BearsFan315

1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project

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started working on my headlamp wiring 

installed the armor on the sire and ran it into the radiator shell, through grommet.

 

now i can solder on the connectors and get it complete .

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well spent 5 minutes this morning generating a 3d model of the insulator

 

modeled it after the original one i had, put a step in the insulator so that the wire with shield (fabric) will stop at the step and only the bare wire will come through.this should make it easier to solder and handle. will print out a test piece tonight for fitment and function then adjust from there. fine tuning :)

 

here are some pictures of the original one and the broken one. very brittle

 

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Original Insulator Front End (inserts)

 

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Original Insert Rear  Side, after cutting to fit

 

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Other Insert that Broke

 

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Another Angle of Broken Insert

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Here are a few shots of the model i generated this morning that i will 3d print this afternoon.

 

on the rear side you can see the step for the wire stop

 

will try to post pictures when test fitting. hoping it works on first try :)

 

thinking of using #2 brass washers for the solder base.

 

Tin #2 brass washer, push wire end thru insulator, then place a tinned #2 brass washer over wire, solder up and build a nice connector. file as needed. figure the washer would help keep heat off insulator from solder iron plus would assist in making a nice round connector button.

 

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front view

 

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rear view

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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well made of 3 concepts for the replacement insulator one that:

1-mimics the original

2-mimics original with chamfer  lead for easy wire entrance

3-same as above bu with radii on entering edge to seat smoothly against the TFS replacement sockets

 

took about 1 hour to print them out, they looked really good. i tried 

1- it fit fine, had to work the wires to get them to come through. it fit nicely in the socket housing. it was a little recess inside the housing.

2- general fitment is the same wire was a lot easier to feed into each hole with the chamfers. also recessed a little inside the housing.

3- same general fitment, a lot easier to get it into the housing with that leading radii wires are easy to feed with the internal chamfers and it also seated better in the housing, sits almost flush

 

ordered some #2 brass washers today, should be here wednesday, no one local carries them that small. plan to tin one side of the washers, drop one washer over each wire tip poking through, solder the tip and washer with a nice solder ball. then file them down nice and even and flat on top. should be good to go at that point.

 

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3 sample pieces, 1, 2, 3 (notice radii on top edge)

 

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wires fed though insulator, tips just poke through

 

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housing slipped on for test fit, notice groove to right for pin in housing for proper alignment

 

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good shot of assembled parts

 

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close up of insulator , can see it is slightly recessed

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for those interested here is a model view of the printed part that works best for the TFS Armor Cables I got.

Here are some shots from the model: 

 

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1-front angle view (small holes)

 

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2-rear angle view (large holes and radii edges)

 

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3-front section View showing the chamfer to feed the wire to the front hole

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Hardest part done,just need to bore the head and mill it to dimension

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Looking Good Ted, GREATLY appreciate your time and efforts with machining the rod ends !!

 

thread are definitely the hard part, 3 inches of straight threads

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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got my brass washers in today, so was time to assemble and solder up the headlamp connections.

 

funny part is i ordered 10 #2S brass washers, went to pick them up and they gave me 100 washers. so i have som spares to test and play with as well as if anyone needs some let me know.

 

the washers were the perfect size for the connectors. installed the printed insulators on the wires, then slipped a washer over the tip of the exposed wire, then applied the heat to the wire, waited a few seconds then applied the solder to the washer and bam had a nice round ball. the solder sent right to the brass and made a near perfect mound.

 

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my 10 #2S Brass Washers

 

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3d Printed Custom Headlamp Insulators wire tip side

 

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3d Printed Custom Headlamp Insulators wire insert side

 

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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20190703_183757.thumb.jpg.295f0507446fcea1e2c96c5a304c7bb4.jpg

washer placed over wire tip

 

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beautiful round solder mounds for contact

 

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another angle of solder before cleaning

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20190703_185644.thumb.jpg.25f74b7bd8ccdb375e10b347a597efa5.jpg

pulled up the armor cable to the insulator

 

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line up the notched and slide on socket cover

 

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insulator fully installed and connector ready

 

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test fit with mating headlamp socket

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8 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

Xclnt work! What did you pint with?

using my Wanhao Duplicator i3 First Edition that i have Customized Printing some MakerGeeks Dark as Night PLA

Wanhao Dup i3.jpg

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spent time today validating lighting. hooked up the battery and then checked signal lights installed. left works, right works, and hazard. and the LEDs are nice and bright !! also includes the third brake light i installed in the window via suction cups :) also has a connector just behind the seat so i can disconnect or tuck behind seat if needed. actually got it from Brake Lighter the factory brake light is the standard incandescent one. 

 

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all brake with lights on in garage

 

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lights out

 

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close up of incandescent tail/stop light

 

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close up of Brake Lighter

 

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tail light on brake light

 

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tail light shining down

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tested the dome light, knew it would work, Ted installed and configured it, so no issues there :)

 

Fun part was the Headlamps and Parking Lamps. since i have NOT rebuilt the headlamps yet, i rigged up a ground for each lamp socket and hooked up the pigtails directly to the new connector i did up. PO told me they were acting up or not wired correctly. when you turn them to park on the switch, the headlights come on ?!? then when you go to On the parking lights come on. i chased all the wires and made sure everything was correct, and under the dash the parking light and headlamp wires were revered. so swapped those around. now they work correctly with the dimmer switch on the floor as well. low beam is a single filament, high beam both filaments. 

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while tinkering around realized that the dash light was NOT working. had a new bulb and everything. pulled out the socket and tested voltage had full 6.4 volts going in, but no light. i metered inside socket to chassis ground. realized that the housing was tarnished over and would not ground.

pulled out the socket, cleaned it up with the dremel and we have light !! reinstalled and away we go.

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with the brakes, realized that the light does NOT come on till the pedal is about 3/4 way to the floor. i know you can adjust the lever on that engages the switch. how does everyone set theirs ?? i pulled the brake switch out and it look good,tested with a meter and it does not make contact will 3/4 way through swing from open to closed.

 

the little piece that rotates and pushed the copper bar down for contact, should that have a flat spot on the bottom ?? third picture down

 

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18 hours ago, BearsFan315 said:

tested the dome light, knew it would work, Ted installed and configured it, so no issues there :)

 

 

Whew! TG 😓 

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8 hours ago, chistech said:

Whew! TG 😓 

come on Ted you KNEW it would work i KNOW you tested it more than once

 

now what the PO did, or tried to do was another story

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1 hour ago, BearsFan315 said:

come on Ted you KNEW it would work i KNOW you tested it more than once

 

now what the PO did, or tried to do was another story

Yes I did. I don’t even install a headliner without fully testing the dome light with a meter and power. I believe I ran a separate ground wire to the chassis or at least a good solid connection on your car also. The original connection on a 29 was a wire nailed through a tab for a pillar cover skin. 

Edited by chistech (see edit history)

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Got a call from the Plater !!

said they are nickel, polished, and ready for pick up !!

hope to get by there in the next day or two so that i can pack them up this weekend and get them out to Bill to get aluminized !! will post picture once i pick them up

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well picked up the reflectors today from plater... nickel polished :)

 

they look really good and refle ctive

 

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shiny side up side by side

 

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shiny side close up

 

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shiny side looking straight in

 

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shiny side side by side

 

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shiny side at an angle

 

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back side, side by side

 

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back side angle

 

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tab

 

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cutout

 

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well well 

 

got up this morning and was going to wash and clean the reflectors and then pack them up to go to Uvira. washed them with a Microfiber towel and warm soapy water. then dried them with a microfiber towel. and all the towel did was snag. using a light you can see several high spots, sharp and pointy in several places on the inside of reflector. they are nice and shiny and reflect well, however you can really see the bad spots in the nickel. so Monday i will be making a return trip to them to talk with them.

 

NOT a happy camper now

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well a good friend of mine, with skill, know how, and equipment was able to machine and thread my rod end blanks for my front brake trunion assembly on my 1929. Thanks Ted !! I received them in the mail saturday afternoon, and they look great, threads are straight, brass nuts go on easily and go all the way to the end. i did a test fitting to ensure they fit int he assemblies. they fit great just like the originals, as i knew they would. only difference is they are about a 1/4" shorter than stock, but this should not be an issue. Brass nut usually stays near middle or rod end. this brass nut is used for tuning and adjusting hte brakes when the pads begin to wear. 

 

I am going to prime and paint the rod end, not the threads. then start to assemble the kits, and then hopefully install them on the car !!  then i can reset and adjust the pedal, and brakes. and at that  point i think i will only be waiting on the reflectors in order to install the headlamps !!

 

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New Rods machined from Rod Blanks

 

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New Rod vs Old Rod

 

Test Fitting of New Rods in Assemblies:

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