Beemon

Me and my beautiful 1956 Buick

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I didn't have the throttle linkage adjusted properly since I had to shim the throttle tower away from the head for the new valve covers so I was a bit disappointed I didn't see WOT. 

 

I did have a pretty big scare, however. There was a steady stream coming from the driver side cylinder head. I pulled the valve cover and was frantically looking only to see that it was the temp gauge sender... what a sigh of relief! After getting up to temp and filling with garden hose water, I shut her off and re-torqued the head bolts again to 75 ft lbs following the bolt pattern. If I were to guess, they loosened up to about 65 ft lbs. I'm going to re torque after 500 miles. 

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22 hours ago, Beemon said:

I think if I trim the screws on top, it would look better.

 

How 'bout trim the length and install acorn nuts?

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I hate those scares lol but at least nothing major.. I'm sure you're aware and probably need it up there but don't forget to run antifreeze to keep everything clean

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6 minutes ago, EmTee said:

 

How 'bout trim the length and install acorn nuts?

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Acorn nuts was what I wanted initial, but I couldn't find any in #4 size :(

 

anti freeze is coming next. This was to just get it out of the car port. I'm going to have a shop vacuum flush the coolant. 

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I dI'd some driving tonight. The difference in power is crazy. I thought i had a true nailhead when i had first engine rebuilt.. then i thought i had one with this engine.. all this I thought the Dynaflow was the slug.. turns out it was my engines! 

 

I did have another casualty this evening... the second generator gave up it's last leg. Which sucks, because it was a 35-40 amp generator someone had gotten into. Both generators need new armatures.. so the alternator came back out of hibernation.

 

Tomorrow is the real test, I'll be driving to see my father on the coast. Wednesday I make the big drive across the state back to school. With my luck the fuel pump will go out! Nah, we'll make it. 

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+1 on the Dynaflow! When the engine is right the Dynaflow is great!  How goes the engine temp? Where dpes the needle sit with the 160 t-stat.  Bring a 180 with you to school. The 160 will never warm up enough for heat in around town driving. 

And good luck!

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The needle on my gauge sits below N all the time with the 160. I still have the 180 I pulled out and it's good. At idle I was getting some heat but it didn't sweat me out.

 

A guy local is selling a new reman generator for $30, it may be my saving grace. However, with two for two, I think it may be time to save for a PowerGen.

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46 minutes ago, Beemon said:

The needle on my gauge sits below N all the time with the 160.

 

Thanks, That's where mine used to sit when I used the 160 T stat too.  I do believe that 160 resulted in many a fouled plug when using the car just around my small town in Wayne County, NY.  Also noticed I never got decent heat out of the heater too.  Would hardly warm up the chilled air by the dashboard.  Haven't had a problem since I went to the 180 full time but I was so used to seeing that needle below the N, after decades like that , that a decade later I still have trouble adjusting mentally to the needle being just at or over the N on the gauge now.  But the last 1200 miles have helped with that.

I agree on the Power-Gen.  And am considering the same for the eventual day.

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Funny even when I as in Colorado and it was 10 degrees out I got plenty of heat to the point I had to turn it down..160 between c and n unless super hot and running in and out then right at n.... I can vouch for the powergen love mine..I do have two rebuilt low mine gens you're welcome to for cost of shipping.. But that might be pricey due to weight

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Added in some cheap aftermarket gauges. They add a sense of relief because now I can really see what's going on. Idle I'm getting about 25-30 oil pressure and cruising is about 35-45 psi. Temp is what you'd expect, about 160-170. I was idling at a drive thru today and it crept up to 180 but didn't get much hotter. I might swap back in the 180 t stat since I'd like to see temps a little bit higher for the fabled 

190 degree complete combustion burn (thinking it's a smog thing). Heater core seems to heat up fine. 

 

While i was shopping for a gauge cluster, I happened to notice that the parts store had a heads up display kit. It blew me away! I'm not a fan of looking down so maybe in the future when I can invest in some electrical senders, I can do something like that instead.

 

Washer jar was giving me a vacuum leak... the reproduction lids have like a 5/8 hole and the original was a 1/2 inch hole, where the vacuum port goes into the large pump chamber. I was getting a vacuum leak here, and could audibly hear the vacuum pump open. That's why my washer fluid was not squirting. So I went and bought a neoprene fender washer with 1/2 ID and cut it down to fit under the control box on top of the lid (the vacuum pump section sealed to the bottom of the lid gasket). This did the trick, I shot washer fluid 3 feet over the top of the car! I got the nozzles set so it just hits right below the stainless. I like this the best because then it hits the tops of the blades and cleans the whole windshield. Now I just need to take the co-ordinator apart and figure out why it keeps binding when vacuum is applied. Oh! Don't buy the repro washer nozzles. I don't know what they fit, but they do not fit my wiper bezels. I ended up reusing my old ones after cleaning them out. 

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I put my good working 4GC back on yesterday to compare. It idles so good and doesn't miss a beat.. except for that off idle bog! Drives me nuts BUT its running better than the WCFB I've got, which i cannot get a smooth idle from no matter what I do. So, I'm going to live with the 4GC... for now 

 

Accelerator pump is working, I just don't understand why it bogs down. Is the pump shot too rich or not enough? Or is it something else? Carb is adjusted sweet, I can put my hand over the snorkel and kill the car. 

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Adjust the idle mixture screws for the smoothest idle and highest vacuum reading.  If no joy adjust leaner to get a 20 rpm drop on each screw (that may give a rougher idle than your tolerance); if it helps then back out richer until acceptable idle and driveability.

That carb does not like modern fuel --- ethanol for not.  The transition from the jets below the throttle plates (idle mixture) to the jets above the throttle plates is where the stumble occurs.  Upstream factors probably contribute too:  mine would be almost acceptable with a newly cleaned carb, but if it ever dried out from non use some white powder residue would form and stumbling returned.

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No vacuum leaks.

 

After 250+ miles on a 5 hour drive, stumbling seems to be gone and it's running pretty well. For starters, it did not die on me in local town traffic. I would still prefer the WCFB over the 4GC but it needs a really really good bath.

 

We got 17-18 MPH after the valve job. It's the best I've seen other than the Edelbrock on the same drive on my old engine (22 MPG but hard starting and did not like the push button idea at all). I think if the WCFB would have been on, it may have been worse since I tried cleaning it myself with over the counter acid.

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6 hours ago, Beemon said:

First picture back at school

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HOW SWEET IT IS!!!!! 

Looks like there is only one independent thinker in that crowd!  B)

 

Interesting that in this frame,  the color looks like the grey color my former 56 Roadmaster! 

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8 hours ago, Beemon said:

First picture back at school

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With that new paint, you're going to have to search out that elusive "corner space" to keep the chance of door dings and other mishaps low!  Best car of the bunch

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I'm not too worried about door dings in this lot. It's shared with upper classmen and people living in apartments. I had zero issues last year, though I know its not safe to assume! Honestly, I'm more scared about parking at WalMart.

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I went to a student organized car show yesterday. I'm not a huge fan of the club's politics, but I do like to show off..

 

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I didn't snap them so I apologize for the face... haha. I'm hoping to go to a few of their events later this year since its always good for photo taking. I'm actually aspiring to be a professional forum photographer like John (seriously, his pictures are the best!).

 

There was a kid there with a 56 Chev pickup that was surprisingly stock with a straight six, 4 speed and original 2 barrel carb with a glass bowl fuel filter and the bypass filter bolted to the exhaust manifold. Looked great, but he said its barely running and needs a complete tune up. Time to break out the vac gauge, timing light and dwell meter and share the knowledge I've gleamed from these forums!

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@Beemon That 56 looks so good!  You have really done a great job on it.  And I can't wait to see your photos from this year at school. The ones you posted from last year were terrific!  You'll have a tough time following your own lead this year.   But I bet you'll be able to accomplish that and just about anything else you want to!   Also interested in that 56 Chevy pickup photos!  Your two vehicles side by side ought to be quite the study! 

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Go to the Palouse Days car show in Palouse, WA, on Saturday, September 15.  They were a lot of fun when I attended those shows years ago with my 1949 Super.

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35 minutes ago, JohnD1956 said:

@Beemon That 56 looks so good!  You have really done a great job on it.  And I can't wait to see your photos from this year at school. The ones you posted from last year were terrific!  You'll have a tough time following your own lead this year.   But I bet you'll be able to accomplish that and just about anything else you want to!   Also interested in that 56 Chevy pickup photos!  Your two vehicles side by side ought to be quite the study! 

 

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Here's the truck. Not colors I would personally pick, but he said he got it that way. It's still a pretty cool looking stepside and its a 3500 model. If the weather permits, I'm hoping to hold on to the car all the way into November, but you never know what the pass conditions can be like that time of year!

 

7 minutes ago, BuickBob49 said:

Go to the Palouse Days car show in Palouse, WA, on Saturday, September 15.  They were a lot of fun when I attended those shows years ago with my 1949 Super.

 

Thanks for the heads up! I didn't know that show existed, but it'll be a fun drive a tad north nonetheless!

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Originally that 235 would have had a Rochester model B carb.. One barrel... If that's what's still on there you'll laugh at the simplicity.

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