BearsFan315

1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project

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Sounds like youre dealing with a really good shop Jerry. Funny how people will tell you something is all rebuilt when its not even close. My original motor for my 31 was supposedly gone completely through and I was told how lucky I was to get a car with all the expensive motor work done. Turned out the head was completely fresh and the block bored with fresh pistons so it does have 75# compression but the idiot never touched the rod bearings or mains, all of which are bad. Have that engine sitting on a dolly and someday will fix the issues it has. It ran perfectly but had a knock. But hey, I was so lucky to have gotten a motor completely gone through!

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20 hours ago, chistech said:

Make sure he calls you!

oh he knows he is getting the friday check in calls !! and they are only 10 minutes down the road from my work, so no answer gets a drop in visit. but they do not mind and will show me what is going on and where everything is at.

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At this point, unless I know the person who was supposed to have done a rebuild, and can ask them what they did, I would not believe any sellers claim of a "rebuilt engine". Even when they are telling the truth - and I suspect most people are truthful - 90% of the car enthusiast world simply can't tell a good job from a bad one. I've had one engine done by a "professional" (this was many years ago)...He came very highly recommended and, in fact, did some Silver Ghost engines. But, on my engine he did some really schlock work. It was at that point I decided that if I was going to pursue old cars I had to learn how to do nearly everything mechanical myself.

Edited by JV Puleo
typo (see edit history)
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got a call from the radiator shop today... all done and ready for pick up

they flushed it and cleaned it out, did a small repair on the filler neck, flow tested it and said it was good, did a pressure test to 20 psi and then painted it black for me ;)

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BearsFan315, you do great work. I am glad that you are getting the Chevy sorted out.

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11 minutes ago, John S. said:

BearsFan315, you do great work. I am glad that you are getting the Chevy sorted out.

Just sucks to be doing this TWICE !!

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I know, but at least it is you are getting to the source. Some folks would throw up their hands and walk. You're a better man than that!

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1 hour ago, BearsFan315 said:

Just sucks to be doing this TWICE !!

It does suck doing it twice but yoursecond time is because of the first being someone elses work. I just put the head backon the Olds and I (machine shop I always use) did it the first time. I totally trust my machine shop but I had two head bolts pull loose which we believe and hope was the issue. So redoing your own work really sucks and theres no one to slap upside the head for it!Getting ready to take it for a ride, keep your fingers crossed for me!

Edited by chistech (see edit history)
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11 hours ago, chistech said:

I got a few of those sets when i rebuilt my 31 engine.

yeah the fun part was fining each shim set, no one sells a complete set anymore. get a shim here, grab on there :)

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7 hours ago, BearsFan315 said:

yeah the fun part was fining each shim set, no one sells a complete set anymore. get a shim here, grab on there :)

Exactly, I had to do the same thing. I think the shipping ended up costing more than the shims by the time I was done!

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yeah Bob Marx said he used to have them made and sell as sets. not sure why hew stopped, unless cost more that you can sell. does not seem to be a popular item people are looking for in these years.

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got a call from the machine shop today. block looks good, they had to bore .030 over to clean up walls and remove taper. crank is straight, gone to polish up journals, said pulley was not secured on the shaft, then we laughed as it is a press fit no hardware to hold it on. babbitt is in good shape.

have to order my .030 cast iron pistons now and get them to him to move forward, they will hone the bores to final dims once they have pistons and rings in hand.

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Since you have a OHV engine, why not get modern aluminum pistons and raise the compression significantly ? - Carl

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2 hours ago, C Carl said:

Since you have a OHV engine, why not get modern aluminum pistons and raise the compression significantly ? - Carl

how does aluminum pistons increase the compression.... considering the existing is 5.017:1 and the aluminum ones are designed to same form fit function as the stock ?? they may be lighter and reduce wear on crank. also different expansion rates for heat.

we are boring .030 over so going from 194cito 197ci

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The difference as far as wear goes would be the aluminum puts less strain on the crank, rod, and wrist pin bearings but the on thing people forget about is the rings. The original cast iron pistons and oversized replacements use a old, very aggressive ring set. Our old engines often need reboring because of excessive wear and this wear is caused by many things but the largest contributor is the rings. Going to modern aluminum pistons and modern ring sets will almost guarantee little if any future bore wear. Using the original cast iron and original rings will guarantee wear will start pretty quickly. They cause the bore taper Im sure they found in your motor having to go .030 over. My Olds had standard bore CI pistons but a better, less aggressive ring design, and only needed a .020 rebore. My 31 engine that had the original standard bore CI pistons also needed a .030 rebore like yours. I would use the aluminum pistons and not look back. Just my opinion.

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update, went by the machine shop today to look at the block and crank...

block has been rough bored .030 over, have pistons on the way along with pins and rings.

spent a good hour going over what has been done, where we are, and what is next on the list...

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he had concerns on the crank, looks like all the front main bearing area has some wear in it, about .70 or so, you can visible see the low spot of the wear. we talked about grinding it flat and getting it smooth, and then polishing up all the journals. looks like the center and the rear we re previously ground down .010.

crank is free of cracks, and is straight !!

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then looking at the mains...

visual inspection say they look to be in good condition ?!?

think there was about .004-.005 shim in the mains bearings.

should i just get them all redone and start over or ?? considering i have to get the front journal of the crank ground

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Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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thought it was cool when looking at the main bearings, on the back of the shell you could clearly see the date and stamping on them !!

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I would grind the front journal down.010 to match the rest of the crank and if the center and rear still have plenty of shims left, just redo the front main. My 32 Olds mains had the same dating with the oval around OMW (Olds motor works). My 31 Chevy had the same sort of markings too. Shame new stuff isnt done the same way. They dont want you to know how quickly its failed now.

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