BearsFan315

1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project

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Here are the Parking lights:

 

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0-Dark NO Lights on, other than my flashlight for finding pins in the connector and not shorting out the bulbs and battery

 

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1-Standard #63 bulb...single filament Incan, 38 lumen, 3 Candle Power
 

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2-LED #798 6k White....6 fwd SMD LED, 7 side LED, 90 lumen, 6 Candle Power

 

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3-LED #845 6k White....9 PIN LED, 7 side LED, 360 lumen, 23 Candle Power

the standard bulb lights up nicely, then the #798 does about the same lighting, but in a whiter light, then the 845 really lights up the room

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now the headlights:

 

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0-Dark NO Lights on, other than my flashlight for finding pins in the connector and not shorting out the bulbs and battery

 

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1b low/c high-Standard #1188 bulb...dual filament Incan, 402 low/628 high lumen, 24 low/34 high Candle Power

 

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2b low/c high-LED #475 6k White....8 low/16 high6 side SMD LED, 1200 low/ 1800 high lumen, 94 low/141 high Candle Power

 

pretty much same situation, the incan does a good job lighting up, but the LED is whiter and brighter.

02b #475 LED Low.jpg

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well got a package in the mail today and it was my NOS trim rings for the headlamps !!

 

they are good looking trim rings, not perfect but great for my restoration. they look just like the original ones i had but in way better shape. and as a bonus they had the NOS Paper Gaskets in there as well.

 

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Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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here is a shot of the gasket and then the gasket laying over the one available from The Filling Station

only difference really is thickness. the one in my headlamps originally was .125" thick this one a little thinner.

 

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complete headlamp built, minus lights...  

 

will tear it down, clean everything up, paint touch up and then pick lights and build to install.

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Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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Looks like you’re getting a much better fit on the trim ring now. Looks great.

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well built the headlamps with the stock style bulbs. and started the install on the car, and got the stanchions and cross bar on, then the headlamps.

 

need to fine tune and tighten everything up. then once the car is running i can set and adjust the headlamps per the manual. then i can do testing on the various LEDs with the actual car and driving ":)

 

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Ah, she has beautiful eyes! Getting very close Jerry. 

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yeah hadlamps were the last thing on the list.

 

going to touch up some paint and such this weekend. mainly black that i scuffed or scratched in the re assembly.

 

then a once over and make sure everything is correct and secure, then i need to get some gasoline and then i will try to test fire and see if it will fire up or kick my arse. 

 

been almost 4 years since it last ran, and done a ton of work to it since then.

 

hood will go on last once i get it running and tuned properly. just a pain to go back and forth to adjust and tweak things with the hood in the way.

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my punch list is down to UNDER 25 items left to go, and most of those are checks and steps for test firing

 

I have set a date of Next weekend as the date i plan on filling fluids, and attempting to fire it up !!

 

this week will be doing all my final checks and double checks. 

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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Did a double check this weekend, checked all hardware connections to ensure everything was tight & secure, checked all electrical connections and wired to ensure they were solid and secured.

Did some touch up on the black paint, few dings, scratches, etc...

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Working on my check list before i try to fire up the car... let me know if i missed anything or of anything is wrong. just really do NOT want to mess anything up, lot of time and effort in this car, and ready to get it running and driving ;)

 

FILL AND TOP OFF COOLANT
..... 11.5 QT 50/50 GREEN ANTIFREEZE W/ DISTILLED WATER
FILL AND TOP OFF OIL
..... 5 QT 10W-30
FILL AND TOP OFF TRANSMISSION
..... 2.5 PT 600WT
OIL IN U-JOINT
..... 4OZ 600WT 
OIL IN REAR END
..... FILL TO FILL PORT HOLE
FUEL IN FUEL TANK
..... FEW GALLONS OF REGULAR NON-ETHANOL
CHECK TIMING:
..... STOCK: FLOAT: .75", SET TIMING TO 12 DEG, SPARK PLUG GAP: .024", POINT GAP: .018"
..... VCCA: FLOAT: .75", SET TIMING TO 18 DEG, SPARK PLUG GAP: .040"-.045", POINT GAP: .018"
CHECK CARBURETOR SETTINGS
..... OPEN THE IDLE ADJUSTING SCREW FROM 3/4 TO 1 1/4 TURNS
..... WITH THE HAND THROTTLE ON THE INSTRUMENT BOARD CLOSED, SET THE THROTTLE LEVER ADJUSTING SCREW SO THAT THE MOTOR WILL RUN APPROXIMATELY 300 REVOLUTIONS PER MINUTE
..... IF THE MOTOR RUNS TOO FAST, BACK THE ADJUSTING SCREW OUT. IF TOO SLOW, TURN IN UNTIL THE PROPER SPEED IS OBTAINED.
POLARIZE GENERATOR
..... ALL WIRES ATTACHED AND THE ELECTROLOCK OFF
..... ATTACH A JUMPER WIRE TO ONE TERMINAL ON THE CUTOUT
..... TOUCH THE OTHER END OF THE JUMPER WIRE TO THE OPPOSITE TERMINAL ON THE CUTOUT (YOU SHOULD GET A SPARK)
..... "GEN" TERMINAL ON THE CUTOUT TO THE "BATT" TERMINAL ON THE CUTOUT
..... DO THIS A COUPLE OF TIMES TO MAKE SURE THAT THE GENERATOR IS POLARIZED
TURN OVER ENGINE TO PRIME FUEL PUMP (FILL GLASS BOWL)
..... FEW SECONDS ON THEN WAIT (DO NOT HOLD DOWN PEDAL FOR TOO LONG)
FIRE UP ENGINE
ROUGH TUNE - SET CARBURETOR: IDLE & ACCEL & ADJUST TIMING FOR SMOOTH RUNNING
LET ENGINE WARM UP AND GET TO TEMP
..... CURE EXHAUST MANIFOLD, PIPE, & MUFFLER PAINT
..... (NORMAL OPERATING TEMP OR 350 DEG FOR 10 MIN) !! WITH VENTILATION !!
WATCH/ CHECK FOR
.....  ENGINE OVERHEAT
..... FLUID (WATER, GAS, OIL) LEAKS
..... VACUUM/AIR LEAKS
TEST GENERATOR AS STOCK INPUT & OUTPUT VOLTAGE & AMPS
..... 8.2 VOLTS AT 1,700 RPM GENERATOR SPEED COLD, AND 7.7 VOLTS AT 1,800 GENERATOR SPEED HOT
..... ADJUST USING THIRD BRUSH TO MEET ABOVE SETTINGS
..... OPTIONAL GEN TEST:
..... ADJUST THE THIRD BRUSH SO THAT IT IS ABOUT 4 COMM. BARS APART FROM THE MAIN BRUSHAT THAT SETTING YOU SHOULD SHOW A MAX. OF AROUND 10 AMPS, FAST IDLE, LIGHTS OFF

 

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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what method of mounting is general accepted/ correct for the license plates on a 1929 Chevrolet.

i just got a set of nicely restored 1929 Virginia plates and do NOT want to damage them by any means !!

was thinking some black oxide hardware, or black painted hardware, slotted head screws, along with a washer and nut on each one. but was thinking of placing a small thin rubber washer behind the head of the screw as well as the plate to mounting bar. this way the paint would be better protected. or maybe cork washers :)

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picked up a Gano inline coolant filter, figured i would give it a try and see if it works. also figured if there is any debris in the engine, head, etc that the filter will catch it before it hits the radiator. also will be cool to see the coolant flowing through the clear tube. another perk is you will be able to see if there are air bubbles in it as well. 

 

picked this up from Gano Filters which is basically Restoration Supply Company.

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also got some distilled water and green antifreeze.

 

basically enough to do 2 rounds if needed. or 1 time and some spare :)

 

did 1 gallon green and almost 2 gallons water. 

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Hey Jerry, I’m probably wrong but I thought the filter cone went the other way but I’m sure the instructions had you install it that way.

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On 8/30/2019 at 10:48 PM, chistech said:

Hey Jerry, I’m probably wrong but I thought the filter cone went the other way but I’m sure the instructions had you install it that way.

yeah i installed it per the directions, cone points towards the radiator with flow of fluid. even has an arrow on the filter to make sure you do so.

 

only bad thing is on these cars the return to radiator is near vertical vs a slat run.  supposed to install the filter close to the radiator to catch debris BEFORE it gets to radiator.

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well spent most of the day doing final checks and then trying to test fire the 1929...

 

went down my list and validated everything, got everything cheeked off, and put fuel in the car. spun it over a few times, only for a few seconds at a time, then a minute rest to pump fuel to bowl. after several cycles still no fuel. so we started to diagnose the problem. tried to put fuel in pump and then go from there, nothing. so we double checked everything was sealed at the connections, still no go. pulled fuel line from pump and was able to siphon gas from tank easily. so that is a check. did a vacuum test on pump and got no reading ?!? needle did not even really move. so tried the pressure (outlet) and basically the same thing. we pull the pump double checked and on the bench we were getting 5-6 inHg on the vacuum and about 2-2.5 psi on the outlet for pressure. we could tell the cam lobe and the fuel pump arm are worn some. we did a test and put the pump back on the car with NO gasket bt the pump and the block. and did a test we got about 2-2.5 inHg and on outlet about 1.0 psi, but not enough to actually siphon fuel from the tank to the pump.

 

figured we were going to need to weld and build up the fuel pump arm, so we called it a day and went to get some dinner. i spent last night searching and reading post on here about this issue, and seems the general answer is to TIG weld and build up the fuel pump arm and try that, if that does not work then have to build up and grind the lobe on the cam for the fuel pump which sounds like it is EXPENSIVE !!. Now the fun begins trying to 1 find a local shop that can do a quality TIG weld and 2 one that is actually willing to do a small job of this nature. seems NO ONE around here wants to do anything unless it is a large government contract and they an make money. not many people that are willing to help out a fellow car guy on the side. its a shame...

question, i assume the arm that needs to be TIG welded is simple steel ?? nothing fancy or exotic. and based on the numbers should be around .400 bear rivet.

 

From what i read the proper numbers for the pump should be:
output pressure 1.50 - 2.00 PSI
inlet vacuum     8-10 Hg

 

though it was a failure we learned a lot, and more projects coming up...

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Dumb question from me of course: You have the correct arm in the pump? You should have a type 405 pump, which was an 855235 or 856198.  

 

Can you "run" it on the bench to see how much more arm travel you need to generate the pressures you need?

 

P.S. just looking for the fuel pump you have. The photos from page 2 of your topic are gone, which is fairly unhelpful.

 

 

Edited by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

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yes this is the correct pump, complete

and i have a spare

read some articles on VCCA and they discussed the NEW arm is like .400 thick across at the rivet, mine is .315 spare is .325

going to see about getting it built up

 

as for the pictures, yeah i know thanks google, when i started this venture loaded all my picts up to picaso, and linked them in. then google took over and became google photos, and all links were broke :( need to go back and embed them in the postings.

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10 hours ago, BearsFan315 said:

yes this is the correct pump, complete

 

Bummer about the photos. We saw the same thing with Photobucket when they changed from cost free to a fee system.

 

You might be interested to know the same repair kit, including arm, was used on these vehicles.

image.png.80603c5aa5f9ba34052e4a488420c3cb.png

 

these are types 411, 419, 425, 428, 436?, 505?, 506?, 512, 514.

Edited by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

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