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1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project


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1 hour ago, BearsFan315 said:

Just sucks to be doing this TWICE !!

It does suck doing it twice but your second time is because of the first being someone else’s work. I just put the head back on the Olds and I (machine shop I always use) did it the first time. I totally trust my machine shop but I had two head bolts pull loose which we believe and hope was the issue. So redoing your own work really sucks and there’s no one to slap upside the head for it! Getting ready to take it for a ride, keep your fingers crossed for me!

Edited by chistech (see edit history)
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7 hours ago, BearsFan315 said:

yeah the fun part was fining each shim set, no one sells a complete set anymore. get a shim here, grab on there :)

Exactly, I had to do the same thing. I think the shipping ended up costing more than the shims by the time I was done!

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got a call from the machine shop today. block looks good, they had to bore .030 over to clean up walls and remove taper. crank is straight, gone to polish up journals, said pulley was not secured on the shaft, then we laughed as it is a press fit no hardware to hold it on. babbitt is in good shape. 

 

have to order my .030 cast iron pistons now and get them to him to move forward, they will hone the bores to final dims once they have pistons and rings in hand.

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2 hours ago, C Carl said:

Since you have a OHV engine, why not get modern aluminum pistons and raise the compression significantly ?     -    Carl 

how does aluminum pistons increase the compression.... considering the existing is 5.017:1 and the aluminum ones are designed to same form fit function as the stock ?? they may be lighter and reduce wear on crank. also different expansion rates for heat. 

 

we are boring .030 over so going from 194ci to 197ci

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The difference as far as wear goes would be the aluminum puts less strain on the crank, rod, and wrist pin bearings but the on thing people forget about is the rings. The original cast iron pistons and oversized replacements use a old, very aggressive ring set. Our old engines often need reboring because of excessive wear and this wear is caused by many things but the largest contributor is the rings. Going to modern aluminum pistons and modern ring sets will almost guarantee little if any future bore wear. Using the original cast iron and original rings will guarantee wear will start pretty quickly. They cause the bore taper I’m sure they found in your motor having to go .030 over. My Olds had standard bore CI pistons but a better, less aggressive ring design, and only needed a .020 rebore. My 31’ engine that had the original standard bore CI pistons also needed a .030 rebore like yours. I would use the aluminum pistons and not look back. Just my opinion.

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update, went by the machine shop today to look at the block and crank...

block has been rough bored .030 over, have pistons on the way along with pins and rings.

spent a good hour going over what has been done, where we are, and what is next on the list...

 

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he had concerns on the crank, looks like all the front main bearing area has some wear in it, about .70 or so, you can visible see the low spot of the wear. we talked about grinding it flat and getting it smooth, and then polishing up all the journals. looks like the center and the rear we re previously ground down .010.

crank is free of cracks, and is straight !!

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then looking at the mains...

visual inspection say they look to be in good condition ?!? 

 

think there was about .004-.005 shim in the mains bearings.

 

should i just get them all redone and start over or ?? considering i have to get the front journal of the crank ground

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Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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I would grind the front journal down.010 to match the rest of the crank and if the center and rear still have plenty of shims left, just redo the front main. My 32’ Olds mains had the same dating with the oval around OMW (Olds motor works). My 31’ Chevy had the same sort of markings too. Shame new stuff isn’t done the same way. They don’t want you to know how quickly it’s failed now.

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2 hours ago, chistech said:

I would grind the front journal down.010 to match the rest of the crank and if the center and rear still have plenty of shims left, just redo the front main. My 32’ Olds mains had the same dating with the oval around OMW (Olds motor works). My 31’ Chevy had the same sort of markings too. Shame new stuff isn’t done the same way. They don’t want you to know how quickly it’s failed now.

 

sounds like a plan, then all the mains will be .010 undersized from stock. not sure what shims were in there. i talked with Russ up at Paul's and it is $365 to do all the mains. i found a local shop that will line bore for me estimated around $650-750, Russ said $625 for him to do a line bore, plus $400-500 for round trip shipping.

 

think to be safe i am at lest going to get all the mains redone to a semi. then the local shop will line bore and finish it off on the mains with .006 - .008 shim set for each per the info i read for the 194 Chevrolet. think the sets i goat are .031 sets so could do any variation up to .010 per main bearing.

 

really debating if i should go ahead and get the connecting rods done or go with what i have ?!? guess could mic out the journal for the rods, and then measure out the assembled conn rod sets with no shims and see what allowance i have.  Russ quoted $110 per conn rod re babbitt. do they do these to a finished size per the crank journals or ?? set up with a.006-.008 shim set in each conn rod when doing so.

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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picking up the main inserts and the connecting rods and caps to ship to Russ @ Pauls'

 

hoping to pick them up tomorrow on my lunch break, and then ship them out by this weekend at the latest. approx 4 weeks to get them back ready to install.

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8 hours ago, BearsFan315 said:

yes was clear on the 1929 Chevrolet 194 straight six. 

 

found a local shop that can do the line bore and he is familiar with the 194 3 main, said it would be around 450-750 depending on setup and machine time.

Hate to tell you but he’s going to charge you the higher price because of the three different sizes of bearings. My shop guy commented on that very issue. 

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pick up the connection rods/pistons and the main inserts today as well as the crank

 

the connecting rods and shims along with the main inserts will be going to Russ out at Paul's Rod & Bearing


the crank shaft is going over to another shop that will do the work on it. clean it up, magnaflux it, then grind and polish to provide numbers for the babbitt !! same shop that will be doing the line boring of the block as well.

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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just an update for anyone following... Parts (Mains and Connecting Rods) have been received and verified by Russ at Paul's Rod and Bearing. looking at about 4 weeks turnaround time. machine shop has NOT started on crank yet, have a few in front of it, hoping by end of month to have the done so we can send numbers to Russ.

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  • 2 weeks later...

currently idling and circling the airport

 

waiting on the machine shop to magnaflux and grind/polish the crank so that we can get numbers to Russ @Pauls to do the babbitt.

 

also got update that my distributor has been rebuilt and should be on its way here in the next day or two. had 2 spare distributors and had VCCA Guru rebuild me a spare from the two, plan to use the spare as the main distributor and the current one will be my spare/emergency one. will have to post pictures of it when it arrives !!

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  • 2 weeks later...

got my Distributor back on Thursday !! man does it look sharp. this was done by VCCA guru Skip Geear, top notch quality work. tested on the Distributor machine and good to go !!

 

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what we started with, 2 spare distributors

 

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end result,. one show quality sharp distributor

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well Christmas has come and gone as well as the New Year. WE are now in 2020 and time to get back on the ball. Goal for now is to have the car back running by end of March. so is the plan !!

 

Got a call from Russ at Paul's Rod & Bearing he has cleaned up the parts and poured the babbitt. said the mains are already rough machined to .060 under and ready to ship. Connecting Rods are poured and rough cut, waiting on final numbers to machine to from the Machine shop.

 

Going to call the machine shop to see where the crank is in line, and tentative machine date. Once they get that done we will have final numbers to send to Russ @ Paul's.

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BearsFan315, I am glad that things are moving forward on the Chevy. It is a great restoration project, and I hope it all goes smoothly from here on in. John

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  • 3 weeks later...

got a call from the Machine Shop 2 about my crank, it is done and been polished, provided me the numbers for the connecting rod journals. so Called Russ over at Paul's Rod & Bearings to give him the numbers. they will assembly the connecting rod ends with a set shim pack, then machine them to size with an oil film clearance. said that should only take a few days, so should be on the way back to me by end of next week. 

 

I still need to go pick up my parts from Machine Shop 1, since Machine Shop 2 will be finishing the work and reassembling my short block. This is a good start to the new year !!  should start moving along !!

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went by machine shop 1 today and got all my pieces, well HOPE i got them all :)

 

now waiting on the babbitt to arrive so that i can take everything to machine shop 2 to start finally honing and machining, then assembly ;)

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bought the transmission rebuild kit from C&P Automotive, as well as new bearings and their main drive bearing retainer w/ seal.

 

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1923-1931 Transmission Rebuild Kit

 

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1925-1931 Transmission Main Drive Bearing Retainer

 

just wondering how big of a task this is, and if i need any special tools to do the job ?? i have a press if needed for gears or bearings.

 

figured i should go through the transmission while the engine is getting done. make sure the main components are good to go for a long time...

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