Jim Bourque

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About Jim Bourque

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  1. Making an adapter sleeve to fit the ID of the Heim joint and the OD of the stud would be a simple lathe project. Or look into a stud and bearing mount product if your clearance is only 10-20 thousandths. My question would be, how do you keep the heim joint/sleeve on the stud ? Can you remove the stud from the frame? Is there enough stud length beyond the heim joint /adapter to thread for a nut and washer? Drill and tap for bolt/washer? Cross drill, washer and split pin? Jim
  2. Thank you for your response. Was there a reason you opted for a vane pump verses a gear pump? My experience with old cars only goes back to the mid 20’S cars, and have never seen a vane type pump in any application, only gear. Jim
  3. I understand you want to make all the parts yourself for this project, but have you considered making a housing for a gerotor/trocoid type oil pump that you canibilized from a modern car/motorcycle? With the considerable effort that you have put into this project, would the peace of mind of having a proper pump hidden inside a housing that you fabricated be more acceptable to something that you are not 100% will work for at least 10,000 miles or more? I am not a fan of vane type oil pumps for any application especially for the “heart” of an engine. I am not posting this to throw stones at you, only to see that you are successful at realizing your vision of a completed project that can be driven without worrying that the oil pump is supplying enough oil to the parts that are made out of unobtainium. Jim
  4. If it is like Hugh’s picture, I would not screw it back into the block. The fitting inside will probably be loose or the tube will be cracked and will dump oil directly back to your sump reducing the oil pressure.
  5. Drop the pan. It will be obvious as to what is attached.
  6. Hal is one of the good guys, he helped me with my Cadillac vacuume fuel pump. I highly recommend his products and service. Jim
  7. I don’t think you are putting that wonderful car in a dumpster. 😜
  8. Bernie I am amazed at the holiday you and your wife are planning, not to mention having to install your Rapier transmission upon arrival in Europe. I hope all goes according to plan. Jim
  9. This is what I did with my shaft for ease of serviceability. Repeatable runout .0015. Original Buick gear end, keyed rigid coupler I made, 304 SS shaft.
  10. Bernie You are absolutely correct. Staying busy will not be a problem, as my car and motorcycle collection will keep me active as well as upkeep on 3 houses and 2 barns. The problem will be finding time to travel.... My latest passion is learning how to machine parts and fabricate special tools with my Bridgeport mill and Southbend lathe. Next is a small furnace for casting. Jim
  11. Bernie I hope that you have a way to keep all of us updated on a daily/weekly basis while you are on your upcoming European adventure. Remember we like lots of pictures. I will be retiring in the next few months and trips like you have done and will do are at the top of my bucket list. Please keep the info coming on the Lagonda Rapier Jim
  12. Mark The shaft in all likelihood is past its useful life due to corrosion at the packing nuts as well as the sleeve bearings in the pump housing being worn out. With that being said, cut the shaft to remove. I would also recommend that you remove the starter generator and go through it prior to using it. Have you pulled the clutch inspection plate yet to have a look? Jim
  13. I think it’s the paved road....😊 Jim
  14. Mark While you have good access to the block core plugs, it would be a great time to pull them and make sure you don’t have built up crud in your block. It is likely the plugs are steel and probably ready to rust through. What is the red car hiding in the garage? Jim
  15. Clean it up and get it running. You will wonder how you got along without it. The problem that happens next is where to find a serviceable mill... Lots of info on the net for these old lathes. Jim