dibarlaw

1925 Standard Saga Continues

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On 8/22/2017 at 9:41 AM, Daves1940Buick56S said:

I have had good luck with the Penrite 1200w semi-fluid grease.

 

Cheers, Dave

 

Very similar to Corn Head Grease.  Just costs more than John Deere....

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Thanks Mark and Larry I will check with ours.

 I worked up a cradle for the engine's transport to Hart's Machine shop. Today I will try to get a rental engine hoist.

The tugging and twisting begin...

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Larry,

 

I have not read all the posts, but regarding hoist rental, does not Advance Auto Parts let you borrow such stuff free of charge?

 

John 

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I don't think the crane/ cherry pickers are available.  I don't remember seeing them.

 

Go on Craigslist, buy one, and sell it after you are done with it.  Can be bought for as little as $100.00. 

 

Here is the Detroit listing as an example.  Use cherry picker for search.

 

  https://detroit.craigslist.org/search/sss?query=cherry+picker&sort=rel

Edited by Larry Schramm (see edit history)

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We have lift off! The engine that is. I decided to drive 15 minutes down the road an buy a 2 ton hoist from Harbor Freight. Checking locally nothing appeared on craigslist. It took Joan and I an hour to assemble last night. And when I am done with my engine jobs it can be sold. I may have to do this again with the Master and my 1937 is no spring chicken either engine wise. DSCF6303.thumb.JPG.29f26ce92e4e1742bd0d8e1bf9604c35.JPG 

I did have to remove the front bumper to get enough reach. I was able to arrange the lifting straps to be able to roll the engine to clear the right side frame rail. Notice the hardwood block at the starter gear box to keep the strap from slipping which gave me enough of a few degree roll to clear the frame.

DSCF6304.thumb.JPG.659511ae447b03e405c1d66739851cb3.JPGJoan is in on the engine dance act. My best helper ever!! 

The engine was at the correct attitude for twisting toward the left front fender to be able to clear the steering box at the rear engine mount casting. It did take several adjustments. Also using a floor jack under the flywheel for added stability.

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I used a piece of 2X3 across the floor board recess and a ratchet strap to support the transmission.

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And it fit the cradle I made for it perfectly!

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All told it probably took us 45 minutes with having to stop and re adjust.

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Looks good Larry.  Since you have the head and starter/generator unit removed, do you have any idea as to the weight of the engine?

 

Terry Wiegand

Out Doo Dah Way

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On ‎8‎/‎25‎/‎2017 at 10:09 PM, Larry Schramm said:

Great job.  Maybe I can meet you in Ohio next week.

Larry:

Tomorrow it will be going to Reeve Enterprises in Cazanovia NY. "Midman" is having his 1931 90 series engine done there and they come highly recommended. Travel to Hart's would be around 8 hours for me. I did not realize Cecil Ohio was nearly to Indiana. Reeve is around 4 1/2 hours straight up route 81. We can go up and back in the same day.

The other Larry:

Edited by dibarlaw
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Larry, Don't feel alone  in this'My 25 went down and I did a compression check and number 1 and number 5 have 0 compression.The other four have from 50 to 70 pounds dry.I am going to do a leak down test  tomorrow night when I get home so I can pin point the problem.So it may be time for a complete overhaul.

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Ron,  My motor is out too.  There may be 3 of us overhauling 1925 Standard motors soon.  My machinist is not available until October so I am waiting on him.

 

Larry, I think what Ron is getting at, he is wondering if Joan has time on her calendar to pull his motor.    

 

Hugh

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The 2 cylinder engine for my '08 is laying in the back seat of my truck getting ready to go to the machine shop on Wednesday if everything goes to plan.

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Delivered the engine to Reeve Enterprises in Cazinovia NY. About a 625 mile round trip. Left at 8 AM and returned at 9:30 PM. We are pooped.

Stay tuned for further developments.

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As I have mentioned to some of my other Buick Buddies, after the oil leak started this episode of the Standard saga, the Master also has now developed some issue in the lower front crankcase area. I have not had the inclination (guts) to investigate further. I need to attend to "Beulah" first. Buick Buddies (both Dave) dropped by this past week. First, "Dave's 40 Buick" and his Mrs. on Sunday stopped to pick up an Atwater Kent radio I found for him. I showed him what we had done with the cars so far. Also we drove to dinner in my 1937 that now is also going to the possible disabled list. On the return trip from the Buick Nationals the engine developed a dead miss somewhere in Ohio. When we got to my daughters near Indiana Pa. I was able to troubleshoot. I found that # 8 plug electrode was hammered shut. Something broke loose and was shooting around that cylinder. DSCF6208.thumb.JPG.3100ab6a2670fa076ba9bbdc1b6f1200.JPG

I changed oil before heading home as the dilution had added almost an extra quart in the pan. Total mileage round trip was 1,915 miles. On the final pulls over Sidling Hill and Tuscarora Mountains on route 30 I had some severe vapor lock. The manifold gaskets also gave up.

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Prior to the trip when doing my tune up all the cylinders were all over 85 lbs. to 90lbs. compression. Now that # 8 cylinder is down to 60 lbs. The plug I replaced it with is still ok after an additional 150 miles drive home but of course is now showing oil coating. I did not need another of my cars down. But as Larry Schramm told me... drive it, break it, repair it, repeat.

 Dave_B drove his 1928-25 up from Maryland on Friday to have me install a small part I adapted for his car. He was there to offer support and sympathy.

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Thanks Dave. I needed it.

 

 

Edited by dibarlaw
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You might try fishing a magnet through the spark plug hole to see if you can pick up whatever came loose and hammered your spark plug.

 

Maybe a broken ring???   If so, you can remove the piston from the bottom to fix it...

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Mark:

I will check with a scope/camera to verify. The fellow (another Larry) who is going to do the head on the Standard recommended that check be done in case a hole was burned into the pistons edge.

 In the mean time I have to start sourcing items for the Standard engine rebuild. He has not had time to look over the head yet. No word is back yet from the shop in NY. about the rest of the engine. Since I am having all the Babbitt work and new pistons etc. Larry recommended new valve springs. I know several of us 1925 Standard owners are having this type of work done. Are there any suppliers other than "BOB'S" for springs and guides to try? Oil pump gears are on my list. I lapped the bottom plate on my pump and the engine was running at around 25 lbs. pressure. I know the Master engine will need new gears and such also as it only ran at around 12 lbs.

 The hole is getting deeper and darker......

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Larry

If you have access to a Bridgeport the attached info should be all you need to rebuild your 25 Master pump with modern gears. Let me know if you have any questions. Someone on this forum may know if your 25 STD uses the same oil pump as the Master.... I did this to my 25 Master pump a few years ago and worked out great,just make sure your pressure relief works as it should. I run 0/20 synthetic in mine and has 25 PSI at hot idle with spark retarded. Engine was rebabbited rods and mains.

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Larry

I got my springs , guides and valves from Egge. After I did, I was talking to one of the club guys who was working on a 29 Cadillac.who advises me that he sourced his new valves from the Cat service facility who had a scrap bin full of old valves .

Seems the stem diameter for Cat diesel engines is the same .375". With a longer stem and larger head ,what isn't a usable valve for Cat is still usable for our old cars. All you have to do is shorten the stem , cut a new keeper groove and make the head a lot smaller.

That was the theory anyway.

It helped that another club member's son worked at Cat so access to the scrap bin was easy.

They are stainless and hard so the lathe work isn't easy but your talents should come in handy.

Brad

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I had stainless Ford diesel valves from the recycling bin turned into new valves for my Buick model 31.  Had the correct slots cut into them for the keepers, the machinist kept breaking cutters and not happy with the slots but they show and I wanted them. Cut the old valve guides flush with the valve cages and bored them out for modern valve guides to match the new valves.   Been working for the past 5 years.  Gary

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