Finally put the Hudson into service!

[auburnseeker]

Well it's been almost a year since I bought it.  Though it didn't need alot of work,  life (selling my old shop and house, having to move both of those as well as trying to finish my existing garage and build a new larger shop ) kind of slowed any progress on it to a crawl.  

It was a running (though not smoothly) and driving (somewhat) truck.  

The bonus was it didn't overheat, did drive under it's own power and pretty much the majority of stuff on it worked.  The suspension/ Steering also seemed to be in pretty good shape. 

I decided to go through it all though regardless.  

As I mentioned in another thread about rehabbing old cars.  The numbers add up quick.  

Upon a close inspection, the tires 20 years old,  appeared to be in great shape.  3 Were but the 4th had bad checking in the edge of the tread line in one spot.  (probably from sitting soft ro flat in one spot for an extended period of time. )  So off with those and a new replacement set of pretty much the cheapest name brand black wall tires were ordered in. 

I pulled the cap off the master cylinder and that looked like red sludge inside, the rubber lines were cracked and pretty much all 4 wheel cylinders were stuck or atleast pitted up.  So 4 new wheel cylinders and a new master as well as new rubber lines went in. 

Pulled all the wheel bearings out and cleaned and repacked them with new seals. 

Now it would stop safely and I knew I wouldn't have trouble with the front wheel bearings.  I also fine tuned the adjustment on the E brake setup so it actually would work properly. 

It ran pretty good but wouldn't idle smoothly and felt like a cylinder missed at idle.  I put new plugs and made up all new wires with quality ends.  That seemed to get rid of the miss at idle but it still had shake to it.  

 I decided from sitting and who knows what type of fuel had been run through it and came with it, the Carbs should be rebuilt.  

I drained the gas tank and put fresh gas in it.  I pulled and rebuilt the carbs with new kits.  Put them back on and the truck once fired up ran so smoothly,  I knew the silicone snot I Found in the one's Jets must have been the culprit.  I got it warmed up and kicked it down,  then had to back the idle screws out over a turn each to get it to idle down enough to adjust them.  It starts and runs very smoothly now. 

I took it out for it's first test drive last week.  It performed pretty well.  

I have a wheel shake at about 45 that goes away just above that.  I can live with that.  It does seem to run very smoothly and start really well even at those dreaded stops where many cars vapor lock after sitting for a few minutes while you run in a store.  I had to tinker with the lights a bit as it had some blown bulbs and even incorrect bulbs that were making all the lighting go screwy like a bad ground.  Who would have though that a single prong bulb should be used in a double prong socket.    Lighting is pretty important when you only have one tail light.  Though the hood emblem lights up nicely 

I had to replace the fan belt as well.  They had a 1/2 inch belt making it squeel like mad. 

I have a vibration from the exhaust hitting the cab and or frame right around the cab,  that once i get fixed will make it much more pleasurable to drive.  The 3.0 gears in the rear make it very highway friendly.  First gear is a bit tall as well though but seems to just be enough even around our hilly town. 

This turn key truck took exactly $775.00 to put into reliable service and that's only because it came with a good battery. 

$292 - tires

$100 - 2 Carb Kits

$13 - 6 Spark Plugs

$10 - Silicone Brake Fluid

$230 - New Master and 4 Wheel Cylinders

$50 - Mount and Balance 4 Wheels/ Tires - I changed all the tires by hand  but couldn't get them seated on the rims. 

$15 - New Fan Belt

$20 - 2 New Front Wheel Seals

$45 - 3 New Brake Hoses.  

 

I had the spark plug wire and ends so no charge on those as well as various cotter pins and clevis pins/ nuts, bolts , light bulbs etc.  It actually had a new distributor cap points condenser and rotor already in it so I didn't replace those.  I still need to change the fluids and just picked up the Oil today.  

I'm not griping at all and I do my own work (part of the reason it took so long to get back on the road with everything else going on)  I just want to let people know what it can cost for a perfectly turn key seeming car to be made really roadworthy.  There are still things to address but nothing that will make it unable to be driven regularly.  We will call them necessary improvements. 

I've now driven it atleast 30 miles total on 3 separate 10 mile + trips and it will be used every nice day to run my errands. 

It does get a few looks. Not sure if they are likes or more what is that type looks.  Here are a few shots I took today before sticking it back in the garage for the night after I did a little more tinkering around on it.  It's going to get 2 more tail lights under the back somehow.  I just have to figure out what looks tasteful.   The radio is also coming out as soon as I get to it as I have a very nice original to put in it's place.  Those tags on the dash are also coming off in  the near future. 

 

 

[Digger914]

Looks Great!!!!!

[TheMoneyPit]

What a beautiful truck, I have always loved the look of these!

 

As for the point of the post, I've usually needed to spend between $500 to $1000 on every "buy and drive" car to make sure it's both safe and reliable as well. I can't imagine how much more it would have been if I didn't know how to do the work myself as well.

 

 The good news is that now you KNOW it's right and can enjoy your Hudson without being worried.

[Guest BillP]

Excellent report on a very cool machine!

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

Beautiful truck!  Well done, sir.

 

  Ben

[Xander Wildeisen]

Looks good, nice to hear it's on the road. Tail lights are a tough one, Need something to cover the old round hole. 46-47 Hudson Super Six tail lights would work, and dress it up a little. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1947-HUDSON-TAIL-LIGHT-LEFT-HAND-NICE-USED-/381521790058?epid=746736065&hash=item58d478846a:g:UfIAAOSwLnlWmnSu&vxp=mtr

[auburnseeker]

I was originally thinking maybe a pair of these mounted under the 2 bottom corners .  Simple and tasteful, though not Hudson.  They are new though so I wouldn't have to rebuild them.   They are 39 chevy and readily available. 

 

I can only imagine what the labor would have been to get it going as well.  Though nothing an older garage couldn't do.  Most are at 75 an hour now.   

 

I have one problem with my speedo.  It's way off.  The 3.0 gears are really mismatched to the speedo gear ratio.  Do they make mechanical inline adapters that I could screw in the tranny then screw the cable into to help correct it?  I mean 5 MPH off would be one thing but at 55-60 MPH  the speedo  is not even up to 25.  It does seem to work and not stick or bounce. 

[Walt G]

Thanks for the update, as many who read this may have old cars for some years they can appreciate what you have just related to us. For the newer collectors in the hobby who read this i hope it is a reality check - just because an old car looks good, and seems to be a solid car doesn't mean it shouldn't have a thorough check out to make sure all is working well.  Even if something looks like it is working well, it should be checked out so you can say to your self as of a certain date/time I know it had been gone through.

I bought a 1930 Packard over a year ago that received a very high end restoration in the late 1970s, took an AACA first place award in 1982 then was in two collections since and rarely used "because it was to pristine" . It had ideal heated storage, so looked like it had been restored within the past year not 35+ years ago. Started right up, had great oil pressure, etc etc. Well I had it sorted out mechanically over a period of some months (as I could afford to pay the invoices!) by someone I trusted. It needed considerable effort to make it a reliable driver - one example , the headlamp bulbs when turned on were very very dim, checking the contact surfaces  where you get the two surfaces to slide to make contact to choose park, hi, low beam saw the brass contacts badly tarnished from sitting and lack of use. Cleaned those up and the bulbs shined brightly.

May you have many hours of pleasurable driving in your Hudson pick up , it is a really handsome truck.

[auburnseeker]

I still have that kind of tinkering to do.  I see various electrical issues that need to be dealt with in the near future,  but nothing that will make me have to park it.  

I did just check the tranny, rear, and change the engine oil.   Probably hasn't been done in many years.  

I also just finished readjusting the brakes and trying to figure out how to correct the exhaust clearance issues.  A new correct aluminized system is  around $300.  It currently has some professionally bent pipes and a cherry bomb muffler installed in between the X frame.  Why anyone would put it there where it doesn't fit and I don't think I can realistically make it fit and clear, I have no idea.  There is a big space right behind the brace where it would have fit nicely.  They even went through a bunch of extra work to route it out the side behind the wheel instead of straight out the back like factory.  You have to wonder why people do stuff.  I'm pondering the new system/ trying to rehab the old now.  I'm strongly thinking of just replacing it.   

Back out to test the brake adjustment and see if it stops more smoothly than before. 

[SC38dls]

I said it before but it is worth saying again-- That is one BEAUTIFUL BIG BOY. Have fun with it. Love those trucks. 

Dave S 

[mcdarrunt]

Back in the 50's we pulled our race car, a 1932 Essex (by Hudson), with a 47 Hudson pickup with a 308 Twin H Power engine. Really good truck and we didn't hold up traffic. Your truck is nicer now than our 10 year old one was in 57.

[auburnseeker]

Well I wouldn't look real close.  I just take good photos

Did test the brakes on a short run around town.  Came back and adjusted them again.  I think every drum is slightly out of round so it's hard to get it just right even though I originally adjusted every one up to just have slight contact, at some point, so it scuffs lightly with the wheel spun.  Of course that's in one spot on each.  It's pretty good now.  I have yet to give it one final test from my last adjustment but I think I have it really good now.  

I have a friend coming over tomorrow to see what he thinks about trying to fix the exhaust.  I think he's going to come to the same conclusion that even with a bunch of cobbing it's still not going to have the proper clearance and will still hit occasionally. 

We'll keep pecking away. Still happy with the way it runs and starts though.  

[Xander Wildeisen]

I think someone is reproducing the split exhaust manifold. It came on the 7X engines, so duel exhaust could be used. It will fit the 262/308 engines. It would not be hard to just split a single system just below the manifold with exhaust pipe. I put the mufflers right behind the truck cab, in front of the rear axle. Getting the mufflers out from under the truck cab does make a difference in heat/noise in the cab. I do not have a picture of the complete system installed, but you can see how I ran the exhaust system. Mufflers went right on the pipes that you see in the pictures. I have driven over a 1000 miles on my Hudson truck so far this year. They are great trucks.    

[auburnseeker]

That's where they should be I believe according to the factory ones I could find.   Why they ever decided to put a cherry bomb in the X I have no Idea.  They even opened up one of the elongated holes in the X in an attempt to make it fit though it sits right against the frame even with 2 hangers that aren't positioned properly so they don't locate it properly even if it did fit correctly.  Surprisingly everything from the Muffler back is really well done and takes several turns.  It's aluminized so it isn't rusty but has one strange dip that I did notice a small rust hole coming through.  I'll probably just replace it.   

Do you know if the lead manifold pipe couples up the same to the 262 exhaust manifold as it did to the original Engine (same angle)?  That's my only concern with a stock system.   I know i can figure something out but it would be nice if it bolted right in.   

[Xander Wildeisen]

Here you will see a picture of one on the engine.  http://www.hudsonrestoration1948-54.com/Engine.htm

[auburnseeker]

I have a funky upper radiator hose that is partially collapsed as well so that means a coolant dump and refill and new hoses.  The truck was put together in the early 1980s.  I'm assuming that many parts are from that early 1980's -1993 Era.  I think it was painted in 1993 according to some receipts I found in the glove box. 

 

Checked into exhaust and they seem to be 4-6 weeks away.  Since they have to make them up,  Maybe I can get them to make the correct front pipe to attach to the 55 Wasp intake/ Exhaust manifold. 

My friend took a look today at the exhaust.  He was a GM field engineer specializing in fixing problems and he just shook his head when he saw what they did  for an exhaust. 

I checked out that split exhaust.  Pretty slick way to do it.  I don't know if I want dual on it or not.  I'm trying not to bury myself in it,  incase I lose interest.   I've already bought various better trim pieces as well to swap out, A correct very nice looking but DOA radio and a beautiful steering wheel and self canceling signal switch. 

[Xander Wildeisen]

Did the last owner have a camper on the bed, or did your truck have that factory covered wagon thing on the bed? I have never seen a Hudson with the bed rail supports/brackets welded on the stake pockets. Someone was trying to give the bed rail more support by welding those on. Most of the time the bed rail will get bent down in the middle, the ends have the support of the stake pockets.  

[auburnseeker]

Must have had the covered wagon package or with that engine the pony express version 

The rails are really straight so I'm not sure why the reinforcements unless someone had a really heavy rack on it at some point and thought it needed it.  The truck originally in the 1980's came out of Florida.   Supposably the owner bought it in Florida and drove it home at 70 on the interstate the whole way home.  It actually wouldn't surprise me.  With that tall 3rd gear you just have to flirt with the gas pedal to maintain 55 or so.  So little that it feels like the engine is sleeping under the hood,  that is until you come to a hill.  We have one of those pretty good grade mile long hills just outside of town.  Nice and straight so I ran it today and it actually didn't struggle to make it.  Not a real steep grade but enough it gives any vehicle a little work out to get up it.  I was pleased with that and at 90 Degrees outside air temperature she ran just slightly warmer than normal pulling it near the top.  Cooled down nicely by the bottom on the other side. 

Still looking into exhaust.  Looks like if I buy a stock system I will have some problems as the front pipe really needs to be made to fit the 55 exhaust manifold which exits at a much different angle than the stock 47 Engine. I'll need to see if I an buy the front pipe from a 54 -55 system  and the rest from a 47 System and hopefully get them to just make it straight and give me a little extra length to cut it to fit properly. 

[bobg1951chevy]

A.S., A very good looking truck, with a great write up, as well.  Enjoy the ride !

[auburnseeker]

It's not bad now but will be better once I get the exhaust fixed and a few other cobs cleaned up. 

[SC38dls]

Are you looking to use Waldron's exhaust or somewhere else?  I need a system for the 38 Studebaker and they seem to be the  most likely one to get it from. Dave S 

[auburnseeker]

There are a couple listed on Feebay.  Looks like they are made to order though as they are 4 weeks out at the earliest.  I may have to check into Waldron's to see if they can accommodate the special order. 

[Joe in Canada]

Well done!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[SC38dls]

You may have sucess with Waldrons - I've talked with them and they seem tobe reasonable people to deal with. They were very helpful answering my questions and making sure I would order the correct number of clamps/hangers etc. They also custom build most of the systems so are at least 4-6 weeks for delivery.  I would ask about having the different header pipe and almost bet they will accomadate your needs.Please let us know what you find out. Dave S 

[auburnseeker]

Just heard back from Waldron's.  THey don't build any Hudson Pickup exhaust systems.  Though they do list a full system for a Commercial Chassis?  Wouldn't that be the same?  I contacted the seller on ebay that lists them,  We'll see what they come up with.   It's such a simple system.  It looks almost straight with the exception of the arch over the rear axle.   If no luck through them,  I might just see what I can come up with.  I wish I had a tubing bender to do exhaust,  I would do my own.  It's not brain surgery.  I guess there is always Meineke or Midas?  I believe there is also an old time shop about 30 miles away that the owner (who did an alignment on my 57 Tbird when no one else would) advertises Mufflers with a big Neon sign from probably the 1960's out front. 

[auburnseeker]

Must be customer service is a thing of the past.  I contacted the seller on ebay and told them I basically needed the front pipe from the 55 Wasp they sell and the rest of the system from a 47 Big  Boy which they sell.  They said they couldn't help me.  

Looks like it's time to just do it myself somehow. 

HAs anyone used any of the more economical tubing benders?  I saw a few.  This looks like the better option of cheaper ones.  Plus it's made in the USA. 

 

http://www.trick-tools.com/Pro-Tools_MB-105HD_Heavy_Duty_Manual_Tubing_Bender_Deluxe_Kit_Deluxe105HD_5804?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI08ruyaO-1QIVDjNpCh0OlAr8EAQYASABEgLHZ_D_BwE

[auburnseeker]

Of course there are these as well which would probably work for what I need. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Ton-Heavy-Duty-Hydraulic-Pipe-Bender-Tubing-Exhaust-Tube-Bending-w-Case-/202005877617?hash=item2f087d1371:g:IggAAOSwRUhY-aYY

[Xander Wildeisen]

I have an exhaust bender, I have not used the ones pictured above. It is kind of funny that if you have a welder, you can buy  mandrel bent pieces in 2-2 1/2 in pipe. From Speedway.  http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Combo-Exhaust-Pipe-Mandrel-Bend-Header-Tubing-Mild-Steel-2-Inch,11308.html     If you order four of these at $15.00 dollars each, and then buy two ten/eight foot sticks of pipe, and clamps/muffler from a muffler shop in your town. You can build yourself a mandrel bent system for under $150.00 dollars.(unless you get carried away with muffler type) I can not remember what I payed for my bender 6K-8K? I needed it for my business, if I was just doing a car for a hobby. I would order the mandrel pieces and build it myself, best cost saving way to go. If you have a welder. You can cut the old pipe off the flange/collector and weld the new cut piece on it. Four of the bent pieces will give you enough bends to do a whole system. If it is a job that you are comfortable diving into, you can pull off a very nice mandrel system on a budget. If running a single exhaust pipe, a person would only need to order two of the mandrel bent pieces, and one ten foot stick of exhaust pipe. You can then spray the system with a can of VHT temp paint. And it will look shiny and new when done.

[auburnseeker]

I'm not much at welding.  I would probably be if I hadn't let my brother use my Snap on Mig welder a few years ago, which he still has.   I was thinking for the cost of 2 pipes and a muffler. I would build my own with the bender and an exhaust expander.  I watched them using the cheap one on line and it actually did the job pretty well especially since it's only a few bends.  The fancier one looked appealing until I found I would need to spend another 300 or so for the dies.  That one comes in at almost 900  with the dies and shipping.   If I was going to do a few cars or a very complicated system I would go with that.   Right now it looks like the cheaper one might win. I do have a super good welding shop up the street so I might pull the manifold pipe off and get them to weld that flange to the new pipe. 

[JACK M]

I have never heard of these exhaust problems before.

Is a custom exhaust shop something that is not common.

There is a shop near me that will fit a system to any car for a couple hundred bucks, a bit more for duals.

I have known the guy and his dad for several decades and they do nice work. Probably 20 systems or so for me.

I would be afraid of bought to fit stuff.

[Bloo]

2 hours ago, JACK M said:

Is a custom exhaust shop something that is not common.

 

Not really. What is uncommon is one that does what you ask them to.

Edited August 5, 2017 by Bloo
.. (see edit history)

[auburnseeker]

I've actually had luck with the pre bent to fit systems.  They are done on a computerized machine from factory specifications.  The 50 Caddy one i put in fit like a glove.  THe 36 Chrysler one in stainless I put in was one inch too long.  Normally not a problem,  except that one inch was ahead of the axle.   It took alot of trying and scratching my head on my back on the floor of the garage before I realized what the problem was.   It looked like it fit,  it just didn't. 

[Digger914]

Pre bent is always the fastest way, but custom pre bent doesn't always fit. I've used the EBay / Harbor Freight pipe bender and having bent pipe at a custom exhaust shop, maybe even using the same model pipe bender that Xander has and it's not as easy as it looks. Even with a hydraulic bender and lots of practice eye balling angles, you can still come up a degree or two off in a place that can't be re bent and need to heat to tweak.

 

If you can't get a pre bent system, I recommend you save the money that you would spend on either of these tools and have the work done.  Or go with Xanders plan, get the few bent pieces that you will need and make the pipe yourself and to make the job easier, spend ten bucks on the Harbor Freight pipe expander. Not the greatest tool, but you only need to use it a half dozen times to make these pieces fit and if you can't weld or braze, you can always clamp.

[auburnseeker]

I it had alot of complicated bends I wouldn't mess with it.  It's a very straight system with basically 2 bend areas.  Around the axle and from the 45 degree angle that the manifold pipe exits at to straight under the truck.   I've got alot of patience and  a knack for being able to do new things with satisfactory results.   (I'm sure much like alot of the members on here)   You have to be that way with old cars.    I think I'm going to give it a try.  Worse case scenario I only get the front pipe done and get a muffler hooked up,   then get it to a shop somewhere to finish the job.  I do have a friend with a shop,  that could probably get me out of a bind if I get stuck,  but I don't want to have to have him do the whole thing.   He does alot of Hot rod building and sorting.  His background is mechanical contracting welding and fabrication but he doesn't have the equipment to do exhaust work other than installing pre bent stuff. 

[Laughing Coyote]

I bought a complete system  with OEM mufflers from Waldon and it fit perfectly. I was looking at the ones on the Bay, but not knowing the quality I decided to go with Waldon. Just my 2 pennies. 

[auburnseeker]

They won't make one for it I already asked. 

[Laughing Coyote]

Oh. I guess it does make it a problem. I must have jumped the gun on the reply to the post.

 

[Xander Wildeisen]

Thank you, thank you! I will be here till Thursday.   http://www.ebay.com/itm/1942-47-HUDSON-BIG-BOY-BUSINESS-CAR-EXHAUST-SYSTEM-ALUMINIZED-MDL-28-158-178-/382184445227?fits=Make%3AHudson&hash=item58fbf7d52b:g:sGcAAMXQH6BRETPv&vxp=mtr

[auburnseeker]

I already contacted them as well.  Told them I want to buy this system but can I get the front pipe for a 55 wasp as it has the proper end and angle.  I would be glad to pay any difference and know it will require some work to make the two adapt.  

Their reply.  Sorry we can't help you. 

The problem is the front pipe is quite a bit different between the two so without alot of messing around the front pipe probably won't work.  I wil also need to cut the end of their pipe off and add the flange from my current system.  Even if i can make it work,  i will still need the bender to change the angle and start the bend back further as the wasp has a 45 degree (approximately) angle to the outlet flange and the stock Hudson engine has a completely horizontal flange.   I guess if I can't do it I can always order theirs and try to fix it.  I'm thinking I'll just make my own and let everyone know how it turns out.  It's not brain surgery.  I do have the existing system to go off for the arch around the axle.  That part seems to fit well.   

Edited August 6, 2017 by auburnseeker (see edit history)

[Xander Wildeisen]

Guess I will not be there on Thursday. This is sounding like a problem that is an easy fix. Any exhaust shop can build a system. Parts can be bought to do it yourself.