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1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project


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ok, so printed up mold 2 last night. 

 

so now have mold 1 & mold 2, they are prepped and ready, plan to print a total of four molds so that i can mold that as a batch. basically pour 4 seals to make 2 sets. basically takes 2 full day to make a complete set/2 molds.

 

so by Friday i should have the molds all ready to rock and roll.

 

also placed an order last night for the urethane, going with a Shore 60A urethane, also got the black pigment, along with a sealer/release compound. 

 

got confirmation that my metal insets have been cut and will ship today, and should be here by Saturday i hope so i can pour this weekend.

 

getting close and getting excited, need to get some mixing cups !!

 

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Mold 2 Complete

 

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2 molds complete and ready

 

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another view

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alright got another 2 molds printed and set up. not have 4 complete mold sets ready to rock.

 

think i may print one more spare set today just in case something goes array.

 

each set is numbered 1-4, each half is lettered a/b

 

was trying to figure out a way to clamp the molds together and hold them, then remembered i have some 4" Harbor Freight Bar Clamps that should work nicely, pondering 1 clamp per mold or two :!

 

urethane is on its way supposed to arrive today (Friday), my mixing cups are scheduled for delivery Saturday, and  insets are on the way supposed to arrive Monday :( so no molding this weekend, was hoping to spend Sunday learning and tinkering. Maybe can tinker with the modling process nd urethane without the insets to see how everything works.

 

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double clamped, one high one low

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well the weekend got off to a good start... my mixing cups arrive Friday, then Saturday morning i got my Urethane kit (day late but hey), and then later that afternoon i got my package with the metal insets !!

 

looks like i have everything on hand to try to do some pouring/molding. going to be a fun learning experience. 

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the insets look great !! decided to tinker around and do a test fit or two. mainly to make sure that the insets fit inside the molds, as well as have the clearance around the edges for urethane to completely cover and coat the metal inset. also made sure the chamfers hold the insets in the middle !! need full encapsulation !!

 

everything looks great and fits together as designed.

 

been a lot of trial and error to get to this point, the only thing left to do is mix and pour... and pray :)

 

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metal insets are clean

 

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fit nicely in the molds and over the pins

 

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looking down the funnel, you can see metal inset

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well took some time to do a test pour, this was for pour testing only, see how it mixes, how it pours, cures, etc....

 

i figured i would pour one set, one pure urethane no inset, then the other would pour with the 3d printed inset for validation purposes. want to make sure it will fully encapsulate the inset.

 

did my material calculations... firs was to put a coat of sealer/release on the molds, let set 15 minutes, then another light coat and let sit 30 minutes. mix up the urethrae, then measure out equal parts urethane Part A & urethane Part B. then mix them together into one mixing cup. then our into molds. i filled jut to the funnel so that there was extra material, i tapped and rocked the mold to make sure air was out and urethane was settled. actually mixed and poured nicely. slow and steady is the pace !!

 

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mold 1 & 2 coated with 2 coats sealer/release

 

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mold 2 with 3d printed inset

 

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mold 1 clamped and ready to pour

 

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mold 2 clamped and ready to pour

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supposed to let sit for 2 ours before handling... i let them sit for 4 hours to ensure that i can handle with out messing them up.

 

was concerned about getting them out of the molds !! pins pushed out like butter, nice and easy, then breaking the halves apart was simple popped them apart with a putty knife and easily separated !! then the urethane part easily came out of the mold , very easily !! 

 

total cure is supposed to be 48 hours, so will see what they look like and how they cure. they are semi soft, not very hard, feel like a urethane bushing but softer. i can easily twist them, but no metal inset in either... so the inset should provide rigidity. 

 

there is some flash, but that is fine with me, easily trimmed up. 

 

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mold 1 separated

 

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urethane 1 out of mold, no inset

 

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mold 1 no inset

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mold 2 with inset, same as 1 , easily separated and removed a little more rigid with the 3d printed inset, you can clearly see it in the photos.

 

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mold 2 separated

 

 

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pulling urethane 2 out of mold

 

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angle view of urethane 2, you can see the inset, opening closet to view

 

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close up of urethane, clearly see inset in the chamfers

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4 minutes ago, Bloo said:

These parts will be white?

 

no , they will be black, have the urethane dye only 10 drops per 3 oz of urethane for opaque

 

'test pour, this was for pour testing only, see how it mixes, how it pours, cures, etc....'

 

also allows me to see the 3d inset and validate if it is fully encapsulated !!

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not sure if i noted it before but there is a scribe line in the mold and it shows clearly in the finished part. this shows clearly where to cut the rubber to go around the shaft. without this it would be a guessing game. 

 

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you can see the scribe line on the right side of the urethane part, right at the quadrant of the cut out.

 

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close up of the scribe line. 

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well decided to go into production this morning and build complete finalized urethane parts !!

 

set up my four molds to pour, then applied sealed/release to each mold. this is a 45 minute process at minimum. then onto mixing urethane 3 parts, because adding in dye. mixed everything up, then combined and mixed, then on to pour...  well i learned that dues to a short pot life approx 4-5 minutes i can only really pour 2.5 molds in that time frame, pours have to be slow and steady stream to ensure air is out !!  once i his the third one it started to thicken and slow down... not to mention the cup was mighty warm, love chemical reactions !!

 

at least i got 2 poured, when i get home will break them open, and clean up the half pour, and prep for another pour. moving forward i will set up 4 molds.  then mix and pour 2 molds then mix and pour the other 2. only gonna mix urethane for 2 pours at a time so i have plenty of time to pour and set. then start on the next batch of 2.

 

this is all a learning experience. learning as i go !! frustrating & fun all at the same time

 

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4 molds all set up and ready for pour

 

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urethane for 4 mold pour

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Posted (edited)

ok so got home and busted open the molds, well 3 anyways, 2 were complete and whole and i knew the third was a partial since the material was hot and solidifying as i poured. but it turned out pretty cool... i will strip off the urethane and then clean up the inset and reuse it on another set. but allows me to see how opaque the mix is and if i need to adjust it, but look pitch black through, no light transition! it takes 48 hours for the urethane to cure, so it is semi pliable and easily removed at this stage. once it cures, lol have fun !! they were not joking when they said urethane will stick to about anything. but the release compound i have is working great !!

 

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mold split in half, and pedal seal ready to be removed

 

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pedal seal removed, straight from mold, no cleaning

 

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mold 3 where material began to solidify, you can see where material never made it all the way to the bottom. 

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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set up and did pour two... mixed up enough batch for 2 seals (1 set) poured that then mixed another batch and poured that. worked great, the time it takes works perfect with the material mix !!

 

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here is batch 2, plus a spare mold for a test i am doing... that is Mold 5 (back-up) top right next to minion cup

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prepped all the parts for molding...

each inset is sanded and roughed up to help urethane stick and adhere to it, even though it really does not need it. then they are cleaned rubbing alcohol/brake clean to remove any and all contaminants. i only tough them with gloves on to install them and handle them from the container i store them in now.

i mark my mixing cups, A, and B as to NOT mix them up. also you only add dye to part B, then mix B to A, a specific process and i follow the instructions. each cup is cleaned out with rubbing alcohol to remove any contaminants. also it is mixed 1:1 so i mark the cups at 15ml for quick reference when pouring. as time is essential. 

use popsicle sticks for stirring, and mark them A & B so i can mix up and stir parts, and NOT contaminate bt them. one use and toss em. got plenty around. i cut one end off so it is flat to allow me to scrape hte bottom of hte cups which is flat, and to scrape the walls to ensure thorough mixing and pouring. 

it is a tedious process and i am following it thoroughly. it works so i keep on moving as directed...

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got up this morning and took a look at the pour i did last night, and all four came out great. nice and solid, completely covered, and ready for clean up. so will move forward using the same process, 2x2 set up four molds, mix & pour 2, mix and pour 2, then let sit for 4+ hours, then remove and let cure for 48+ hours. figure can do 4 sets a day if i have the time. 

 

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molds opened up, black urethane on black PLA is kinda hard to see, but look at the funnel area

 

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all four seals removed

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Batch four has been poured, and will cure overnight, then remove that batch

 

prep and pour batch 5 in the morning if all goes well... only 2 more batches to pour and then out of materials... mainly metal insets !! should have enough urethane to complete all sets with a tad to spare.

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Friday morning update....

 

have 6 1/2 sets complete, should be able to make another 3 1/2  sets to get me 10 total sets.

 

I have randomly takes 1 seal here or there and torn them apart and validated cure at various stages, 6 hours, 12 hours, 24 hours, 48 hours look at how it is curing, adhering to the metal inset, etc...  looking good so far. up until 48+ hours they are still gooey in the middle. and the longer it sits the stickier it gets. but after 48 hours they look good, solid. the metal inset provides a nice backbone to support and hold the shape. with no inset i can fold the urethane on itself and not tear or rip. do not recommend trying, but i did it as a test. with a metal inset it will hold the shape you bend it to until the metal fatigues. the chamfer works for slotted flat head screws. since the seal is universal and flips for left or right.

 

once i get them all past 3 days cure i will trim them up and then cut the slit based on the scribe.

 

 

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well all 10 sets are molded and curing...

 

decided to do a test and clean up a set, earlier set.  i removed the flash & funnel by using a razor blade. then went back and used my dremel with a small sanding wheel to see if i could clean up the edges a little. then tried to see if i could sand a flat face to remove the grooves from the mold, and it came out nice and smooth. takes a few minutes of sanding but you can make them smooth. it does remove the sheen. but still looks like black urethane :)

 

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majority of flash removed along with funnel

 

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outside edge sanded

 

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inside edge sanded 

 

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front face sanded smooth

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Posted (edited)

here is a good comparison...

 

one is the 3d printed model where i started when making the mold for the seals, the other one is the completed poured urethane seal with metal inset. amazing that the end results looks very much like the designed 3d printed model i started with. guess i can call that success !! the urethane one you can see the metal inset around the screw hole. 

 

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Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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Posted (edited)

well everything is poured, and almost cured...  this weekend i will finish cleaning up all the flash, and put the slit in each one. this will complete the pedal seals !!  I plan to install one in my 1929 when it goes back together and then offer the rest up to anyone interested. know these are general reproductions and may not directly reflect the original seals in the 1929. I did my best with the help of others to recreate them as close as possible. if you prefer a smooth overall finish you can lightly sand the urethane to get the desired effect, just know that sanding will remove the sheen on the urethane. these seals are pretty durable but not sure what they can stand in way of abuse, use, and chemicals. i plan to use my as normal and see what happens. there will be no warranty or anything of the sorts. as is how is. 

 

I am ONLY asking for material costs, not trying to make any money but since i went through the exercise to create a set thought i would create a few extras so if anyone else was interested in a set, they could get one. 

 

I have several reproduced with the metal insets as provided by Chevrolet (they are semi rigid and less flexible) asking $30 per set plus shipping

I have only a few reproduced with NO metal insets (solid urethane) pretty flexible asking $20 per set plus shipping

both LOOK exactly the same on the outside except the metal inset inside.

 

they should be ready to ship starting monday, interested send me a PM and inquire.

 

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1929 Chevrolet Pedal Seals sets with Metal Insets

 

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1929 Chevrolet Pedal Seals sets Solid Urethane NO Metal Insets

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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  • 1 month later...

well with all this stuff going on, and not much going on, plus waiting around for my engine to come back I decided to take on making a new updated toe board. the one i had made fit ok but i had to modify it several times to get it to work in the car properly.

so i took the original one and test fit it in the car and decided i would give it a try, worst case would be to use the modified one i have :)

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Posted (edited)

i made a cardboard template to match the original, which is worn and busted up in a few spots. 
tweaked and trimmed the cardboard to fit the cowl and match the original wood.

once i got a good fit, i then digitized the cardboard and put it all in CAD :)

 

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Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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Posted (edited)

Printed out a CAD copy full size and cut it out on cardboard to validate the form fit and function to both the original and the cowl.
fit really nice, so next up was wood !! cost $30 for a 4' x 4' piece of Oak plywood 3/4" thick. went with oak as the old guys at the lumber yard identified it clearly and easily, thought i was going to have to fight them to get my original back !!

good thing was there is enough wood to make 2 out of it

 

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raw plywood ready for cuttin

 

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cut in half ready for angle guides

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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did my math and came up with a way to put in the tapered back side of the toe board for the pedal clearance. 
cut some 2X4 into angles based on my math, and then attached them to the toe board in area that will get cut off :)
this worked great on my table saw, cut each side then cut about every 1/4 of inch so that i can go back with chisel and knock out the slits and then sand smooth
lot of work but worked great 

 

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2x4 guide attached to toe board

 

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after table saw and chisel work

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Posted (edited)

continued to make my cuts planning each one out, then on to the circle.
used my circle adapter for my dremel to cut large circles cleanly
did a few test on scrap plywood i cut off, to get proper speed and technique
then onto cutting out the circle...

that is where things went south :(

the blade came loose and walked/wobbled and circle was circle NO MORE !!

 

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Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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started to work on board 2, same plan of action, just way more precarious. 

laid it out and measure twice

and yes the yellow tape on board 1 is painters tape, this was a trick used to help keep the plywood from splintering, which it is famous for.

did the same thing on board 2, but had to use the blue tape, yellow was all out :)

 

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did a rough test fit, and had to trim up the top edge a bit as well as the contour
kept it with a gap around it all as i did NOT want it to fit in tight then the wood swell and be stuck !
same clearance as the original i had on hand 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

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