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1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project

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talked with my engine shop friday, and he said he was in the midst of working on it ?? could it be ? or was it a hoax


said he was installing pistons and such, but having an issue, said got 1 in and everything turns smooth and freely, then when he puts in the second one, it locks up ?!? i went down the question list, clearances, gaps, etc. everything in the correct direction, etc... so hopefully he will have it all together in a few weeks, i told him i want it completed by the end of October, and done right & professionally.


we will see what happens

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engine rebuilder called me yesterday with a few questions/concerns. thought i would post here for feedback/thoughts:

1-camshaft timing gear keyway i bought a NORS fiber one from TFS. however the keyway in it is approx 5/32 wide where as the keyway in the cam and the existing cam gear are 3/16 wide. so was wondering if we need to widen keyway in the gear or was the original one opened up to 3/16 somewhere long the line. or what are our options

2-crank gear condition has some side wear that should be irrelevant, looks like the slinger was loose at one time and grooved the front face of the gear. The main concern is that it looks like someone used a 2 jaw puller to pull the gear off at one time. There are 2 small chips on 2 of the gear teeth. does NOT look major but he would like to put on a new NOS or NORS gear if available. if not sure we could reuse it, i can get pictures if needed. 

3- crank gear spacing/gap, what is the gap / spacing on hte crank gear or should it just align with the cam gear once set ??

3-camshaft gear washer/spacing. camshaft has been reground and ready for install. On the install the cam goes in, then the new thrust plate bolts on. question was there is a .003 clearance. engine builder was asking the proper method for setting the clearance for pressing on the cam gear. he was thinking of using a washer on the shaft behind the cam gear. but was wondering how it should be done on these older 194. he has done 216 & 235s

4-crank pulley fitment. assume that the crank gear pulley is a press fit, however mine is barely a slip fit. what tis the proper id of the pulley and od of the shaft ? thought was to find another pulley if the shaft is ok, or sleeving the pulley to press fit on the exiting shaft. but assume it would have to be a split sleeve for the keyway.

5-crankgear flinger does it sit loose on the shaft or ?? i know that the open end of the flinger, since it is a cup shape goes up against the ring on the timing cover since it spins freely. should the back of the flinger sit flush against the crank gear. the key on the crankshaft spins the flinger. 

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1929 Crankshaft Gear - Condition


working with the engine rebuilder and he is asking if the crankcase gear should be replaced, or could i just reuse it ? it looks pretty good, however somewhere in its life someone pulled it off with a 2 jaw puller and made a few indentions in the end of the teeth and sheared a little material off one of them, and a chip on another. i was able to take a few pictures of the gear.


also on the front face, there are some wear marks from the oil thrower, as it must have been loose in the cover and been spinning around and wearing on itself and the gear. 


















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1929 Crankshaft Oil Thrower


got a few shots of the oil thrower that gets sandwiched between the crankshaft gear and the crankshaft pulley.

you can see the matching wear on the one face that was against the gear. it was not held in place, as the pulley was loose on the shaft and was allowed to walk.

does this looks like it can be cleaned up ?

flatten the inside lip, so that it sits flat & flush in between the gear & pulley.
then ensure that when it is in the cover that the outer edge (large OD) does NOT rub on the inside face of the timing cover. i know there it a free spinning ring in there. should or does this thrower rest on or ride on that free spinning ring ??







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worked on the oil thrower, used my press to flatten outer the inner and get it square. looks a lot better now, need to test fit it to make sure it will work, or tweak it some more.


as for the Crankshaft gear, found a few online used, but they are badly pitted and/or worn. the one i have is in far better shape then any that I could find. I may have a lead, Gary Wallace said he had some reproductions made a while back and may have one laying around. he is gonna look and see then let me know. if i have to use this one will have it cleaned up and make sure all the gears are true and no shape or distorted edges. good thing it goes up against a softer fiber gear so once it seats against the gear should be a smooth ride, as the fiber will distort to the shape to the gear it is riding against. as long as the clearance is god, should not be any issues. the crankshaft gear will ride on 2 gears on the fiber gear since it is a 2:1 ratio 52 teeth to 26 teeth.

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went back to the rebuilder on friday to go over plan of action


he is going to broach the cam gear keyway and ensure it is centered to keep timing aligned, i was able to get a new crankshaft gear from Gary W, he had a batch made a while back and had one on the shelf, ended up working the oil thrower in the press and on the bench to get it back into shape for reuse, he is going to use the shim method to set the cam gear and ensure alignment with the crankshaft gear. we are going to bore out the crankshaft pulley and then make a sleeve to ensure a press fit onto the crankshaft. 


i need to drop off the timing cover gasket so that he can put the front together once the gear & pulley are ready. this way he can validate clearances.

should be in the next few weeks depending on time it takes to machine the gear & pulley.

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  • 3 months later...

got a call from the rebuilder last night as he had a few questions, so went by this morning before work to take a look and see what we could do.

he pressed on the NOS Cam Gear i had, and the holes in the cam gear to tighten the bolts on the camshaft thrust plate was wider offset, not enough room to get the required bolts in there and NO clearance to tighten them up if you finagled them in. so opted to enlarge the holes to allow access. bolts go in, can tighten them down, but can not turn the cam, because the bolt heads rub and hit the backside of the cam gear. seems that this cam gear has a larger shoulder/raise area on the rear then the original. the shoulder/raised area is nearly as wide as the gear. so machining the head down would barely leave any head on the bolt, machining back the shoulder/raise area on the back of the gear to clear the bolt head i feel would compromise the gear as a whole.

options are to find another fiber gear with a smaller shoulder/raised area, or try the aluminum aftermarket one which has a smaller shoulder/raised area.



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Sometimes parts are just crazy. They fit in all places but one and it makes you think didn’t others have the same problem and why did the manufacturers make them like that.

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7 hours ago, chistech said:

Sometimes parts are just crazy. They fit in all places but one and it makes you think didn’t others have the same problem and why did the manufacturers make them like that.

yeah, the engine builder says it looks like it was made for another application, and when Steve from TFS called me today he said the same thing, based on the size & location of the holes for access to the cam thrust plate. too far out and way too small. He said he looked at 2 others he had in stock and they are correct, they have a nice recess and 2 larger holes spaced closer together. so he asked me to ship this one back and he would swap it out. always good customer service from them. he even offered to get it in the mail today if i needed ASAP and to keep the builder going.   


The engine builder said the aluminum cam gear (bought one when they were first released) fit like a glove and not a single issue at all installing it. so we are going with that. 

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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Talked to the engine builder this afternoon, he said that they got the gears lined up and all set. installed the front cover and gasket. and then heated up the crank pulley and tried to press it on, and sopped half way. they had to pull it back off and doing so broke out the new bushing they had machined and put in there dues to the sloppy loose fit. he thinks they did not HONE it enough and need a looser fit then what they were initially aiming for. also may have been an issue with dissimilar metals expanding and contracting at different rates. i figure it should be a press fit, tap it on or heat up a tad and slide on, not much heat should be needed.


so they are going to machine a new one, hone it to fir the crankshaft again, and try once more. 


i am thinking to avoid any concerns or issues with the bushing coming out if the pulley is removed, would be to bevel the inside of the pulley bore and the outside of the bushing then bevel weld them together once bushing is installed in the pulley. then grind weld down, hone to bushing bore to fit, key bushing/pulley, install. the two should never part.

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for those interested, here are some pictures of the NORS vs the Original out of the 1929 Engine


Dimensions for you dimensionally inclined:

BOLT HOLES.............1.11..............0.65
DIST BC.....................3.12............2.79
FRNT DEPTH.............0.12TPR.....0.20
FRNT SHOULDER......ANGLE.......2.00
REAR DEPTH..............0.40...........0.28
REAR SHOULDER......2.00............2.31
Shoulders are top flat only, does not include the radii


top of gear views













Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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