mcdarrunt

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About mcdarrunt

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  1. You have some really good observations. Yes, I did have to grind caliper, right side only, for 15" wheel clearance. I have a drive on lift so it's easy to fill the mc with a douche ball, I just fill till it runs over. Next time it's up I'm going to drill a hole above the mc with a long aircraft drill to mark the spot and then use a large step drill or hole saw for an access hole. A rubber chassis plug should plug the hole and if I get it above the two chambers divider the hole shouldn't have to be big.
  2. They do not stop better than cool drums but once drums heat you lose pedal. A plus with discs are they are self cleaning so dirt or water isn't a problem. Since I don't even check the weather before making a long journey they made sense. The old 37 made it in rain/snow/ice when it was young so I expect the same now---no trailer queen for me. When it gets faded, has nicks and dings, blow by, etc, then one of the benefits of owning a restoration shop is to just run her through again and and make her a young pup again. I think a rule of thumb for discs is a booster is needed if over 3000 lbs but I have run heavier with no King Kong pedal effort needed.
  3. Ben, I was going to just give you a call since you're so sharp on this stuff and an oral description would be all you needed but then thought maybe others might glean something from a few (very poor) photos; besides I need the practice of posting photos with descriptions. The subject is booster/master cylinder relocation on a 37 and probably older but not 38 and newer as they went to a coil spring rear suspension. The first two shots show how far back the booster/mc has to be moved back if using an automatic behind the straight eight and probably all other transmissions since it's a problem of booster clearance. Note the assembly is further back than the trans mount cross member. The next shows the pedal shaft to booster push rod is MUCH stronger---3/4" chrome moly to compensate for the longer length. Last is the booster mount plate welded to X member and with a strut rod (all thread) on the outer edge to remove any flex from the mount. The very crude hole for speedo cable access on the overdrive automatic through the X member was cut by yours truly.
  4. I had no complaints on my power boosted drum brakes on my 37 Buick Special UNTIL I got caught in a monsoon in Kansas City during rush hour. The water was deep enough on the curb side to submerge the right side brakes and they disappeared---completely. Checked out the Scarebird kit for a 37-40 Buick and was glad I did. Everything actually fit and excellent instructions. They furnish the brackets, adapters, and special parts and then give a list of parts you can pick up for yourself. You can go cheap with junkyard parts or still reasonable with Rock Auto new parts. I went new and ended up with about $400 for kit and parts. Time to install was just under 2 hours.
  5. With no pics or even a reveal of what you have it's a shot in the dark but Ford and others used hot water (coolant) to heat the carb. A heat exchange plate would not be difficult to make.
  6. Saw the original fitting off at a point a six point socket will go on the hex part of the fitting. I can't tell if there is room for a 3/8 impact wrench but there does appear to be room for a 3/8 butterfly wrench. 90% of the time the fitting will come out instantly and the other 10% the fitting still comes out but brings pot metal with it. It WILL work.
  7. Two of the most fun cars I have owned is a 1966 Corvair with the Crown Engineering sbc V8 kit and an 88 Fiero with a 377ci sbc. Neither overheated and neither broke in half. They DID have extensive modiifications but ended up being machines with a near perfect 50/50 front to rear weight bias and were real corner carvers. Should have kept BOTH of them.
  8. Ben, you won me over. Going back to the super dependable Turbo 350 and a set of 3.36 gears since this gear has worked well for you. Might make one more top speed run and see if letting the engine have a few more rev's will break the 93mph mark. Don't know why cause it only gets used at 67mph highway speed but when you're 82 you have to get a thrill from any opportunity that comes up.
  9. My tiny wife thought she would like driving my 37 but she just can't handle the steering and brakes. I converted it to an automatic for her but now I am either going to a NV3500 5sp or maybe to an LS with a 4L60E automatic. I have everything on hand for either conversion but also have an 82 year old body with iffy vision. If I go the LS route the entire radiator cap to rear bumper auto set up will be for sale. It has run border to border and coast to coast with the 263 straight eight, Bendsten's adapter, turbo 350, and 1970 ElCamino (Chevelle) 2.73 rear end but now has a 2004R overdrive trans and 4.11 rear gear. Both give about a 2.80 final drive. The NV3500 would be the easiest and I would keep everything but the transmission but I would like the LS route if I can stay out of doctors offices and hospitals long enough to do the job. Keep in mind ALL IS VERY IFFY but if it does happen the entire 37 auto conversion will be priced at what it takes for the LS conversion less the price of the LS engine and electronic transmission which I already have. Of course the 37 with present set up can be test driven if it does happen.
  10. My daily driven 98 Ranger 4 cyl/5sp has 405k miles (650k kilometers). All drive train is original and I would start on any length trip with it tomorrow. The parts store in Princeton, Texas has a 98 Ranger delivery truck with 880k miles (1,400,000 kilometers) with original engine but a couple of transmissions and a number of clutches----kid drivers.
  11. The link is in the last line of the initial post but another comprehensive post is google "project geronimo" and then click on "rod-authority".
  12. FiTech is now offering a throttle body fi unit for inline engines. It is a very good piece and under a grand. What is so attractive about the FiTech is all the electronic stuff is self contained within the body. There is a good read on a 261 Chevy install at chevyhardcore.com Geronimo Project.
  13. I used a 2004R under my 37 Special for the stated size reason. Would have had to do serious trimming of the X member for a 700R4. Used a Bendsten's adapter behind a 263 straight eight. Without the torque tube I had to make up trailing arms to position the open drive rear end because the 37 leaf springs have swinging shackles at BOTH ends.
  14. The last car we used R12 on was a 1930 Plymouth where with no grill so a condenser would look super ugly. Used an under car small condenser with an attached fan. No way 134A would work with that small of condenser but R12 cools a 4dr sedan just fine. Off topic but I have (2) R12 recovery machines with one jug between the two. $200 takes them both but they are heavy so shipping would be pricey.