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Everything posted by mcdarrunt

  1. Got a somewhat rudimentary set up that works well on short trips. A SBC valve cover grommet fit the road draft tube socket in the vapor condenser like a glove but since the valve is hanging upside down I fabbed a clamp to hold the pcv valve in place. Will go on the Bug Tussle Trek in a couple weeks and see if engine bay stays clean. Nasty now but getting a bath.
  2. I will first give Ben's suggestion a try which was the first way I considered but rejected because there seems to be some liquid oil droplets in the draft tube which would result in exhaust smoke and possibly increased oil consumption. The line from the draft tube to the carb base will also be longer than most suction lines. I could also put baffles in line or maybe a vapor condenser can like sbc had under the intake. Will update with results.
  3. Anyone have any photos of a SUCCESSFUL pcv setup on a straight eight? Object of a pcv system is to keep engine under a negative pressure so am wondering if it would work to put the pvc valve in the rocker cover and a filter on the road draft tube to prevent dirt ingestion. This seems to be the easiest approach and since not much free oil is around the rockers a baffle may not be needed. Thank you
  4. Location is Trenton, Texas which is about 50 miles NE of Dallas. If you are in McKinney you're 23 miles away. On display at: 121 Rod and Restoration 16700 S. Hwy 121 Trenton, TX 75490 Owner lives in McKinney
  5. Very nice cruiser. Zero rust, all new chrome, all trim straightened and polished, new paint, new high quality interior, new brakes/shocks/suspension/exhaust. P/S, p/b, a/c, less than 500 miles on rebuilt original 312 engine, original rebuilt automatic trans, Cragar SS and Cooper tires, New radiator with shroud, new Edelbrock 4bbl carb. Everything is chromed, polished, or fresh painted. If one doesn't want to keep it a profit could probably be made. Owner on hard times due to covid 19 work shut down. Have lift so underside can be inspected and test drive is welcome. Bring your bondo checker and watch the needle stay still. $18k. PM for details.
  6. Know what you mean. My friend has one of those HUGE International XT pickups; 9 feet tall and 14 thousand pounds. When he pulls into a Walmart it seems like all the "jacked up" Big 3 pickup drivers are stunned to realize someone else can pee a foot higher up the wall.
  7. Go ahead and start throwing rocks but the IS NO BETTER ENGINE than the LS and (current) LT engines. 300k miles easily, 450hp, AND 20 plus mpg. Their butt ugly looks can be cleaned up and still be a cheaper engine than a 400+ hp small or big block. No rough idle and wife can run kids to soccer and leave idle with the a/c going till game is over. Pic of a 6.2 in a 54 3100 that has the coil covers and a metal Holley efi instead of the factory plastic, Not a swan but not an ugly duckling. They are so belly button now that I put a 4 cam Mercury Marauder engine in my 34 Chevy coupe but that means I don't have the BEST engine.
  8. First, use a jumper from the battery positive post (or cable) to the solenoid to see if the starter activates. If it does there is a mess up in the wiring. On my 37 I added a push button when the vacuum switch on the carb went bad but I feed the push button straight from the positive batter cable post on the starter. I find this very handy to be able to use the starter with the switch off for such things as valve setting and timing.
  9. Drove my 37 Special for 40 years with drum brakes which nearly got me in serious trouble three years ago in Kansas City during a monsoon. All the drums got wet but the two on the right side were under water which gave zero stopping power. Put on the Scarebird disc kit using the Riviera rotors. They work just as good under water as above and would not go back to drums---PERIOD.
  10. The fill plug on the side of the transmission. Just fill with lube till it runs out of the fill plug hole.
  11. I did a search for 1937 Dodge SERIAL number and it took 0.56 seconds to show it's on the passenger side door post up through 1942. VIN didn't exist before 1954.
  12. Remove all linkage between pedal and throw out arm. Remove flywheel/clutch dust cover. Work throw out arm by hand to see if the throw out bearing is contacting the pressure plate fingers (use flash light). If the throw out arm reaches the end of it's travel before TO bearing contacts PP then something internally is wrong---like the TO arm pivot. If TO bearing contacts PP then measure the distance the adjustable link must cover. If distance is greater than the length of the link then a longer link is needed.
  13. I have made a vacuum start switch for use with a 1952 263 engine with a Stromberg carb. The prototype is big and ugly and does not mount on the carb but uses a vacuum line to a remote mounting. Right now the body is pvc tubing and the piston is teflon rod. Getting the return spring to match up with the Orings on the piston was the tough part. It DOES work but not close to being a finished product. The finished product will need to be much smaller, have a brass, aluminum, or stainless body, have an insulating material for the contacts in the piston and the bottom of the tube. I searched for a normally closed vacuum switch that worked in a cars vacuum range and had no luck but if there is one out there it would be the way to go.
  14. FINALLY going to get a dry week which will let us catch up on various media blasting. Compressor is a large 600cfm unit with a John Deere diesel engine which was overdue for both fuel and oil filters plus the oil itself. Trailer was behind building on dirt/grass which is saturated so wanted to move to paved surface. Hooked my toy truck (98 Ranger) and all it did was worsen the situation by digging big ruts. Backed the old 37 Buick special with a 263 straight eight and 350 automatic up to the Ranger which was still hooked to the compressor and pulled both out without slipping a tread.
  15. Why do people click on the MODIFIED; M-O-D-I-F-I-E-D section and then moan about modifications. Just ignore them and go with what is probably the best engine ever, the GM LS and LT (late model). If anyone knows of another engine that has 400+ horsepower, gets 25mpg, and lasts 300k miles let us know. Probably more swap information and support available than any engine ever. Go for it.
  16. My 1941 Ross forklift was built to go to war but not to give any aid or comfort to the enemy.
  17. Pictured truck is a 1931 if the stainless cowl band and the ONE PIECE running board splash apron are correct.
  18. My experience with Craftsman/Snap On goes like this; the Snap On regional manager was riding the route with the regular tool man when not one of the guys in the shop had money for their weekly payment. When I pulled out my billfold and handed the cash over the regional guy said "the man with all the money". I replied "it's because I use Craftsman Tools".
  19. Well at least there were a few story lines related to facts and not a Titanic like farce. Hollywood writers could screw up an excrement sandwich.
  20. I have a 30 DeSoto sedan that still has a few parts left on it but it is from Mexico and has a complete jumble of parts so don't know if rear fenders are factory or something else. The rear fenders are definitely NOT pristine but could save you some work. The picture file is gone from my computer but if a computer whiz can bring them up they are on this site under "1931 Plymouth" at "Our Restoration Projects" posted by Baldeagle on May 1st 2016; page 4. Since we street rodded the 30 Plymouth we made wide rear fenders, wide running boards, tail light stands, etc from scratch which left the fenders on the car intact but are they DeSoto?
  21. I would do two tests. First pull the spark plugs to see how it cranks over with zero compression. Next get it fired up and purposely lug it in high gear; if no pinging then compression and advance are okay.
  22. I use liquid polyurethane rubber to make some parts for real orphan cars we get in the shop. It is the same rubber used in motor mounts so it is tough. If your blade is complete or can be temporarily patched you can spray it with mold release (Pam cooking oil) and use it as a pattern to make a plaster of paris mold. For the center hole you can spray mold release on a wooden dowl or wrap a layer of Saran wrap around it or you can put the new blade on dry ice and then turn or mill it. The latter would be tricky on something with very thin edges where a slight bump could break them when frozen. A search on "liquid polyurethane rubber" will give sources and mold techniques.
  23. The 2004R overdrive automatic behind the 263 straight eight in my 37 has whipped my butt. The engine-transmission combination just didn't work. The straight eights very low rpm torque had the trans constantly "searching" till it finally settled down in top gear. Maybe the 10 or 12 shifts in each take off was harmless but I wasn't going to trust it even though I went to a high dollar constant pressure pump to prevent band/clutch wear. A turbo 350 is now back in the 37 and it works perfect. I first went to the OD trans in conjunction with 4.11 rear gears to help the old girl out in hills or mountains as the 2.73 rear behind the first 350 trans ran out of poop in the hills. Ben has a 3.36 rear gear in his 50 which I have ridden in and it's a really good combo but the rear end I chose has a 7.625 inch ring and pinion which offers few ratios. I went with a 3.08 and tested it in the Kiomeche Mountains in SE Oklahoma. Not an A plus but a good solid B. Not all was lost because I learned to NEVER EVER use a gear/cable type speedometer again in this lifetime. The $60 gps speedo doesn't care what transmission, rear end, or tire size your running it's dead accurate. Have a drawer full of drive-driven gears and a wall full of different length cables which can rot down with the building if they wait on me to use them.
  24. Your 35 should have leaf springs so it simplifies an open drive line conversion. In the case of my 37 40 series the only hitch was the leaf springs had shackles at BOTH ends. This let the rear end shift forward or back either in unison or one side only. A set of 61 Chevy tie rods made light duty trailing arms that have lasted 30 years. Most leaf spring cars of that era had an eye bolt at the front of the spring which made a torque tube not necessary.