BearsFan315

1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project

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got around to re assembling the front trunion assemblies and installing them back on the car. everything went together nicely, and put a little bit of high temp brake grease on the components that have to swivel, rotate, or move. they look great and installed nicely. used all new hardware. used new springs from The Filling Station, they are NICE and tight !!  next will be to install the bearings and then the front hubs, and wheels. at that point i will be ready to reset the brakes. i will adjust all four corners to be safe. i have the tool to set them so that is a plus.

 

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new brass nuts on freshly machined rod ends

 

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aluminum blocks installed, these are from C&P Automotive (Billy Possum) very nice work on them

 

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installed on the swivel first

 

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pin installed in leading hole

 

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plate installed

 

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screw and washer installed to hold plate

 

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aligning rod to slot and pin

 

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pin pushed through rod end

 

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another view lined up

 

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cotter pin installed

 

now ready to go back on the car, had to assemble the drivers side and passengers side

 

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installation on the car went smoothly, 2 screws hold it in place, i did a pretest fit before to ensure everything would fit nicely.

 

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trunion assembly installed 

 

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backside

 

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other view

 

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shoes and new spring installed

 

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front brake side 1 complete

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installed my front wheels back on the car last night. packed a little more grease in the bearings and on the spindle. i previously cleaned and repacked them the first go round, and car has not been driven. installed new cotter pins as well.

 

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wheel on

 

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close up

 

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pins and spindle hub

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That's quite the mechanical contraption on those backing plates! Lots of moving parts.

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working on getting the 1929 ready to get on the road. Waiting on the reflectors to get back.

 

recently did Front Brake Trunion Replacement and yesterday decided to reset all the brakes following the service news. took my time and went step by step and double checked each one along the way. got that all set and done. decided i would spin a tire or two and then step on the pedal to make sure everything worked. and they stopped, but the pedal did NOT come back up. I have brand new springs and the pedal used to come back. I remember 4+ years ago when i did this i lubed up the cross shafts as they were tight. i am assuming this is the same scenario again. i have to manually pull the pedal back up or rotate the cross shafts via pliers to return to neutral.

 

my understanding that the bushings are a metal that tend to swell over time or break down. 

 

what is the best way to lubricate the cross shafts bushings. last time i used spray lithium grease. i was going to use some penetrating oil to get things moving. also how often should i be lubricating the shafts to avoid this in the future ??

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I have no experience of these things. However, I would say avoid oil if you can. Oil is a wetting agent and will hold any dirt that comes nearby. Grease does not do that.

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1-well it seems that the brake pedal also rubs/scrapes against the upper floor plate. since it screws into set holes in the plate and the cowl there is no wiggle room, the pedals had new bushings and no real slop in them on the shaft. should i try to put in a spacer between the brake pedal and the transmission on the shaft to shift pedal left a little ?? will have to see if that would cause the clutch pedal to rub. or do i need to pull the brake pedal off the shaft and use the press to move it left a 1/4 or so ?? think the clutch pedal was pretty dead center on the plate slots. so seems like the brake pedal is off a little ?!@?

2-looks like i am going to take out the cross shafts clean them up, prime and paint them. want to make sure they are smooth operators, and this is probably the best way to do so.is there anything that i should know/ watch out for when removing them ?? looks like i will have to disconnect and remove the exhaust system in order to get the cross shaft out on the drivers side.looks like 2 bolts on bracket on drivers side, same on passenger, then 2 bolts holding center support to transmission. am i missing anything ??

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on Monday went by platers, talked with them, got the reflectors taken care of. 

Monday evening cleaned them up, packed them up and prepped for shipping.

Tuesday dropped them off with the local Postal Service to head to Oregon via 3-day Priority Mail.

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Bill at Uvira contacted me on Friday to let me know that he had received my reflectors, and that they would be top priority on his list for Monday, as they are closed Friday. so I was very happy to hear that he went out to get my reflectors and validate them and get back to me on his day off. Bill said if all goes well they should be back on their way to me by Tuesday !!

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Got an email Monday afternoon from Bill, reflectors were cleaned and plated, then coated all before lunch on Monday. they are packaged back up and waiting for FedEx to pick them up to return them to me. 

Based on tracking, and he shipped the FedEx ground, will be 5-7 business days before they get here. West Coast to East Coast.

so looks like i should have them back mid next week. as soon as i get the box i will open, validate and test fit. want to make sure i get MINE back this time ASAP :)

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well it was a very busy very productive Friday night...

 

i decide to try and tackle the rubbing pedal issue. i pulled 2 metal toe board plates that go around the steering column and pedal, and removed the screws holding in the toe board, i was able to cock the toe board enough to remove both the clutch and the brake pedal. i used my 20 ton press to tweak and straighten out the pedal arms. did a few test fits, and then trimmed the metal plates around the pedals by about 1/8" inch for insurance. you can not even tell they were trimmed unless you sit them on top of another untrimmed set. but now both pedals move freely and do NOT rub anything !! each time i did a test fit i have to bolt in the floor, bot int he plates, test and double test. then undo it all remove the pedals and press some more. a little at a time.

 

after i was happy with the fit, i removed all the metal parts i just worked with and sanded them up and prepped them for fresh primer and paint. i will do that tomorrow when i get the rest of the brake parts out so i can paint everything at once.

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got up this morning and hit the brakes right after breakfast. in order to remove the cross shafts in the 1929 i have to first remove the exhaust as is is directly under the cross shafts and there is not really enough clearance to get the cross shafts out. dropping the exhaust was pretty easy and simple. put it all on the bench for now until ready to go back in.

 

now on the cross shafts, i used my milk crate and some 2x4 to build my some cribbing under the center of the car just to be safe and ensure that it just did not drop and squash me. i removed the center hardware first, then loosened the 2 bolts on each side, then remove all but 1 bolt on each side. then pulled them out slowly while supporting the cross shaft assembly. dropped it down onto my chest and rolled out on my creeper and done. now to tear it down, clean it up, free up the bushings, and then prime, paint, and reinstall.also plan to remove all the spray lithium grease i put in a few years back when i first got the car.

 

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got everything torn down and ready for strip, primer, paint process, laid everything out on the bench and labeled the hardware and pieces so i do not forget what is what.

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now onto the fun part, freeing up the shafts !!

what i did was strip off the paint on the shafts just outside where the bushings are now. about 2-3 inches. then used brake clean with straw to blow out all the debris and grease/oil in the bushings. then gently tapped the bracket down the shafts using a block of wood and my mallet. when the bracket/bushings hit the cleaned shaft they moved easily and freely. it looks like the PO painted the shafts and then put brackets back in place, so there was paint, and crap on  the shafts. i cleaned them up with some fine sandpaper, i did this for both ends. then put the bracket/ bushing back in position. and i could easily spin the shafts by hand with no effort at all. did not take any pictures of the gunk on the shafts under the bushings, hands were messy, and was not about to touch my phone to try and get a picture, i was in the zone of cleaning !!

 

then i cleaned up the shafts from end to end, and all the attached hardware, so i can prime, paint, and reassemble.

 

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once all cleaned up i taped off the shafts areas, and bushings and then primed and painted the shafts and pieces. this will be a 2 step process to ensure i get everything painted and do NOT get paint on the bushing areas of the bushings. 

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Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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Well on sunday i continues with the painting, got that all finished and will let it cure for a bit. removed all the mask and did some clean up.

 

in between coats and flipping the cross shafts, i reinstalled the pedals, plate cover and mat. everything looks great and seems that i now have consistent clearance around the pedals !! so hopefully NO rubbing or interference. will find out when i start driving it and actually getting on the pedals. 

 

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clutch return spring and adjustment installed

 

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angled view of pedal clearance

 

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underside view of pedal clearance

 

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mat going back in

 

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on the cross shafts, i masked off the areas where the shafts will ride plus a little clearance for adjustments :) based this on how they were installed and where everything was when removed. still ahve a little touch up and clean up to do, and will take care of that in the next night or two. 

 

question is, on the bushings/ shaft areas of contact  should i use:

1-a few drops of general purpose oil

2-a thin coat of general bearing grease

3-other

 

 

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Oil will attract dirt and hold it there. It will become sticky with dirt. Grease doesn't wet dust anywhere near as much so will remain relatively dust free in comparison.

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ok so started to put the linkage assembly back in the car.  on the bench everything moves freely and easily by hand. little or no effort required to spin a shaft or slide a shaft or any component on it. bearing surfaces were greased with a syn grease. 

 

mounting in the car with everything loose things move freely, but not a freely as they did on bench. if i tighten the drivers side at all the shafts are hard to turn at all by hand, if i only tighten the passenger side i can freely move either shaft. not sure what it could be ?? bracket or something out of whack ??

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Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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Is there a twist in the shafts?  Maybe you need to shim one of the mounts to get things working.  It stands to reason that if you bolt things tight and they stop moving, you are putting a bend or twist into the shafts.

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12 hours ago, Taylormade said:

Is there a twist in the shafts?  Maybe you need to shim one of the mounts to get things working.  It stands to reason that if you bolt things tight and they stop moving, you are putting a bend or twist into the shafts.

does not look like it, a friend state that maybe the floating bushings are not floating and lining up. maybe one of them is stuck. so i may try to figure out which one/ ones and then work them a bit to get some grease in it and see if that solves the issue. i am hoping that is the culprit. also the mounting holes are over sized and the center mount is slotted to allow for movement and adjustment. figure the frame will flex some as driving and the shafts have to adjust and move with the frame. hopefully a littler persuasion and talking to will fix the issue. if not out it will come and back on the bench for a real talking to !!  

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well first things first...  i got a package in from FedEx today, and it was from Uvira. Opened it up to find MY 1929 Reflectors, well the set i just sent him last week. they look great !! i validated they are mine, and when i get time i will open them up and start my headlamp assembly.

 

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task for the night was to try a few suggestion i received to get the brake shafts moving freely when tightened down. Noting that with all the hardware installed loosely, just enough to hold the assembly up in the frame, the shafts turned freely very little resistance at all.

 

first made sure the bushings were moving and rotating, just in case a bracket was crooked or off. made a small tool out of aluminum, basically a 1" wide flat piece maybe about 1/16" or so thick and rolled the 1" wide part over a socket and beat it with a mallet to make it lay flat against the bushing face. then used the mallet to tap the flat end of the aluminum bar to see if the bushings move, they all moved pretty easily when not under any stress or tension while installed. this had no effect on the spinning of the shafts. once i tightened the front bolt on the drivers side i could NOT turn the front shaft by hand and the rear shaft was a lot harder to turn.

 

second tightened everything down and then used my mallet to see if tapping the brackets would assist in easing things up, maybe brackets were not straight, etc... no such luck. tried both sides, few options, no go.

 

third thought about shims as mentioned above. with hardware loose, i pressed the drivers side bracket up against the frame and then used my feeler gauge to see if there was any gap between the bracket and the frame rail and if so how much. on the drivers side the back bolt hole was flush, no clearance, the front had about a .045" gap. so i got out my collection of 5/16 washers and measured them all. had a good range from .040" up to .075" thick. tried a .040" worked good, so tried a .050" and worked great. tried a .060" and back to binding again. so no shim in rear and a .050" shim on the front for the drivers side. did the same for the passenger, and ended up only needing .025" shim. so put in a .065" in the front and a .040" in the rear. and then tightened everything down. and wow they all move freely, not 100% like on the bench but about 90% !!! i can easily and freely turn either shaft with one hand by just grabbing the shaft and turning it. 

 

installed the springs to do a return test and wow the snap back into position quickly and nicely. i will redo the complete brake setting procedure and then see what happens, that is on the agenda for tomorrow. then i can reinstall the exhaust system and secure that once again. 

 

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drivers side with springs installed

 

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passengers side

 

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center support

 

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look closely you can see the .040" washer between bracket on right and frame rail on left.

 

 

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