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1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project


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well did a little tweaking last night, working on the tuning. 

trying to find the sweet spot where everythign is content and happy

 

also adjusted the valves again

 

Got a call from Chipper, and he has fixed my Electrolock and it is on its way back home. seems the cylinder (pot metal) had seized up a tad, he got it free and cleaned it up. should be here thursday or friday, so maybe this weekend will get it installed and tested.

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after running around for 15 minutes or so, when i pulled back into driveway the temp gauge was right side of alcohol boils. at the line

then when i shut it off, it puked out the overflow. shot a video of it bubbling up the gano, while driving no bubbles at all, only when i cut it off. 

 

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If you haven’t joined the VCCA, I would suggest that as there are many there on the forums that will help you out. Not sure if you’re planning on going to Hershey but there’s a good chance someone there would have one also. The guys on the VCCA helped me immensely and their knowledge is beyond most on any other forum.

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7 hours ago, robert lut said:

I am looking for a gas gauge for my 1929 Chevrolet international ac  the gas tank has 2 openings for gas to fill the tank one of the holes should hold a gas gauge can any one help me locate one. thank you 

VCCA is the CHevrolet place, guys are helpful and can point you in the right direction, also these guys sell used and some NOS parts, i have gotten a lot of parts from Gary

 

*Gary Wallace in Missouri
.....Website:Early Chevrolet Parts
.....Phone:(314) 293-1991
*Lonny Ekstrand in Texas
.....Website:Stanleys Parts
.....Phone:(817) 478-7265

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6 hours ago, chistech said:

Jerry, are you saying it was overheating by just driving it around? If it did, that filter could be blocked enough already. It should run right about straight up and down on the gauge in normal driving.

ran fine while driving it, but then sitting it does not like. no gurgling or bubbles while driving, just when i shut it off, not sure if you read the post by Chip in the VCCA. I need to drop my coolant level and break it in, has only a few hours on it an very few miles.

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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Okay, makes more sense now. My new motor would do the same but isnow much better with 1200 miles on it. My Olds will also heat up when idling slow but it too is a new motor with no miles on it. They temp gauge always goes up when you shut the car down also. I have a thermostat in my car because I have a heater and my car runs a constant temp no matter how cool outside might be. No stat on the Olds but it has cabin adjustable shutters at the front of the radiator to restrict incoming air flow to help raise the temp in cold weather. Summer the shutters are left fully open.

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on Saturday our local chapter of the AACA met up at Doumar's (click on link to learn more, all the locals KNOW Doumar's) i decided i would venture out and drive the 1929 over for a sandwich and fries. several other members ventured out as well driving their antiques. would have to say was a little rough ride, but as expected for the 1929. attached some pictures of the other cars there, pictures were taken by fellow club member and camera man Bob S. The trip was only about 7 miles, mainly back roads, and included a trip through the local tunnel to cross the river. cruised mainly around 30-35.

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well too kit out for a small trip to the local drive in with local AACA club, about 6-7 miles from the house most all back roads, kept it around 25-35. car ran nice, smooth around around those speeds. temp stayed in the alc boils range, never above, even sitting at stop lights. when i got there and parked, (no hood still) i noticed a small amount steam/ smoke coming out around push rod cover and more so out of the oil fill tube. not a lot but a small trail easily seen. group ate, chatted, had ice cream then i headed back home. car was nice and cool when i left to go back. same trip home, parked in driveway and same trail of steam/smoke when i looked at engine. also noticed that the coolant level was down, i could see it in the Gano filter. when i left i had it about 1/2 above the top of the core in the radiator, once back home and cooled off about 4 inches lower. never puked or dumped when i parked at diner, or back home. so assume it is blowing it or burning it. 

 

going to:
1-drain oil and see if coolant is in oil pan
2-do a compression check on each cylinder no plugs 1-6 see if any drastic difference

 

just a note block was redone before i acquired it, i have done the rocker arm assemblies set shims on mains & Rods on bottom end, as well as all new tappets and push rods from C&P

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well did a second road test on saturday. topped off coolant with some distilled water then drove the car around the back of the neighborhood, was a 25-30 mph drive about 3 miles or so a dozen or so stop and gos. car did well and only got up to the line after normal. 

 

took a few turn overs to get started, but fired up and ran nicely. 

 

back home in driveway, car did not loose any coolant, did NOT see any air in the gano filter while driving.

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decided to do a little longer run and drive on sunday.

 

car did not want to start, then i retarded the spark (pulling cable on dash) car fired right up, and if i pushed it back in the car would stumble and stall. going to have to check the timing and see if it moved or what.

 

drove the car about a mile around neighborhood then ventured out on the one of the side roads, speed limit 35mph. drove this down for about 3-5 miles at a steady 35 mph, car ran fine and temp stayed right above the mid mark of alcohol boils. turned around in a parking lot and started to head back. about a mile back noticed steam coming from radiator, and coolant around the top nozzle/hose and temp was had just past the mark after alcohol boils. we pulled on a side street and coolant started to gurgle and car puked some. sat there for a while let it cool down, actually had a few people in neighbor hood come out and ask about car and if we were ok and needed anything. very nice of them.

 

after car cooled fired right back up and drove back home staying around 25 mph. parked it and let it cool off.

 

could not see where the coolant was coming from up top, maybe loose clamp, or something. parked it in the garage and will have to sit for a few days as i am busy with the local meet here this week and work.

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Things to check:

 

1-Check again for Coolant in oil

...(was no evidence before this road trip, will have to recheck now to see if any is in the oil

2-Pull Plugs and check coloration and condition, check gap as well

3-Pull distributor cap and check points, gap, etc...

3-Check timing and see where it is with spark cable all the way in.

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did a compression check, cyl 1 through 6, all plugs removed, spun engine over with starter, till Pressure maxed out on each cylinder, about 3-5 revolutions.

all were around 60-65 PSI

did NOT do a leak down, guess i could see how long it could hold the pressure, or set a duration and check at 1 min, 3 min, 5 min, etc... 

 

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Cylinder 01

 

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Cylinder 02

 

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Cylinder 03

 

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Cylinder 04

 

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Cylinder 05

 

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Cylinder 06

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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todays venture was machine shop calls... trying to get all my ducks in a row so when i pull the head i can go get it magnafluxed. figured IF i am pulling it, I am going to get it checked. found a few local shops that do that thing, and can machine it if needed, 1 of them can do the cast iron welding, the other 2 have a shop outside that does that for them. magnaflux cost run from $25 to $65 and can be done in a day or two. some also offered to do a pressure/vacuum test to test for porosity and pin holes.that is additional cost, approx $50.

 

now jsut have to remove everything so i can remove the head... love back pedaling !! oh the joys.

 

and just to think the PO told me the engine was completely rebuild... NOt today sir, not today. considering that they had a complete valve job done, would figured to get a magnaflux to be safe. who knows maybe it is something else. but all signs are pointing towards a cracked head.

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Things like this suck. My buddy Joe called me today to tell me he started putting on his rear fenders and noticed something not right with the color compared with the color of the car body. He paints his own car and has a big garage so he paints in one area and leaves the parts in the area. Turns out the paint shop mixed the two batches of paint differently and he didn’t notice because of his body being in another room plus the fluorescent lighting. He had put his front fenders on along with both aprons and never noticed the color differences. Now he has to pull parts off the car and repaint all four fenders, the splash aprons, radiator apron, fuel tank apron, and the luggage rack. He was really upset and depressed when he called and I can’t blame him for being so. It just plain sucks.

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1 hour ago, BearsFan315 said:

and just to think the PO told me the engine was completely rebuild... NOt today sir, not today.

 

Sorry for you misfortune, sounds like you're getting it all straightened out though, good job!

 

I spent the first 20 years of the car hobby trusting sellers, I'm a slow learner what can I say... and its cost me some cash I wish I had back along with my sense of trust.

 

Keep up the good work!

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