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Company to reline my Chandler brake bands


erichill

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Eric, You can but bits that have a pilot drill head on the end and a flat spade like cutter to undercut the material . Or you can send out to Ft Wayne brake and clutch  (Ind) . They do great work. Measure up the length and width of the material needed and they will quote a price.

brill bits for brakes.jpg

Edited by mikewest (see edit history)
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One solution I used for Dad's 1920 Overland was an Elevator Company. 

They use (or used?) brake lining material for the brakes on elevators and had the proper rivets and machinery to redo his. If you have such a company close by it might be worth your while to ask.

Elevators have as much risk as brakes on a car (maybe even more).

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I switched to bonded linings 30 years ago  on my 2 wheel braked Packard with external and internal linings.    No problems with those linings after 30 years and many long distance tours.     The linings are high friction woven material.    

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Thanks for the suggestions. The only fear I have with doing it myself is properly countersinking the rivet holes.  I will try Napa or local shops for suggestions for someone local to do the lining. I will have to research the difference between woven and bonded lining.

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Location is always a handy fact for giving supplier advice. 

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The reason for using woven linings on cars with mechanical brakes and harder linings on cars with hydraulic brakes is all about the friction factor between linings and drum.  Mechanical brakes exert a lower pressure between lining and drum than hydraulic brakes and the lining material needs to be matched to the application.  Woven works better than hard molded linings at the lower pressures and harder moulded linings work better at the higher pressure obtained with hydraulic brakes.   Having said that there are many grades of both woven and hard linings and specialist advice from a company experienced with the older cars is advisable.

 

I have no expertise in this area, the above is what was explained to me years ago by a company specializing in the supply of friction materials.

 

The question of bonded versus riveted is more about whether you want to do it yourself or have the job outsourced.  I am not aware of any negatives with bonded - I do not know if riveting is still done by any of the brake shops.     Riveting requires care in cutting the flat based countersink for the rivets to the right depth, too deep and the lining will let go and this is a l little more difficult to achieve with woven material.    You also need the correct star type punch to spread the rivets and a punch holder to keep the punch aligned to the rivet. 

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Thanks, Learning a lot here. As for location I am near Atlanta GA.  Have been asking shops around here for recommendations and I am hoping to find someone who can still do the riveting.  Interesting to learn why to use woven with the low pressure application of the mechanical brakes.  I inherited all the parts in boxes, so it was very interesting figuring out the puzzle of the brake linkage for the external bands and how it all worked. 

Thanks for all the input.

Eric

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I realize these people are a little off your patch, but they have done a couple of clutch and brake relines for me on my 28 Alfa and done a superb job; fast, efficient and not expensive. Might be worth dropping them an e-mail? They can do riveting or bonding with modern materials.

 

https://saftek.co.uk/friction-products-for-classic-vehicles-and-race-applications/

Edited by Alfa (see edit history)
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Mike thanks for the link to your earlier post. I did find a local shop that's been around for 70 years who are familiar with doing this so I am going to let them.  Figured their labor charge will be money well spent, and I will concentrate on other areas of work on the car.

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