Dave_B

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Everything posted by Dave_B

  1. The West Michigan chapter still sells them. $22.45 shipping included. Their ad is in the back of The Bugle.
  2. Interestingly the smallest Buick of 1941, the model 47, had 15” wheels. Go figure.
  3. Earl, you say the trouble started after you bought gas. Could it be a case of bad gas? I tore my hair out for months trying to figure out what was wrong with one of the Volvos. I went through the fuel system and ignition. Several times. No luck, then a good friend suggested I check out the gas and sure enough that was it. Moral of the story, check the easy cheap things first. Something I had forgotten. Dave
  4. It looks like a 28 standard. That is the location of the "sending unit." The fuel gauge is on the dash which is nice when it works. Otherwise it's the same as 27 and earlier. Ya gotta get out and look. I use a dipstick. Dave
  5. John, I see what you mean about parallel, hmmmmm. And it says Pillar Lamp Door Switch, so that could be jamb switch. As you say in the 7 passenger sedan and/or limo. IDK Dave
  6. Jack, Bloo and company, I drove it up to Baltimore this morning on the battery to the shop that checked out the generators. The I95 traffic was light, thankfully. I got there and they were able to take me right away. The tech (old guy with slightly more hair than me) came out with a helper and his multi meter and got right to work. We all kept our distance like we're supposed to. He checked a few things out and in about 15 minutes he had sussed out. Now here is the embarrassing part of the story...... The wires at the generator were reversed. Damn I'm sure I checked that out but I still I had it backwards. Mark you were right, it was the wiring. That was what I was thinking too but I forgot Occam's Razor, the simplest answer is most likely the right answer. Sorry to get everyone excited for nothing. Anyway, Here's the good news, it was a 75 mile round trip, 95% of which was interstate at 60-65 mph, I used 4.48 gallons of gas. Do the math, 16.74 mpg. Something must be wrong here that can't be and yet there it is. I'll keep an eye on it and see if I can repeat those results. Thank you, all. You guys are the best. Dave
  7. John, The dome light switch is on the door pillar, on the passenger side, if memory serves me well. Just to be clear it is not jamb switch. It is a little sliding on/off switch on inside of door pillar. Standard series closed cars as well as masters. I believe it is wired in series. Dave
  8. Jack, I called the generator repair shop and shop manager agrees with you, the generator is externally grounded. I polarized the generator by momentarily jumping the Gen to Batt terminals on the regulator. Still no charge. I checked the voltage output at the regulator and at the generator both 0.00 volts. Got the generator blues. If the governor doesn't shut everything down I'm going to take it into the shop. Dave
  9. Jack, I was told it was internally grounded and so I used that method. I hope I didn't fry anything. I am a little concerned because output at the generator is 0.00 volts right now. That is measured from the armature terminal to ground. Don, I checked the ground on the regulator and it is good. 2carb, Jumper wire? from where to where? I did use a jumper wire from the field wire but at the regulator end. I jumped it to the batt terminal on the regulator. Got a healthy spark too. I've been keeping the battery well charged.
  10. The generator in my 41 mod 47 has made squeaking noise since I got it a little over a year ago. I bought a replacement generator last year but inertia set in and I didn't get to it till this year. The old one was making so much noise I had a hard time tuning and balancing the new carb setup. I had to swap out the pulley and I put the new generator in the car. No charge. I polarized the generator, no change. I put the old one back in. No charge. Polarized that one, no difference. I took both up to the generator shop and they checked them out. Both are good. I bought a NOS Delco-Remy regulator. Put that in and it made no difference. I didn't think it would but I thought I had to try. About the Amp meter: When I start the car the amp meter used to show a charge and gradually drop to zero. Now it shows a very slight negative charge with the engine running and does not move as rpms are increased. If the headlights are on it shows discharge. Increasing the rpms makes no difference. Battery: Voltage at the battery is 6.25. Voltage is 6.25 at the regulator Batt terminal engine off. Engine on, 6.15 V. Gen shows 0.00V across the Arm terminal to ground. Gen to block no resistance i.e. ground is good. The wiring harness is a little crispy-crunchy so I ran a pair of new wires from the generator to the voltage regulator. No difference. I double checked that the it was hooked up correctly. It's all good. I am stumped. What do you guys think?
  11. Barry, If you want more power use a Rover block and heads. Your Buick oil pan, timing chain cover, valve covers, intake and exhaust manifolds will all bolt on. You can't tell the difference and nothing beats displacement, 4.6L 277ci in this case. That's what I put in my 68 Volvo. Dave
  12. Well there ya go, learn something everyday. Ha! Dave
  13. Here's a tiny detail: The accelerator return spring is hooked into a special clip on the accelerator throttle rod shown in the book of parts. Picture is of my my 28 but, correct me if I'm wrong, I think it's the same in 25. Dave
  14. Buickborn, thanks for the good info. I will broaden my search.
  15. Dave. Thanks we should get together Dave
  16. Bloo, I hear what you're saying and it makes sense but so far my experience has been that it starts right up with only the front carb choked. The front carburetor is the same one that was I was running solo and it never used to start so well. It wasn't hard starting but you had to crank it for a few seconds. Now it's just, boom, started. Like I said, go figure? I will admit that now it will start right up but cough once and then all is good. This morning when is was about 45* I started it with the rear carb half choked and it started right up with no cough. Friday morning it will be in the low 20s and I'll try it then and see what happens. As to the fast idle: the two are tied together so when the front carb is on the fast idle cam it pulls open the rear throttle an equal amount, so they are in sinc. Best, Dave
  17. I need the air scoop for a generator that's used with the "Compound Carburetion Equipment." I also need the pulley and fan. The pulley is 3 13/32" diameter and the belt groove is 11/16 wide. I don't need the generator but if you don't want to take it apart I'll take the whole thing. The generator does not need to work or even spin. You should be able to get it into a flat rate box (hopefully) . Thanks, Dave
  18. Thanks Matt and pont35cpe, your comments increase my comfort that I'm on the right track with the chokes. So far it's working, don't fight it. Dave
  19. Peter, Basically, I bagged the automatic rear choke. I have the manual choke, just in case. Hey, it left the factory with only one choke on the front and so far that works just fine. Dave
  20. Thanks Peter. Thanks Morgan. Yes, I added the the sleeve to the air filter to make up the difference for the missing "damper valve assembly." I saw your problems with the choke interference with air filter body and I don't trust my metal shaping skills, this was easier. You blazed the trail for me. As for the choke, I have been running it without a choke on the rear carb and it starts right up. The car had a hand choke when I got it, so for now, I put the hand choke on the rear carb and use as needed which, so far, has been never. Go figure. One thing that's bugging me though is the chevy orange valve cover. Gotta paint that thing! Ha!
  21. When I was in high school I kept my 28 in a garage I rented for $5 month. My buds and I would hang out there, no adult supervision. Here we are in spring of 1969. Dave
  22. I drove the car to the muffler shop with open exhaust. It was loud. I didn't get pulled over for excessive noise. Ha! They fitted the Y pipe and connected it to existing exhaust pipe. The muffler shop also made the extension piece for the air filter. All painted and looking good. Went for a test drive and she runs really well. Nice bottom end torque for backing up hill slowly to get out of my driveway and on the interstate there is plenty of power. Next, I'll be checking the gas mileage. Dave
  23. I'm having fun with the technology. Can't seem to get the files in the right order. Oh well I'll just make multiple entries. I got the plumbing done, below that is the trial fitting of the air filter. Bottom pic shows the extension piece between the rear carburetor and air filter.
  24. Here is a shot of the throttle linkage. I used original linkage parts that came with dual manifolds. I opted to have a direct link to rear carb. I made the rear link from the linkage that came from my original set-up. In the bottom picture you can the linkage winding around the exhaust manifold.
  25. I decided to mount the rear carb on the same spacer as the front carb. I removed the long studs and swapped them out for ones I pulled from the old manifold. Here you can see the carburetors in place.