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mcdarrunt

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Everything posted by mcdarrunt

  1. Both FiTech and Holley offer two barrel EFI set ups now. I know the FiTech is completely self tuning and has a three wire hook up. Of course fuel pump and 02 sensor are needed. Have had good luck with the FiTech 4bbl units and they are around 8-900 $ compared to the 12-1300$ for the Holley or Edelbrock.
  2. Owner wants a/c installed on a 1941 62 Series with the 346 flat head engine. Do these engines have any history of heating problems? Thank you.
  3. A shot of the very simple adapter to connect the 263 bell housing to the 37 mount cushion. Extra bracket is for exhaust pipe hanger.
  4. I have a 1952 263 engine inn my 37 Special. For front mounts I just welded ears onto the front engine plate and then used the flathead Ford mount cushions. With the mounts spread further apart there is little torque movement when engaging the clutch. On the rear I drilled and tapped the bell housing so a short piece of angle could be used to mate to the factory rear engine mounts. Zero trouble in 25 years. Picture shows ears and mount cushions (seen under the alternator).
  5. Since mine is a 263 straight eight in a 37 40 series originality had already left the building so I did a very simple modification to use Ford flathead motor mount cushions which can be found anywhere and are cheap. A 2.5" square of 1/4 plate steel was welded to the timing cover plate and a 5/8" hole drilled in the top frame flange. Been in service about 40 years and still in prime shape. Can be seen directly under alternator.
  6. If I have the option to buy a factory or a clone built by SKILLED professionals I'll take the "fake" every time. It will be built by ones that actually care for the car not by union protected, clock watching, daydreaming, grudge against the company, more interested in the cute girls hiney at the next station than in building a good car. With a pro built vehicle there will be exact fitment and gaps where the factory just uses stacks of shims. Until the Japanese FORCED quality onto American built cars they were crap from Crosley to Cadillac. With computers, lasers, coatings, wire feeds, specialty tools, unheard of tire quality, rubber and sealants, etc,etc a quality built clone needs social distancing to avoid contamination if parked beside an "original" junker. For some the great God of Originality exists only in Detroit and the mouth breathing cave men were the ONLY ones that could build crap, oops cars, that are acceptable. I prefer ones built by those who loved the car and had no time limits rather than by chimpanzees on a "you've only got minutes" moving line. How many factory people have laid awake thinking of something that had been done wrong and then corrected it the next day? I guess it comes down to whether you prefer history or quality.
  7. I inherited four (4) MGB's from my late sister who lived in Florida on the coast so rust was not a stranger to all but one was really used up. The guys in the shop did some quick tape measure work and said "Let's V8 it." In went a small block 400 and Turbo 350. I would have bet the puny rear end wouldn't make it to the mailbox but what sidelined it was we ran out of the size tires that fit. Air without the stench of burned rubber smelled strange for about two weeks. Never did kill the rear end. A guy that was the chaplain at a federal prison nearby stopped to inquire about parts he needed so we pulled the engine/trans and gave it to him; even loaned him the car trailer to haul it off. Stretching trans tunnel for turbo 350 clearance: Sophisticated motor mounts: High dollar trans mount:
  8. My 1937 Buick Special with a 1952 263 straight eight made the 2020 Bug Tussle Trek and the newly installed pcv system gets an "A" grade. Freshly washed engine had no oil vapor residue at all but did have a tiny liquid oil trail at the distributor gasket. Big improvement over the road draft tube. The weather was 103 degrees actual temp and 113 heat index with engine temp of 205* so the test was valid. Zero oil consumption over 250 miles so valve is not sucking any oil.
  9. A response to NIT PICKING. IMHO it is the MESSAGE that is important, not the slightly flawed presentation. Final comment.
  10. Wel i kant spel al the fansy werds but i kan bild a Ridler Award wining 40 ford coop. i'l let yu speek fansi if yu wil let me bild fancy. i prefer my skil over yors.
  11. Dan Seals song, My Old Yellow Car. "The floorboards were patched with paper and tar but I really was something in my old yellow car".
  12. My Dad drove a "maintainer" for the county during the depression after we lost the farm. He made $21 a month to support a family of eight but at least he HAD a job. Carried a Stephens Crackshot single shot 22 with no sights in the cab so with the rabbits, pheasants, squirrels and other small game we didn't lack for meat. The only one I can recall was a Galion.
  13. Got a somewhat rudimentary set up that works well on short trips. A SBC valve cover grommet fit the road draft tube socket in the vapor condenser like a glove but since the valve is hanging upside down I fabbed a clamp to hold the pcv valve in place. Will go on the Bug Tussle Trek in a couple weeks and see if engine bay stays clean. Nasty now but getting a bath.
  14. I will first give Ben's suggestion a try which was the first way I considered but rejected because there seems to be some liquid oil droplets in the draft tube which would result in exhaust smoke and possibly increased oil consumption. The line from the draft tube to the carb base will also be longer than most suction lines. I could also put baffles in line or maybe a vapor condenser can like sbc had under the intake. Will update with results.
  15. Anyone have any photos of a SUCCESSFUL pcv setup on a straight eight? Object of a pcv system is to keep engine under a negative pressure so am wondering if it would work to put the pvc valve in the rocker cover and a filter on the road draft tube to prevent dirt ingestion. This seems to be the easiest approach and since not much free oil is around the rockers a baffle may not be needed. Thank you
  16. Location is Trenton, Texas which is about 50 miles NE of Dallas. If you are in McKinney you're 23 miles away. On display at: 121 Rod and Restoration 16700 S. Hwy 121 Trenton, TX 75490 Owner lives in McKinney
  17. Very nice cruiser. Zero rust, all new chrome, all trim straightened and polished, new paint, new high quality interior, new brakes/shocks/suspension/exhaust. P/S, p/b, a/c, less than 500 miles on rebuilt original 312 engine, original rebuilt automatic trans, Cragar SS and Cooper tires, New radiator with shroud, new Edelbrock 4bbl carb. Everything is chromed, polished, or fresh painted. If one doesn't want to keep it a profit could probably be made. Owner on hard times due to covid 19 work shut down. Have lift so underside can be inspected and test drive is welcome. Bring your bondo checker and watch the needle stay still. $18k. PM for details.
  18. Know what you mean. My friend has one of those HUGE International XT pickups; 9 feet tall and 14 thousand pounds. When he pulls into a Walmart it seems like all the "jacked up" Big 3 pickup drivers are stunned to realize someone else can pee a foot higher up the wall.
  19. Go ahead and start throwing rocks but the IS NO BETTER ENGINE than the LS and (current) LT engines. 300k miles easily, 450hp, AND 20 plus mpg. Their butt ugly looks can be cleaned up and still be a cheaper engine than a 400+ hp small or big block. No rough idle and wife can run kids to soccer and leave idle with the a/c going till game is over. Pic of a 6.2 in a 54 3100 that has the coil covers and a metal Holley efi instead of the factory plastic, Not a swan but not an ugly duckling. They are so belly button now that I put a 4 cam Mercury Marauder engine in my 34 Chevy coupe but that means I don't have the BEST engine.
  20. First, use a jumper from the battery positive post (or cable) to the solenoid to see if the starter activates. If it does there is a mess up in the wiring. On my 37 I added a push button when the vacuum switch on the carb went bad but I feed the push button straight from the positive batter cable post on the starter. I find this very handy to be able to use the starter with the switch off for such things as valve setting and timing.
  21. Drove my 37 Special for 40 years with drum brakes which nearly got me in serious trouble three years ago in Kansas City during a monsoon. All the drums got wet but the two on the right side were under water which gave zero stopping power. Put on the Scarebird disc kit using the Riviera rotors. They work just as good under water as above and would not go back to drums---PERIOD.
  22. The fill plug on the side of the transmission. Just fill with lube till it runs out of the fill plug hole.
  23. I did a search for 1937 Dodge SERIAL number and it took 0.56 seconds to show it's on the passenger side door post up through 1942. VIN didn't exist before 1954.
  24. Remove all linkage between pedal and throw out arm. Remove flywheel/clutch dust cover. Work throw out arm by hand to see if the throw out bearing is contacting the pressure plate fingers (use flash light). If the throw out arm reaches the end of it's travel before TO bearing contacts PP then something internally is wrong---like the TO arm pivot. If TO bearing contacts PP then measure the distance the adjustable link must cover. If distance is greater than the length of the link then a longer link is needed.
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