Dave_B

Members
  • Content Count

    379
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Dave_B

  1. Hi All, I have three 1941 tags I want to have redone. Of course I want a decent job at a reasonable price. Any recommendations? Thanks, Dave
  2. Yup, it is the 118" wheel base, three inches shorter than the B body Special. The A body car's overall length is 6.25" shorter too and sixty pounds lighter. Not much difference as far as I can see. But I like it.
  3. As some of you know I have been looking for a '41 Special Model 47 for a few years. I wanted a pre-war straight eight car and I like compact cars and this is the closest thing to a compact pre-war Buick there is. (Is compact pre-war Buick an oxymoron? JK) This is the A body four door sedan that was introduced in February 1941. I had looked at several cars both virtually and actually and finally found this one in suburban Detroit. It met my criteria and fit my budget. I bought it sight unseen but I did have fellow BCAers check it out for me. (Thank you Larry Schramm and friend.) When it arrived I was not disappointed. It's an unrestored unmolested rust free car. It has 41,000 miles on the clock and over the years has had one re-paint and the seat cushions have been recovered with NOS material. So it''s a nice clean car. These Pictures were taken last fall the day it arrived. Check it out. Dave B
  4. Hi Rod, I’ve been lurking, For ‘28 the shift pattern went to the regular three speed pattern we all know, the ignition switch moved to the steering column with a locking steering column, the light switch moved to the steering, new back up light, Standard series gas and temp gauge on the dash, shock absorbers factory installed equipment, hand crank went through the bottom tank of the radiator on the standard, two strut rods from cowl to radiator, new distributor, “v” fan belt in master series, lots of engine tweaks, back to two piece windshield on open cars, no adjustable seat in standard series sorry to say, last year for all nickel. 29 had chrome exterior and nickel interior. Dave
  5. Beautiful job, Larry. You have great skills. I'm jealous Dave
  6. Kyle, I got mine about 15 or 20 years ago so I don’t remember the cost plus the price has probably gone up. I sent them my old ones and they made the new ones and sent everything back. I think the they are made to order. Mine were rough too but the new ones were a thing to behold. Dave
  7. Kyle, Back to the door sills, for a second..... I got mine from Door Sills LLC (who would have guessed?). Don Kuehn is the boss, 973-423-1196. He is located in New Jersey. He did a great job. They are identical to the original and made from aluminum just like the original. Dave
  8. Kevin, they are available from Bob’s Automobilia. bobsautomobilia.com Dave
  9. Plain City Harley, Acording to the 27 shop manual the 120" wheel base 2 door and 4 door sedans are 76" high. It doesn't look like it will make through a six foot high opening. Dave B
  10. Thanks Larry. I'm sorry to have missed John Fesser and his '28. It's a great car. Love those beefy tires. Dave
  11. Going back to the offset piston pin for a minute. I did a search "why offset wrist pins" and it appears there are two reasons. One was to reduce piston slap by introducing lateral forces pushing the piston against the cylinder wall. The other was to change the angle of the connecting rod to the crank at TDC. At the end of the article In the comments section there was this: One guy said "it is like when peddling your bike and you stand up off the seat and move your center of gravity forward so you body mass is ahead of the crank spindle when you push down. It's probably not that simple but that's the general idea." And another "The benefits/drawbacks of using pin offset usually makes for a lively topic of discussion among armchair engineers. The reality is that it probably does not make a whole lot of difference unless the offset is huge. The typical offset is usually around 1mm to 2mm. That amount of offset can reduce the noise from piston slap, but it won't really affect combustion efficiency much. The piston motion around TDC becomes asymmetric, with a lower initial velocity after TDC and a higher velocity just ahead of TDC. It just becomes a trade-off." And here are piston dimensions for standard engines 25 through 28 according to my Spring 1931 Chilton Automotive Multi-Guide Bore Piston Height Compression Height 1925 3" 3 13/16" 2 1/4" 1926 3 1/8" 3 13/16" 2 1/4" 27&28 3 1/8" 3 49/64" 2 3/16" Willys 3 1/8" 2.167" Dave
  12. Leif, Great job! I didn't know Buick made that model. It took more than a little imagination to bring all those parts from different cars together to create something that looks like it could have been factory. Johnny Cash has nothing on you! Best, Dave
  13. Well done Larry and Joanie. PS you're a lucky man, Larry. Dave
  14. That's a tasty looking menu but Lisa and I won't be getting to town till about 8. Have a great time guys, I look forward to seeing everyone on Friday. Dave B
  15. In the 20s I think they were unpainted, at least the core. Cheers, Dave
  16. Tom, That's good news. I'm glad I could help. Cheers, Dave
  17. Tom, Try Egge Machine. They might have one. Dave
  18. It's in the shop manual, page 5. Model 51; Overall length 183.75 in. Width 68.25 in. Height 72 in. The master engine in '28 was the 274cid Cheers, Dave
  19. Travis, After assessing the carb float that you have and replacing as needed you could lap the needle and seat of the valve you have and see if that helps. You can also replace the valve with a Grose Jet valve. Google it and you will find it. I have used a Grose Jet valve for years and it has worked well for me. Dave
  20. To me Mark's axle looks like a '27. The '28 has the lugs for the shock straps on the brake backing plate and the strut rod lug bolts to the torque tube, it is not riveted on as his is in the pic. The diagram in the Master Parts List is showing a '29 axle. Check out the hub cap. Also I'm looking at the pictures of the bearings and race on the axle and they look to be serviceable. Well as much as I can see. Dave
  21. I love it! it really turned out great. I had been watching your progress on the Speedsters forum. This is a minor detail compared to the challenges of a project like this but I know what a bear it can be to tune and synchronize two SU carbs but 4? My hat is off to you sir. Dave
  22. Gary,, For the transmission Pennzoil has a product called Synchromesh. It is GL3 and is made for use in manual transmissions. It should work well and is sold at Advance Auto stores and probably other parts stores. For the rear I would use the regular 80-90 gear oil for hypoid gears. I don't think there any brass parts in the rear so that is not a concern there. Cheers, Dave
  23. Phil, Great job. It is coming together beautifully. I love the dark blue. Can't wait to see the dash. Stove enameled finders? I'm not familiar with that, care to elaborate?. I like those substantial looking tires what are they, size and brand? Dave
  24. The one shown on eBay is for a 29 and up. The 28 spark cover in flatter and more angular. Also the wing nuts are plain. Bob's sells the wing nuts, or they used to. Dave
  25. Hi Leif, The jeep pistons are for the years 1941-71 for the 134 ci/2.2L in line 4 cylinder engine, both flat head and the F head that was used in the cj series jeeps in those years. I found the pistons at United Engine & Machine Co uempistons.com They are in the Silv-o-lite catalog part #2606. They come standard size and over size starting at .010 through .080. I didn't see a price. Cheers, Dave