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1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project


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Posted (edited)

actually installed the u-joint housing before the new bearing retainer...

new gasket, a little Permatex 2 on the gasket face, as well as Permatex Thread Sealer on the screws to reduce wicking.

 

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Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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now the fun part... u-joint

 

started with the parts and pieces to get bolted in and secured... next up will be the other half 🙂 

 

lined up the castle nut and hole, installed and secured the pin

 

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well transmission was 90% complete, and when i got home today there was a package waiting for me from Ted... and it in was a few tools 🙂 man did that u-joint tool make like easier !!  Thanks Ted, I will get it back to you soon... the other tool was a clutch alignment tool, used to align the clutch in the pressure plate assembly. simple molded piece of plastic but should work like a glove... test fitted it in the clutch disc to validate fitment !!

 

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Ted's Custom built u-joint tool !!

 

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Clutch alignment tool in clutch disc for test fitment

 

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splines fit like a glove, should work perfectly !!

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now to assemble the u-joint.. did a test fitment to learn how the tool fits and work, not sure if this is correct, but fit perfect and work best for me on assembling the u-joint

 

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so i took it apart, put on some grease on the u-joint components for now, and then put ti all together...

used new nuts and lock washer to ensure no issues. went back together easier then it came apart.

 

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now the base of the transmission is all together, checked to ensure everything moved freely, the input shaft is a little stiff compared to the output shaft, but it does have that lip seal on it that provides a little resistance. but everything moves easily and freely and can scroll through the gears no problem.

 

plan to clean it up this weekend, mask it off then put on afresh coat of gloss black...

 

after it dries for a few days will be ready to put bell housing and fork back on it and ready for reinstall

 

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If you can believe it, that clutch alignment tool was purchased by me over thirty years ago to put the clutch in my 72’ Blazer. GM has been using that same size and spline pattern for that many years! Fits a 29’ and a 72’, probably all the way into the early nineties. Talk about one size fits all!

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40 minutes ago, chistech said:

If you can believe it, that clutch alignment tool was purchased by me over thirty years ago to put the clutch in my 72’ Blazer. GM has been using that same size and spline pattern for that many years! Fits a 29’ and a 72’, probably all the way into the early nineties. Talk about one size fits all!

wow, it is in great shape !!  and see that you can pick it up most anywhere still today. guess with all those vehicles out there makes sense.

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got it all cleaned up then masked off ready for a fresh top coat of black 😉
waiting for better weather so i can paint it up, been cool and wet here

 

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well had nice weather yesterday so took the transmission outside and put on a few coats after work. it was 75 F clear and sunny !!

 

let it sit for an hour or so and then moved it inside the garage to sit and cure for a day or so before handling too much.

 

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then installed the bell housing and fork, complete and ready for install !!

 

now to wait for the engine.

 

looks great and everything seems to move freely and function properly

 

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Posted (edited)

now that the transmission is all ready...

 

looking at other components to ensure everything is in working order. looking at the vane style oil pump. how can i validate that it is in top not ch condition. i have removed the cover and looked inside. how can i validate the vanes are in good shape ??

i have also looked at replacing it with the C&P Automotive style, but only if required or highly recommended. would prefer to rebuild and use the original one if at all possible. but want to make sure it supplied plenty of oil to the newly rebuilt engine with out fail.

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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well started looking at the oil pump that came on the car

looks really clean in my opinion, and very little surface wear on any of the internal walls and inside face of the cover.

assume the gasket is super thin ? as it looks to be there but caked to the pump. maybe 1/64 or so ?

 

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Both pumps Jerry have a ton of vane on them and show a small contact area where they meet the side wall of the housing. They are virtually in like new condition. As a vane wears, that contact area becomes eventually the full width of the vane, that’s when it’s replacement time. I would simply check the housing sidewalls for any rust and remove it with fine paper. I’ve also put fine wet dry paper on a true surface and lapped the covers if any wear is present. The vane pumps work great and simply moves the oil quickly like any vane pump does. I believe only the center main is pressurized to any degree and the others simply rely on quick volume delivery to the connecting rod troughs or sumps at the font/rear mains so the vane pumps are fine if not the best for the early motors. With today’s oils, babbit issues are almost a thing of the past when a motor has been rebuilt. Adding to the longevity is better materials, crank/rod/piston balancing, and aluminum pistons. Your original oil pump will be just fine. 
    I did put a gear pump in my 31’ rebuild but that was because two vane pumps I had were shot and I got a gear pump kit for $60! It does give slightly more pressure but a lot needs to be said about having a fresh motor with tighter center main too. 

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Posted (edited)

tore down the two pumps a little further today. 

on the original one, the shaft and the end that is held in by a pin is sloppy ?!? has a few degrees of free rotation, i can hold the end and turn the shaft a little bit before the end turns, and i can push/pull the shaft about a 1/16" or so before it engages and pushes/pulls the end. not sure how much play there should be in either direction.

 

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Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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Posted (edited)

put all the pieces for the original in the parts cleaner for now and will let it soak and clean for the night, then check it all over.

 

then do the same for the spare.

 

may take the best parts and build one pump, and then build a spare from the remnants for emergency or spare parts down the road.

 

can i just drive out that pin and pull the end off the shaft ?? then check for oblong/worn out hole ?? then could i drill it out and put in an over sized pin or what other options could i use ?? remove pin then drill housing and shaft 90 degrees out from existing pins & hole and put in a new pin same size as now ??

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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Posted (edited)

well got the original pump all cleaned up and completely disassembled 

 

the pin holding the end on the shaft is shot, can not believe how worn out it is, but again it is 90 years old !!

 

cleaning and soaking the spare pump now, then will do the same for it

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Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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I have found many of those pins in exactly the same condition. I suppose that was really the cause of failure on the oil pump. I've never seen one with vanes so bad they wouldn't still work.

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  • 2 weeks later...

ok, know it has been a while, but i broke out the 3d printer and have been running it 24 hours a day printing face shield brackets for the local makerspace that is doing them for local hospitals and medical facilities.

i found my log that i did a while back and decided to paint it up....

first a layer of white....

 

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gonna see if i have any gray or silver around to trim up the black so it looks like the emblem on the car... worst case i can mix some black and white to make my own gray :)

see how the works

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The experience I had with my 29 coupe was. When I finally got it going and somewhat dependable, near our house the main way home had us going down a hill and turning right onto an uphill. After the corner going uphill it would hammer for about 300 feet. I would have to take it real easy until it would refill whatever reservoir had emptied out and stop knocking. This was in a residential area so we were only going 20 to 25 mph. The assumption was it was one of the main bearings. I put a 30 to 32 pump in there drilled out the block to 1/4" pipe from the 1/8th inch original and didn't have any more problems until the valves gave out about 5 years later. The 29 pump is one of the few hold over parts from 28 but has 2 more rod sumps to keep full. Maybe the original 29 pump will work fine for the area you drive in. Art

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question on replacing the worn pin in the oil pump...
...original pin measures out to approx .156 dia
...pin hole in housing measures about .155 dia
...pin hole in shaft measures .175 dia

should i
1-just replace the pin with a .156 dia and continue on, pin will press into the housing and slide through the shaft
2-line up and bore the holes to match and go up a size in the pin ??

seems like the pin fits in the housing as a press fit and a clearance fit int eh shaft, hence the wear on the pin from the free movement. shaft pins then hits pin and turn housing/vanes. it is this way on both the pumps i have torn down on the bench.

OD of the shaft is .488 whereas the ID of the housing for the shaft is .500

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54 minutes ago, BearsFan315 said:

should i
1-just replace the pin with a .156 dia and continue on, pin will press into the housing and slide through the shaft
2-line up and bore the holes to match and go up a size in the pin ??

seems like the pin fits in the housing as a press fit and a clearance fit int eh shaft, hence the wear on the pin from the free movement. shaft pins then hits pin and turn housing/vanes. it is this way on both the pumps i have torn down on the bench.
 

 

I'm not a machinist, but your reasoning is sound. I would take it to your machinist. Seems like bore the housing to just under .175 so it's a tight clearance in the pump shaft and a mild press fit into the housing.

 

...or...

 

Retrofit a '30-32 pump and not have to worry about damaging your new engine! Just my 2 cents. Good luck Jerry!

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Friday spent the evening finishing up my 3d Printed 1+929 Chevrolet Logo.

 

used a gray i had laying around to do the raised section to make it look more like the emblem on the car. then after it dried saturday morning went back and touched up the paint all around.

 

have to say that is came out pretty good. i am happy with it. 

 

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Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, John_Mereness said:

For your runningboard mats, floor mat, or grill  ? 

not sure what i am going to do with it, sjut something i did up in CAD then 3d printed in black, decided to paint it up to match the radiator emblem. came out nice, may put it up on my wall or desk, it is only about 5 1/4" tall

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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