Alfa

Members
  • Content Count

    273
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

31 Excellent

About Alfa

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 08/16/1966

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Old England

Converted

  • Biography
    Automotive Engineer, passionate about vintage & classic engineering and motor sport.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks everyone!! The De Soto valve is similar to the Buick one, I think. It is a flap rather like a choke flap in a carburettor, that pivots in the valve body, controlled by a bi-metallic spring. When cold, the spring ensures that the valve is held such that the exhaust stream from the manifold is directed upwards to hit the underside of the cast iron inlet manifold. The gas then does a U turn to head down the exhaust pipe. When warm, and the bi-metallic spring reacts very quickly if you get a blow lamp near it (!), the valve is rotated so that the hot exhaust is deflected downwards to the exhaust pipe directly and shielded away from the base of the inlet manifold. I very much appreciate all the advice here. I think I will try it without the valve, but in the knowledge that I can remove the manifold and drill and install if need be. Adam..
  2. I am fitting a new exhaust manifold to my 1935 Desoto Airflow SE 6. I have a bare casting and am busy drilling and tapping holes and the like. The manifold heat riser valve is secured into the old manifold by welding to the spindle in 3 places. It will be tricky to swap over and may necessitate a new valve. The problem is I need to get the car running very quickly, having agreed to drive some friends to their wedding in September. My question is, how important is the heat riser valve for driving in moderate conditions? Could I get away with leaving it out? even if only temporarily? I have heard of problems when the valve is stuck in one position and heating the base of the inlet manifold, but if there were no valve present, I think this should be less of a problem. Does anyone have any experience of this they can share? Thank you Adam..
  3. I am fitting a new exhaust manifold to my 1935 Desoto Airflow SE 6. I have a bare casting and am busy drilling and tapping holes and the like. The manifold heat riser valve is secured into the old manifold by welding to the spindle in 3 places. It will be tricky to swap over and may necessitate a new valve. The problem is I need to get the car running very quickly, having agreed to drive some friends to their wedding in September. My question is, how important is the heat riser valve for driving in moderate conditions? Could I get away with leaving it out? even if only temporarily? I have heard of problems when the valve is stuck in one position and heating the base of the inlet manifold, but if there were no valve present, I think this should be less of a problem. Does anyone have any experience of this they can share? Thank you Adam..
  4. You certainly can charge whilst the battery is connected (ignition off) and you can definitely connect the positive charger lead to the other end of the main lead where it connects to the starter. The earth lead can connect to any good ground (eg a cylinder head bolt).
  5. I agree with Stude17. Unless you can hear rumbling noises from the crankshaft main bearings, or knocking from a big-end bearing, I would not rush to strip the bottom-end. Try a 15W40 oil, or even a 20W50. It doesn`t cost much to try and those oils will maintain greater viscosity at 100 degrees centigrade than the SAE 30HD will. I would expect oil pressure to reduce with temperature, but is your 5lb reading taken at speed or at idle? If at Idle, I would not be too worried.
  6. edinmass is right. Any truck tyre fitters should be able to do it for you. Take a piece of old carpet or something to avoid scratching the rims. They might not think of that.
  7. Alfa

    le sabre 350cc

    Interesting. Thanks very much. I have a 1966 Sunbeam Tiger which has the Ford 289 V8 with a two barrel carb. It is a standard engine. I find that it runs happily on the 'regular' 95 ron octane fuel, but I am thinking that I will try it on some of the premium stuff when it comes out of winter hibernation. (It is currently receiving a new radiator, hoses and water pump, which were well overdue). I don`t expect that a change in fuel alone will make any appreciable difference, but I envisage that I may be able to run a little more ignition advance on the premium fuel without any pinking, but I will see what happens. Adam..
  8. Alfa

    le sabre 350cc

    If Alf is in the UK, the premium pump petrol is 97 ron. The regular stuff is 95 ron. There is approx. 5-7% ethanol content depending on source. I always buy the regular petrol. Including when I had a 1960 Buick Electra with the 401 engine and a 4 barrel carb. I suppose the premium petrol might let you run a bit more ignition advance. I tend to put in some lead replacement additive when on a long journey where everything might get hot, but valve seat recession does not seem to be a problem in local driving, especially given the tiny annual mileages involved. I would be very interested in your thoughts Rusty. Adam..
  9. I am fairly certain that this will be a light duty van. It is an 1989 GMC 2500, for which I think the gvw is 6,000lbs. So from what you have said, I assume it would have a catalyst fitted.
  10. A quick follow-up question; This has the gasoline engine; would it need to have a 3 way catalytic converter? They were not mandatory in Europe until 1993
  11. Thank you all for the efforts that you have gone to to help with this. I really do appreciate it. I will follow up on some of the references that you suggested and see where I get to. Thanks again Adam..
  12. Hello Please forgive me raising a work related question, but I work for Transport for London in the UK. I need to assess the emissions performance of a 1989 GMC Vandura with a petrol engine (I believe it is the 305 cu in V8). The vehicle has been converted into a mobile kitchen and food stall and is about to fall foul of the Ultra Low Emissions Zone in London. So my question is this; is there a handy (hopefully on-line) resource that will tell me the NOx (oxides of nitrogen) emissions that that vehicle would have had to comply with when it was new? I am hoping to compare the emissions limits and the drive cycle they were derived from against the European standards to see if the vehicle is compliant with the European Standard. It needs to be less that 0.11 grammes/km over the New European Drive Cycle. But what was the standard in US Federal regs in 1989? Thank you for any references or help you can give. Adam..
  13. Lovely car...what a find. My fave is a 1960, I used to own one, but this is very nice. Glad you found the problem with the transmission so quickly. Adam..
  14. Just a small thing, but check also that the air filter and the exhaust silencer (muffler) are clear. I have seen similar problems with a silencer that has collapsed internally and blocked the exhaust.
  15. I realize these people are a little off your patch, but they have done a couple of clutch and brake relines for me on my 28 Alfa and done a superb job; fast, efficient and not expensive. Might be worth dropping them an e-mail? They can do riveting or bonding with modern materials. https://saftek.co.uk/friction-products-for-classic-vehicles-and-race-applications/