Jim Bourque

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About Jim Bourque

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  1. Make a fulcrum that can be attached to the manifold studs/bolts and lever them in with a crow bar if you don’t have room to swing a hammer.
  2. My great grandmother and great grandfather with my grandfather in the back seat in approximately 1908
  3. The boring bars I have seen use a Bridgeport mill power feed motor/gearbox. They are variable speed and can be found used
  4. I don’t know if the 24 Master is different than the 25 Master, the shaft the clutched gear runs on has a small step on it so one end has a slightly larger diameter which allows it to only be removed one way. If removed the wrong way it FU’S the bushing in the gear and you still won’t get it out. Please don’t ask how I know this... Jim
  5. WOW! Every 1925 Buick Master 6 engine I have has a fiber timing gear. Jim
  6. You have the pressure relief as it shows in your picture from another thread. I am 99% sure I have all the shaft pieces, not going to be prefect but certainly serviceable with a little work or I could make you new ones. The parts I need to look at when I get home is the 165240 oil pump shaft bearing. If my old memory serves me correctly I have 2 ? of those but I think 1 is broken. As far as the gear is concerned, I have some used ones but I would recommend getting a new one from Bobs Automobilia in Califunny. With either a new gear or a used gear the shaft will need to be shimmed, drilled and reamed for a Morse taper pin. The top picture is your pressure relief valve. I would recommend that you take it apart to verify the spring is intact and the plunger and seat are OK. Inspect the tubing for cracks. The oil pump bottom plate should be looked at as well as typically it will have grooves worn in it. Resurface if needed. The pump drive gear to pump housing should be bushed to remove the wear as well. I also have info to upgrade the pump to modern gears if needed.
  7. I have some 25 Master parts. I will look in my spares when I get home on Tuesday.
  8. Something that should be checked on cars with the dreaded death wobble is the side to side wear in the spring shackles on both ends of the front axle springs. If you can move at all, its to much. Shim for zero clearance. This solved the death wobble on my 25 Master and my 28 Cadillac Hope this helps Jim
  9. I bet Donita has a boss that would not want to here what you have to say...
  10. Mark Have you had a look at the gear that drives the oil pump that is driven by the camshaft? Typically it’s brass and it may be worn.... Very easy to get at with where you are at in your process. I do like to promote mission creep 😜 Jim
  11. The only timing marks that need to be aligned are the cam to crankshaft. The water pump shaft doesn’t matter as the ignition timing is set with the distributer. Looking good and great progress... Jim
  12. Making an adapter sleeve to fit the ID of the Heim joint and the OD of the stud would be a simple lathe project. Or look into a stud and bearing mount product if your clearance is only 10-20 thousandths. My question would be, how do you keep the heim joint/sleeve on the stud ? Can you remove the stud from the frame? Is there enough stud length beyond the heim joint /adapter to thread for a nut and washer? Drill and tap for bolt/washer? Cross drill, washer and split pin? Jim