BearsFan315

1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project

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here are a few of the housings blasted and the guts removed from the LED housing

 

this was a rough blast, they will be reblasted and cleaned up before going to paint

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Housings after they were rough blasted then sitting around in humidity, both are exact same housing

Left will be for LED MOD and Right will be rebuild as stock

 

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back side of the housings

 

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this is the hardware removed from the housing and the original 1929 Glass lens

 

Edited by BearsFan315
fixed picture rotation (see edit history)

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a picture of the NEW Lens kit and lens Kit Hardware, did NOT realize there were two different sizes of lens until i went to order from Gary Wallace...

 

had to go measure my existing glass (it is chipped) to figure out which one i needed for the housings. luckily both housing are the same lens, so ordered 2 kits, this is jsut a picture of 1 kit, as they are identical !!

20180929_182713.jpg

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here are some pictures of the housing back from paint, they look nice and shiny black...

 

mask tape is still on part, will remove that when i go to assemble them.

 

looking sharp and clean, ready for guts.  on the original one, i may try to clean up and get a nice reflective coating on the reflector portion, hopefully this will REFLECT the light outwards vs absorbing it. the small incandescent bulbs do not put out a lot of light, so they need all the help they can get !!

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a few more picts of the housings...

 

the LED housing looks kind of rough on the inside, but it is still a NICE SOLID piece, and not really concerned about the inside looks at this point.

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next I will start to rebuild the housings

when i am done goal is to have both of them look exactly alike on the outside so that you can NOT tell the difference by just looking at them, only when they LIGHT up :)

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sent out the wiper motor to paint with the rest of my parts and it is back ready for install along with the bracket

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ok, i ended up getting a set of 1929 dust covers from a fellow VCCA member in great shape :) 

Wheel Hub Dust Covers 01-01.jpg

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i blasted the covers and then sent off to paint with all my other parts...

all nice and black now, ready for install

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ok so looking at GROUNDING headlamps
the socket housings are ground for the bulbs
they are grounded to the reflectors via contact 7 spring clips that hold them in place against back of housing
reflector contacts the housing via contact & clamp ring
housing is grounded to the headlight cross bar via contact (threaded stud into nut)
cross bar is grounded to the fender via contact and hardware (nuts n bolts)
Fenders grounded to frame via contact & hardware (nuts & bolts)

do stanchions provide grounding via contact to fenders & then to frame ??

if you use rubber pads under the crossbars does it reduce the grounding to fenders or about the same due to paint ??

is this about right or am i missing something, as there is no ground wire to the headlamps only metal chassis ground

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Unfortunately you are correct, that is the wonderful grounding system used on our old cars. They didn’t care too much for good paint back then. Carefully remove paint from under each component bolting hole and tighten securely. You can put small amount of dielectric grease to help conductivity and prevent corrosion.

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1 hour ago, chistech said:

dielectric grease to help conductivity and prevent corrosion

I have always wondered what sort of grease this is. It turns out it aids conductivity by excluding air and corrosion. This is from

https://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-dielectric-grease.htm

 

"Dielectric grease is a non-conductive, silicone-based grease that's designed to seal out moisture and prevent corrosion on electrical connectors. It also disrupts the flow of electrical current, which makes it good for lubricating and sealing the rubber parts of electrical connectors. It's commonly used in automotive spark plug wires, recreational and utility vehicles, and electrical systems in aircraft."

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Grounding:  As a base point minimum, I have been soldering a ground wire to the bulb socket and then somewhere grounding to the base of the headlight (sometimes I solder, sometimes, I drill a hole and add a screw, and sometimes I replace a base rivet with a blind headed screw via www.restorationstuf.com).  

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thanks for the advice and info will consider them when i get to that point... especially ensuring a ground and reflective in the stock housing !!

 

was going to try the chrome paint for the reflector in the tail light housing.

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ok been working on my bumper, had to Straighten a 1929 Bumper Mounting Bracket as well as re arc the crossbars.

then 1929 Bumper Groove Painting 

ordered new end bumper hardware and found a place that sold chrome hardware, so ordered new hardware for the medallions as well.

spent some time to build the bumper this weekend....

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few shots of assembling the front bumper

 

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Edited by BearsFan315
fixed text and image rotation (see edit history)

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the the rear, was similar, had to reshape the brackets...
all new hardware for ends and medallions.

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Edited by BearsFan315
fixed picture rotation (see edit history)

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ok took some time tonight to assemble my splash apron. have to say the lil fasteners i created earlier are awesome and worked great. 

here are some shots of the assembly going together and the complete assembly.

apron is now ready to be installed on the car !!

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Picture of my custom Hardware to replace the older T-Bolts that were not in my parts.

 

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Hardware sliding into the open groove, nice fit and free to slide

 

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hardware in groove ready to be installed on Apron

 

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apron complete with Chrome Strips and Hardware installed

 

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Close up of the left and right chrome strips and fresh black paint on Apron

 

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Close up of the rear side of the hardware. had to use a flat washer as the lock washer would pop through the holes in the sheet metal when trying to tighten.

 

Edited by BearsFan315
fixed picture rotation (see edit history)

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actually installed my rear bumpers today, as well as the signal lights i made up for the car. these are NOT factory but more for safety ( too many crazy drivers out there)

used all new hardware as well, they look great, and notice the spare tire carrier is installed as well

 

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left side view showing brackets

 

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good angle view of left side bumper and signal/brake light

 

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head on view of left side bumper and signal/brake light

 

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head on view of right side bumper and signal/brake light

 

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angle view of right side bumper and signal/brake light

 

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Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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per a recommendation i painted the inside of the housing gloss white, it should help reflect the little bit of light that the bulbs put out

 

i painted both the standard housing and the conversion LED housing.

 

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Tail Lamp housing that will be restored all original

 

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This is the LED housing

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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got my stanchions from TFS and opened them up to start laying out and building my front end

 

question, are they supposed to be straight up and down (90 degrees post to base) or should they be angled ??

 

mine are angled one more so then the other. attached are a few pictures of them

 

 

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stanchions side by side for comparison, yes lean to right

 

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stanchions top down, bases are square to each other, notice difference 

 

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looking straight on, notice the angle difference

 

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stanchion 1 against the square

 

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stanchion 2 against the square

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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updated on my painting insides... got a few coats of paint on them, all cured, and removed the tape... 

 

should be ready for rebuilding, and yes i will remove paint from target areas to ensure proper ground :) at least i hope

 

here are a few of the Stock Housing Rebuild

 

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back of stock housing

 

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inside, gloss white background, silver reflector

 

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lower half for tail/parking light (original hardware)

 

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rear of stock housing angled

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Here are few of the LED conversion Housing

 

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inside, clean shiny white

 

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few angled views of inside

 

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back of LED housing, ready for original hardware to go back in

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looking at bulbs, can someone help verify

Manual says the tail lamp (lower lamp) is 3 candle power:

#63
base: Ba15s
Volt: 7.0
Amp: 0.63
Watt: 4.41
Candle Power: 3
Life: 1000 hours

then the STOP lamp (upper lamp) is a 15 candle power

#87
base: Ba15s
Volt: 6.8
Amp: 1.91
Watt: 12.98
Candle Power: 15
Life: 300 hours

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