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About mcdarrunt

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  1. First, use a jumper from the battery positive post (or cable) to the solenoid to see if the starter activates. If it does there is a mess up in the wiring. On my 37 I added a push button when the vacuum switch on the carb went bad but I feed the push button straight from the positive batter cable post on the starter. I find this very handy to be able to use the starter with the switch off for such things as valve setting and timing.
  2. Drove my 37 Special for 40 years with drum brakes which nearly got me in serious trouble three years ago in Kansas City during a monsoon. All the drums got wet but the two on the right side were under water which gave zero stopping power. Put on the Scarebird disc kit using the Riviera rotors. They work just as good under water as above and would not go back to drums---PERIOD.
  3. The fill plug on the side of the transmission. Just fill with lube till it runs out of the fill plug hole.
  4. I did a search for 1937 Dodge SERIAL number and it took 0.56 seconds to show it's on the passenger side door post up through 1942. VIN didn't exist before 1954.
  5. Remove all linkage between pedal and throw out arm. Remove flywheel/clutch dust cover. Work throw out arm by hand to see if the throw out bearing is contacting the pressure plate fingers (use flash light). If the throw out arm reaches the end of it's travel before TO bearing contacts PP then something internally is wrong---like the TO arm pivot. If TO bearing contacts PP then measure the distance the adjustable link must cover. If distance is greater than the length of the link then a longer link is needed.
  6. I have made a vacuum start switch for use with a 1952 263 engine with a Stromberg carb. The prototype is big and ugly and does not mount on the carb but uses a vacuum line to a remote mounting. Right now the body is pvc tubing and the piston is teflon rod. Getting the return spring to match up with the Orings on the piston was the tough part. It DOES work but not close to being a finished product. The finished product will need to be much smaller, have a brass, aluminum, or stainless body, have an insulating material for the contacts in the piston and the bottom of the tube. I searched for a normally closed vacuum switch that worked in a cars vacuum range and had no luck but if there is one out there it would be the way to go.
  7. FINALLY going to get a dry week which will let us catch up on various media blasting. Compressor is a large 600cfm unit with a John Deere diesel engine which was overdue for both fuel and oil filters plus the oil itself. Trailer was behind building on dirt/grass which is saturated so wanted to move to paved surface. Hooked my toy truck (98 Ranger) and all it did was worsen the situation by digging big ruts. Backed the old 37 Buick special with a 263 straight eight and 350 automatic up to the Ranger which was still hooked to the compressor and pulled both out without slipping a tread.
  8. Why do people click on the MODIFIED; M-O-D-I-F-I-E-D section and then moan about modifications. Just ignore them and go with what is probably the best engine ever, the GM LS and LT (late model). If anyone knows of another engine that has 400+ horsepower, gets 25mpg, and lasts 300k miles let us know. Probably more swap information and support available than any engine ever. Go for it.
  9. My 1941 Ross forklift was built to go to war but not to give any aid or comfort to the enemy.
  10. Pictured truck is a 1931 if the stainless cowl band and the ONE PIECE running board splash apron are correct.
  11. My experience with Craftsman/Snap On goes like this; the Snap On regional manager was riding the route with the regular tool man when not one of the guys in the shop had money for their weekly payment. When I pulled out my billfold and handed the cash over the regional guy said "the man with all the money". I replied "it's because I use Craftsman Tools".
  12. Well at least there were a few story lines related to facts and not a Titanic like farce. Hollywood writers could screw up an excrement sandwich.
  13. I have a 30 DeSoto sedan that still has a few parts left on it but it is from Mexico and has a complete jumble of parts so don't know if rear fenders are factory or something else. The rear fenders are definitely NOT pristine but could save you some work. The picture file is gone from my computer but if a computer whiz can bring them up they are on this site under "1931 Plymouth" at "Our Restoration Projects" posted by Baldeagle on May 1st 2016; page 4. Since we street rodded the 30 Plymouth we made wide rear fenders, wide running boards, tail light stands, etc from scratch which left the fenders on the car intact but are they DeSoto?
  14. I would do two tests. First pull the spark plugs to see how it cranks over with zero compression. Next get it fired up and purposely lug it in high gear; if no pinging then compression and advance are okay.
  15. I use liquid polyurethane rubber to make some parts for real orphan cars we get in the shop. It is the same rubber used in motor mounts so it is tough. If your blade is complete or can be temporarily patched you can spray it with mold release (Pam cooking oil) and use it as a pattern to make a plaster of paris mold. For the center hole you can spray mold release on a wooden dowl or wrap a layer of Saran wrap around it or you can put the new blade on dry ice and then turn or mill it. The latter would be tricky on something with very thin edges where a slight bump could break them when frozen. A search on "liquid polyurethane rubber" will give sources and mold techniques.