wondered how much I may have affected their balance. The drums are obviously hub centric and should be able to be removed, and even turned and then replaced without issues.

That hanger piece sure looks like an OEM item to me and not aftermarket, albeit not necessarily the exact item for that exact location. Is the length of rubber your significant concern?

This post makes me realize just how very lucky I've been in the past driving on very old tires. I drove from DFW to Overland Park, Kansas in 2018 at 70-75 MPH on tires >12 years old, and I made it both ways, thankfully! I'm now riding on a new set of 235/75R 15's so I rest easier now, plus that fractionally larger size reduces my Hwy RPM's by approximately 150+/- at 70 MPH.

What then does Michelin's recommendation regarding inspection "five years and after tires would be inspected for safety" really mean? I believe Ed's point is that Michelin's recommendation is completely useless as is; without clarifying, detailed inspection criteria it is an open ended guess left up to each individual tire technician performing the inspections. Note, deterioration of tire rubber isn't necessarily visible to the human eyeball.

Was the "advertised" HP & Torque ratings different between (any year) GS and non-GS Riv's? Honestly, I would not be surprised if all Riv pipes were identical, except for possibly 2x4 barrel carb engines. Mufflers and Resonators seem a more likely difference. Also, the over the axle pipes sizing is limited because of the inherited tight clearance between frame rails and tires/wheels. Larger diameter pipes must be flattened out (even more to some extent) for clearance. I thought the factory over the axle pipes were flattened to some extent already? That's my recollection of tailpipe issues.

What you have circled there is the Track Bar (a.k.a. Panhard Rod, or Panhard bar, or track rod) a suspension link that provides lateral location of the axle. If the Bushings located at each end of this bar have never been replaced, it is certain that they should be replaced. I just replaced mine for the first time on our one-family-owned '67 Riv and it made a huge difference in handling and safe drivability. Ref: Track Arm Bushing Set (Panhard Bar) Part Number: 3.7111 Manufacturer: Energy Suspension -- Rear Track Arm Bushing Kit - Panhard Bar Part Number: 71210 Manufacturer: Prothane

I know my '67 430 is 1-1/8"

I have long rectangular flat digital bar tach, maybe 7/8" thick, mounted with double sided tape below my barrel speedometer. I bought it decades ago and didn't install it until about 10 years ago. It's next to perfect because it sits so inconspicuously there. I could never imagine a large round tachometer bolted anywhere in my '67 spaceship.

And no doubt, just when you think "you've got one completed", something else will occur and your trustworthy classic car will be down and in need of help. They're no different than us in that respect. 🙄🥺😉

I have a '67 Riviera and replaced the original regulator with a solid state unit from JC Whitney some 30 years ago, and it's worked fine all this time. Note: our ('66 & '67) regulator is a "generic" GM (1963-1970) unit fit for those same GM Alternator applications, even though sellers parts indexes don't reflect it. It doesn't matter whether or not the car is factory equipped with an ammeter; the Blue & Pink wires at the connector plug is what matters. FYI

I like them painted. Here's a great looking example.