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What's a 265 worth?


nick8086

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Not that I’m interested and I know everyone is trying to get rid of unwanted stuff cheaply, but instead of soliciting offers, it might be easier if you just post their location and how much you’re willing to pay ?

I assume at least enough to cover transportation costs, although local scrap haulers may pick them up for free. At least around here some of them do, but not all.

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A good idea might be to change the topic title on your posting.  My first reaction to it was "about a dollar less than a 266."  Next step is to decide whether you are just asking how much to charge for it or if you are actually trying to sell one.

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I sold a 1955-only 265 engine many years ago at Hershey, to a guy who was restoring a 55 convertible. IF I recall correctly, he paid $300 for it. It still had the correct numbers-matching distributor, carburetor, exhaust manifolds, flywheel/clutch assy, and bellhousing on it. But it was stuck. He bought it as-is. 

 

The fact is that, as Padgett already pointed out, that block was a one-year-only application. It had no boss on the driver's side bottom for an oil filter. So anyone who wants the correct-for-the-year block in their 55 Chevy has to have one. 

 

Take lots of photos, note the casting numbers and assembly date codes on them, and post them for sale. You might be surprised. 

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9 hours ago, 1937hd45 said:

Why is listing something for sale such a challenge?  Listing your location is step one. 

 

 

Bob 

 

Don't ever, ever list your region, state or city location, because "they" can get you!! 

 

Several years ago, I tried to make the point that listing one's location (region or state at least) was both informative and useful, especially if asking for assistance with a car that could best be handled by the visit of a nearby "expert/enthusiast".  I also find it interesting that we have many international members, from places as far away as Australia and South Africa.   I was thoroughly shut down by folks who think that listing one's location (region or state) could somehow compromise their security.  There are many things in life which I fail to understand, and that is one of them.

 

Cheers,

Grog

Paisley, Florida U.S.A.

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I have a buyer.. I just have not talked about the price..  I may keep this one..

 

The other one I want to sell.. It is just a block... and a few parts..

 

I found on line the in take was selling for around 400.00 

 

I was just looking for a ball park price as is..

 

may need to look at this first

http://nastyz28.com/sbchevy/sblock.html

 

 

 

IMG_0816.JPG

Edited by nick8086 (see edit history)
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9 hours ago, mike6024 said:

 

 

We will need your precise street address before we approve your above comments.

 

 

Now THAT'S what I'm talkin' about!  "We"?  Aha, proof positive that "They" are still out there.

 

Cheers,

Grog

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"your precise street address" - not hard to find if you know where to look. However I have watch cats. Anything happens they will watch.

 

Have found many times if I sell (or more likely to give away) something, six month later I need it.

 

Just pointing out that "100% as it left the factory" also means factory rejects, mistakes, & blunders.

 

ps this a good time to mention the dealer installed oil filter for the 265 ?

 

 

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16 hours ago, lump said:

I sold a 1955-only 265 engine many years ago at Hershey, to a guy who was restoring a 55 convertible. IF I recall correctly, he paid $300 for it. It still had the correct numbers-matching distributor, carburetor, exhaust manifolds, flywheel/clutch assy, and bellhousing on it. But it was stuck. He bought it as-is. 

 

The fact is that, as Padgett already pointed out, that block was a one-year-only application. It had no boss on the driver's side bottom for an oil filter. So anyone who wants the correct-for-the-year block in their 55 Chevy has to have one. 

 

Take lots of photos, note the casting numbers and assembly date codes on them, and post them for sale. You might be surprised. 

👆👆👆When I sold the flatheads, I learned this was important to the value. Also, does the motor turn? If it’s stuck, try putting marvel mystery oil under all the spark plugs everyday for a few weeks. That worked on the Jeepster motor and Jack got it running. (I think even Jack was surprised it unstuck). Are there cracks in it?  What is the bore? (Have to take it apart to tell, don’t ask me about boring, I just know it matters). Is it just a decent core or can you get it running? 

 

All of these factors play a part. Value can be anywhere from $100-$300 for a decent (not cracked) core, plus extra for carbs and other parts, to $2,000+ for a complete, restored runner, depending on model and demand.

 

Shipping is also a factor. Where are you located? I hear you can strap it to a pallet and ship it reasonably via Fastenal or Harbor Freight if I remember right?
 

Once you know what you have, google for recent comps. Look on completed eBay sales or on Tri 5 forums. A little research goes a long way. 

Edited by victorialynn2 (see edit history)
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