BearsFan315

1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project

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well decided to clean up the chewed up threads on the hubs, as well as chase the threads on my new repro hub caps. problem is they are 2-3/8-16 threads, which is non-standard as well as being a big thread. after talking to a few machine shops around and figuring would have to go lathe, i found a tap and a die on ebay the tap said it was used but in great shape, the die was listed as new. they arrived and when i opened them up they both looked  new never used !! got them from 2 different sellers funny thing they both were in California :) got them for a good price considering they usually run about $200-250 each !! that is my price through work.

 

got them in last nigh and cleaned/chased the threads on the hubs

 

oh yeah in order to chase the hubs, i did not have a large enough wrench 3.75" across flats to get on the die, so i got it started by hand. then had to use my strap wrench to spin and thread it on. that worked great. i backed it off and ran one more time to ensure clean threads. now it goes on and off completely by hand !!  man what a difference !!!

 

try to tackle the hub caps this weekend...  

 

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2 3/8-16 Die on the left, Tap on the right... 

 

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a front hub cleaned up

 

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a rear hub cleaned up

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took and chased the threads on the repro hubcaps tonight. that tap cuts that aluminum like BUTTER !!

 

was very easy and simple to do. i secured the tap in my bench vise, then get the cap started on the tap and used my strap wrench and threaded each one on till it bottomed out. then back it off. 

 

now they screw on very easily and smoothly on the hubs i cleaned up last night !!

 

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Tap secured in bench vise

 

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first hubcap started on the tap

 

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using strap wrench to thread the hubcap

 

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nice clean full threads !!

 

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test fit on front hub

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Nothing like the right tool for the job! I look at all the hand tools passed down to me from my dad and the other tools like my lathe/vertical Miller,  that I’ve acquired myself and think sometimes that when I’m gone, they’ll probably be thrown away because not to many will even know how to use them. My own son, who’s fairly mechanical and a industrial electrician foreman, has told me he’s looking to purchase a farm in TN somewhere that also has a multi stall garage. While I know he loves raising cattle and horses, I asked him why a big garage. He proceeded to tell me he figured my wife and I could come visit during the winter months and I could set up a restoration shop. He said he feels he’s missing out on a lot of things he could learn from me and having me there would be good for all of us. Sometimes I still think there’s hope for some of the younger generation!

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Since i am waiting for my headlamp reflectors to get plated i decided to do a once over on the front end and pull the brake trunion assembly and check it completely over. since i have realized the PO did a lot of paint over and NOT rebuilding all the assemblies and pieces.

i removed the drivers side assembly and decided to tear it completely down and strip, prime, paint the parts and rebuild completely.

 

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while tearing them down i learned QUICKLY that these things probably have NOT been apart since 1929 when they were initially put together !!

 

looks like the PO attempted to remove a few screws and stripped the heads out !!  that was NOT fun, had to soak them for a while and the use a screwdriver and hammer to tap them around to spin them out. these were the 2 flat head slotted screws on the flat plate. the passenger side screws were easily removed !!

 

then the woodruff key that was in the shaft for the pivot, that thing refused to come out !! i soaked it twice for a few hours each, nothing, tried to tap it to rock it loose, tried a small screwdriver to hopefully rock it in the keyway, nothing. had to resort to heat and vise grips. took a good amount of heat and several attempts before the key finally gave up and popped out !!  BOTH sides were like this.

 

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shot of the key, notice the corrosion

 

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top view of corrosion and attempt to rock it with hammer, screwdriver, pliers

 

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keyway in shaft

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finally got is all disassembled and laid out on the bench
plan to strip, prime, paint all the parts then reassemble and install on the car.

 

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one assembly tore down

 

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while working on the Front Brakes and removing to rebuild and replace the trunion kit i noticed that it looked like the fender brackets were painted while on the car, as i could see a shadow in the underside of the fender. so last night i decided to remove the fender brackets so they could be blasted and primed, as well as touch up the underside of the fenders.

 

actually had to CUT off several of the bolts, as they were rusted and painted in place !! as well as whatever was lying around for replacement by previous owner.

 

few picts of the hardware after removal

 

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 looks weird, like maybe was taken apart then assembled and painted with rusty old hardware, which would NOT be the only old rusty hardware i found. along with mismatched and whatever hardware could be found.

 

blasted the bracket, primed and painted them tonight, as well as worked the inside of the fenders, removed rust, and blended in black to clean them up. may need another coat tomorrow, but will know then.

 

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well cleaned up the fenders and top coated them, man what a difference.

 

then primed  and painted the brackets. everything looks great now, once i get the new hardware in i can install them and move forward.

 

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inside fender

 

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another view

 

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brackets

 

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other side

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put on two coats of primer and 2 coats of gloss black

bought some of those paints stands in the paint department for holding parts off the surface, look like little pyramids, they seemed to work good on keeping the part off the cardboard

 

cleaned up the shafts, chased all the threads internal and external, straightened the bent threaded rods, etc...

 

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Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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Ahh, painting all the tid bits! The small pieces take a ton of time prepping and painting for sure when you do them right like this. Only those who’ve done it know.

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looking at the components to put back together, there were 2 gaskets inside the assembly 
wondering what the material is/ should be

 

goes on the flat surfaces of the round cylinder that the cam goes through, they sit between the ends of the round part and the housing.

 

they seem to hold the parts apart to keep metal from metal rubbing, but allow freedom to turn a small amount for the brakes to work.

 

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assembly housing, gasket, rotating part , gasket, cover

 

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gasket against rotating part

 

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gasket against the inside of the housing

 

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assembly, other gasket goes against the cover, bt the rotating part and cover

 

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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ended up get some custom gaskets made, a local company cut me some graphite gaskets to my dimensions. these are high temp, high heat gaskets so they should be perfectly fine. plus being graphite reinforced with steel mesh they should hold up just fine. they are made to be compressed and once assembled worked great. 

 

while assembling i also put some high temp grease on the parts that need to move.

 

everything was going fine until i tried to thread the rod end bolt into the new brass  bushings for the trunion. one ended up breaking, they were really hard to thread out, as the bolts were mangled and bent up pretty bad, i tried to straighten them out, but seems the were a little weak, but at 90 years old, hey. i did some looking and hunting and found many rod ends but the ones that were 5/16" to match are all threaded 18 threads per inch and the ones on the car and mating hardware are 24 threads per inch. luckily i found a company that makes blanks in various lengths. so i bought 3 5/16" diameter by 3 inches long. this gives me one to tinker and learn on and 2 for the brake assemblies. the blanks will have to be drilled for the clevis pin, and then threaded the full length of the bolt. yes all three inches. they should be here by this weekend, and then i will tackle those !! but got most everything else assembled on the front brakes. once i get those rod end completed i can complete the assembly and hopefully installed on the car !!

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also installed the repainted front fender supports. what a difference, will touch up the bolts and paint them black as well to blend in.

 

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called and talked to the plater yesterday, he said the reflectors should be done in the next day or two. said they are looking really good. 

they will be all polished nickel, ready for Bill @ Uvira !! hoping to get them out to him within a day or two of receiving them from plater.

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Looking great Jerry and getting closer every day.

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got the other tags/plates installed on the generator and distributor last night.

also installed the new Fisher Body Tag i got, used the rivet bolt kit from TFS worked great !!20190617_180453.thumb.jpg.2222946952fae1701d06a21bdb2f55f3.jpg

 

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those wondering how good of a job AGBackeast did on my Fisher body tag, I'd say he did a superb job. 

 

here is a comparison picture.

 

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Original on Top - Repro on the Bottom

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He did mine on my 31’ Chevy too. Absolutely perfect job.

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working on the assembly, the two rod ends were bent and jacked up. working to try and gently straighten and reassemble the end. one of the rod end bolts snapped. spent some time looking around trying to find replacements. i am able to find similar size and shape but only with 5/16-18 threading, the ones on the brakes are 5/16-24 !! 5/8" diameter head, 5/16 width OAL of 3.25".

 

i was able to find a source for blank rod ends, and picked up a few, however they need to be cleaned up and then threaded and a 5/16 hole for the pin punched. talked to a few local machine shops but no one wants to do the work, not worth the time they say.

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Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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well kind of idle for now with the car, not much to do...

 

Reflectors are at plater, supposed to get nickeled tomorrow, then polished, so once i can pick them up they will go out west to Uvira to get aluminized. so another 2-3 weeks before i can get to work on assembling the headlamps and front end.

 

Front Brakes are at at stop, need to get either new rod ends or custom made brass nuts with standard threading on them. stock rod ends are 5/16-18 whereas the brass nuts are 5/16-24. 

 

think that is about it, other then going over the brakes again and setting them once i get the issue fixed. put together front end, requires headlamps, firing up and tuning/test drive, need brakes and wheels for that. and a once over to make sure i got everything....  probably about 90% complete at this point !!

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i did a test fitting and make a tool to test for alignment. looks like they should line up pretty close.
 

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I&I gasket with the washers stacked to prevent the stanchion base from collapsing once tightened (they come in the kit)

 

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gasket set, stanchion installed, hardware placed (loose)

 

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setup with tool i made to test fitment and alignment

 

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close up of tool

(long bolt, washer, bolt for head lamp bucket & piece of pex cut to length to allow 1/2 of thread to protrude

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