25 Buick

Thank you for the input. I would have to go digging just to find any parts in the pile. My thoughts have been confirmed big project for the time/money. I will try to get the car to salvage parts for myself and others. Will post how I get on. thanks 39buick I will look for running boards. Thought it may have been a larger series due to the spare wheels in the guards?

Hi am interested in a car to save from scrap. Is a 1940 Buick rhd believe to have the spare wheels in the front guards/fenders. fully stripped and now very rotten everything , weather has got to the parts over at least 20+years. im a sucker for huge projects but is this a desirable car? Is there any tell tales parts I could look for to give me an idea on what model it is ? the motor looks like it's been in the ocean... i will try to get it and if successful do an inventory of parts at least then if it's not worthwhile to restore some parts can be used between other Buick owners. chasing some other opinions thanks brendan

What size wheels is that with? I'm only having the shed for storage of the Buick and other cars. Wanting to keep height as low as needed. Needing a height to work out door opening and work from there. The roof I will slant down to the smaller cars. i already have a large shed workshop, this is just going to be a clean zone insulated storage.

Does anyone have the overall height of a 1925 55 sport tourer? With top up and large diameter tyres. I'm planning a shed for mine to live when completed and want to allow correct roof height

Thanks for your quick replies, the set I need to use will require a lot of restoration work but I am trying to go through my parts and 1. Work out what is correct 2. Fix them many thanks, brendan

The rears on the larger nickle buckets are different in where the wire enters. I'm narrowing down the results at least ! ? which is correct for 24/25. Then I will have my pair of lights ready to be restored... hopefully

I have a early car and happy with 1924 lights if all I have. Currently the top of photo is all the larger diameter. Osgood lenses are 8 3/4. Is there a right and left? Mixture of outer rings I'm guessing the one without screw hole what I need. And possibly going with a no crease reflector as none in the larger size. There is a larger set with only a couple creases on one side. Is this 1924? I also have tiltray lenses and osgood. Which is preferred

For the 1925 master 55 sport touring. What headlight is correct. I assume all the same diameter but Nickle or painted outside. But I have a few different internals. One smooth, one with a couple of creases, one with all creases. What is the correct for my model or a 24. Also what lens is correct? I have a large amount of lights for 20s models and trying to pick the correct ones while I'm refurbishing other lights at the same time

Here is the 26+ standard on a master rad honeycomb. Concrete sealed in front lower but not back.

I have a honeycomb radiator here from a 27standard, and they stopped some of the leaks with , yes concrete! I will get a photo for your enjoyment

I will be painting mine with automotive enamel most likely. As is what new radiators are painted with and while suffer heat transfer losses, not enough to render any major issues with temperature. Trick is to paint on heavy angles as to coat only the outer edges of core fins and not straight on to advoid excessive paint build up internally. Each to their own but the large air gaps and minimal paint can't see a major effect. I will also be using waterless coolant in this car to advoid any boiling issues. benefit from heat paints is great however I'm thinking more along the lines of durability and ease of cleaning and the heat paints while thinner won't last and since the core is the grill of sorts and on display I will take the slight effect of heat if any over the ease of cleaning anytime.

I'm back, I welcomed my first child two and a bit months earlier than expected and nearly lost mum in the process. All on track now and with zero money (baby's are expensive... more than cars! ) but there is is never a good time to have a project so I figure I will work on it when I can. Got new radiator and core completed, with nickel plated top. Not happy with the top some splatter and scratch marks from the platers. I may see if I can get it nickel plated again while attached? i went with a core style that looked old, as mine was not a honeycomb but large horizontal. I will be painting the rest black and mix a silver colour for the core to mimick the original solder. Hope to continue working on bits whenever I can. need to source a restorable surround now or painstakingly rebuild the one I have brendan

Smell your oil. If the fuel is too rich and getting into the oil it can very quickly destroy an engine.

I find overnight is enough to remove rust with a fresh batch. As the batch gets old and turns to vinegar stops working. Vinegar is good old as a converter but I haven't had any experience with vinegar removing oxide. I think it must be the sugars

Molasses 1 part, water 10 parts. Same active ingredients as the expensive brands. But $1 per litre. Non toxic but bit gross. Hence the gloves. Wash off with pressure washer dry and coat with desired rust covertor or primers. evaporrust and other items non toxic use same ingredients without the grossness. however cheap and I make large tub 100litre for $10. Throw wheels and anything you want rust removed from in and out like tubes etc. eat the rust off does not remove paint or affect the steel, only the oxidising

Probably a silly question. But does anyone on here have a leak free Buick engine? i know the technology is dated but has anyone managed to reengineer or rebuild an engine to where it is leak free. interested in the solutions before I start on my rebuild of master 6 engine, in case of any modifications needed along they way. only interested in engine oil leak fixes or remedys thanks in advance

Yes there has been some discussions with Buick qld members about rebuilds. the use of aluminium Buick pistons from 36 and boring the block to suit. I am am interested in the workings of roller lifter as they went away from this design for many years. I may take some out of my muscle car and see if they have any obvious improvements that can be worked into the old cars design

Thanks for your replys. seems getting a new cam made is the consensus here. what about oiling or modifications to prevent future wear on what will be a new expensive cam.

Hi, after having a new baby girl I'm finally getting some spare time to get back into the 25buick master 55x. have noticed out of all 6 spare cam shafts I have they are all worn badly from the roller lifters. seems they seize up and stop rolling causeing a lot of wear over the years. what have others done about this issue? Do you grind the cam and make larger diameter rollers to compensate the underside lobe? i know metal spraying and regrinding is the prefer option but I'm building the car on a budget. any info would be great, also if anyone has modified their oiling system to prevent this occurring again where the roller wears the cam out. cheers Brendan Australia

Thanks Hugh, yes I was more interested in the tanks and other parts coatings. Looking at what's left of mine doesn't seem to have an residue of paint. Must have been zinc steel and what solder was splashed onto it left as is. So a silver colour or a zinc coating would work

Thanks this will make things easier!

I'm currently getting the 1925 master radiator redone. I understand the radiator fins are left with the solder to achieve a silver look. But what is on the rest or the parts top and bottom tank, surround brackets etc. were these painted or zinc steel. Need to work this out before they finish or some parts will be rusty?

Simple question. can the sump of a 1925 master Buick be removed with the engine still in the car. I'm wanting to rebuild most of the top end of the motor while it's installed in the chassis. once the crank, cam, oil pump front cover and rear housing are on, hoping to put back onto the chassis then continue to rebuild the remainder of the engine. Rather than build the whole engine on a bench and then install to chassis.

Since you were playing with the options earlier. Possible you have blown the high beam part of the sealed beam

Is it a master steering wheel?