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About Alfa

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  • Birthday 08/16/1966

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    Old England

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  1. Does anyone know if these manifolds are still available anywhere? Adam..
  2. Alfa


    Batteries are the same regardless of the earthing polarity of the car. There is no special battery for positive earth. They do vary for the position of the terminals (eg, top left and bottom right, or vice versa). The only effetc of this is making sure that your battery leads will reach. Model A`s start very easily, but I tend to go for the largest capacity battery that will fit in, just to make sure that I will not have a problem when using the lights and so on. Adam..
  3. Yes, Chrysler. You have a lot of work ahead of you. Good luck !!
  4. Hello John How nice to hear from you. I have a 1935 Airflow Croydon, which was the 6 cylinder car. It is a UK market car, but I think in the US these were sold as De Soto. The car is a sound original rather than restored condition, but well preserved. It is usually driven regularly, but is off the road at present as I am fitting a new exhaust manifold. I inherited the car from my father, who acquired it in 1969, I think. Being born in 1966, it has been in the family for longer than I can remember. I am not a member of the Airflow club, but keep meaning to join. I should really get around to it
  5. Sorry, mine is right hand drive, to drive on the left side of the road. Or is that what you are referring to? Adam..
  6. You may well be able to rebuild your existing wheel cylinders, but a new master cylinder (still available) is recommended as it is so safety critical. You can rebuild all the cylinders provided the bores are good enough. All the rubber kits are available locally. My SE has different bore sizes at each end of the rear wheel cylinders for the "leading and trailing" shoes. I suspect yours will be similar. Once set up, the brakes are superb. Adam..
  7. Hi Brad There is a healthy following for all vintage, post-vintage and classics cars in the UK and Europe, much as there is in the US. During the 1920s and 30s, US car makers had a good market in the UK with cars often imported in CKD form and completed locally (eg Chrysler) or "empire built" in Canada to avoid import duty (eg Buick), or else, manufactured in the UK (eg Ford T made in Manchester). These were all UK market cars so, built with right hand drive, UK lighting etc. Of course, there have beeen recent imports of collector cars too. I suppose many cars were destroyed in the WWII scrap
  8. Tmodelman Thank you for the advice regarding magneto, camshaft and alloy pistons. This is just what i needed. I will start checking out the parts for when I finally do Tin Lizzie`s engine. I must try to upload a picture of the old girl too. Adam..
  9. Alfa

    Old Tool ID

    I agree !! It is the tool for working the tyre off the rim on a tyre changing machine.
  10. My first thought is that a big-end bearing is at fault, especially if it started suddenly on the Interstate. However, it would normally go silent with the plug lead removed on that cylinder. You say that the noise sounds at the front/top. I would also be suspicious of a piece of trapped carbon being clouted by the piston, but at 2,500 miles there should not be any significant carbon build up. This leads me to think about a piston. It could be that a gudgeon pin has moved, or that a broken ring is allowing the piston to slap, or that an incorrect ring gap is causing the ring ends to meet. It ma
  11. Well, I am glad I started this thread for the lively debate it is producing. Thank you all for your comments. I have been giving this some thought and when I eventually do the engine, I think it will be to standard spec. Although that may include the alloy pistons. The Camshaft may well be worn too and i know the valves are not seating correctly as the exhausts "chuff" out of the tailpipe, which is probably where the main power loss is occurring. The main problem she has at the moment is that the bottom end knocks if the ignition is fully advanced, so I have to keep it about half way on the qu
  12. I am hoping to probe the collective wisdom of the forum with this one, so please bear with me. My Model T tourer is ready for an engine rebuild (has been for the last half century) and whilst it will be straightforward to rebuild it to standard spec, and awe-inspiring 20 bhp, the opportunity presents itself to increase the output at the same time. Although i am not sure if that means increasing the maximum rpm or increasing the torque output and looking for a higher axle ratio. One of the main limitations of the T is having just two forward speeds so that on hills, you lose all momentum befor
  13. Mike You could try G&S Valves in Surrey. You can google them for the contact details. They will make you anything you like and once did a set for a 25/30 Rolls for me. Very helpful and not expensive. Adam..
  14. Stick with your tried and tested 32psi. In my view those pressures quoted are a bit low. Some manufacturers seemed to do that for some reason. 32 psi will give you good tyre life (less heat build up) and a nice square wear pattern. If you are going on a long journey, it will be ideal for high speed/load, but I would run it all the time. Adam..
  15. Over here, Kunifer (trade name) is a cupro-nickel alloy which is widely used by OEMs and the aftermarket for brake lines and all similar pipe work. It is very robust. However, also widely used, particularly by me, is pure copper brake tubing. The wall thickness is slightly greater for a given OD, but it has a bursting pressure nearly as great as Kunifer and certainly adequate for a brake system, even on moderns. The advantages are that it is very malleable and easy to form into shapes in your bare hands (very handy under a vehicle), it is cheap, and it never rusts. I have been using it both on
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